'06 Buick LaCrosse -- opinions?

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Benzadmiral ,

Do not use KBB unless you 'know how to 'adjust ' for your ' right now - local' market conditions - its a 'guide' not an absolute .

This is why TMV at Edmunds tends to be lower - its trying to do the 'correcting' for you .

Its old data , but it probably hasn't changed that much if at all , - 90% of the time 90% of the KBB should be adjusted downward - on something like this 'typically' somewhere between 1200 - 3000 $ . I'd 'look' at both but without more info I'd use the TMV - its 'more likely' to be 'more accurate' and won't require as much 'correcting' on your part .




Everything is a "guide".Yep - see previous post - BA will have a less complex correction to make using TMV than KBB . The only absolute is the number on the sales contract that you sign your name onto. I disagree on this . The only 'absolutes' that I am sure of are death and taxes . You may feel differently . In the next category , 'almost sure' , I would put that this vehicle's price has a large sum that can end up in either BA's pocket or the Dealers .
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Problem is, when looking at it regionally, TMV only adjusts the prices on this car by $40. (Fourty dollars).And the point is - ie why is this a 'problem? ? 'Soft markets' tend to 'flatten out' esp. this time of year . Right now , the local market (La.) as well as the national market is soft , and worth noting , specifically , the midsize car market .

I spot checked the value on this car in 7 areas of the country. The variance from the lowest value (Texas) to the highest (Michigan) was a whopping $40. See above . In terms of large numbers over a long enough period of time , no surprise at all . Did you check KBB the same way ? Any of the others ? You need to do that if you even want to try and make this point - much less make it stick .

And why TMV values a salty 'rust belt' car higher than one from salt free Texas is a complete mystery to me. Short answer here , buyer preferences are different in the two areas . Yes , while it is "true' that 'saltbelt' used cars do 'tend' to run lower ( really more about year 3 + after the original new car price performance in both areas is considered) it is perfectly normal both in terms of new and used vehicles to have 'salt belt prices' on specific vehicles run substantially ahead of 'salt free' Southwestern markets , just as it is to have others run the same or less .
A 'local market' is made by buyers and sellers in that area . Keep in mind , the final 'corrections' can widen or narrow this difference , and that this is a dynamic situation . The guides lag . Overall , the dynamics here are headed down .


I'm sorry, but when these "adjustments" for "right now local market conditions" across the entire country are less than the price of a tank of gasoline, then those adjustments are really insignificant here.
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Bottom line is, you can shove any price guide that lists any number into a dealer's face, Nope , not if you value politeness , fairness , a 'more' pleasant buying experience and want to be successful .( You also may want their goodwill later ) . You can 'offer' a low price politely . but they are still not going to take any less for a car than whatever they feel is their bottom line. This bottom line is exactly what number ? And I can expect them to disclose this number forthrightly and immediately upon entry ? Should I pay for a dealer that bought a car high or got stuck as the market changed ? Plain and simple. It's a business, not a charity. Yep . Which is why the Dealer will typically post the highest possible Retail price on the window . More often than not , this will be KBB (Many times an old out of date one with a higher price ) . Also as a general rule , most people do not want to pay more than they have to for a used car . A reasonable strategy for the typical consumer here is to look up three or so price sources find the lowest one of the three ,( Yes Virginia , I do mean the 'correct' low wholesale price from the lowest source - adjust for 'local custom' as needed . ) offer that up and go from there - you will probably meet somewhere in the middle - if at all .







Could have you made this any more difficult to read, and more difficult yet to respond to??

Oh well, it was likely an intentional move on your behalf.

Not worth the time or the effort.

A guide is a guide, and it is only that.
 
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Oh, and the lack of an external trunk handle. I just know I'll scrape the paint opening and closing the trunk if I'm not careful. Maybe, if I can find a nice chromed handle, a good body shop could drill a couple of holes and install it?




I'm not sure I know what a trunk handle is.
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I just push the button on the key fob for opening the trunk and then close it buy lightly applying pressure to the top of the trunk lid.
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Should I use KBB's trade-in value of the Buick ($13K) to figure that was what the dealer paid?




Yes, $13,XXX seems to be a reasonable number to me, to determine what they likely have invested in the car. Just be sure to accurately value the car (options, condition, etc).



Unlikely. KBB, NADA, and Edmunds are pricing guides that are rarely used by dealerships.

GALVES is the pricing guide that dealerships use for selling their vehicles at auctions and often, for determining trade-in values as well. You need a subscription to obtain a vehicle value from GALVES. I know an independent car dealer, and I'll get him to run the numbers on this car for you tomorrow.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the help and interest in this topic -- I guess this really fascinates/touches a nerve with most car people!

I haven't signed any papers or given the green light to anything yet, but this is what they're offering:

Car price: $16,489 (down from $17,988)
Tax is 9% (yet another reason to move out of here)
Trade-in on the Benz: $4000 (up from their insulting first offer of $1500)

So, at 5.9% and with $3K of my cash tossed in, plus the usual title & license, I'm looking to finance about $11K, about $1K more than I'd planned. Or *only* $1K more, I guess. I might have to go 60 months on this one, and try to pay it off in 48-54.

They're dragging their feet about an interior trim piece I want replaced or repolished, and about those chrome trim pieces I mentioned, i.e., they wouldn't throw the trim into the price. They're supposed to let me know how much it would be, and I can decide if it's worth the additional outlay. Contrast this to the buying experience I got at the Lexus dealer 3 years ago. They seemed willing to do anything reasonable to make a customer happy: repainting a fender, de-scenting the interior, etc.

I'm not getting this vibe from the Buick dealer, and it makes the prospect of bringing home a newer and much nicer car less than fun. I don't expect them to toss the extras in for free -- the Lexus people figured the cost of what they did into their offer to me -- but these guys seem reluctant to even make an effort. Or maybe it's just the salesman?
 
A good salesman can make a big difference. My wife and I bought a new Terraza in June '05. I have nothing but positive things to say about how we were treated. The experience was totally painless.
 
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Should I use KBB's trade-in value of the Buick ($13K) to figure that was what the dealer paid?




Yes, $13,XXX seems to be a reasonable number to me, to determine what they likely have invested in the car. Just be sure to accurately value the car (options, condition, etc).



Unlikely. KBB, NADA, and Edmunds are pricing guides that are rarely used by dealerships.( Depends where you are ) .

GALVES is the pricing guide that dealerships use for selling their vehicles at auctions( Depends on the auctions 'used' in the 'local' area . There are whole sections of the country where Galves is not a player .) and often, for determining trade-in values as well. You need a subscription to obtain a vehicle value from GALVES. I know an independent car dealer, and I'll get him to run the numbers on this car for you tomorrow. ( You will need BA's location and the relevant Galves location information to even have a chance at an accurate number )





Critic ,
In the general case this is not true , as there are very differing 'preferences' in different parts of the country for which information providers are preferred and used .

In the specific case , it maybe correct or may not , - same with regards to KBB and the others - it 'depends' .

As an example of another dealer only system , Hearst Publication's 'Black Book' dominates completely in certain markets ( as they do Auctions - no surprise these things are related ) , - yet in others neither 'The Black Book' or Galves has any presence - because one or really more often , some other bundle of systems is preferred instead . NADA , KBB , The Red Book and the other one I always forget the name of all have market areas where they are used at the Dealer level .
In some areas one or two are typically used , max is usually around three - Auction Reports as opposed to 'value guides' from whoever are a separate information category .


What would be most useful here is to know which system or systems are used by the Dealers and 'Lenders' in Benzadmiral's location , and if so , just for Ships and Grims what those values were on this car back in March - while still always putting precedence on the relevant current market values - as I think we all would agree .

In the 5 - 7 markets where I'm somehow involved in helping somebody figure pricing on a used car , TMV has seemed able to keep up or stay reasonably close to the 'better' , 'trade only' systems when I've compared them .Its more consumer proofed .

Part of what matters in every market area is what the Dealers prefer to use , the other 1/2 is what the local 'banks' and Lenders do - its by no means necc. the same . As an example of how important this can be , In a small town , a long way from any major Auction , this will matter most .

The other piece is that regardless of which source or sources are used you need a feel for how to typically correct for 'that car' in 'that town' - the books are just a starting point .

So far , this 'sounds' high to me in more ways than one , but I don't know BA's location or local market conditions .
Legitimate , non rippoff pricing (either way) varies even more than wholesale pricing , again because of local market conditions .

I would think its also possible that part of the resistence here to changing up the vehicle and its trim is that they are 'high' in what they own this vehicle for ( a lot has changed since March ) , compared to what they would pay to replace it on their lot .

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G20ooh, I'd have to say that market stuff around here varies widely. The dealer is in an area that was pretty badly hit by Katrina, and even before the storm, I'd think they were not moving cars that fast. There's been an '04 Honda Accord with leather seats, nice condition, on their lot almost as long as the LaCrosse has. They want almost $17K for that, too.

Of course a lot of things, insanely, have gotten pricier here -- though you'd think that people with any sense would be long gone, and so the businesses left would be actively trying to *keep* customers, not alienate them.

They won't fax me the financial breakdown, or even tell me on the phone, so I'll know what my payment would be. They say I have to come in to the dealership -- something I've never been faced with before. I say, "What if I lived 50 miles from you?" They say, "It's Louisiana law."

I'm rapidly thinking this is not going to be a good relationship. Any dealer who, when you ask for something to be brought up to snuff -- a brake fluid change, say, or a wood trim piece -- shrugs and says, "It's a used car," is not somebody I want to go to for service in future.

It's a shame, since the car is excellent.
 
If you finance $11,000 for 4 years at 6%, your payment is about $259.00 per month. Extend that to 5 years at the same rate and your payment is about $213.00. I used the calculator here: http://www.bankrate.com/brm/auto-loan-calculator.asp

As for the dealer not wanting to fax you the buyer's order, they probably don't want you to shop their rate to your credit union or another dealer. Still, its something you should be shopping anyway. They want you back in the dealership to close the deal.

Have you run a Carfax on this thing yet? It would be a wise $15 spent if you did, unless the dealer will show you their copy (and you know they ran one...)

I agree about the wholesale valuations being regional. Galves is primarily focused on the NY/NJ area. The further you get away from that area the less accurate it is. The Black Book is about as nationally accurate as you can get but there are plenty of other "guides" used by dealers. The most accurate number is auction data but unless you have a dealer buddy or MMR access, you're stuck with TMV and all the other stuff on the web.

At this point my advice would be to make an out the door offer to the dealer. Frankly, at $16,500 I think they have plenty more room to move. My offer would be $11,000 OTD with the trim things fixed/added in exchange for your Benz and $3000 cash. That'll get their calculators smoking. If you want to start aggressively, tell them $10,000 OTD instead. Come ready to do the deal with the Benz and your checkbook. Tell them that you want to buy today and that tire kickin time is over. Every car salesman wants a "today buyer" so that needs to be you.


Good luck!
 
Bretfraz,

I know, I could handle either payment schedule. I just hate the idea of going back into debt for *five* years!

A competing dealer, about 30 miles outside town, has another 2006, the sportier CXS (which cost more new), for *less* money than the first guys are insisting on! And with the same warranty and fewer miles! I may just take a look this weekend. . . .

(My apologies that this thing has developed into an epic. But that's what car shopping is nowadays, even with Carfax and the internet to help us consumers out.)
 
Camu,

Believe me, fixing the Benz would be simpler. The tranny sticks at random times, which no one seems to have a 100% solution for; there is a vacuum leak somewhere, I'm guessing, that decreases the air flow out of the A/C vents when I accelerate; and a difficult-to-find rattle which may be related to the vacuum leak, and may be the sunroof. (One of the many nice things about Buicks is that they rarely foist a sunroof or moonroof on you.) Otherwise it's peppy, economical on gas, and fun to drive.

I guess I can live with all 3 problems for a while. And may have to.

New GM cars might be heavily rebated, but they're still too expensive for a cheap b*gger like me.
 
Well Benzadmiral , that Katrina thing and your last two posts might explain a few things - I can imagine under any number of scenarios none of that is helping them or you . They maybe doing the best they can , and then again they maybe more than a little 'weak' - don't want to judge - I'm not there .

If they are overallowing on the trade then maybe thats it , but with the numbers we have on this thread and some others it still seems a little off , - and I really don't like that line 'its just a used car' . Its kinda like you said earlier , they should just come with their numbers and information on that - its not what you really want to hear as per your post .

As to that 'you gotta come in' .....well if true no problem , if not , I'm done , I have a low tolerence for that kind of game playing so it depends on what is what .


FWIW ,I wouldn't necc. expect their prices to be 'low' , in fact I'd expect kinda the opposite , and I wouldn't mind paying a little more - if the basics are at least covered correctly . (For the right Dealership the right way I'll pay even more 'than a little more')

Anyway , and I don't want to sound anti this or anti that , but with what you got going there I'd probably want to take a look at the other one - hoping that it was certifiable and you know , compare the two in a sense - might help you pick - either way .
Before I hit the road , I'd try and make sure that the car is certified , and they have got a clean Carfax you can see .

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Should I use KBB's trade-in value of the Buick ($13K) to figure that was what the dealer paid?




Yes, $13,XXX seems to be a reasonable number to me, to determine what they likely have invested in the car. Just be sure to accurately value the car (options, condition, etc).



Unlikely. KBB, NADA, and Edmunds are pricing guides that are rarely used by dealerships.( Depends where you are ) .

GALVES is the pricing guide that dealerships use for selling their vehicles at auctions( Depends on the auctions 'used' in the 'local' area . There are whole sections of the country where Galves is not a player .) and often, for determining trade-in values as well. You need a subscription to obtain a vehicle value from GALVES. I know an independent car dealer, and I'll get him to run the numbers on this car for you tomorrow. ( You will need BA's location and the relevant Galves location information to even have a chance at an accurate number )





Critic ,
In the general case this is not true , as there are very differing 'preferences' in different parts of the country for which information providers are preferred and used .

In the specific case , it maybe correct or may not , - same with regards to KBB and the others - it 'depends' .

As an example of another dealer only system , Hearst Publication's 'Black Book' dominates completely in certain markets ( as they do Auctions - no surprise these things are related ) , - yet in others neither 'The Black Book' or Galves has any presence - because one or really more often , some other bundle of systems is preferred instead . NADA , KBB , The Red Book and the other one I always forget the name of all have market areas where they are used at the Dealer level .
In some areas one or two are typically used , max is usually around three - Auction Reports as opposed to 'value guides' from whoever are a separate information category .


What would be most useful here is to know which system or systems are used by the Dealers and 'Lenders' in Benzadmiral's location , and if so , just for Ships and Grims what those values were on this car back in March - while still always putting precedence on the relevant current market values - as I think we all would agree .

In the 5 - 7 markets where I'm somehow involved in helping somebody figure pricing on a used car , TMV has seemed able to keep up or stay reasonably close to the 'better' , 'trade only' systems when I've compared them .Its more consumer proofed .

Part of what matters in every market area is what the Dealers prefer to use , the other 1/2 is what the local 'banks' and Lenders do - its by no means necc. the same . As an example of how important this can be , In a small town , a long way from any major Auction , this will matter most .

The other piece is that regardless of which source or sources are used you need a feel for how to typically correct for 'that car' in 'that town' - the books are just a starting point .

So far , this 'sounds' high to me in more ways than one , but I don't know BA's location or local market conditions .
Legitimate , non rippoff pricing (either way) varies even more than wholesale pricing , again because of local market conditions .

I would think its also possible that part of the resistence here to changing up the vehicle and its trim is that they are 'high' in what they own this vehicle for ( a lot has changed since March ) , compared to what they would pay to replace it on their lot .

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Thanks, I stand correct. Great to know, I guess that I had previously been misinformed.
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Have you checked Carmax? They do have a selection of LaCrosses that are transferable.
 
I ran the numbers through Kelly Blue Book for the Private Party Value using my zip code at 34,000 miles. It came out to $15,900 for a LaCrosse in excellent condition.

I wouldn't have the dealer do those trim upgrades because they could very well screw it up and make it look worse.
 
Merkava,

The dealer swears there is no such part as those trim pieces in the GM database. They steered me to a local trim & accessories shop, who also have no idea what I mean. I think ol' sneaky GM put one-of-a-kind trim on the cars used in the brochures, and then buyers find they can't actually buy one exactly like those . . . and GM can't figure out why people are buying imports instead.

I may drive out to the suburban dealer and try out this CXS (which has exactly the same certification and warranty). Perhaps those people are more willing to deal, and to treat a customer in a way that will make him want to come back. (Like the Lexus dealer, who are tempting me with a '99 LS400.) In the meantime, my MB still runs well, so I can take my time.

Thanks for all the input. You guys are terrific!
 
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I think ol' sneaky GM put one-of-a-kind trim on the cars used in the brochures, and then buyers find they can't actually buy one exactly like those . . . and GM can't figure out why people are buying imports instead.



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The 3.8 is an engine of great repute.
I have read lots of good things about the car in general.
Price? I'd offer 14k for this thing. If they say anything other than "okay", start walking. They'll catch up to you to say "okay" before you get very far.
What you have working for you is that almost anything GM is heavily discounted at actual retail, and it's really hard to sell a used car for close to the price of a new one. Sticker on this car is a fantasy.
If you want my real opinion, take your money to a Honda store. A new '07 Accord is a great deal closer to a Mercedes than anything GM can offer you, and will come with a nice (for Honda) discount as well. Also, since Honda dealers do a great deal more average volume than do GM dealers, the staff are less likely to try to get the last $ out of you.
 
Because a hard-riding Accord with very uncomfortable seats which is priced well above that of a used Buick is clearly what he is in the market for. A Honda is no where near the level of luxury of a Mercedes. It might last a long time, but as far as luxury and comfort are concerned, dream on.
 
I've actually owned four Benzes and six Hondas, two of which are Accords. The Accord is a great deal closer to a small Mercedes than you might think. Also, a Honda, like a Benz, has resale value exceeding that of the deposit on a pop bottle, something not always true of GM products.
 
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