05 Corolla, 1.8l Castrol GTX 5w-30 SM 5.8k
- Thread starter Bill in Utah
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I've bought the following in the last 2 months.
All of the PP @ 99 cents a quart.
The one case of Havoline there for 79 cents a quart. Will be picking up another this week.
Sadly, ALL of the chevron seen there was bought at 49 cents a quart and those deals are long gone.
The lowest for me has been around 30-50 quarts. When I was just changing for my 3 cars (when I had that many) and the sales were drying up (like now) I got that low.
I just have a hard time paying full retail (paying $2-3 a quart for oil for converntional or paying even more for syn. (though I do buy syn IF the price is right or I NEED it)
I've done the data for me and know what works in the end. Our 1986 jetta has passed 310k and still going well. (Though it did break a part in the last week and had to be towed...)
Second clutch cable!
(I guess 2 in 21 years is ok..)
Take care, bill
All of the PP @ 99 cents a quart.
The one case of Havoline there for 79 cents a quart. Will be picking up another this week.
Sadly, ALL of the chevron seen there was bought at 49 cents a quart and those deals are long gone.
The lowest for me has been around 30-50 quarts. When I was just changing for my 3 cars (when I had that many) and the sales were drying up (like now) I got that low.
I just have a hard time paying full retail (paying $2-3 a quart for oil for converntional or paying even more for syn. (though I do buy syn IF the price is right or I NEED it)
I've done the data for me and know what works in the end. Our 1986 jetta has passed 310k and still going well. (Though it did break a part in the last week and had to be towed...)
Second clutch cable!
Take care, bill
Bill,
I think for 79 cents, that DS Havoline is a heck of a steal, considering it a new product, which is usually more expensive than an older one. I'd pick up a few cases at that price.
I think in general we can all agree that oil will continue to slowly rise in price from now on, it is unlikely the price will plummt like it did in 1998 or so. Just too much demand. So anything less than a dollar a quart US is a great price, and will look like a bargain in a few years. Also, motor oil will get more expensive when the new 'SN' API oils are out, as to meet that spec, there will have to be more syn content.
Consider yourself lucky - in Canada, less than $2.00/litre for an oil is a great deal, most are closer to $3.50 - $4.00 full retail. I think right now, the best regualar retail price on oil is Formula Shell by the case at Costco, it works out to about $1.80/litre ($20/case of 12).
I think for 79 cents, that DS Havoline is a heck of a steal, considering it a new product, which is usually more expensive than an older one. I'd pick up a few cases at that price.
I think in general we can all agree that oil will continue to slowly rise in price from now on, it is unlikely the price will plummt like it did in 1998 or so. Just too much demand. So anything less than a dollar a quart US is a great price, and will look like a bargain in a few years. Also, motor oil will get more expensive when the new 'SN' API oils are out, as to meet that spec, there will have to be more syn content.
Consider yourself lucky - in Canada, less than $2.00/litre for an oil is a great deal, most are closer to $3.50 - $4.00 full retail. I think right now, the best regualar retail price on oil is Formula Shell by the case at Costco, it works out to about $1.80/litre ($20/case of 12).
I can see why you prefer 5k ocis. If you changed less often you wouldn't be able to fit the car in the garage! If you ran the PP out to 10k, it would be like getting it for 49.5 cents per quart (compared to dino at 5k). Just a thought, I know you love saving money.
Dennis
Dennis
Yes, but remember that I was into a warrenty until 60k passed by.
5k ocis or 6mo.
With my UOAs, I'll stick to the 5k.
Take care, bill
5k ocis or 6mo.
With my UOAs, I'll stick to the 5k.
Take care, bill
This is the only thread I could find about Castrol GTX through the search feature. Is Castrol GTX a good conventional oil? I know these test results were great. I just can't figure out if the vehicles driving conditions were truly enough to test the oil or not. Highway drive = easy... but this was highway driving at 3000 RPM.. that's different.. yet, it is a new Corolla 1.8L, meant to cruise and save gas at that RPM... but 3000RPM is 3000RPM. Also, all in very cold weather... both positive and negative effects again, lol.
I want to know because I use Castrol GTX in all our cars that have been 'raised' using conventional. It has gotten a 1991 Dodge Stealth 3.0 V6 DOHC 24-valve to 190,000 miles on the motor (I would stll drive it any distance with no worries). I run it in my 94 Thunderbird LX with the 4.6 OHC V8 (motor runs so smoothly/no ticking period). '99 Grand Am with 3.4 V6 (still running great at 140,000 miles, but it does have a little valve chatter now and then), '00 LeSabre with 3.8 V6 (low mileage/55k miles, but runs absolutely quiet and at idle/driving speeds the oil pressure is 40/63psi. All cars run GTX 10w-30. There's an '00 LS1 T/A , but Mobil 1 10w-30 goes in it. It has great oil pressure, too, but anywys.. Any known problems about Castrol GTX? I like it, have seen no problems with it, but there's one guy that keeps telling me that it is udder #@$%!. What are the facts?
I want to know because I use Castrol GTX in all our cars that have been 'raised' using conventional. It has gotten a 1991 Dodge Stealth 3.0 V6 DOHC 24-valve to 190,000 miles on the motor (I would stll drive it any distance with no worries). I run it in my 94 Thunderbird LX with the 4.6 OHC V8 (motor runs so smoothly/no ticking period). '99 Grand Am with 3.4 V6 (still running great at 140,000 miles, but it does have a little valve chatter now and then), '00 LeSabre with 3.8 V6 (low mileage/55k miles, but runs absolutely quiet and at idle/driving speeds the oil pressure is 40/63psi. All cars run GTX 10w-30. There's an '00 LS1 T/A , but Mobil 1 10w-30 goes in it. It has great oil pressure, too, but anywys.. Any known problems about Castrol GTX? I like it, have seen no problems with it, but there's one guy that keeps telling me that it is udder #@$%!. What are the facts?
Remember that this engine has a timing chain. Thats hard on a oil. We have seen that in UOAs.
Also, cold starts.
So, everything you posted SHOWS that GTX is perfoming excellent but ONE guy says GTX is garbage....
I think you know WHAT to believe and WHO to ignore.
I like GTX and ran the UOA to show that its a excellent oil. My GTX stash is gone (along with all other Castrol products) and now I'm down to my last 2-3 Pennzoil products.
I'll then go and use my Chevron and Havoline up. I'll have a UOA with the Pennzoil 5w-30 conventional in the heat soon and then Chevron, havoline after that.
I decided not to get a UOA of the Supertech syn I just drained after 6k since I'd not run it again.
As I've said before. I see no need to spend $$$ for oil when 99% of the oil is excellent. Just change it and get on with it.
Others here will disagree. Oh well..
Take care, Bill
If I had to stick to one conventional oil, I would stay with Pennzoil.
Even though I've had 310k+ motor on Valvoline and Havoline, many other engines pass 200k on other brands, I like Pennzoil. I have never had a bad UOA with Pennzoil, its avail everywhere.
I've run hundreds of thousands of miles using Pennzoil and never a single hickup.
(I've run hundreds of thousands of miles using Castrol, Halvoline, Valvoline and QS with never a hickup)
So, bottom line is it does not matter.
So I don't stick with a brand.
I buy whats on sale and stock up. Then use it and drive away.
Take care, Bill
Even though I've had 310k+ motor on Valvoline and Havoline, many other engines pass 200k on other brands, I like Pennzoil. I have never had a bad UOA with Pennzoil, its avail everywhere.
I've run hundreds of thousands of miles using Pennzoil and never a single hickup.
(I've run hundreds of thousands of miles using Castrol, Halvoline, Valvoline and QS with never a hickup)
So, bottom line is it does not matter.
So I don't stick with a brand.
I buy whats on sale and stock up. Then use it and drive away.
Take care, Bill
Patman
Staff member
I'm sorry to hear you didn't take a sample, I was looking forward to that UOA, as I'm sure others on here were as well.
Quote:
I'm sorry to hear you didn't take a sample, I was looking forward to that UOA, as I'm sure others on here were as well.
Sorry Pat.
With any conventional oil UOA and "cheap" syn like supertech, if you have a excellent UOA its because;
You drive easy.
Most of your miles is highway.
Your engine is easy on oil.
The lab that did the UOA is screwed up.
Its conventional oil so its still sludging and not protecting no matter what a UOA says.
You can't trust a $20 UOA and so on.
(of course, if you run Mobil 1 or something else and it does the same or a little worst in the UOA, its the best oil in the planet...)
I've got 5 more UOAs and will run them here and there with the Toyota and Subaru. And I'll be posting them.
Sorry about the missing of the Supertech Syn UOA.. It would have been interesting.
Your one of the best guys on this board. You atleast have a open mind.
Wish others did...
Take care, Bill
Bill - I always respect and look forward to your posts and contributions on this board. If anything, i've found your posts to be the most informative, unbiased and thoughtful here. Keep it up
Patman
Staff member
You have helped a lot in that regard! I used to be a "synthetic only" kind of guy, but now after seeing not only your UOAs, but your mileage figures on the cars you own, I realize that not every situation calls for synthetic. In fact, most cars truly do not need it at all.
Agreed, your UOAs convinced me too Bill. I was just about to renew my yearly PC account with Amsoil and order a whole bunch of XLM and EAO oil filters... can someone say 'blow a bunch of cash'
After reading this UOA, and several others on dino oil, I decided not to renew and hit up my local Canadian Tire, Walmart, Costco, etc, for the latest deals.
I'm in Canada and follow the severe schedule, hence the 5k mile oci's. I also do 50-60% city driving with most 90% of my city driving being trips less then 10 miles. So I think shorter oci's is the way to go, so I'm going to follow the severe service schedule to a 'T'.
I just drained XLM that ran for 6k and replaced it with GTX and a Wix filter. I swear the engine is quieter now, and my wife said the same without any probing questions from me (like I normally do).
I own a 2006 crv, with the infamous Honda 2.4L, so I'm confident dino will do just fine in this engine.
I really should have done a UOA on the last dump and compared it to a future one. Would of been nice to have xlm/eao side by side with gtx/wix for comparisons. I bet they would have been similar for 1/3 the cost
I'm heading to CO this summer.. nice 4k mile round trip and will be on the lookout for those crazy US deals y'all get on oil
After reading this UOA, and several others on dino oil, I decided not to renew and hit up my local Canadian Tire, Walmart, Costco, etc, for the latest deals.
I'm in Canada and follow the severe schedule, hence the 5k mile oci's. I also do 50-60% city driving with most 90% of my city driving being trips less then 10 miles. So I think shorter oci's is the way to go, so I'm going to follow the severe service schedule to a 'T'.
I just drained XLM that ran for 6k and replaced it with GTX and a Wix filter. I swear the engine is quieter now, and my wife said the same without any probing questions from me (like I normally do).
I own a 2006 crv, with the infamous Honda 2.4L, so I'm confident dino will do just fine in this engine.
I really should have done a UOA on the last dump and compared it to a future one. Would of been nice to have xlm/eao side by side with gtx/wix for comparisons. I bet they would have been similar for 1/3 the cost
I'm heading to CO this summer.. nice 4k mile round trip and will be on the lookout for those crazy US deals y'all get on oil
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BillinUtah a certified "oil mythbuster"
I don't know about that, but I do want to show what millions are doing out there and getting many miles down the road.
There is a lab that I deal with at work and they use Toyota Corolla and most of them are in the high 200s or low 300s. They are driven hard and get little maintanence.
They are still going well (though they were told this is the last year for their cars, next year new cars and its between Cobolt, Focus, Corolla or Excel) and they will retire these cars.
I'm trying to see IF I could pick one up cheap and continue driving it and taking my 05 to daughter duty.
I think it would be fun to try to take one to 500k.
I'm hopeing I could score one for $1-2k...
Thanks for the kind words.
bill
Bill, the Chevron sheared to SAE20, so this is a very good Chev Supreme 5w20 report.
Fuel dilute is computed using our own calculations from the raw data at 0.8%,add deposits levels indicated in the body of the result and insolubles levels at 0.3% (too high for this engine on mostly open road for 5800 miles) meaning you are wasting fuel. Should have recorded 45 MPG.
Driving without correcting for these issues over time will wear the valve guides,engine and build deposits.
Who said Chevron formulations have a weak add pack ????
Terry
Fuel dilute is computed using our own calculations from the raw data at 0.8%,add deposits levels indicated in the body of the result and insolubles levels at 0.3% (too high for this engine on mostly open road for 5800 miles) meaning you are wasting fuel. Should have recorded 45 MPG.
Driving without correcting for these issues over time will wear the valve guides,engine and build deposits.
Who said Chevron formulations have a weak add pack ????
Terry
In addition to what Terry said, I don't even look at it as a comparison between synthetic vs. conventional. I just look at them all as either good or average.
What is synthetic? What about blends of Grp II/III? Or III/IV/V or Grp V?
Most GF-4/SM oils are all or mostly grp III? So Bill you are running synthetic.
Quote:
Bill, the Chevron sheared to SAE20, so this is a very good Chev Supreme 5w20 report.
Fuel dilute is computed using our own calculations from the raw data at 0.8%,add deposits levels indicated in the body of the result and insolubles levels at 0.3% (too high for this engine on mostly open road for 5800 miles) meaning you are wasting fuel. Should have recorded 45 MPG.
Driving without correcting for these issues over time will wear the valve guides,engine and build deposits.
Who said Chevron formulations have a weak add pack ????
Terry
Thanks Terry for the imput.
I ran Castrol GTX 5w-30. It was in the winter so fuel would be higher.
Since its not Chevron would the rest of the data be wrong?
Thanks again, Bill
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