Bud_One
Site Donor 2025
Sounds like a perfect candidate for some VRP 5W-30 
03 Honda CR-V loses oil like crazy!
- Thread starter Carlostrece
- Start date
The CR-V has never had a 6 cylinder engine...always an inline 4. The 2003 CR-V has the venerable K24 series timing chain engine, which is among the best ever built by Honda.
This VTEC solenoid gasket is located high on the back of the engine. A copious amount of oil can leak down across the back of the block and get blown back across the lower control arm and undercarriage. It is possible for it not to show drops on the garage floor or driveway for a long time. I have personally replaced this gasket on various CR-Vs, Accords and Elements of the 1999-2006 vintage with the K24 motor.
The whole assembly can warp too. A new gasket won't fix the leak. I found that fun fact out. When replacing the PCV valve theres another small VTEC gasket in the front that often leaks.
I too, found this out the hard way after over torquing the VTEC solenoid assembly. The warpage is so subtle, you cannot detect it by placing the mating surface on a piece of glass/mirror. The leak was finally resolved after replacing the entire solenoid assembly when three new gasket replacements did not cure the leak.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Agreed. I was mistaken in my earlier post.
that's a metal PCV Valve, it can be cleaned (as long as it is OEM), doesn't need to be replaced.
I would personally remove that intake and clean it as well, along with the Throttle Body but it all depends on your skillset.
I would post the Torque specs for the solenoid assembly, it will help OP if his car's solenoids are leaking.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
OK. Here's a little more info. I'm severely handicapped. This car belong to my neighbor lady who helps take care of me. I do pay her for that, and she's also a caregiver for 2 other people. She works 3 part time jobs equal in hours to 1 full time job, but still has a hard time making ends meet. I want to help her with her car as a bonus to her and because she needs the help.
I'm not physically able to work on cars anymore. My cousin will do the easy stuff and I'll pay him and buy parts/supplies. Difficult tasks or tasks needing a lift or specialty tools I will pay my certified mechanic to do.
Essentially it's not my car, but I'm paying for the maintenance/repairs. I want to limit it to relatively cheap easy solutions.
I already bought a PCV. Next I'll buy a PCV hose. Those are cheap easy solutions that might help. Thanks for the hose advice.
As for checking the VTEC solenoid & gasket for leaks, that's a great idea. Hopefully replacing those won't cost to much money, if it's needed.
VRP oil is another possible solution that I might also try, but I suspect if it's stuck rings they might be to far gone for VRP to fix. My concern is that VRP could get expensive with the CR-V needing an additional quart every 300-500 miles.
I'm not physically able to work on cars anymore. My cousin will do the easy stuff and I'll pay him and buy parts/supplies. Difficult tasks or tasks needing a lift or specialty tools I will pay my certified mechanic to do.
Essentially it's not my car, but I'm paying for the maintenance/repairs. I want to limit it to relatively cheap easy solutions.
I already bought a PCV. Next I'll buy a PCV hose. Those are cheap easy solutions that might help. Thanks for the hose advice.
As for checking the VTEC solenoid & gasket for leaks, that's a great idea. Hopefully replacing those won't cost to much money, if it's needed.
VRP oil is another possible solution that I might also try, but I suspect if it's stuck rings they might be to far gone for VRP to fix. My concern is that VRP could get expensive with the CR-V needing an additional quart every 300-500 miles.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Is the PCV hose a specific molded hose with a Honda part #, or is it just generic crankcase hose rolled off a spool at any auto store?
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2025
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- 15
I have had 3 cars that burned oil and you would have never known. No smoke or anything. It is usually a PCV or something like that, but sometimes just poor mainenance causes scratching of the cylinder walls which lets oil get through.
If that is the case, there is not much you can do other than re-ring it or just keep putting more oil in. One of the cars was so bad that you had to put in a quart a month. But, it still ran perfectly fine.
You can have someone follow you and mash on the gas to see if there is a smoke or oil smell that they can see. As the driver it is hard to be aware of the rear exhaust.
If that is the case, there is not much you can do other than re-ring it or just keep putting more oil in. One of the cars was so bad that you had to put in a quart a month. But, it still ran perfectly fine.
You can have someone follow you and mash on the gas to see if there is a smoke or oil smell that they can see. As the driver it is hard to be aware of the rear exhaust.
VRP is pretty cheap from Walmart and has shown incredible results in certain engines, I would definitely try it.
instead of replacing those VTEC solenoids, I would get them cleaned first as that will cost a lot less.
Get the 5qt jugs at Walmart of the VRP and refill some single qts from it. At least you'll be adding stuff that may help.
You could get some of the single qt bottles from the sale thread link https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/vrp-5w-20-single-quarts-at-amazon.397629/ with the added $5 rebate on 5qts that you submit on your phone. Do a couple separate 5 qt orders with the individuals. Keep the bottles and refill from the 5qt in the 5W-30 afterward.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I mentioned possibly replacing because others mentioned possible warpage in the VTEC housing.
But first things first. PCV and crankcase ventilation hose will get replaced. Then I'll see if that helps. Then proceed from there.
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The three 10 mm bolts for the VTEC solenoid assembly should only be torqued to 104 in-lb. (or ~9 ft.-lb.).
that is a very normal torque, I thought it was going to be around 50-65 in-lbs, why do people hulk things? just torque it to spec, even a common sense hand tight will get you in the 9 ft. lbs territory but I always use a torque wrench.
My 2005 CRV used quite a bit of oil initially. I found everything from 0w20 to 5w30 was about the same.
I bumped up to Supertech 5W40 Euro and it reduced usage significantly. You might want to try a thicker oil and see how it goes.
I replaced the PCV valve last year and it made a fairly small improvement. It now consistently uses a couple of litres (quarts) per 5000 mile OCi.
I bumped up to Supertech 5W40 Euro and it reduced usage significantly. You might want to try a thicker oil and see how it goes.
I replaced the PCV valve last year and it made a fairly small improvement. It now consistently uses a couple of litres (quarts) per 5000 mile OCi.
why not try VRP 5w30?
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Is it safe to use 5w40 in a 2.4L Honda CR-V engine? That sounds kinda thick considering it was originally using 5w20.
Also, like the AKhan87 asked, why didn't you use Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w30? You probably have a reason. I'm just curious.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Regarding replacing crankcase breather hose or PCV hose or whatever it's called... Is that hose a premolded (preshaped) hose with a specific Honda part # or is it just generic breather hose that autostores roll off a spool to sell by the foot?