'06 Buick LaCrosse -- opinions?
- Thread starter Benzadmiral
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Mrsilv04, where can I find out the wholesale price of these cars?
I've checked Edmunds and Kelley Blue Book for both my current car and this Buick, and they give wildly different numbers (Edmunds = what I'm willing to pay, KBB = what the dealer is pricing the Buick at). Should I use KBB's trade-in value of the Buick ($13K) to figure that was what the dealer paid?
I've checked Edmunds and Kelley Blue Book for both my current car and this Buick, and they give wildly different numbers (Edmunds = what I'm willing to pay, KBB = what the dealer is pricing the Buick at). Should I use KBB's trade-in value of the Buick ($13K) to figure that was what the dealer paid?
This dealership, it has several advantages: It's been around a long time (originally an Olds shop), the people seem low-pressure, I pass the lot every morning and evening on my commute, and they say they can give me a ride to and from work while my car is in for service.
And it's the sales manager himself I'm dealing with, so I'd hope there'd be none of this running back and forth "to see if my manager approves this price."
Sure, a brand-new '07 would be nice, but I think that'd be out of my range . . . unless a miracle happens. And none of the new '07s on their lot is what I want in color or setup; they'd have to find me one. Well, I'll keep my mind open!
And it's the sales manager himself I'm dealing with, so I'd hope there'd be none of this running back and forth "to see if my manager approves this price."
Sure, a brand-new '07 would be nice, but I think that'd be out of my range . . . unless a miracle happens. And none of the new '07s on their lot is what I want in color or setup; they'd have to find me one. Well, I'll keep my mind open!
Yes, $13,XXX seems to be a reasonable number to me, to determine what they likely have invested in the car. Just be sure to accurately value the car (options, condition, etc).
You mentioned that they are asking $17,988 for it. That's within a few hundred of the KBB "retail" value for that car. So, their asking price is close to book as well.
So, I assume that you are planning on trading the Benz in? When I bought my Silverado, it was a bit easier, since there wasn't a trade in involved. My folks live on a busy highway, and all that I have to do to sell a vehicle is to clean it up, write a reasonable price across the windshield, and park it in their front yard. Usually gone within a week.
Yes, I kind of need to trade. It'll help with the down payment, and I just don't have the time or energy to fool with selling it privately. (If I had another, less valuable car to trade, though, I'd do that and hawk the C230 myself, so I could put the extra cash either toward the newer car's loan, or just into the bank.)
The Buick dealer does take other makes, even premium ones, in trade or at auction. Next to the LaCrosse they have an '01 E320 Benz, same color combo as my C, for under $16K. But I'm a bit weary after 10 years of rather high-maintenance cars. Going back to a high-quality GM (I had Oldsmobiles for several years) will be sort of relaxing.
The Buick dealer does take other makes, even premium ones, in trade or at auction. Next to the LaCrosse they have an '01 E320 Benz, same color combo as my C, for under $16K. But I'm a bit weary after 10 years of rather high-maintenance cars. Going back to a high-quality GM (I had Oldsmobiles for several years) will be sort of relaxing.
I didn't have time to read the entire thread, but FWIW GM has a 5-100K warranty on GM certified used cars. I bought a 2004 Impala with 11k miles on it as a lease return. The dealer told me they had just started the warranty on the certified cars (I bought the car around the first part of March). The warranty starts from the time the car was first titled and the warranty doesn't cost extra. You can negotiate the price of the car so don't worry about what they-re asking. My dealer wanted 15.5k for my Impala and I got it for 13.5k. In order to get the GM warranty you have to buy the car at a GM dealer.
Benzadmiral ,
Do not use KBB unless you 'know how to 'adjust ' for your ' right now - local' market conditions - its a 'guide' not an absolute .
This is why TMV at Edmunds tends to be lower - its trying to do the 'correcting' for you .
Its old data , but it probably hasn't changed that much if at all , - 90% of the time 90% of the KBB should be adjusted downward - on something like this 'typically' somewhere between 1200 - 3000 $ . I'd 'look' at both but without more info I'd use the TMV - its 'more likely' to be 'more accurate' and won't require as much 'correcting' on your part .
Do not use KBB unless you 'know how to 'adjust ' for your ' right now - local' market conditions - its a 'guide' not an absolute .
This is why TMV at Edmunds tends to be lower - its trying to do the 'correcting' for you .
Its old data , but it probably hasn't changed that much if at all , - 90% of the time 90% of the KBB should be adjusted downward - on something like this 'typically' somewhere between 1200 - 3000 $ . I'd 'look' at both but without more info I'd use the TMV - its 'more likely' to be 'more accurate' and won't require as much 'correcting' on your part .
G20, you could get the 3.6 or the 3.8. The 3.6 had better power numbers but dad was not sold on the "new" design and liked the reputation of the 3.8. Overall it seems to have worked well for them.
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Are you sure that isn't a 3.6L ? I 'think' thats been the only way they come .
The 3.8l is the base engine.
I find that the NADA guide is typically quite accurate.
My opinion?
The Buick LaCrosse is AWESOME !!
The 3.8L V6 may be the base engine BUT, it's the top engine in my expert opinion.
The 3.6L V6 is duel overhead cam with variable valve timing; who needs that? That just adds unnecessary complexity. On top of that, it's an all aluminium engine. I'm wondering if it's rebuildable; some of those all aluminium engines are not rebuildable.
The Buick 3.8L V6 is an all iron block and heads which makes it completely rebuildable. And. . . it has ROLLER LIFTERS AND ROCKERS !
I just flat out LOVE roller lifters and rockers.
The Buick LaCrosse is AWESOME !!
The 3.8L V6 may be the base engine BUT, it's the top engine in my expert opinion.
The 3.6L V6 is duel overhead cam with variable valve timing; who needs that? That just adds unnecessary complexity. On top of that, it's an all aluminium engine. I'm wondering if it's rebuildable; some of those all aluminium engines are not rebuildable.
The Buick 3.8L V6 is an all iron block and heads which makes it completely rebuildable. And. . . it has ROLLER LIFTERS AND ROCKERS !
You might think you're being sarcastic, but now you're speaking my language. To ---- with all of the fancy ----!
Up close and personal, as they say . . .
The Buick, I agree, is awesome. The doors shut as solidly as those on my Benz, and the trunk shuts more solidly than the '07 C-Class I had as a rental this year; a $35K car, and the trunk sounded tinny.
The LaCrosse rides beautifully over nasty road patches (and believe me, we have plenty of those here in The Swamp). It is a bit floaty over bigger bumps, very different from either of my Benzes. Would firmer shocks help with that, or would I have to firm up the springs too (in which case, I know, I should just go for the sportier model with the 3.6 engine)? But the A/C cooled the car off quickly in 97 deg. heat yesterday, and the interior is truly quiet, no squeaks or rattles. No sunroof, so (to me) that's one less thing to worry about. The car moves out quietly also, and the steering is responsive.
My friend Miss Linda likes the car's color, the deep sapphire blue, and (though she won't admit it) the passenger A/C controls -- she's always cold in my cars. Her words sum it up, though, after we drove on a side boulevard that makes me grind my teeth in the Benz: "The Buick is so serene."
The only cons, really, are the location of the gas pedal -- I can't seem to get my foot on it easily -- and that the car seems to require a bit of foot punch to move out smartly from a standstill. Not a lag or stumble, I just have to put my foot into it more than I'm used to. Is this normal?
Oh, and the lack of an external trunk handle. I just know I'll scrape the paint opening and closing the trunk if I'm not careful. Maybe, if I can find a nice chromed handle, a good body shop could drill a couple of holes and install it?
I'll ask about the 5 yr./100K warranty when I go back this afternoon. I'm willing to deal, if they are!
The Buick, I agree, is awesome. The doors shut as solidly as those on my Benz, and the trunk shuts more solidly than the '07 C-Class I had as a rental this year; a $35K car, and the trunk sounded tinny.
The LaCrosse rides beautifully over nasty road patches (and believe me, we have plenty of those here in The Swamp). It is a bit floaty over bigger bumps, very different from either of my Benzes. Would firmer shocks help with that, or would I have to firm up the springs too (in which case, I know, I should just go for the sportier model with the 3.6 engine)? But the A/C cooled the car off quickly in 97 deg. heat yesterday, and the interior is truly quiet, no squeaks or rattles. No sunroof, so (to me) that's one less thing to worry about. The car moves out quietly also, and the steering is responsive.
My friend Miss Linda likes the car's color, the deep sapphire blue, and (though she won't admit it) the passenger A/C controls -- she's always cold in my cars. Her words sum it up, though, after we drove on a side boulevard that makes me grind my teeth in the Benz: "The Buick is so serene."
The only cons, really, are the location of the gas pedal -- I can't seem to get my foot on it easily -- and that the car seems to require a bit of foot punch to move out smartly from a standstill. Not a lag or stumble, I just have to put my foot into it more than I'm used to. Is this normal?
Oh, and the lack of an external trunk handle. I just know I'll scrape the paint opening and closing the trunk if I'm not careful. Maybe, if I can find a nice chromed handle, a good body shop could drill a couple of holes and install it?
I'll ask about the 5 yr./100K warranty when I go back this afternoon. I'm willing to deal, if they are!
By the way, I perused the manual, which amid all the safety warnings has maintenance and service info.
The LaCrosse 3.8 takes 4.5 qts. of 5W-30 oil, and GM allows that if you live in very cold conditions you can use 0W-30. They specifically tell you not to use 10W-40 or 20W-50. No intervals for oil changes given; you're supposed to use the Oil Life Monitor, or change once a year.
No mention of a brake fluid change. No intervals for air filter or cabin filter. And the auto transaxle fluid (if I'm reading the chart right) is apparently supposed to last 100K!
Gee, what am I going to fiddle with on this car??!!
The LaCrosse 3.8 takes 4.5 qts. of 5W-30 oil, and GM allows that if you live in very cold conditions you can use 0W-30. They specifically tell you not to use 10W-40 or 20W-50. No intervals for oil changes given; you're supposed to use the Oil Life Monitor, or change once a year.
No mention of a brake fluid change. No intervals for air filter or cabin filter. And the auto transaxle fluid (if I'm reading the chart right) is apparently supposed to last 100K!
Gee, what am I going to fiddle with on this car??!!
Everything is a "guide". The only absolute is the number on the sales contract that you sign your name onto.
Problem is, when looking at it regionally, TMV only adjusts the prices on this car by $40. (Fourty dollars).
I spot checked the value on this car in 7 areas of the country. The variance from the lowest value (Texas) to the highest (Michigan) was a whopping $40.
And why TMV values a salty 'rust belt' car higher than one from salt free Texas is a complete mystery to me.
I'm sorry, but when these "adjustments" for "right now local market conditions" across the entire country are less than the price of a tank of gasoline, then those adjustments are really insignificant here.
Bottom line is, you can shove any price guide that lists any number into a dealer's face, but they are still not going to take any less for a car than whatever they feel is their bottom line. Plain and simple. It's a business, not a charity.
True enough about the pricing. I plan to push the fact that this car has been on their lot since March -- the "Certified Inspection" paperwork in the glove box is dated then. I'm sure they are really motivated to move it.
I do wonder why no one has grabbed it. The relatively high miles? Or is it that most Buick buyers are turned off by a sapphire blue car?
I do wonder why no one has grabbed it. The relatively high miles? Or is it that most Buick buyers are turned off by a sapphire blue car?
The miles are definity a factor. Have you found out any more about the history of the car (was it a rental?)
However, if they'll get it in on the 5/100 program, that's a bonus for sure.
The color? Possibly a factor. Up here, Buicks come in three colors. White, Silver, and that awful beige color. That's it. That's what the market (mostly the AARP crowd... that includes my parents) demands, and that what the dealers order. There are no blue, black, or burgandy Buicks in this area.
Case in point: My folks' last two Buicks have been Silver.
However, if they'll get it in on the 5/100 program, that's a bonus for sure.
The color? Possibly a factor. Up here, Buicks come in three colors. White, Silver, and that awful beige color. That's it. That's what the market (mostly the AARP crowd... that includes my parents) demands, and that what the dealers order. There are no blue, black, or burgandy Buicks in this area.
Case in point: My folks' last two Buicks have been Silver.
It's always a wise idea to match the struts and springs. A knowledgable shop should be able to swap you out with something a bit firmer. The suspension on the Lacrosse, Grand Prix, Monte Carlo and Impala should be largely interchangable, since they're all W-body platforms. Maybe something designed more for a Grand Prix would be to your liking.
That's the way Buicks should be!
As for the AC, dual zone controls are a GREAT feature. My wife and I take advantage of that all the time. Personally, I don't like sunroofs. Being taller, my head tends to rub on the ceiling and they make the car more prone to rattles and squeaks.
Having driven several Benzes, I know what you mean WRT the gas pedal position. You'll get used to it soon enough. The same goes for the throttle response. GM throttles tend to have a much more gradual tip in than most others. In other words, you typically have to push further to get the same amount of power, but I find that it gives you more control when you're in heavy traffic that's not moving fast. The rest of the time, just give it a good stab and you'll be fine.
There should be one on the inside. Just give it a good pull so you get some momentum going and the trunk should shut solidly. My '00 Monte Carlo has a pull handle inside. After 7 years of pulling, it's still in 1 piece (knock on wood).
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Everything is a "guide".Yep - see previous post - BA will have a less complex correction to make using TMV than KBB . The only absolute is the number on the sales contract that you sign your name onto. I disagree on this . The only 'absolutes' that I am sure of are death and taxes . You may feel differently . In the next category , 'almost sure' , I would put that this vehicle's price has a large sum that can end up in either BA's pocket or the Dealers .
Problem is, when looking at it regionally, TMV only adjusts the prices on this car by $40. (Fourty dollars).And the point is - ie why is this a 'problem? ? 'Soft markets' tend to 'flatten out' esp. this time of year . Right now , the local market (La.) as well as the national market is soft , and worth noting , specifically , the midsize car market .
I spot checked the value on this car in 7 areas of the country. The variance from the lowest value (Texas) to the highest (Michigan) was a whopping $40. See above . In terms of large numbers over a long enough period of time , no surprise at all . Did you check KBB the same way ? Any of the others ? You need to do that if you even want to try and make this point - much less make it stick .
And why TMV values a salty 'rust belt' car higher than one from salt free Texas is a complete mystery to me. Short answer here , buyer preferences are different in the two areas . Yes , while it is "true' that 'saltbelt' used cars do 'tend' to run lower ( really more about year 3 + after the original new car price performance in both areas is considered) it is perfectly normal both in terms of new and used vehicles to have 'salt belt prices' on specific vehicles run substantially ahead of 'salt free' Southwestern markets , just as it is to have others run the same or less .
A 'local market' is made by buyers and sellers in that area . Keep in mind , the final 'corrections' can widen or narrow this difference , and that this is a dynamic situation . The guides lag . Overall , the dynamics here are headed down .
I'm sorry, but when these "adjustments" for "right now local market conditions" across the entire country are less than the price of a tank of gasoline, then those adjustments are really insignificant here.
Bottom line is, you can shove any price guide that lists any number into a dealer's face, Nope , not if you value politeness , fairness , a 'more' pleasant buying experience and want to be successful .( You also may want their goodwill later ) . You can 'offer' a low price politely . but they are still not going to take any less for a car than whatever they feel is their bottom line. This bottom line is exactly what number ? And I can expect them to disclose this number forthrightly and immediately upon entry ? Should I pay for a dealer that bought a car high or got stuck as the market changed ? Plain and simple. It's a business, not a charity. Yep . Which is why the Dealer will typically post the highest possible Retail price on the window . More often than not , this will be KBB (Many times an old out of date one with a higher price ) . Also as a general rule , most people do not want to pay more than they have to for a used car . A reasonable strategy for the typical consumer here is to look up three or so price sources find the lowest one of the three ,( Yes Virginia , I do mean the 'correct' low wholesale price from the lowest source - adjust for 'local custom' as needed . ) offer that up and go from there - you will probably meet somewhere in the middle - if at all .
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There are many possibilities , but assuming the best , they ended up however it happened , either with no offers , or none that they would take , - which means its likely they are in it for too much now .
Here is some stuff that might help a little indirectly .
Currently , there is a relatively lowgrade (compared to the competition ) national incentive on these cars . ( this can vary a bit region to region )
2008/1000$ . 2007/1500$ . 2006 (new) 2000/2500$ . There are optional financing substitutes available .
Certification does cost them money - I'm not sure how much .
Personnally , I would ask them why they have had the car so long , and I would ask to see their copy of the Carfax or = .
I'm not sure , but I think the '08s came out around the end of April 07 .
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