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0w40 for my whole fleet?
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I asked a Mobil tech last week if I could mix AFE 0W20 with AFE 0W30 to get rid of a few stray quarts I have of their AFE 0W20 laying around. He told me they wouldn't back the product if I had a problem and wouldn't know what the end mix would be. The tech guy said it would be OK to mix them to top up toward the end of an OCI, but not to use if for a full OCI. I found that interesting, and it goes along with what Shannow and a few others have been saying for quite some time. Another member had a similar exchange with Mobil, and was told exactly the same thing. I also asked about using 0W40 for a mix oil, with AFE 0W20, and his reply was exactly the same.
I asked only because of all the discussions lately about mixing different viscosity to get a home brew.
They didn't test the mix therefore they don't know how it performs and don't back it. That's I understand, a big company like Mobil would not say anything without data to back it.
My reason for mixing is I like certain HTHS that is hard to find over the shelf. Like xW30 with HTHS of 3.3-3.4 for both S2000 and E430.
Pennzoil took the same stance, almost word for word. My feeling is exactly what you said, they haven't tested it and they're basing their stance on that. If you think about it, they'd have a ton of testing, just based on how many combinations we can come up with within a brand. For me it's very easy not to mix, I'll find a use for the stray quarts or return them.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I asked a Mobil tech last week if I could mix AFE 0W20 with AFE 0W30 to get rid of a few stray quarts I have of their AFE 0W20 laying around. He told me they wouldn't back the product if I had a problem and wouldn't know what the end mix would be. The tech guy said it would be OK to mix them to top up toward the end of an OCI, but not to use if for a full OCI. I found that interesting, and it goes along with what Shannow and a few others have been saying for quite some time. Another member had a similar exchange with Mobil, and was told exactly the same thing. I also asked about using 0W40 for a mix oil, with AFE 0W20, and his reply was exactly the same.
I asked only because of all the discussions lately about mixing different viscosity to get a home brew.
They didn't test the mix therefore they don't know how it performs and don't back it. That's I understand, a big company like Mobil would not say anything without data to back it.
My reason for mixing is I like certain HTHS that is hard to find over the shelf. Like xW30 with HTHS of 3.3-3.4 for both S2000 and E430.
Pennzoil took the same stance, almost word for word. My feeling is exactly what you said, they haven't tested it and they're basing their stance on that. If you think about it, they'd have a ton of testing, just based on how many combinations we can come up with within a brand. For me it's very easy not to mix, I'll find a use for the stray quarts or return them.
FWIW:
2004 Sunfire/2.2L ecotec: Bought new. GC up to 220k km.(137k mi.). Switched to Mobil 1 0W-40 when GC joined the ranks of the the unobtanium around here. Sold to a mechanic at 477k km.(300k mi.)in 2012. As of last month at 512k km. and running as well as it ever did.
2012 Buick Verano 2.4L: Bought new. Except for factory fill, Mobil 1 0W-40 all its life. Presently approaching 320k km. (200k mi.) with zero problems. Yes, I drive a lot.
2004 Sunfire/2.2L ecotec: Bought new. GC up to 220k km.(137k mi.). Switched to Mobil 1 0W-40 when GC joined the ranks of the the unobtanium around here. Sold to a mechanic at 477k km.(300k mi.)in 2012. As of last month at 512k km. and running as well as it ever did.
2012 Buick Verano 2.4L: Bought new. Except for factory fill, Mobil 1 0W-40 all its life. Presently approaching 320k km. (200k mi.) with zero problems. Yes, I drive a lot.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I asked a Mobil tech last week if I could mix AFE 0W20 with AFE 0W30 to get rid of a few stray quarts I have of their AFE 0W20 laying around. He told me they wouldn't back the product if I had a problem and wouldn't know what the end mix would be. The tech guy said it would be OK to mix them to top up toward the end of an OCI, but not to use if for a full OCI. I found that interesting, and it goes along with what Shannow and a few others have been saying for quite some time. Another member had a similar exchange with Mobil, and was told exactly the same thing. I also asked about using 0W40 for a mix oil, with AFE 0W20, and his reply was exactly the same.
I asked only because of all the discussions lately about mixing different viscosity to get a home brew.
They didn't test the mix therefore they don't know how it performs and don't back it. That's I understand, a big company like Mobil would not say anything without data to back it.
My reason for mixing is I like certain HTHS that is hard to find over the shelf. Like xW30 with HTHS of 3.3-3.4 for both S2000 and E430.
Pennzoil took the same stance, almost word for word. My feeling is exactly what you said, they haven't tested it and they're basing their stance on that. If you think about it, they'd have a ton of testing, just based on how many combinations we can come up with within a brand. For me it's very easy not to mix, I'll find a use for the stray quarts or return them.
The standard for miscibility (the "compatability" that is talked about on BITOG) requires that the finished engine oil (not gear oil, or engine oil mixed with gear oil) can be mixed with a handful of reference oils (7?)
Then the combined oil has to be cooled to the new pour point of the combination (no reference to the pour point of the test oil), that number recorded, then heated to 150C, and returned to that cold temperature for 24 hours.
When returned to room temperature, the combination is not allowed to drop out precipitates, or split into different layers.
That's the test and that's all it promises.
It doesn't promise 0W+0W=0W, SN+SN=SN, or any other performance parameter, just that the mix, cooled, heated, and cooled doesn't undergo chemical reactions that are clearly disadvantageous.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I asked a Mobil tech last week if I could mix AFE 0W20 with AFE 0W30 to get rid of a few stray quarts I have of their AFE 0W20 laying around. He told me they wouldn't back the product if I had a problem and wouldn't know what the end mix would be. The tech guy said it would be OK to mix them to top up toward the end of an OCI, but not to use if for a full OCI. I found that interesting, and it goes along with what Shannow and a few others have been saying for quite some time. Another member had a similar exchange with Mobil, and was told exactly the same thing. I also asked about using 0W40 for a mix oil, with AFE 0W20, and his reply was exactly the same.
I asked only because of all the discussions lately about mixing different viscosity to get a home brew.
They didn't test the mix therefore they don't know how it performs and don't back it. That's I understand, a big company like Mobil would not say anything without data to back it.
My reason for mixing is I like certain HTHS that is hard to find over the shelf. Like xW30 with HTHS of 3.3-3.4 for both S2000 and E430.
Pennzoil took the same stance, almost word for word. My feeling is exactly what you said, they haven't tested it and they're basing their stance on that. If you think about it, they'd have a ton of testing, just based on how many combinations we can come up with within a brand. For me it's very easy not to mix, I'll find a use for the stray quarts or return them.
The standard for miscibility (the "compatability" that is talked about on BITOG) requires that the finished engine oil (not gear oil, or engine oil mixed with gear oil) can be mixed with a handful of reference oils (7?)
Then the combined oil has to be cooled to the new pour point of the combination (no reference to the pour point of the test oil), that number recorded, then heated to 150C, and returned to that cold temperature for 24 hours.
When returned to room temperature, the combination is not allowed to drop out precipitates, or split into different layers.
That's the test and that's all it promises.
It doesn't promise 0W+0W=0W, SN+SN=SN, or any other performance parameter, just that the mix, cooled, heated, and cooled doesn't undergo chemical reactions that are clearly disadvantageous.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I asked a Mobil tech last week if I could mix AFE 0W20 with AFE 0W30 to get rid of a few stray quarts I have of their AFE 0W20 laying around. He told me they wouldn't back the product if I had a problem and wouldn't know what the end mix would be. The tech guy said it would be OK to mix them to top up toward the end of an OCI, but not to use if for a full OCI. I found that interesting, and it goes along with what Shannow and a few others have been saying for quite some time. Another member had a similar exchange with Mobil, and was told exactly the same thing. I also asked about using 0W40 for a mix oil, with AFE 0W20, and his reply was exactly the same.
I asked only because of all the discussions lately about mixing different viscosity to get a home brew.
They didn't test the mix therefore they don't know how it performs and don't back it. That's I understand, a big company like Mobil would not say anything without data to back it.
My reason for mixing is I like certain HTHS that is hard to find over the shelf. Like xW30 with HTHS of 3.3-3.4 for both S2000 and E430.
Pennzoil took the same stance, almost word for word. My feeling is exactly what you said, they haven't tested it and they're basing their stance on that. If you think about it, they'd have a ton of testing, just based on how many combinations we can come up with within a brand. For me it's very easy not to mix, I'll find a use for the stray quarts or return them.
The standard for miscibility (the "compatability" that is talked about on BITOG) requires that the finished engine oil (not gear oil, or engine oil mixed with gear oil) can be mixed with a handful of reference oils (7?)
Then the combined oil has to be cooled to the new pour point of the combination (no reference to the pour point of the test oil), that number recorded, then heated to 150C, and returned to that cold temperature for 24 hours.
When returned to room temperature, the combination is not allowed to drop out precipitates, or split into different layers.
That's the test and that's all it promises.
It doesn't promise 0W+0W=0W, SN+SN=SN, or any other performance parameter, just that the mix, cooled, heated, and cooled doesn't undergo chemical reactions that are clearly disadvantageous.
Like I said, my remaining AFE 0W20 is going back for a refund.
For me there's really no need to mix.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I asked a Mobil tech last week if I could mix AFE 0W20 with AFE 0W30 to get rid of a few stray quarts I have of their AFE 0W20 laying around. He told me they wouldn't back the product if I had a problem and wouldn't know what the end mix would be. The tech guy said it would be OK to mix them to top up toward the end of an OCI, but not to use if for a full OCI. I found that interesting, and it goes along with what Shannow and a few others have been saying for quite some time. Another member had a similar exchange with Mobil, and was told exactly the same thing. I also asked about using 0W40 for a mix oil, with AFE 0W20, and his reply was exactly the same.
I asked only because of all the discussions lately about mixing different viscosity to get a home brew.
They didn't test the mix therefore they don't know how it performs and don't back it. That's I understand, a big company like Mobil would not say anything without data to back it.
My reason for mixing is I like certain HTHS that is hard to find over the shelf. Like xW30 with HTHS of 3.3-3.4 for both S2000 and E430.
Pennzoil took the same stance, almost word for word. My feeling is exactly what you said, they haven't tested it and they're basing their stance on that. If you think about it, they'd have a ton of testing, just based on how many combinations we can come up with within a brand. For me it's very easy not to mix, I'll find a use for the stray quarts or return them.
The standard for miscibility (the "compatability" that is talked about on BITOG) requires that the finished engine oil (not gear oil, or engine oil mixed with gear oil) can be mixed with a handful of reference oils (7?)
Then the combined oil has to be cooled to the new pour point of the combination (no reference to the pour point of the test oil), that number recorded, then heated to 150C, and returned to that cold temperature for 24 hours.
When returned to room temperature, the combination is not allowed to drop out precipitates, or split into different layers.
That's the test and that's all it promises.
It doesn't promise 0W+0W=0W, SN+SN=SN, or any other performance parameter, just that the mix, cooled, heated, and cooled doesn't undergo chemical reactions that are clearly disadvantageous.
Like I said, my remaining AFE 0W20 is going back for a refund.
If I had to use just one oil weight, I would run 5w30. But 0w40 is good too
Realistically, you'd have no problems at all and would never notice the fractional decline in fuel economy.
Engines run happily on a wide range of oil grades, and you live in a place that sees cold, but not the extreme cold seen a few hundred miles due north of you.
The grade recommended in the OM isn't the only one that'll work.
The only reason to do this, though, would be if you got a great deal on a large stash of 0W-40.
Otherwise, you could just stay with the recommended 5w30 for all of your rides.
Engines run happily on a wide range of oil grades, and you live in a place that sees cold, but not the extreme cold seen a few hundred miles due north of you.
The grade recommended in the OM isn't the only one that'll work.
The only reason to do this, though, would be if you got a great deal on a large stash of 0W-40.
Otherwise, you could just stay with the recommended 5w30 for all of your rides.
We certainly can see our share of cold in the winter, Canada is about a 45 minute drive north. That said my last truck started just fine at -30f with a sump of 5w40 Rotella T6, so I don't think 0w40 would cause me any problems there.
Echotec1945, it's good to hear you've had such great luck with 0w40 in your Ecotech engines. This one has around 180k miles and runs well. The engine is going in an 80k Cavalier that was parked due to a bad clutch and its original engine robbed to go in another car.I bought the Cavalier to replace my Saturn that is developing some nasty undercarriage rot.
While the engine is out of the car, I am changing the water pump and timing set as preventative maintenance, its getting the latest revised timing chain tensioner and oil nozzle. I have heard that was a weak point on the early Ecotecs, although all the old parts looked remarkably good for 180k.
Echotec1945, it's good to hear you've had such great luck with 0w40 in your Ecotech engines. This one has around 180k miles and runs well. The engine is going in an 80k Cavalier that was parked due to a bad clutch and its original engine robbed to go in another car.I bought the Cavalier to replace my Saturn that is developing some nasty undercarriage rot.
While the engine is out of the car, I am changing the water pump and timing set as preventative maintenance, its getting the latest revised timing chain tensioner and oil nozzle. I have heard that was a weak point on the early Ecotecs, although all the old parts looked remarkably good for 180k.
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