1963 Cummins Generator - what oil?

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martymart9

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At work we have a diesel Cummins that turns a 125kW GE generator for emergency power at a TV transmitter. Nobody has the slightest clue about maintaining the beast. No manuals/documentation either.

The engine is a 1963 Cummins HRS-6-IP, 743cid, supercharged. ~1000hrs and runs great.
It has heated circulation pump that runs 24/7.

Anybody know what weight and type of oil this thing takes?
I'm thinking of getting Delo 100 30wt for it, but not sure if thats the best.

Good cold starting is also very important (New England...), so maybe a 15w40 is best?
Also, cooling system needs a flush, what are your thoughts on DCAs/SCAs?
 
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Think I'd be asking Cummins on that one, believe that SAE 30 would be fine, due to the fact that the oil is heated & circulated 24/7-I'd ask them on the coolant as well-modern coolant is MUCH better than what they had in the '60s, they'll have the test strips & recommendation on what to use.
 
Thanks, I'll try calling them. I did try the QuickServe site they had but that was useless, doesn't even tell me the oil filter to use.

Also, should have been more clear: the heated circulation pump is for the coolant. (Doubt that has anything to do with oil choice.)
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
, believe that SAE 30 would be fine,


But I wouldn't use Delo 100, it's designed for Detroit Diesel 2 strokes and has a low ash/low zinc formulation. I'd use Delo 400 30 or 40 or else Delo 400 15W40 or equivalent assuming the thing is always kept warm.

Charlie
 
I'm going to completely show my ignorance, but here it goes:
Is this engine a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke? I was leaning toward 2-stroke because of the supercharger.
 
To my knowledge, Detroit Diesel is the only large diesel engine manufacturer to ever produce 2-stroke engines. I wonder if you might be calling the turbocharger a supercharger. If it's mounted on the exhaust manifold, it's a turbo. I'd run a quality 15w-40 engine oil. If you're going to flush the cooling system, I would say use the Fleetguard Restore. They have two types, one for removing oil, etc. from a cooling system and another that removes scale and corrosion build-up. I've used Restore on some equipment that was overheating from the radiator being plugged internally and it cleaned it right out. Just follow directions on the bottle. I would also suggest running Fleetguard Compleat coolant after you flush it. It already has all the DCA mixed in it that you'll need. It is supposed to be a lifetime coolant. You'll still need to test the DCA from time to time and then you can get pint sized bottles of DCA to replenish the additive.
 
Definitely a supercharger. Roots-style. Exhaust is plumbed directly from the exhaust manifold to the building exterior, no snail in the mix.

The restore stuff sounds like just what I need. It appear that the system is full of straight tap water...
 
Originally Posted By: martymart9
I'm going to completely show my ignorance, but here it goes:
Is this engine a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke? I was leaning toward 2-stroke because of the supercharger.
The engine is a 4 stroke. Pretty rare in diesel land these days.

My Pete has a 1962 Cummins NT280. Although mine has a turbo these 2 engines are very simmiliar internally. 15w40 in your favorite flavor will do a great job in it.

Does it have a canister style oil filter on the side with the injectors? Mounted horozontoly? Wix 51900 or 51954 should be the filter#. Originally it used a "bag" oil filter. You don't want to go with that thing!

Sump capacity should be about 8 gallons but don't hold me to that.

Keeping proper coolant with SCA's in it is very important to prevent liner pitting. Does it have a Perry water filter?

http://drakesupply.com/about_us.html

The guys on the Antique truck forums are having a hard time finding pistons and liners for the 743 cuin engines these days.

Get some close up pics of this thing and I'll help you I.D. things
 
Designed to run @ 1800 rpm. We can shim up the governor springs till it runs about 2400 then change the fuel button and have it put out about 400 hp and 1000 ftlbs while shooting 2 ft tall flames out the pipe.
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Sounds like 15w40 is the winner.

Chris142:
Yes, there's an oil canister on the injector side, mounted horizontally. Not a spin-on, its held on with two bolts. From Wix's website, I've gathered that there's either a cartrigde or a bag/sock in there.

No, I haven't spotted any coolant filters. Although I'm not sure what it'd look like, your average spin-on or another canister?

I'm guessing there's a fuel filter in the mix somewhere too, I'll have to track that down as well.

Hotrodding it to 2400rpms: Sounds awesome, wish it were mine and I'd do it. But not sure the generator regulator would like that...80Hz power?
 
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Ya the oil filter is in the canister and has an oring for a seal. This is the bag replacement. There are a couple of different O-rings but it's probly the same as mine.

Part Number: 51900
UPC Number: 765809142749
Principal Application: Cummins Bag Conversion
All Applications
Style: Cartridge Lube Metal Canister Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 12.031
Outer Diameter: 5.000
Inner Diameter: 0.688
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8 - 9
Nominal Micron Rating: 25

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
15751 8 6.000 5.400 0.062
15207 8 6.025 5.475 0.275 15443 8 6.033 5.500 0.031
15083 8 5.937 5.562 0.125

The fuel filter might be the old style canister or a spin on. I'd swap it over to a spin on if it were mine.

My water filter was bolted on the passenger side of the engine and had smaller hoses going to it. You dont need it if you use a coolant with the sca's or add them.
 
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Cummins reciently removed a bunch of old engines from their site. Up till about a year ago I could look up the specs on mine but now they are gone.

You may want to take the serial # to a truck parts place or write Cummins directly to get info on it. The pistons #'s and such should be stamped on that metal tag on the front in front of the injection pump but all those numbers have been superceded.

If it ever needs work you will need to find an older mechanic. This engine is very different than what the currant mechanics are used to seeing.

Infact if it needs work you may end up repowering it with a newer model engine since parts are so hard to find. But save that blower! Those are impossible to find. Somebody on the old truck forums will buy it from you.
 
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