10w60 vs 20w50 oil consumption

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: B320i
Good points. Although, I assume in addition to 20w50, the manual allows the use of thinner oils, too?


IIRC, the manual specifies a) 10W30;b) 15W40 and c) 20W50.

If i were OP, I would switch 20W50 brands, after which 10W60 or xxW70 as temporary band aid until such time when replacing valve seals.

 

[FCD]

The owner's manual is the best place to source what oil a car needs, it clearly specs 20w50/20w40 so that is what I'll use! It only says to use 10w40 in very cold climates which is not my case, all the engine builders I know that specialize in my engine also recommend to use 20w50 or a HD 15w40, and so far the "molasses" has given me pretty good results, even after I change the valve seals all I'm gonna do is maybe try out Valvoline's VR1 20/50 as it seems to be all the rage in the European classic Ford scene

 

[Popsy]

I'd try Total Quartz 10W50 if I were you. Good results in older car like Peugeot J7 from 1977 when temps are negative in the morning.

 

[Olas]

If you're thinking thicker oils help to slow the rate of consumption then look at importing some 25w70 from Oz.

 

[Nick1994]

Ok well clearly you don't understand how oil weights work.

If a 20w40 is ok for your climate but a 10w40 isn't, then obviously that owners manual is out of date and is clueless.

It's the same oil dude, just easier to start at colder temperatures. Same oil when hot

 

[FCD]

I do know how oil weights / viscosity ratings work, but anyway what do you suggest i run my engine on if i should'nt be running "molasses" like i'm running now

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Ok well clearly you don't understand how oil weights work.

If a 20w40 is ok for your climate but a 10w40 isn't, then obviously that owners manual is out of date and is clueless.

It's the same oil dude, just easier to start at colder temperatures. Same oil when hot


Not the same oil when hot.
10W40 will have more VIIs, lower basestock viscosity and higher volatility.

If the manual was written before 2013, the HTHS minimum for 10W30 was 2.9, same as a 30...there were issues with the 10W40 grade for a long long time.

"archaic" and "clueless" don't strengthen your argument any more than your "molasses".

 

[Red91]

Hey Shannow, a bit off topic, but nevertheless, didn't you start a thread a few months back about the different oil grade recommendations for GM's 2.0 4 cylinder engine? IIRC, the same engine that was recommended synthetic 5W-30 in the U.S., was recommended everything from the same to 20W-50 in Oz, along with a multitude of mono grade recommendations. Makes me ponder running my current QSUD 5W-30, then running QSAD 10W-40, then Delo 400 SAE 30. Then, maybe back to QSUD, but in 5W-20. I just think it's interesting how different countries spec different oils for the same engine.

 

[Shannow]

Not sure...the thread I posted a whole bunch of Oz manuals, not sure if the GM 2.0 was in it.

But on the weekend will chase it up, as that engine (1.8) was in a Nissan Pulsar in Oz, and I've got a manual kicking around.

the 2.0 I had in my J Car specced 20W50 in Oz IIRC, but I ran SAE 30 one summer, and 25W70 one winter (down to -7C), just to demonstrate to BITOGers that things can run on a wide range without issue...25W70 in winter hit my economy pretty hard, way outside of noise...but that thing couldn't pull a greased knitting needle out of an echidna's bum.

 

[Red91]

What is your preferred oil grade? I typically like 5W-30 and 10W-40 for a multitude of engines, the 40 more for older, HM engines.

 

[Shannow]

If I could get 10W30 Synthetic A3/B4, that's all I'd use.

closest I can get is Synthetic 5W30 A3/B4 (Edge, Magnatec stop start), so I've got a shed full of that grade.

My Nissan manual specs 15W40, I ran 0W40 for a bit, then 5W40 synthetics for ages, but am now on the above Edge. Caprice is specced at 20W50, 15W40 in snow, and it's a 10W30 blend A3/B4 (Magnatec Stop Start, the old version) ATM.

 

[Red91]

Ok, so correct me if I'm wrong, but the 10W-30 A3/B4 you mention would be a heavy 30, correct?

 

[Shannow]

Yep, a straight 30 has an HTHS of 3.4+, while an ILSAC 30 has a minimum of 2.9, where they target 2.9-3.1. A3/B4 30s have to meet 3.5min, which is closer to what "30" should mean.

edit...the edge is 3.6 HTHS, while the 5W40 synthetics are around 3.8...which is why I go for the 30s, not much to be gained bar volatility and lower flash point in the 5W40s...15W40s are well over 4 HTHS (4.3, 4.4), and I don't think I need that in either engine.

 

[Red91]

So, would our Rotella T5 10W-30 be similar to that? Or perhaps the old Defy? More or less, a heavy, non ILSAC 30 weight, right?

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Ok well clearly you don't understand how oil weights work.

If a 20w40 is ok for your climate but a 10w40 isn't, then obviously that owners manual is out of date and is clueless.

It's the same oil dude, just easier to start at colder temperatures. Same oil when hot


Not the same oil when hot.
10W40 will have more VIIs, lower basestock viscosity and higher volatility.

If the manual was written before 2013, the HTHS minimum for 10W30 was 2.9, same as a 30...there were issues with the 10W40 grade for a long long time.

"archaic" and "clueless" don't strengthen your argument any more than your "molasses".
Does sarcasm not exist in Australia or is everybody just serious all the time?

In case you didn't pick up on it, my use of archaic and molasses was sarcasm.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
So then what's the whole purpose of this forum if all we're supposed to do is look in archaic owner's manuals for oil recommendations and not look for what might be better as an oil choice?

I mean it was once thought that the Earth was flat, then we found out it wasn't!


I can tell you that the purpose of this forum is not to diddle around with oil selection, when you already have an oil that exceeds expectations in use.

 

[alcyon]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Ok well clearly you don't understand how oil weights work.

If a 20w40 is ok for your climate but a 10w40 isn't, then obviously that owners manual is out of date and is clueless.

It's the same oil dude, just easier to start at colder temperatures. Same oil when hot


Not the same oil when hot.
10W40 will have more VIIs, lower basestock viscosity and higher volatility.


But isn't 20W40 and 20W-50 usually a lower basetock quality ?

 

[FCD]

Who even uses 20w40? I've hardly seen it online and i've never seen it on the shelves over here

 

[Popsy]

Originally Posted By: alcyon
But isn't 20W40 and 20W-50 usually a lower basetock quality ?

That.
Most 15Wxx and 20Wxx oils here are [censored] (most of the 10Wxx oils too), if you want good quality you have to pay for more exotic products like Motul 300V.
A 20W50 oil is maybe more shear stable than a 10W50 or a 15W50, but I still prefer to use an oil with a "known" add pack, not something like Shell or Total 20W50, maybe these formula were good in the past, but I suspect these products have a high margin profit

Don't know about Valvoline VR-1.

But there is still no definitive answer to the OP's question, will a 10W60 oil shear to a 50 grade or less and leak as much as a 20W50 (which will shear less because of thicker base stock?)?

 

[FCD]

Well my question initially which one would make the engine burn less oil but apparently it doesn't affect oil consumption much if it's the valve seals that are old