0w-40 for everything

Ok so someone suggested an HDEO and another suggested 5w-40. What is the benefit of those over the 0w-40? I am not looking to extend mileage and even the GTO, which gets beat on, only sees 5500 RPM or so. Changed every year with less than 3k miles on the oil.
 
Ok so someone suggested an HDEO and another suggested 5w-40. What is the benefit of those over the 0w-40? I am not looking to extend mileage and even the GTO, which gets beat on, only sees 5500 RPM or so. Changed every year with less than 3k miles on the oil.
Stick with your original plan. Rotella T6 is no longer certified for gasoline engine usage by Shell. The M1 0w40 covers all your bases and is available nearly everywhere.
 
From my limited understanding here, if they are both 0W, it won't make any difference for cold starts.
Its still a higher viscosity oil. Yes, they will both move. But a 20 grade oil will be easier to pump, quicker to get moving, and heat up faster than a 40.
 
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yes the 0W-40 will handle all of your vehicles just fine. here's what toyota recommends for the 5th gen 4Runner for the Puerto Rico market.

Yes, the 5th Gen 4Runner that arrives in PR is outfitted with the ancient, extremely reliable 1GR-FE engine. obviously in America they only recommend the 0W-20

pr 4runner.jpg
 
yes the 0W-40 will handle all of your vehicles just fine. here's what toyota recommends for the 5th gen 4Runner for the Puerto Rico market.

Yes, the 5th Gen 4Runner that arrives in PR is outfitted with the ancient, extremely reliable 1GR-FE engine. obviously in America they only recommend the 0W-20

View attachment 169035
thank you!! very informative.
 
I disagree. The faster it moves through the engine, the quicker it will warm up. It wont be a significant difference.
No, most of the heating in the oil comes from the shear in the bearings. A higher viscosity oil will always heat up faster. If you are short tripping and you want the oil to heat up, you’re better off with a higher grade.

And honestly, the oil will move through the engine at pretty much the same speed. Certainly on the pressurized side.
 
If the oil is not getting into the combustion chamber, full SAPS is not a concern. If the engine is consuming large quantities of oil, a full-SAPS oil will kill the cats quickly; low-SAPS would still consume oil but not poison the cats as quickly.
SAPS is always a concern, but more of a concern for oil burners. All engines consume some quantity of oil.
 
I’ve historically put M1 0w40 in everything I’ve driven for the last 15 years. Two of them called for 5w20 and I had no problems. My current daily has has its required certification on the bottle.
 
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