Run 5W40 year round.
10w30 in summer.
- Thread starter Rglossip
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My top two picks:
1- Run 10W-30 year-round, any base or brand.
2- Run 15W-40 year-round, any base or brand.
If you are in Kansas, as your profile suggests, it would not make a [censored] difference between these two.
1- Run 10W-30 year-round, any base or brand.
2- Run 15W-40 year-round, any base or brand.
If you are in Kansas, as your profile suggests, it would not make a [censored] difference between these two.
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
If you use it in winter, then 10W30. If you only use it in warm weather (at least 32F & above), then 15W40 or straight 30. In my experience 5W40 (esp. T6) seems to shear faster than any of the others mentioned, that's likely why Kubota won't recommend it.
Agreed - but he said he had a factory blockheater installed, and is in Kansas.
If you use it in winter, then 10W30. If you only use it in warm weather (at least 32F & above), then 15W40 or straight 30. In my experience 5W40 (esp. T6) seems to shear faster than any of the others mentioned, that's likely why Kubota won't recommend it.
Agreed - but he said he had a factory blockheater installed, and is in Kansas.
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
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Originally Posted by bullwinkle
If you use it in winter, then 10W30. If you only use it in warm weather (at least 32F & above), then 15W40 or straight 30. In my experience 5W40 (esp. T6) seems to shear faster than any of the others mentioned, that's likely why Kubota won't recommend it.
If you use it in winter, then 10W30. If you only use it in warm weather (at least 32F & above), then 15W40 or straight 30. In my experience 5W40 (esp. T6) seems to shear faster than any of the others mentioned, that's likely why Kubota won't recommend it.
Originally Posted by Rglossip
The straight 30 weights are more durable?
YES. Because they are NOT a multi-grade, they are a 30 grade oil with no viscosity additives (VII's) that can break down, causing shearing and possible deposits. The downside is that a straight weight oil will NOT work very well if it gets cold. A 15w40 has less VII's than a 5w40. And a 10w30 usually has about the same amount or even slightly less VII than that 15w40.
In the really old days, people used to drain the oil and take it inside overnight, then pour it back in at next use. If they didn't, the engine would not start, or it would start and run with no oil flow for minutes at a time. That is why we have multigrades now ...
The straight 30 weights are more durable?
YES. Because they are NOT a multi-grade, they are a 30 grade oil with no viscosity additives (VII's) that can break down, causing shearing and possible deposits. The downside is that a straight weight oil will NOT work very well if it gets cold. A 15w40 has less VII's than a 5w40. And a 10w30 usually has about the same amount or even slightly less VII than that 15w40.
In the really old days, people used to drain the oil and take it inside overnight, then pour it back in at next use. If they didn't, the engine would not start, or it would start and run with no oil flow for minutes at a time. That is why we have multigrades now ...
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Originally Posted by Wheel
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Well the viscosity would change at 100°C - did you burn your fingers? 212°F....you just rubbed the room temp oil between your non-calibrated fingers - what does that do?
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Well the viscosity would change at 100°C - did you burn your fingers? 212°F....you just rubbed the room temp oil between your non-calibrated fingers - what does that do?
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Well the viscosity would change at 100°C - did you burn your fingers? 212°F....you just rubbed the room temp oil between your non-calibrated fingers - what does that do?
I'd say rubbing it between non-calibrated fingers would do nothing but make your fingers oily.
What I did do was observe the time it took a known quantity to flow thru a small orifice and compared that time to the same quantity of new oil from the same lot.
Are there better tests? yep. Is there a better test at home ?
Originally Posted by Wheel
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Well the viscosity would change at 100°C - did you burn your fingers? 212°F....you just rubbed the room temp oil between your non-calibrated fingers - what does that do?
I'd say rubbing it between non-calibrated fingers would do nothing but make your fingers oily.
What I did do was observe the time it took a known quantity to flow thru a small orifice and compared that time to the same quantity of new oil from the same lot.
Are there better tests? yep. Is there a better test at home ?
I'm confused as to why you even need to run a test at home, fingers, orifices or otherwise.
Originally Posted by Wheel
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
Originally Posted by tundraotto
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Well the viscosity would change at 100°C - did you burn your fingers? 212°F....you just rubbed the room temp oil between your non-calibrated fingers - what does that do?
I'd say rubbing it between non-calibrated fingers would do nothing but make your fingers oily.
What I did do was observe the time it took a known quantity to flow thru a small orifice and compared that time to the same quantity of new oil from the same lot.
Are there better tests? yep. Is there a better test at home ?
Since you now agree that the non-calibrated finger test is totally useless. Did you do your orifice test at 100°C/212°F temperature? Because that's were the lighter weight oil shears and thins quicker than the heavier oil. I don't get your spin on this at all. You don't have to test this at home at all - its proven fact, and all manufacturers published data and independent UOA's prove it.
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
Originally Posted by tundraotto
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Well the viscosity would change at 100°C - did you burn your fingers? 212°F....you just rubbed the room temp oil between your non-calibrated fingers - what does that do?
I'd say rubbing it between non-calibrated fingers would do nothing but make your fingers oily.
What I did do was observe the time it took a known quantity to flow thru a small orifice and compared that time to the same quantity of new oil from the same lot.
Are there better tests? yep. Is there a better test at home ?
Since you now agree that the non-calibrated finger test is totally useless. Did you do your orifice test at 100°C/212°F temperature? Because that's were the lighter weight oil shears and thins quicker than the heavier oil. I don't get your spin on this at all. You don't have to test this at home at all - its proven fact, and all manufacturers published data and independent UOA's prove it.
When did I say I did any testing with my fingers at all ? I was looking for a difference between what went into the tractor and what came out.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Wheel
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Here. No UOA, just your OPINION. Not FACT - opinion. Like a Russian government news brief - falsehoods, void of facts.
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Wheel
I've been running 10w30 in my Bolens/Iseki diesel this summer. (and will be using it this winter) It isn't using any oil and the viscosity does not appear to have increased. I'm coming up on 800 hours on the clock, I'm sticking with that grade for the tractor.
What do you mean by "viscosity does not appear to have increased"....did you do a UOA or just feel it with your knowing fingers?
Just that, no UOA was done, hence my qualifier, 'does not appear'. I don't have calibrated fingers - yet.
Here. No UOA, just your OPINION. Not FACT - opinion. Like a Russian government news brief - falsehoods, void of facts.
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