07 corolla, YB Penn. 5w30, 4814 miles

[Artemedes]

I think this UOA is interesting because it is a run of conventional after two runs of synthetic. Also, at 20K miles the engine should be completely wore-in. Most of the driving was stop & go traffic around Kansas City.

This OCI was also the second on the same toyota oem oil filter (10k total). When doing this oil change I changed both the oil filter and the air filter and refilled with more conventional Penn. 5w30.

I didn't start to take the sample early enough so blackstone didn't have enough to do a flashpoint/fuel % test. This surprised me because I was able to get enough oil to get the bottle around 3/4 full. The first UOA is toyota dealer bulk 5w30. No clue what it really is, but the YB 5w30 was ran longer and didn't shear quite as badly. I think I will go back to PP but try the 5w30 instead of the 5w20.


OIL---------------YB5/30---PP5/20---PP5/20---?5/30
MI/HR on Oil------4814-----5531-----4910-----3920
MI/HR on Unit-----20222----15398----9867-----4957
Sample Date-------7/28/08--3/20/08--11/3/07--7/5/07
Make up Oil-------0--------0--------0--------0
ALUMINUM----------2--------3--------3--------3
CHROMIUM----------0--------1--------0--------0
IRON--------------5--------9--------8--------9
COPPER------------1--------3--------11-------31
LEAD--------------0--------2--------2--------1
TIN---------------0--------0--------1--------4
MOLY--------------8--------61-------53-------115
NICKEL------------0--------0--------0--------0
MANGANESE---------1--------1--------1--------1
SILVER------------0--------0--------0--------0
TITANIUM----------0--------0--------0--------0
POTASSIUM---------3--------0--------1--------4
BORON-------------68-------34-------24-------40
SILICON-----------11-------15-------18-------53
SODIUM------------4--------8--------32-------248
CALCIUM-----------2172-----2983-----2556-----1436
MAGNESIUM---------10-------21-------16-------8
PHOSPHORUS--------684------710------664------585
ZINC--------------844------876------777------736
BARIUM------------0--------0--------0--------2

SUS VISC. @ 210F--53.2-----52.2-----52.5-----52.7
cST VISC. @ 100C--8.24-----7.93-----8.03-----8.10
FLASHPOINT F------Short----390------385------385
FUEL %------------??------- ANTIFREEZE %------0.0------0.0------?-------0.0
WATER-------------0.0------0.0------0.0-----0.0
INSOLUBLES--------0.3------0.2------0.1-----0.2
TBN---------------1.7------3.2------4.3-----2.9

 

[addyguy]

ANOTHER YB report with NO moly in the formula!

Results are good, but it is interesting the 'path' Pennzoil is taking with this oil - high Calcium w/Boron formulation to promote cleaning, shows their 'cleaning campaign' DID mean a formulation change!

 

[Artemedes]

Would need a VOA to tell for sure, but looks to me that the PP has a better add pack. More Calcium, a bit more Moly. That is one of the reasons I am going to go back to PP and try a 7500 mile run. If I time it right it will over winter too.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Since you are still in warranty why don't you try Pennzoil 5w-20 conventional for the 5k?

I would not go back to the PP. The YB gave you 1/2 the iron, third of the copper. Why spend the $$ for nothing?

Moly is not big deal. LOOK at your results WITHOUT IT!

Who cares what base, what type or how much when your UOA is like this.

Don't get caught up with the "deposit this and ring pack" [censored] that is going on this board.

The extra Calcium is going to do you nothing for a 5k or non-OEM 7.5k run.

I'll stand that the 1ZZFE works the best with conventional 5w-30 oils. (mine sure does)

But since yours is approved for 5w-20, try that and lets see what the UOA says. Trending is good!

Your Corolla will be fine with ANY oil you put in it. Why spend the $$? (but I would stay with changing the filter and oil every 5k or 6 months whichever comes first JUST IN CASE)

You are doing 5k every 4 months with mostly city driving.

Thanks for the EXCELLENT UOA!

Take care, bill

 

[Cup of Joe]

YB used to have allot of Moly and less calcium and boron. See my UOA from last year similar mileage and YB.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=75287&Number=968751#Post968751

I have a PP UOA that I didn't post that could have gone 8k easy.

 

[Artemedes]

Hi Bill,

I generally agree with most of your comments. When I said I was thinking of going back to PP I was going to extend the run to at least 7500 miles.

Is the YB 5w20 more shear stable than the 5w30? The 5w30 obviously did the job it was supposed to, but I don't think I want to try the 5w20 if it is going to shear like the 5w20. The PP 5w20 didn't shear at all.

With a TBN of 1.7 with my driving habits I would just feel more comfortable with the PP beyond 5000 miles. Especially with winter salted roads.

The current fill is another run of YB 5w30, I will take it to 5k miles. This will put me back into beginning of cold weather. My Garage is not heated and I would like to just run the PP until warmer spring weather. If my driving is consistent with last year I will have to take the oil pretty close to 7500 miles to do so. If that experiment comes out well I am thinking just doing 2 OCI a year with synthetic like PP. As the UOA above shows, the tbn is already getting low at 5k miles.

As usual I will continue to get UOA so I have real facts in my engine with my driving style to base my decisions on.

 

[MysticGold04]

I'll second what Bill said... I'd continue to use YB or any other non-syn name brand product. Its just simply not needed unless you have artic temps in the winter or 120F heat during the summer or you have a monster engine (which you dont) with major modifications like turbos or superchargers... Just my opinion. I used to believe that I needed synthetic, and only the best.. yes, I still use the best, its just not syn.

 

[Pesca]

Originally Posted By: Artemedes
Hi Bill,

I generally agree with most of your comments. When I said I was thinking of going back to PP I was going to extend the run to at least 7500 miles.


Is toyota warranty 5 Kmiles or 6 months, whichever comes first?
Are you still under warranty?

If you want to stay under warranty, you should not go beyond 5 Kmiles. YB proved that it can do the job in your car.
Maybe you want to take some margin for winter (how is the weather?) and I could understand that you want to go with PP (but with 5Kmiles OCI, not 7.5), otherwise YB is just fine for your car.

If you don't care about your warranty being void, going 7.5Kmiles with PP sounds good.

BTW, if your car can use 5W20 oil, I will do it for sure: Better starts and may be some fuel economy.

 

[buster]

Tbn of 1.7 after only 4,800 miles tells me the oil is spent. Conventional oils are perfectly fine for 99% of us. If you want to extend your drain intervals more than 5k, use the PP.

 

[FZ1]

Thanks for the very informative comparo. Notice any slight mpg increase? Mpg only has to increase about .4 to pay for the $ difference of PP over YB.

 

[smokey1]

here in the N.E. you're lucky to get the regular PENNZOIL for less than $2 a quart , that's why I use the PLATINUM which can be had for less than $1.50 a quart more ( B.O.G.O.F. or other sales ) than the YELLOW BOTTLE . Like the idea for synthetic when our 2 YARIS remain in the garage longer during the winter as well and I swear the engines are quieter on interstate , etc. with the PLATINUM ;- ) . Makes more sense to get the conventional PENNZOIL in areas where you can get it for 99 cents or less , MUST BE NICE :- ( ! Otherwise I'd say the heck with it and go back to the regular oil , especially if oil ever hits $150 a barrel or > . Last , thanks to finding this website via PRIUSCHAT I've been bitten by the SYNBUG :- ) . Or should it be :- ( since the discovery .

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: smokey1
here in the N.E. you're lucky to get the regular PENNZOIL for less than $2 a quart , that's why I use the PLATINUM which can be had for less than $1.50 a quart more ( B.O.G.O.F. or other sales ) than the YELLOW BOTTLE . Like the idea for synthetic when our 2 YARIS remain in the garage longer during the winter as well and I swear the engines are quieter on interstate , etc. with the PLATINUM ;- ) . Makes more sense to get the conventional PENNZOIL in areas where you can get it for 99 cents or less , MUST BE NICE :- ( ! Otherwise I'd say the heck with it and go back to the regular oil , especially if oil ever hits $150 a barrel or > . Last , thanks to finding this website via PRIUSCHAT I've been bitten by the SYNBUG :- ) . Or should it be :- ( since the discovery .


I'd rather save the $250 that you'd spend over 200k. That is how much "only" $1.50 a quart more cost you.

$250 is 2,500 miles worth of gas @ $4 a gallon.

And in the end your engine will be the same whether you use Conventional or syn.

Again thanks to the original poster with his excellent UOAs.

It helps me make up my mind.

I'd love to see others do the walk instead of talk the talk.

Bill

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Artemedes
Hi Bill,

I generally agree with most of your comments. When I said I was thinking of going back to PP I was going to extend the run to at least 7500 miles.

Is the YB 5w20 more shear stable than the 5w30? The 5w30 obviously did the job it was supposed to, but I don't think I want to try the 5w20 if it is going to shear like the 5w20. The PP 5w20 didn't shear at all.

With a TBN of 1.7 with my driving habits I would just feel more comfortable with the PP beyond 5000 miles. Especially with winter salted roads.

The current fill is another run of YB 5w30, I will take it to 5k miles. This will put me back into beginning of cold weather. My Garage is not heated and I would like to just run the PP until warmer spring weather. If my driving is consistent with last year I will have to take the oil pretty close to 7500 miles to do so. If that experiment comes out well I am thinking just doing 2 OCI a year with synthetic like PP. As the UOA above shows, the tbn is already getting low at 5k miles.

As usual I will continue to get UOA so I have real facts in my engine with my driving style to base my decisions on.


Don't WORRY about the SHEAR. It is NOT a problem. LOOK at the EXCELLENT UOA you have here.

I'd love to have your UOA.

It is better than the last 4-5 UOAs I've had with my Corolla. My UOAs used to be better (like yours).

The 5w-20 is a excellent oil and will be fine. I'd like to see you make a run with it and see if everything is good to go.

I do have a few questions.

1. Did you notice any MPG increase or decrease between the 5w-20 and 5w-30? Syn vs conventional?

2. Any issues like noise or running smoother?

And if it was me, I'd STAY with the 5k or 6months oil and filter changes until at least 60k. (Call Toyota and ask them what they think about 7,500 mile UOAs (WITH ANY TYPE of OIL) and what it will do to your warranty)

I'd go to 80k as I have had to exercise a warranty claim AFTER the miles were over by 25k. I got them to pay @ 61k when the miles ended @ 36k.

Having and FOLLOWING the MFG OCI is just a smart thing to do IMO. EVERY extended OCI I have done past 5k has not turned out as good as an 5k OCI.

I've either had issues with noise or having to use expensive oil.

I'll just stick with what works. And I will save the "only a buck or 2 more" and spend that for gas.

As far as you having to change oil in the winter. The corolla is one of the easiest cars to change. My garage is not heated either. Drive up on the ramps, drain and refill. Less than 1/2 hour.

Take care, bill

 

[Steve S]

You could use M1 and as many do, change it at 5,000 miles as many do and get the same results . Except it will cost $4.00 per qt more.

 

[glennc]

I don't understand why you would pay for several UOAs and then disregard what they are telling you by going back to the lesser-performing oil.

Everything else is secondary to observed wear. Whether the oil shears a bit or what the add pack has is only important to the extent that it affects the wear, directly or indirectly. (I would grant that seal health and FE could be exceptions, but those are not what you are citing and would not necessarily benefit from going back to PP).

This is an outstanding, virtually perfect, UOA on a reasonably priced oil.

My only questions are how much of the improvement has to do with the upgrade in viscosity and how much has to do with the change from PP to YB. I would personally try a run with 5W-20 YB to find out.

 

[GMFan]

So Pennzoil dropped the Moly but the oil still performs great.

I have 2 quarts of the "old" Pennzoil and 2 quarts of the "active cleaning" Pennzoil in my Saturn. Got the best of both worlds maybe?

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: GMFan
So Pennzoil dropped the Moly but the oil still performs great.

I have 2 quarts of the "old" Pennzoil and 2 quarts of the "active cleaning" Pennzoil in my Saturn. Got the best of both worlds maybe?

Works for me!

Pennzoil conventional is really very good. I've NEVER had any issues with it.

Bill

 

[buster]

I'm not anti- conventional oil at all but I don't see what the big deal is with this report?

First of all, it's a Toyota. They don't wear all that much. Second, the Tbn is 1.7 after 4,800 miles. How is that considered great?

Last, it's now a low 20 grade oil after only 4,800 miles. It's supposed to be a 5w30? Just playing Devil's advocate here.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: buster
I'm not anti- conventional oil at all but I don't see what the big deal is with this report?

First of all, it's a Toyota. They don't wear all that much. Second, the Tbn is 1.7 after 4,800 miles. How is that considered great?

Last, it's now a low 20 grade oil after only 4,800 miles. It's supposed to be a 5w30? Just playing Devil's advocate here.


Wear metals are excellent. TBN is perfect for a OCI of MOSTLY city driving (something you and I don't know about) and his OCI is 5k.

All on oil that is everyday priced for around $2 - $2.50 a quart.

Shearing is NOT an issue.

The oil is gone. Who cares if the TBN is 1.7 or 77.7? If it was .07 then maybe some concern.

Take care, Bill

 

[glennc]

We know conventional 5W-30s will tend to shear, yet they still perform superbly. TBN might hold up better on a second run - would be interesting to see - but it does seem appropriate here for the use and the expected life of the oil. The superb nature of the UOA is that over approximately the same span of mileage the amount of metal that wound up in the oil is much less - almost a factor of two less - than it was with the touted and doubtless very good PP.

FWIW an equivalent 5W-20 will probably not shear and will probably end up at about the same viscosity. Again, I'd be curious to find out.