07 Suzuki Swift Sport 1.6 - Which Engine Oil

[Effer]

Originally Posted By: alcyon
To me, any trusted brand ACEA A3/B4 oil will do great. I buy either Shell Helix Ultra 5W40, Mobil 1 0W40, or Castrol Edge 5W40 that goes on sale in Tesco. You could just drive to JB Tesco and buy several bottles on sale, at RM149. I just bought M1 0W40 on sale a month ago.


Hey alcyon, which part of Malaysia are you from? Just wondering if you know any good workshops in JB that you could recommend.

@Kiwi_ME - This car is truly a pocket rocket, love the high revving nature of the VVT and with such good fuel economy you can't complain!

 

[alcyon]

Originally Posted By: Effer
Originally Posted By: alcyon
To me, any trusted brand ACEA A3/B4 oil will do great. I buy either Shell Helix Ultra 5W40, Mobil 1 0W40, or Castrol Edge 5W40 that goes on sale in Tesco. You could just drive to JB Tesco and buy several bottles on sale, at RM149. I just bought M1 0W40 on sale a month ago.


Hey alcyon, which part of Malaysia are you from? Just wondering if you know any good workshops in JB that you could recommend.

@Kiwi_ME - This car is truly a pocket rocket, love the high revving nature of the VVT and with such good fuel economy you can't complain!

I am from Kuala Lumpur, so I cant help you about workshops in JB, generally though servicing cars in Malaysia is a lot cheaper than in Singapore.

 

[Effer]

Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Effer
Looks like I will be visiting the workshop later today...

Would there be any problems using SN grade for a 2007 vehicle?

Manual suggest to change oil every 7500km / 4500miles



SN/SM/SL should be fine.

How many km has this 300V been running ?

Due to lack of detergent/dispersant from 300V relative to street oils , I'm thinking out loud

your used 300V (compared to similar aged street oil) may look 'clearer/cleaner' and more goldish

............. with hypothesis that lower levels of contaminants being removed from engine system

........... however, unusual wear if any , may change the scenario though.


Effer, would appreciate if you could kindly upload pictures on 'colours' of used 300V and

internal view below valve cover with oil filler cap removed, to look for signs of left-behind

contaminants/sludge/varnish not picked up by 300V of prolonged use.

As requested, seems hard to get a good shot..

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: Effer
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Effer
Looks like I will be visiting the workshop later today...

Would there be any problems using SN grade for a 2007 vehicle?

Manual suggest to change oil every 7500km / 4500miles



SN/SM/SL should be fine.

How many km has this 300V been running ?

Due to lack of detergent/dispersant from 300V relative to street oils , I'm thinking out loud

your used 300V (compared to similar aged street oil) may look 'clearer/cleaner' and more goldish

............. with hypothesis that lower levels of contaminants being removed from engine system

........... however, unusual wear if any , may change the scenario though.


Effer, would appreciate if you could kindly upload pictures on 'colours' of used 300V and

internal view below valve cover with oil filler cap removed, to look for signs of left-behind

contaminants/sludge/varnish not picked up by 300V of prolonged use.

As requested, seems hard to get a good shot..

Good shot , Effer.

Btw, how many km is this 300V ? and how many 3K mi OCI's of 300V oils been done before today ?

Probably somebody familiar with Motuls/full synthetics can commend ...........

Hmm ..... any opinions/observation from your mechanic , Effer ?

 

[Effer]

Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Effer
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Effer
Looks like I will be visiting the workshop later today...

Would there be any problems using SN grade for a 2007 vehicle?

Manual suggest to change oil every 7500km / 4500miles



SN/SM/SL should be fine.

How many km has this 300V been running ?

Due to lack of detergent/dispersant from 300V relative to street oils , I'm thinking out loud

your used 300V (compared to similar aged street oil) may look 'clearer/cleaner' and more goldish

............. with hypothesis that lower levels of contaminants being removed from engine system

........... however, unusual wear if any , may change the scenario though.


Effer, would appreciate if you could kindly upload pictures on 'colours' of used 300V and

internal view below valve cover with oil filler cap removed, to look for signs of left-behind

contaminants/sludge/varnish not picked up by 300V of prolonged use.

As requested, seems hard to get a good shot..

Good shot , Effer.

Btw, how many km is this 300V ? and how many 3K mi OCI's of 300V oils been done before today ?

Probably somebody familiar with Motuls/full synthetics can commend ...........

Hmm ..... any opinions/observation from your mechanic , Effer ?

I will ask my mechanic and let you guys know when I do my oil change later tonight.
I just got over this car a couple months, so no idea what oil the previous owner was using.

For this particular 300V I'm just about to hit 5000km. I have been reading up on the 300V and it actually comes with additives and detergents, and using double ester.

Taken from: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/
"Detergency/Dispersency: The polar nature of esters also makes them good solvents and dispersants. This allows the esters to solubilize or disperse oil degradation by-products which might otherwise be deposited as varnish or sludge, and translates into cleaner operation and improved additive solubility in the final lubricant."

I'm still a car noob and hope to learn more from here, 300V is very costly about (was quoted about 450rm in jb).

Lucky for the good folks sharing their knowledge, it seems 300V might be overkill irregardless racing oil or not. Happy to know I can put the additional 30% savings into my pocket

 

[zeng]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3226986/9_+years_on_synthetic_oil,_Val#Post3226986


Hey Alcyon , maybe you are able to shed some insights on Effer's photoshot on a 5000 km fully synthetic oils condition ......

 

[alcyon]

Originally Posted By: zeng
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3226986/9_+years_on_synthetic_oil,_Val#Post3226986


Hey Alcyon , maybe you are able to shed some insights on Effer's photoshot on a 5000 km fully synthetic oils condition ......

Its really hard to tell from the pic but your innards look clean. I had a look at the 300V 5W40 specs and even though its a race oil, it has a TBN of 8.25, which is pretty high for a racing oil. I have seen UOAs on this site where some cars have gone 7700 miles safely on 300V 5W40 so I think zeng's worry is misplaced in the motul's case.
Understandably the assumption is that race oils have low TBN, but the MOTUL seems to be the exception.

 

[Effer]

Originally Posted By: alcyon
Originally Posted By: zeng
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3226986/9_+years_on_synthetic_oil,_Val#Post3226986


Hey Alcyon , maybe you are able to shed some insights on Effer's photoshot on a 5000 km fully synthetic oils condition ......

Its really hard to tell from the pic but your innards look clean. I had a look at the 300V 5W40 specs and even though its a race oil, it has a TBN of 8.25, which is pretty high for a racing oil. I have seen UOAs on this site where some cars have gone 7700 miles safely on 300V 5W40 so I think zeng's worry is misplaced in the motul's case.
Understandably the assumption is that race oils have low TBN, but the MOTUL seems to be the exception.


Just got back from the workshop with the Motul 8100 5w40 in it. Traffic wasn't very clear so no chance to open the throttle to see how smooth the rev climbs.

Spoke to the mechanic and he mentioned the oil still looks good, shouldn't be a problem going another 3000km easily, despite the old looking quite dark during the draining.

 

[alcyon]

Oil looking dark isnt an indication that its bad. 3000km more is no problem with the 300v.

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: alcyon
Originally Posted By: zeng
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3226986/9_+years_on_synthetic_oil,_Val#Post3226986


Hey Alcyon , maybe you are able to shed some insights on Effer's photoshot on a 5000 km fully synthetic oils condition ......

Its really hard to tell from the pic but your innards look clean. I had a look at the 300V 5W40 specs and even though its a race oil, it has a TBN of 8.25, which is pretty high for a racing oil. I have seen UOAs on this site where some cars have gone 7700 miles safely on 300V 5W40 so I think zeng's worry is misplaced in the motul's case.
Understandably the assumption is that race oils have low TBN, but the MOTUL seems to be the exception.



My bad ........ after gotten hysterical. ........

Thousand apologies for false alarm ,

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: Effer
Originally Posted By: alcyon
Originally Posted By: zeng
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3226986/9_+years_on_synthetic_oil,_Val#Post3226986


Hey Alcyon , maybe you are able to shed some insights on Effer's photoshot on a 5000 km fully synthetic oils condition ......

Its really hard to tell from the pic but your innards look clean. I had a look at the 300V 5W40 specs and even though its a race oil, it has a TBN of 8.25, which is pretty high for a racing oil. I have seen UOAs on this site where some cars have gone 7700 miles safely on 300V 5W40 so I think zeng's worry is misplaced in the motul's case.
Understandably the assumption is that race oils have low TBN, but the MOTUL seems to be the exception.


Just got back from the workshop with the Motul 8100 5w40 in it. Traffic wasn't very clear so no chance to open the throttle to see how smooth the rev climbs.

Spoke to the mechanic and he mentioned the oil still looks good, shouldn't be a problem going another 3000km easily, despite the old(oil) looking quite dark during the draining.



In a 5000km used oil that is looking quite dark during the draining (despite a supposely racing

oil) is really a 'nice' happenings ...... indicating the oil detergents are working normally to

remove contaminants from engine component surfaces AND disperse the contaminants within the

circulating oil ....... thus the 'clouded' oil appearance.


Btw , Alcyon's an OCI of 8xxx km with Helix Ultra where fuel sulfur is 500 ppm in Malaysia.

(refer link above)Despite your mechanic/Alcyon's 8000 km OCI recommendation , and noting that

Singapore gasoline is Euro4 at 50 ppm ............you have plenty of room to push the ACEA Motul

OCI further than 8000 km.

Note:Some suggested OCI's above by several posters is worth considering.

 

[Effer]

Learnt a lot from you guys, awesome!

Wow didn't know about the fuel sulfur in Malaysia is that high? How about Shell 97 and V-power racing? (that might explain the pinging sound I was using Shell 97 from jb).

Taking into account the Motul 8100 is ACEA A3/B4 (and made to last longer than the 300V). I definitely can see this current oil change to last me quite awhile.

Although the Service Manual recommends the OCI to be at 7500km (Standard practice here by the stealerships/workshops are usually every 10000km)

What mileage should I do the next change?

 

[alcyon]

Actually I went for 8000km oil changes because I didn't know the oil could go longer before I joined BITOG. TBH I shot for 15000km(9300mi) on my last OCI on AMSOIL 10W40 high zinc, and through my oil analysis found a thickening of the oil indicating oxidation. Zeng was bringing up the issue of high sulfur petrol so I believe this oxidation occurred because of the 15000km/1 year OCI on such low quality fuel. I ran Castrol edge 0W40 once at 6300km(4900mi) and UOA shows no oxidation and thickening.
I believe the sweet spot for my engine considering its a carb and the low quality fuel, the max I can push for my engine is 13000km without oil thickening. I will confirm this as my OCI is coming up in a month, I am now at 10500km on Shell Helix Ultra SN 5W40.
I am unsure if 97 ron fuel in Malaysia is of lower quality, I think RON 97 in MY and SG is the same, only the 95 is of lower quality.

Save your money and buy either M1, SHU or CE on sale at TESCO, and with the money you saved, when you come to KL, buy me a drink !

 

[zeng]

I venture to guess the Alcyon's Helix Ultra 5W40 SN is probably be good for 12000km(7500 mi) to

13000km(8150 mi) ,please update here for you are providing a benchmark to Effer and possibly me

, for I'm still a dino guy.(Europe and US fuels are all Euro 5 ,I suppose)


Considering Alcyon's Mitsu 4G13 is a carburetted engine , with 500 ppm sulfur in fuel , Effer

should be able to do more with Multi-Port-Injection engine ( do I guess right?) and Singapore's

50 ppm sulfur.


Alcyon, RON 95 in Malaysia is still Euro II at 500 ppm sulfur todate, since 1994(?). However all

RON 97 in Malaysia after Sept 1,2015 onwards is Euro 4 at 50 ppm .

Hence if you switch form RON95 to RON97, your should experience reduced engine combustion

contamination that should push your OCI's further, I guess.

Having said this, a properly maintain Mitsu 4G1x or Suzuki engines do not require RON 97.

 

[Effer]

yes zeng - my M16A engine is a multiport injection. However, it requires a min RON 98 (high compression engine @ 11.1:1), the last time I pumped 97 in JB, my mechanic mentioned there was a pinging on the engine.

alcyon: I have heard bad things about Castrol Edge that we get here, had a relative toyota engine ended up all in sludge when she neglected her oil change. What was your impression of it?

By the way, Amsoil seems to have a good fanbase online but have only tried their manual transmission fluid, how was your Amsoil EO experience?

I will take a look at the oil section next time I visit up north, M1 seems to be a good recommendation so far. Which M1 should I get?

Haha I will be sure to get both of you a drink at Caffeinees next time I'm in KL.

 

[alcyon]

Originally Posted By: Effer
yes zeng - my M16A engine is a multiport injection. However, it requires a min RON 98 (high compression engine @ 11.1:1), the last time I pumped 97 in JB, my mechanic mentioned there was a pinging on the engine.

alcyon: I have heard bad things about Castrol Edge that we get here, had a relative toyota engine ended up all in sludge when she neglected her oil change. What was your impression of it?

By the way, Amsoil seems to have a good fanbase online but have only tried their manual transmission fluid, how was your Amsoil EO experience?

I will take a look at the oil section next time I visit up north, M1 seems to be a good recommendation so far. Which M1 should I get?

Haha I will be sure to get both of you a drink at Caffeinees next time I'm in KL.


I have experience no such issues with Castrol EDGE with titanium, you know the yellowish/goldish bottle. Your relative must have got counterfeit Castrol Edge which is common in this region, that's why I buy from TESCO or from gas stations only. However buying from TESCO is a lot cheaper. My UOA of Castrol Edge from TESCO shows it is genuine. How long did she "neglect" to change the oil? The Castrol Edge can at easily go 15000 to 20000km if engine and fuel is good.

I recommend M1 0W40. At Tesco there are only 2 grades, 0W40 and 5W50.
The AMSOIL is an older spec group4 synthethic, its a good oil but I do not see it being any better than a group3 from shell or Castrol that I mentioned. THE amsoil had a TBN of 12, the Shell 10.4. No use having a high TBN if the oil oxidises and thickens before the TBN is used up IMHO.
So I always opt for Synthetic's on sale.

 

[Effer]

Not too sure on the exact details, but if I recall was something like once a year oil change since she didn't travel too much.

Will keep a look out for M1 0w40 (gold cap/bottle right?)

What's your routine check to know when is the time for you to change your oil? Do you fix a it like at 10000km or by using the dipstick?

Btw, is there any point in adding additives such as (engine protection, valve cleaner etc...) into servicing routines?

 

[alcyon]

I will post some pics of my oil stash later tonight. Mobil 1 is a silverish bottle.
I change oil based on my mileage. The oil always looks good on the dipstick, ever since I rebuilt my engine in late 2004.
Never add additives, the 3 oils I mentioned are high quality group3s . If you seen the thread about my engine that zeng posted you will notice those staple brands kept my engine running clean and smooth all his while.
When I fixed my A/C 2 months back, the A/C guy revved my engine to 4K rpm in the shop,, no smoke from the tailpipe at all.

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: Effer
yes zeng - my M16A engine is a multiport injection. However, it requires a min RON 98 (high compression engine @ 11.1:1), the last time I pumped 97 in JB, my mechanic mentioned there was a pinging on the engine.



Yeah, I understand that depends on factory tuning . Was told most similar cars in Malaysia is factory-tuned for RoN 95 and above .......... don't really know how's that done though ..... why not give a tinkle to Suzuki (Singapore or JB) to clarify ?

Originally Posted By: Effer
alcyon: I have heard bad things about Castrol Edge that we get here, had a relative toyota engine ended up all in sludge when she neglected her oil change. What was your impression of it?



Is the Toyota a V6 3.X /Camry years 1998 to 2004 thereabouts that had some sludge problems is US?

M 1 0W40 has more stringent/superior specs than 5W-50 .

 

[alcyon]

My Stash



bought from TESCO malaysia, both API SN mid 2014 stocks. The Shell is the pureplus version. Both made in the EU, not locally blended, thats why can get at a good price.