06 Civic, Bad Catalytic Converter?

I was faced with same situation on my old car, check engine light it, it turn out to be catalytic convertor; mine had 2 because car was made for the CA market; I replaced them with new OEM parts; it cost me about the same $1800 with installation at a privately owned small local shop; I went with OEM because everything else was just fine on the car (220K at the time of replacement); The car is still in the family, a real keeper.

So just some others have said, if you going to keep it and hit that 300K mark or more then I would invest in OEM parts; however, if you do not plan on keeping it long enough then an aftermarket item would fit the bill because they do not last nearly as much as OEM parts, 1Y or so

also, once they work on your catalytic, most likely these old sensors may start to behave strangely and you may need replace those as well down the road
 
Rattling could be a heat shield or the guts of the cat. Go underneath and tug/ knock on stuff until you find it.

OE cats are worth several hundred bucks in scrap, so if you get a cheapo aftermarket and put it in yourself you could be ahead of the game.

You have the manifold-cat? Here's a new one for a hundo.

Agree with above posters, "new" used cars are unusually expensive, and spark plug anti-foulers work.
 
Its probably something in the exhaust rattling or a shield and you probably do need a new cat. An 06 Civic could keep running for a long time. I would find a good mechanic and get it repaired or start with an inexpensive replacement cat converter. I had an 06 Civic previous to my 2012 Civic. The 06 was trouble free and so is the 2012 so far. The 2014 through 2017 Civics are all good but some people say to stay away from the 1.5 Turbo due to fuel dilution on the 2016's and newer. The 2014 and 2015's are a lot less money however the 2016 and newer are very impressive. I drove the 2016 Civic with the earth dreams engine and CVT transmission and the car was very fast and rode like a dream for a smaller car. I thought it appeared very powerful and I actually liked the CVT since it stayed near redline all the way up to 80 mph and go there quickly. With that being said I would take a risk on the 1.5 turbo since they are very impressive in the quarter mile and get about 42 mpg on the highway. Even the stock LS that I drove as a loaner while I had a factory recall on my 2012 done seemed to average very good mpg on the highway. I like the looks and interior a lot better on the 2016 and newer cars too and they won't look old right away. They are getting fairly reasonable in price now that they have been out for about 6 years.
 
Great advice and things to think about, thank you all for your opinions and advice. In a stroke of luck (gonna go buy a lotto ticket!) the engine light went off on its own this morning.

Planning on keeping a close eye and ear on it, knowing there are some much cheaper alternatives to keep it going. Definitely looking at a 2016 moving forward, but I’m going to run this as far as reasonable first!
 
Most DIY owners of $1500 cars in such states would just gut the cat if they get more of those symptoms.
I usually don't recommend this, but gut cat or remove it, many muffler shops wont touch that now though, so it might be a pain getting this accomplished, Most surely need a a new O2 at this stage the front - the one that adjusts light throttle cruise lambda; don't worry about the rear 02 sense, it's a conversion effectualness check only, but it will light up a MIL.
 
Check and see if it has a TSB too some of them have a update to reduce sensitivity.

also IIRC at least for the earlier models step one for this code is to clear it and see if it comes back.
 
My 05 civic gets that code after long highway trips sometimes. I just reset it with the torque app and it stays away for a while. I’ve been doing this for years.
 
+1 others; no immediate risk, could go forever with that condition (or plug up). I'll add a rec for a vigorous Italian tune up. Fully warm engine, run to redline in the first three gears, repeat as desired.
 
a small weld in cat is like $50 on ebay, mother nature will thank you. if you still have a problem use a minicat or a spacer.
 
A code P0420 means a worn out cat about 95% of the time, you could try an O2 spacer first as a work around.
 
That code is because the cat is not cleaning the emissions as well as it should. It does not mean that the cat is plugged or is going to fail suddenly. Usually this is a bad cat. But it can be caused by things like a vacuum leak or leaking injectors.
 
Great advice and things to think about, thank you all for your opinions and advice. In a stroke of luck (gonna go buy a lotto ticket!) the engine light went off on its own this morning.

Planning on keeping a close eye and ear on it, knowing there are some much cheaper alternatives to keep it going. Definitely looking at a 2016 moving forward, but I’m going to run this as far as reasonable first!
I find that when my Accord throws that code, if I drive it hard it stays away. Granted, then gas mileage sucks, so I've just lived with it coming and going for a while now.
 
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