I’d probably not use it in a DI engine due to SAPS in 0w40. Maybe I’m missing something
0w-40 for everything
- Thread starter CheezWhiz
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Chris, ya beat me to it. Thank You
No, it just has to be low enough viscosity to pump. Once it’s into the pump and in the pressurized side, the benefits of positive displacement pumps take over.
Again, a cold 0w20 is much, much thicker than a 10w40 at operating temps.
As mentioned above, you could use the M1 ESP versions (I’ve got a 5-gal bucket of Delvac 1 ESP 5w40 that at some point will end up in my Subie).
Are you just fishing or is this actually the state of your understanding?
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I feel like we all know the answer to that.
I've seen Mike Finnegan dumping M1 0w40 into his hotrods on YouTube.
Remember the familiar and vaunted M1 0W40 has been reformulated to API SN+/SP It may no longer be magical.
Though the new API-SP product carries Porsche A40, MB229.5x VAG 505, BMW LL-01 approvals
Certainly not "bottom shelf" tier
Though the new API-SP product carries Porsche A40, MB229.5x VAG 505, BMW LL-01 approvals
Certainly not "bottom shelf" tier
The Euro approvals show the oil is much more robust than any SP requirements IMO. It’s certainly no pedestrian oil even if it’s been reformulated.
Just as HPL uses a d1G3-friendly add pack, no data or people are claiming its “mundane” PCEO isn’t capable of great things.
Is there any specific vehicle that it would be an issue? (Rhetorical?)
shared sumps?
Seems like the consensus is "yes." So that is what I will do. Thanks all!!
Never said I was an expert, but assume the lower the thickness of the oil the easier it will flow and thus be thinner.
I’d pick a 0W40 hdeo like T6, Delvac and Duron, but that’s just me.
These are at odds with each other.
A lot of words to make no point at all.
As I understand it the cold weather performance in part focuses on the ability of the oil to flow from the pan into the oil pump.
(ASTM D4684).
The second part (Cold Cranking Viscosity) is designed to simulate the viscosity of oil in the bearings at cold start. I would describe it as the amount of effort to turn over a cold engine. (ASTM D5293)
https://www.instituteofmaterials.com/oil-tests-conducted/
Oh REALLY. You don't know MAGICAL then.
Well over a decade ago XoM reformed M1 R1 4T superbike juice during the " Let's go fake synthetic" era and it became Ho Hum - at best. It was one of the last of the true synthetic classic M1 oils. GONE!
Had me boiling mad as it was a robust lube good for hot rods and boosting marginal performing multi-grade 30's.
Don't take away my GOOD stuff!
Now I don't have much use for 0W40 FS anymore though I did when I had my VW turbo and it worked wonders to boost the MOTUL 0W20 I was running. The little jetta engine ran superb up till I traded it with that last sump going strong with over 6K hard miles on it.
Just reminding some on here that the new FS will be different - and different can go either way.
At least I might expect no shocking major base oil blend changes as happened with the M1 4T.
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Why not use 5W-40? That's what I settled on.
From my limited understanding here, if they are both 0W, it won't make any difference for cold starts.
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