10W30 Synthetic for B&S Engine ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: JerryBob
I read somewhere, and can vouch for from personal experience, that lawnmowers running syn tend to use oil. Make sure you check your oil every couple of weeks, or you'll find yourself dry like I did.

I read the exact opposite. That if you're going to use multi-viscosity oil in a mower/riding mower engine, use synthetic as conventional mv oil will burn. I wish I could quote the source, I believe it was in a Briggs riding mower engine manual.
 
I changed the oil in my cast off 5.5Hp Honda with M1 0W-40 in Sept '11, it's still full... It'll probably get 15W-40 HDEO next go round but won't likely be before next spring...
 
Air cooled engines get hot in the 100 degree heat we have down here.

I've been running 10w40 Maxlife and 10w40 Mobil 1 High Mileage in my Toro, with Briggs engine, and a 40 year old walk behind edger with a Briggs engine.

I have also run intervals of Rotella T6 5w40, and the 15w40 flavor.
That being said, the old edger really does better with the High Mileage oils. Since that only takes 1 pint, and my 4 year old Mower only takes 1 pint, they both get whatever quart I buy when I do the change at the end of every season.

I really recommend a synthetic 40 weight for Air Cooled engines. I really like how mine perform compared to the 30 weights once they get warmed up and running.

Also, I have tried 50 weight in my Briggs. I mowed the yard once with it, and I could tell the engine lost some power due to its thickness.

I have also done the Synthetic 30 weight when I first got it.
The only difference is that it does sound different on the 40 weights. No loss of power between the two.
Call me paranoid, strange, or whatever suits your purpose.
I still like the 40 weight flavor in my Air Cooled engines.
 
I'm about to change he oil in my sons snowblower. I plan on using 10/30 wt whatevers on sale oil. Where we live it can be used 20 times a winter, or not even once a winter. So it sits all year. I can't see a reason why anyone would use a synthetic oil. What for? Do you plan on keeping it for 50 years?. Like mowers, most have the wheels fall off, or the body rust apart before the motor actually wears out.It's been proven here over and over that alot of ope happily run for years with the factory fill. The motor doesn't care what type of oil is in it, only that SOME type is in it.,,
 
Well, here's how I look at it. There's no real argument that syn oil will protect better than dino, assuming cost is no issue. While syn in a non-filtered engine doesn't extend the OCI, it will protect better. The key word is "better". How much better than adequate do you want and how much are you willing to pay for? You have to answer that yourself. Let's assume you want the best protection. Then you want syn oil in your OPE, and since syn oils aren't affected by depletion of VII's, then you should pick the oil with the low temp rating you're most likely to see. In other words, a snow blower might be better off with 0W30, and lawn mower would probably like 10W30 or 15W40 better. If you want to use 5W40 in a lawnmower, then there's no real reason not to. Even when starting in hot weather, you'll get better cold lubrication. I'm a believer that you won't live long enough to see the benefits of 5W40 over 15W40, in any weather, when wear and engine longevity are your goals.
The long and short of it is, you can use any of these, and many other oils, and be just fine.
Whoever the first person was to say that small engines can run on almost anything was absolutely right, and I've said it myself many times. These things are just not all that picky. It seems to me that engines run with good syn oil and changed at proper intervals, will last longer than if they had been fed dino oils, but I often wonder if it's only because the guys who care enough to use syn, are also keeping up on their maintenance much more than guys (on average) who use dino oil and just don't care enough to do all the proper maintenance. I have many neighbors who just mow, blow, trim and cut and almost never do any maintenance to their OPE, and use the cheapest oil they can find, and use it for a loooong time.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JerryBob
I read somewhere, and can vouch for from personal experience, that lawnmowers running syn tend to use oil. Make sure you check your oil every couple of weeks, or you'll find yourself dry like I did.


I've noticed the opposite. 10W30 Syn doesn't drop at all on the dipstick all season, but conventional does.
 
I was under the impression that in air cooled OPE that 10W 30 would not shear as much as a 5W 30 ? ... On a similar note - why doesn't my B&S owners manual list anything with 5W 40 , 15W 40 ? My manual only covers 30 weight or 5W 30 yet here in ATL it can get hot here in July - perhaps not Dallas or Phoenix hot but still pushing 100 F at times which makes me wonder if 30 can handle it ?
 
Originally Posted By: [email protected]
My 2005 or so Yard Machines riding mower with the 13.5hp B&S motor, specifically recommends 5w30 OR 10w30 synthetic in the manual.

2i75qht.jpg


Bump.
 
Uhh, why should they? Why not 20W-50? Why not 0W-20? What's your point?

And what specifically makes you "wonder if 30 can handle it"?

Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
On a similar note - why doesn't my B&S owners manual list anything with 5W 40 , 15W 40 ? My manual only covers 30 weight or 5W 30 yet here in ATL it can get hot here in July - perhaps not Dallas or Phoenix hot but still pushing 100 F at times which makes me wonder if 30 can handle it ?
 
Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
I'm about to change he oil in my sons snowblower. I plan on using 10/30 wt whatevers on sale oil. Where we live it can be used 20 times a winter, or not even once a winter. So it sits all year. I can't see a reason why anyone would use a synthetic oil. What for? Do you plan on keeping it for 50 years?. Like mowers, most have the wheels fall off, or the body rust apart before the motor actually wears out.It's been proven here over and over that alot of ope happily run for years with the factory fill. The motor doesn't care what type of oil is in it, only that SOME type is in it.,,


The Snapper I regularly use is coming up on 30 years old(engine is only nine), so yes in fact I do plan on using it for another 20 years...
 
Why would you use 10W-30 in a snowthrower?

Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
I'm about to change he oil in my sons snowblower. I plan on using 10/30 wt whatevers on sale oil. Where we live it can be used 20 times a winter, or not even once a winter. So it sits all year. I can't see a reason why anyone would use a synthetic oil. What for? Do you plan on keeping it for 50 years?. Like mowers, most have the wheels fall off, or the body rust apart before the motor actually wears out.It's been proven here over and over that alot of ope happily run for years with the factory fill. The motor doesn't care what type of oil is in it, only that SOME type is in it.,,
 
As already mentioned, OPE's do not really care what they are being filled with, as long as the the oil level is kept within range with regulad OCI's. I have finally settled on Rotella T6 5w-40 for all of my OPE's. 10w-30 dino would be fine in a snowblower if kept in a garage. One would experience harder starting with a 10w-30 dino in a blower when it is subzero. I have used 5w-30 dino in a blower at -10's+ and the oil is pretty stiff compared to a syn oil.
 
I run syn 0w20 in the snowblower. syn in the genny's to. my 3.75kw Coleman powered by ohh195 5.5hp tecumseh, i have. used a variety. of syn oil. i run dino oil ussualy 5w20 in everything else. now days. be using mc5w20 in the neighbors mower for ten years. it has been used and abused and still runs like a champ. oil is oil in ope's but i will admit syns do provide better. cold weather performance . syn is a wash in short ope oci's.

Kenny
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
I've noticed the opposite. 10W30 Syn doesn't drop at all on the dipstick all season, but conventional does.


My experience as well.
 
Originally Posted By: bchannell
Well, here's how I look at it. There's no real argument that syn oil will protect better than dino, assuming cost is no issue. While syn in a non-filtered engine doesn't extend the OCI, it will protect better. The key word is "better". How much better than adequate do you want and how much are you willing to pay for? You have to answer that yourself. Let's assume you want the best protection. Then you want syn oil in your OPE, and since syn oils aren't affected by depletion of VII's, then you should pick the oil with the low temp rating you're most likely to see. In other words, a snow blower might be better off with 0W30, and lawn mower would probably like 10W30 or 15W40 better. If you want to use 5W40 in a lawnmower, then there's no real reason not to. Even when starting in hot weather, you'll get better cold lubrication. I'm a believer that you won't live long enough to see the benefits of 5W40 over 15W40, in any weather, when wear and engine longevity are your goals.
The long and short of it is, you can use any of these, and many other oils, and be just fine.
Whoever the first person was to say that small engines can run on almost anything was absolutely right, and I've said it myself many times. These things are just not all that picky. It seems to me that engines run with good syn oil and changed at proper intervals, will last longer than if they had been fed dino oils, but I often wonder if it's only because the guys who care enough to use syn, are also keeping up on their maintenance much more than guys (on average) who use dino oil and just don't care enough to do all the proper maintenance. I have many neighbors who just mow, blow, trim and cut and almost never do any maintenance to their OPE, and use the cheapest oil they can find, and use it for a loooong time.


Synthetic oil is better? Interesting.
I own 14 160cc 5.5hp air compressors and 7 generators that vary from 3500-6500 watts.
A few of those compressors have better than 10000 hours on them. In my experience fuel dilution can be a problem. The fuel takes quite some time to evaporate out of the crankcase. So I change the oil in all my machines at 100 hours or 2 weeks in the summer and 2 weeks on the daily run stuff in the winter.
So there is absolutely no point buying a synthetic. I can't extend the run times on it because of fuel dilution so sure syn might be "better" it paying extra for it makes no sense.
Conventional rotella in the summer and the cheapest 5w-30 I can find,usually the 5 gallon supertech pails in winter.
I've got decades of experience using these machines to make a living. If there was any benefit to running a synthetic and by benefit I mean saving money in maintenance costs then I guarantee I'd be using it but thus far I've seen none.
Oh and I use mos2 every second oil change in everything. It amazing how much easier the compressors are to pull start when its -35 with an mos2 treated engine.
But please,if you can show me how synthetic is somehow better then please show me. Any of your small motors got 10000 hours on them? Without a rebuild?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Why would you use 10W-30 in a snowthrower?

Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
I'm about to change he oil in my sons snowblower. I plan on using 10/30 wt whatevers on sale oil. Where we live it can be used 20 times a winter, or not even once a winter. So it sits all year. I can't see a reason why anyone would use a synthetic oil. What for? Do you plan on keeping it for 50 years?. Like mowers, most have the wheels fall off, or the body rust apart before the motor actually wears out.It's been proven here over and over that alot of ope happily run for years with the factory fill. The motor doesn't care what type of oil is in it, only that SOME type is in it.,,
I thought I explained that? Any way my local supermarket has it for $2.49 a qt.,,
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: bchannell
Well, here's how I look at it. There's no real argument that syn oil will protect better than dino, assuming cost is no issue. While syn in a non-filtered engine doesn't extend the OCI, it will protect better. The key word is "better". How much better than adequate do you want and how much are you willing to pay for? You have to answer that yourself. Let's assume you want the best protection. Then you want syn oil in your OPE, and since syn oils aren't affected by depletion of VII's, then you should pick the oil with the low temp rating you're most likely to see. In other words, a snow blower might be better off with 0W30, and lawn mower would probably like 10W30 or 15W40 better. If you want to use 5W40 in a lawnmower, then there's no real reason not to. Even when starting in hot weather, you'll get better cold lubrication. I'm a believer that you won't live long enough to see the benefits of 5W40 over 15W40, in any weather, when wear and engine longevity are your goals.
The long and short of it is, you can use any of these, and many other oils, and be just fine.
Whoever the first person was to say that small engines can run on almost anything was absolutely right, and I've said it myself many times. These things are just not all that picky. It seems to me that engines run with good syn oil and changed at proper intervals, will last longer than if they had been fed dino oils, but I often wonder if it's only because the guys who care enough to use syn, are also keeping up on their maintenance much more than guys (on average) who use dino oil and just don't care enough to do all the proper maintenance. I have many neighbors who just mow, blow, trim and cut and almost never do any maintenance to their OPE, and use the cheapest oil they can find, and use it for a loooong time.


Synthetic oil is better? Interesting.
I own 14 160cc 5.5hp air compressors and 7 generators that vary from 3500-6500 watts.
A few of those compressors have better than 10000 hours on them. In my experience fuel dilution can be a problem. The fuel takes quite some time to evaporate out of the crankcase. So I change the oil in all my machines at 100 hours or 2 weeks in the summer and 2 weeks on the daily run stuff in the winter.
So there is absolutely no point buying a synthetic. I can't extend the run times on it because of fuel dilution so sure syn might be "better" it paying extra for it makes no sense.
Conventional rotella in the summer and the cheapest 5w-30 I can find,usually the 5 gallon supertech pails in winter.
I've got decades of experience using these machines to make a living. If there was any benefit to running a synthetic and by benefit I mean saving money in maintenance costs then I guarantee I'd be using it but thus far I've seen none.
Oh and I use mos2 every second oil change in everything. It amazing how much easier the compressors are to pull start when its -35 with an mos2 treated engine.
But please,if you can show me how synthetic is somehow better then please show me. Any of your small motors got 10000 hours on them? Without a rebuild?


You have to remember I said "assuming cost is no issue", but I bow to your "decades of experience".
 
With the oil temps I've measured in my OPE, fuel dilution is no doubt a non issue, fuel is not going to hang around at over 200F(On a 90*+ day, areas around the valves in a B&S fleathead that are exposed to oil, are close to 275*)... I changed one of mine last year the other two were changed in '11...
 
Considering that most B&S engines will probably run for 30 years on API SA oil, this business of exactly what synthetic and grade to run in them is probably more absurd than medieval monks debating angels on pinheads.

That said, I'd just run 10w-30 Supertech synthetic and call it a day. It's better than most conventional oils, and cheaper than most synthetics.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom