300 quarts!
05 Corolla, 1.8l Castrol GTX 5w-30 SM 5.8k
- Thread starter Bill in Utah
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Looks good Bill but then again it looks similar to mine so10 K behind you and closing fast
Goose
Goose, Are you staying with the Trix for now?
Yeah, your getting up there too. Luckly for us we own cars that can last!
To tell you the truth, I was expecting the TBN to be around in the low 2s or high ones since the 5800 miles and so much operation in the cold..
4.4 is really great!
Take care, Bill
Yep....did a bunch of math in my head and for the miles I put on the car it just didn't make sense to trade now. I just have to have the belt tensioner looked at and if that can be fixed I'll be a happy camper
4.4 is up there...I'll have a UOA on the "old" Pennz Plat in about a month and I don't think the TBN will be anywhere near that!
Goose
I think Bill drives his vehicles very very gently, and as I recall, his driving usually involves a significant amount of highway time. I think that partially explains his usual excellent UOA's.
Oil looked excellent. Dark honey color.
Excellent! I always look towards your feedback and UOAs on the 1ZZFE motor.
I think keeping the car is a good move. You KNOW what you have and when your putting on miles, it nice to know what your driving.
I don't beat the car but I can tell you that it is driven.
Just going down the freeway is 3000 rpm at normal speeds.
Also take into account that the temps were below freezing for almost a month here. Add that my car sits outside at work for 12 hours so its truly a "cold" start.
Take care, bill
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The recommended OCI is 5000 miles or 6months.
I'll continue with 5k OCIs.
When its costing me under $5 for a oil change incl filter, I'll spurge!
But agree, with a 4.4TBN @ 5.8k miles, I would think 7500 miles with ease. Prob closer to 9k.
Take care, bill
Is the powertrain warranty more than 60K? If not, with the kind of UOA you are seeing, I would think 7-8K would be safe and provide some info on extended changes with dino. Toyota used to recommend 7.5K/ 6 month changes before they had the sludge problem. How long was the oil in the car?
Dennis
Nope, warrenty was over at 60k.
Never any sludge problem with the 1ZZFE but your correct, Toyota went across the board from 7.5k/6mo to 5k/6mo in 2005 to make things simpler and make sure no one had issues.
2 months was how long I the oil was in there. Changed Jan 01/07
Also, I used a supertech filter (I said in the orginal post Purolater).
You know your a member of BITOG when you spend 6 (six) times the cost of the oil change on a UOA!
So, not too bad results for a $5 oil change incl filter i'd say.
I have to take our work trucks to Jiffy Lube
Take care, Bill
Patman
Staff member
Bill, what oil are you running in this car now? Did you put GTX in there again?
Nope, Decided I'd try (since I had a jug in the stash) Supertech 5w-30 Syn.
So far, NOT impressed. I get the timing chain rattle for 1/2 sec while the oil pressure pumps up. First time I've heard it.
It happended with 800 miles on the oil and outside temp @ 64 degrees. Car was parked outside for 11 hours.
We will see how it goes. Its only happened once. If it continues, I will drain it out and most likely put GTX, Pennzoil or Chevron back in there.
Take care, Bill
This might sound crazy Bill but I swear these engines make a lot more different noises when synthetic is in there compared to dino oil...I just emptied Pennzoil Plat out and refilled with Castrol Synth Blend...seems to be a bit quieter....the quietest I have ever hear it is with Chevron 5W30 SL...may have to go back to dino to quiet this hot rod down lol
Goose
ps dealer of course said that there was no noise from the tensioner...guess the 1ZZFE should have a diesel sound while giving it gas(moving in Drive, not in Park)
Goose
ps dealer of course said that there was no noise from the tensioner...guess the 1ZZFE should have a diesel sound while giving it gas(moving in Drive, not in Park)
Some engines sound different with oil choices. I wanna believe that synthetics flow back to the pan quicker. Maybe that is why more noise is heard. Oil is a sound insulator. If it is slow to drain back, mineral oil might just act like an engine silencer.
BTW, excellent UOA. I blame it on the highway driving. You didn't stress the engine or oil at all.
If anyone has startup noise, swap the filter and top off the level, before complaining about oil. If that doesn't help, complain away.
BTW, excellent UOA. I blame it on the highway driving. You didn't stress the engine or oil at all.
If anyone has startup noise, swap the filter and top off the level, before complaining about oil. If that doesn't help, complain away.
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So much for using the code...ITS NOT STRAIGHT!!!
I will be posting the PDF..
Cheers, Bill
Bill,
I think you are just about there. I believe at one time EKPOLK (or it may have been AEHaas) described a method of keeping everything aligned. I can't remember the details, but I noticed that you used an Arial font. I believe one of EK's tips was that you had to use a font that somehow gives each letter the same width as the next. Other fonts give an "l" and an "m" for example a different width for a better visual effect, and this messes with the alignment. There was a certain "courier" font he referenced as an example that worked well. You also had to use the code as you did, and he recommended doing it all in a program like MSWord first.
Sorry I couldn't be more specific, but I tried to search for that post and couldn't find it for you. I'm sure others could explain this better, and I hope they pipe up to clarify!
Patman
Staff member
Even though it's probably tempting to drain out that ST synthetic if you keep hearing the noises, I think you should stay the course and run it to 5k and do a UOA. Then you'll know for sure if the noises also correlate to higher engine wear.
Pat,
I am going to stay with this oil for 7.5k (since the oil change cost 2.5 times more than my normal oil cost of $5..) and I am going to get a UOA (no TBN though since I will not run it again).
BTW, no improvement in MPG over GTX and engine is running the same.
After this UOA, my next UOAs will incl;
5k oci with Chevron 5w-30 (the oil I will be with for a long time. I've got over 150 quarts of it in the stash! All at .49 cents a quart)
5k oci with Valvoline 5w-30. (the new Premimum "ac" conventional)
5k OCI with Halvoline DS 5w-30.
Was going to try some Amsoil 5w-30 XL for 7.5k but cost is way up there. Really hard for me to get a $30 oil change then $20 UOA... Thats 50k worth of oil changes in cost!
All for 7.5k miles.
Take care, bill
This is an impressive UOA. Especially given the predominance of highway driving, this is only going to make matters even easier for the oil. Cost arguments are what they are. It all depends upon one's priorities. If cost containment is at the top of the list, and there's precisely nothing wrong with that, then it's awfully hard to argue against the current crop of good SM dino oils.
I have noticed this too. I theorize (carefully selected word, mind you) that perhaps small, relatively light aluminum engines simply have less material with which to block or absorb sound energy. This, maybe, allows the finer differences in sound to make their way to where they can be discerned by vehicle occupants. OTOH, I may just be totally full of bovine exhaust on this...
Bill, I find that if you use tabs to separate the values in a MS Word or WP document, you get fixed columns. Spreadsheets also may be the way to go -- still experimenting with that.
I have noticed this too. I theorize (carefully selected word, mind you) that perhaps small, relatively light aluminum engines simply have less material with which to block or absorb sound energy. This, maybe, allows the finer differences in sound to make their way to where they can be discerned by vehicle occupants. OTOH, I may just be totally full of bovine exhaust on this...
Bill, I find that if you use tabs to separate the values in a MS Word or WP document, you get fixed columns. Spreadsheets also may be the way to go -- still experimenting with that.
Another comment about getting data in columns, abbreviate the elements to 7 letters or less or use the chemical symbols (Iron=Fe, Tin=Sn, Lead=Pb, Silver=Ag, Sodium=Na, Potassium=K, Boron=B, Barium=Ba, Magnesium=Mg, Manganese=Mn, Copper=Cu, Chromium=Cr and all others (in a Blackstone Analysis)use the first two letters, except Phosph. and Zinc which use just their first letter. The result is below:
Code:
Al 3
Cr 0
Fe 3
Cu 0
Pb 0
Sn 1
Mo 15
Ni 0
Mn 2
Ag 0
Ti 0
K 1
B 21
Si 4
Na 2
Ca 2276
Mg 7
P 667
Zn 764
Ba 0
Viscos 55.4
Flashpt 365
Fuel TR
Antifrz 0.0
H20 0.0
Insolub 0.3
TBN 4.4
Code:
Al 3
Cr 0
Fe 3
Cu 0
Pb 0
Sn 1
Mo 15
Ni 0
Mn 2
Ag 0
Ti 0
K 1
B 21
Si 4
Na 2
Ca 2276
Mg 7
P 667
Zn 764
Ba 0
Viscos 55.4
Flashpt 365
Fuel TR
Antifrz 0.0
H20 0.0
Insolub 0.3
TBN 4.4
Wow 300 quarts! At 20k per year and a 5k oci that would be over 18 years worth of oil for a 4 quart oil change. Bill has 2 cars so I guess that would be only 9 years. Although the savings are nice, I would rather be able to use the latest formulations, hopefully the oils will keep getting better. Does oil have a shelf life?
Dennis
Dennis
It does. Depending who you talk to, between 5-9 years depending on how you store it.
I've used oil that is 5-7 years old with no problems.
I'm down to under 200 quarts now. Here is a photo from today
With UOAs that show excellent results, MPGs in every vehicle that are excellent (and please notice that I have run BOTH syn and conventional in all of my cars and does UOAs, kept track of every ounce of fuel) and many cars in our family going over 200k, 300k on yesterdays oils I am not into the latest and greatest.
I'll spend under a buck a quart (the stash above cost LESS than $125. The same cost of five 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 at Wal-mart) and keep doing what I've done for decades.
Oh, I change for more than two cars so thats why the stash is going down.
I was at almost 500 quarts a year ago! Sold some oil to the guy who bought my truck and used the rest.
Take care, Bill
PS: I wish I drove only 20k miles a year.. My 2005 is getting close to 80k and its a little over 2 years old...
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