The car now has a different battery installed.
02 Toyota Camry V6 MAJOR ISSUES. Please chime in.
- Thread starter VK56VD
- Start date
- Status
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Spartuss
The car now has a different battery installed.
So what was the condition of the other one? After properly charged and rested, was it over 12V?
Did it change anything? What happens to the battery voltage when rested but connected to the car? If it drops bad, that would indicate bad diodes in the alternator.
The car now has a different battery installed.
So what was the condition of the other one? After properly charged and rested, was it over 12V?
Did it change anything? What happens to the battery voltage when rested but connected to the car? If it drops bad, that would indicate bad diodes in the alternator.
Check all the fuses with a fuse tester- my brother jumped his car and screwed up the polarity, it blew the main fusible link and fried a few other fuses that we found using a tester. Luckily the ecm was ok, the dash board weirdness looks like a fuse.
The battery was old and completely drained. I did not measure the voltage as it was already night. Can a bad alternator even after having a new battery replaced, cause the engine to run, but leave the tachometer, speedometer, all dash lights, except check engine light and all of the electronics not working that includes the power windows, locks, sunroof, radio, automatic climate control.
What is the AM1 fuse? It says starter but I don't know what it does.
It blows every time I start the car. When I install a new 5amp fuse, the dash lights all come on for a brief second at which point I was able to raise the power window. After this, the fuse is blown.
What is the AM1 fuse? It says starter but I don't know what it does.
It blows every time I start the car. When I install a new 5amp fuse, the dash lights all come on for a brief second at which point I was able to raise the power window. After this, the fuse is blown.
Originally Posted By: Spartuss
The battery was old and completely drained. I did not measure the voltage as it was already night. Can a bad alternator even after having a new battery replaced, cause the engine to run, but leave the tachometer, speedometer, all dash lights, except check engine light and all of the electronics not working that includes the power windows, locks, sunroof, radio, automatic climate control.
It is highly unlikely that it would cause all of those problems but if the voltage is way off from what it should be, I guess it is possible... but in general it is a good idea to check the alternator when you have any electrical problems, even if those problems aren't what you would expect to see with a bad alternator. What is the voltage across the battery terminals with the car running?
You mentioned that the check engine light is on. What are the codes? It will be very hard to diagnose this issue without codes, especially the force idle condition.
Quote:
What is the AM1 fuse? It says starter but I don't know what it does.
It blows every time I start the car. When I install a new 5amp fuse, the dash lights all come on for a brief second at which point I was able to raise the power window. After this, the fuse is blown.
Not sure... some research indicates that it might goto the starter solenoid. It may also involve the ignition switch which is already known to be bad. This is a complete guess on my part - this is one of those situations where you need the shop manual + ETM (wiring diagram) to find out exactly what is on that circuit. Sometimes these can be found online. There are tools out there to help you find shorts and other electrical issues, but you need to know where to start looking.
Does the fuse blow after turning the key to Start, or does it blow when the key is just on the RUN position. With a new fuse and the key on RUN (don't try to start it), do the dash lights come on and stay on, or come on for a few seconds and blow the fuse again.
The battery was old and completely drained. I did not measure the voltage as it was already night. Can a bad alternator even after having a new battery replaced, cause the engine to run, but leave the tachometer, speedometer, all dash lights, except check engine light and all of the electronics not working that includes the power windows, locks, sunroof, radio, automatic climate control.
It is highly unlikely that it would cause all of those problems but if the voltage is way off from what it should be, I guess it is possible... but in general it is a good idea to check the alternator when you have any electrical problems, even if those problems aren't what you would expect to see with a bad alternator. What is the voltage across the battery terminals with the car running?
You mentioned that the check engine light is on. What are the codes? It will be very hard to diagnose this issue without codes, especially the force idle condition.
Quote:
What is the AM1 fuse? It says starter but I don't know what it does.
It blows every time I start the car. When I install a new 5amp fuse, the dash lights all come on for a brief second at which point I was able to raise the power window. After this, the fuse is blown.
Not sure... some research indicates that it might goto the starter solenoid. It may also involve the ignition switch which is already known to be bad. This is a complete guess on my part - this is one of those situations where you need the shop manual + ETM (wiring diagram) to find out exactly what is on that circuit. Sometimes these can be found online. There are tools out there to help you find shorts and other electrical issues, but you need to know where to start looking.
Does the fuse blow after turning the key to Start, or does it blow when the key is just on the RUN position. With a new fuse and the key on RUN (don't try to start it), do the dash lights come on and stay on, or come on for a few seconds and blow the fuse again.
If it keeps blowing fuses, it's a sign that a short has developed somewhere.
With a short like that: alternator will burn up eventually, battery will drain to the point of no-return(have to be replaced) and much, much more.
While pulling the alternator connection off while having a fresh new (fully-charged) battery to test to see if the blowing fuse still occurs would be a good step, frankly speaking, this car has some serious problems that would require serious sitting down with a factory service manual.
Q.
With a short like that: alternator will burn up eventually, battery will drain to the point of no-return(have to be replaced) and much, much more.
While pulling the alternator connection off while having a fresh new (fully-charged) battery to test to see if the blowing fuse still occurs would be a good step, frankly speaking, this car has some serious problems that would require serious sitting down with a factory service manual.
Q.
JHZR2
Staff member
+1. Perhaps the first step is to get a 10A multimeter, and check the parasitic draw with the key off and the key to on but the engine off (and auxilliaries like lights, fans, etc, so you dont blow the fuse on the multimeter unnecessarily). See what the numbers are.
I feel bad for this poor, poor Camry. It's such a shame what a few people with no brain can do to a car.
I suggest the OP doesn't lay another finger on the car and takes it to a professional. Sure it might cost an arm and a leg but that's the pile of doggy poo that you're in right now. gotta pay to fix it.
I suggest the OP doesn't lay another finger on the car and takes it to a professional. Sure it might cost an arm and a leg but that's the pile of doggy poo that you're in right now. gotta pay to fix it.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Artem
I feel bad for this poor, poor Camry. It's such a shame what a few people with no brain can do to a car.
I suggest the OP doesn't lay another finger on the car and takes it to a professional. Sure it might cost an arm and a leg but that's the pile of doggy poo that you're in right now. gotta pay to fix it.
This isn't the OP's car, nor is he working on it. Perhaps go back and re-read the first post in this thread.
I feel bad for this poor, poor Camry. It's such a shame what a few people with no brain can do to a car.
I suggest the OP doesn't lay another finger on the car and takes it to a professional. Sure it might cost an arm and a leg but that's the pile of doggy poo that you're in right now. gotta pay to fix it.
This isn't the OP's car, nor is he working on it. Perhaps go back and re-read the first post in this thread.
Originally Posted By: Quest
If it keeps blowing fuses, it's a sign that a short has developed somewhere.
+1
ALWAYS start with the simple stuff! check the battery connections, check the main starter wire connection, check the ignition wire (the little one) on the starter.
I'm betting on corrosion causing a short somewhere.
If it keeps blowing fuses, it's a sign that a short has developed somewhere.
+1
ALWAYS start with the simple stuff! check the battery connections, check the main starter wire connection, check the ignition wire (the little one) on the starter.
I'm betting on corrosion causing a short somewhere.
To the OP-
I would recommend you don't try to work on this car anymore. I know the owner is a friend of yours, but I think you've done enough with this car. It's looking more and more like a problem that will be a big PITA to find. I think it's time to have it towed to a professional and see what they say.
I would recommend you don't try to work on this car anymore. I know the owner is a friend of yours, but I think you've done enough with this car. It's looking more and more like a problem that will be a big PITA to find. I think it's time to have it towed to a professional and see what they say.
Thanks a bunch to all of the replies. Everyone has contributed with a wealth of knowledge. I found a good electrical auto shop that deals with only electrics and also found a fairly cheap tow for my friend. The car is now at the shop and I will receive a call from the owner sometime tomorrow to see what the problem is. I will keep everyone updated.
I do not have enough knowledge or skill to diagnose this issue but do know more than my friend does.
I do not have enough knowledge or skill to diagnose this issue but do know more than my friend does.
I'm curious to see hoe this is going to turn out.
I'd guess that at least one major computer got fried. Hopefully there's not any damage to a harnass.
This could be the car nightmares are made of...
I'd guess that at least one major computer got fried. Hopefully there's not any damage to a harnass.
This could be the car nightmares are made of...
Friends don't let friends that THINK they know what they are doing work on car batteries or anything else car related for that matter.
Good grief.
I actually had a "apprentice" mechanic working at a dealership try and "help" me replace my spark plugs, now I am a shade tree but I am uber careful and study things three times over before I attempt doing any work on my vehicle. Well the "helpful idiot" insisted on putting his fat hands on my plug wires to get them out of the way of the plug so I could remove it, and he proceeded to bend the wire to the point where it snapped the conductor inside the cable. Of course upon installing the plugs and starting up the car I had a nice misfire from the break. Suddenly the "helpful idiot" wanted no part in taking responsibility for his incompetence.
When I work on my vehicle I NEVER let anyone else touch ANYTHING at all!
Good grief.
I actually had a "apprentice" mechanic working at a dealership try and "help" me replace my spark plugs, now I am a shade tree but I am uber careful and study things three times over before I attempt doing any work on my vehicle. Well the "helpful idiot" insisted on putting his fat hands on my plug wires to get them out of the way of the plug so I could remove it, and he proceeded to bend the wire to the point where it snapped the conductor inside the cable. Of course upon installing the plugs and starting up the car I had a nice misfire from the break. Suddenly the "helpful idiot" wanted no part in taking responsibility for his incompetence.
When I work on my vehicle I NEVER let anyone else touch ANYTHING at all!
Originally Posted By: Quest
major electrical gremlins within. It's gonna take some serious tracking/tracing and testing all along with the aid of factory service manual.
Sorry, it's not something that can be casually cured by bringing it up on the internet bulletin board.
Q.
Yes, a pro electrical shop should be able to find the issue and they can consult proper manuals. The manual alone makes such a big difference.
^To the OP. Good job trying to help. Be positive and put into prospective what you 'did' learn and let it sink into your working knowledge. I mean, really, with the right tools, some experience at the 'procedure' to test properly and a FSM, you may have been able to at least identify what was wrong. So don't give up in learning how to at least diagnose in the future.
My previously owned 1st gen Stratus had the 'typical' failing starter with an issue with the solenoid(or bendix?) on the starter. I perhaps could have learned to re-man in retrospect but I learned how to research a problem based on very basic knowledge at the time that is only somewhat beyond novice still.
Anyway, replacing the starter fixed a fuse popping issue upon trying to crank. This apparently was common to some owners of that 1st gen/similar models, it also has it's unique off-set gear reduction so they tend to be an expensive unit. KOEO did not generate the fuse pop, it was only when trying to crank, so it could turn out to be ignition switch related and/or starter; but wiring problems or OTHERWISE if an unknown parasitic draw is what killed the old battery, more to surface we can only wait and see what the proper diagnosis is. Of course, it's 'basic' to suspect an alternator but get the other issues out of the way, test the alternator separate from the vehicle or later all together. It's already verified this is a known outside issue right now, separate from the alternator.
The burnt issue makes sense, since once in the run position from starting the 5a fuse in popping, so anything that is between there and the distributor/coil is in question; unless of course there is a crazy computer issue aside from wiring or another blown fuse or shorting issues elsewhere. Does it keep running as long as you continue to hold down the gas pedal upon the successful starts before or only 'starts' with pedal down but dies immediately?
major electrical gremlins within. It's gonna take some serious tracking/tracing and testing all along with the aid of factory service manual.
Sorry, it's not something that can be casually cured by bringing it up on the internet bulletin board.
Q.
Yes, a pro electrical shop should be able to find the issue and they can consult proper manuals. The manual alone makes such a big difference.
^To the OP. Good job trying to help. Be positive and put into prospective what you 'did' learn and let it sink into your working knowledge. I mean, really, with the right tools, some experience at the 'procedure' to test properly and a FSM, you may have been able to at least identify what was wrong. So don't give up in learning how to at least diagnose in the future.
My previously owned 1st gen Stratus had the 'typical' failing starter with an issue with the solenoid(or bendix?) on the starter. I perhaps could have learned to re-man in retrospect but I learned how to research a problem based on very basic knowledge at the time that is only somewhat beyond novice still.
Anyway, replacing the starter fixed a fuse popping issue upon trying to crank. This apparently was common to some owners of that 1st gen/similar models, it also has it's unique off-set gear reduction so they tend to be an expensive unit. KOEO did not generate the fuse pop, it was only when trying to crank, so it could turn out to be ignition switch related and/or starter; but wiring problems or OTHERWISE if an unknown parasitic draw is what killed the old battery, more to surface we can only wait and see what the proper diagnosis is. Of course, it's 'basic' to suspect an alternator but get the other issues out of the way, test the alternator separate from the vehicle or later all together. It's already verified this is a known outside issue right now, separate from the alternator.
The burnt issue makes sense, since once in the run position from starting the 5a fuse in popping, so anything that is between there and the distributor/coil is in question; unless of course there is a crazy computer issue aside from wiring or another blown fuse or shorting issues elsewhere. Does it keep running as long as you continue to hold down the gas pedal upon the successful starts before or only 'starts' with pedal down but dies immediately?
Once the new battery was put in, the car did start by itself and ran. It did not respond to throttle position at all. Even when it was put into drive, there was no response from throttle in regards to engine speed.
I should know today what the problem is.
Is it possible that before the jumper cables were crossed, the engine would die due to a worn battery and the only way to keep it running was to hold the rpm up?
From my knowledge, once the car starts, even if the battery is disconnected, it will continue to run on the alternator. Does this mean the alternator isn't providing enough power as well?
I should know today what the problem is.
Is it possible that before the jumper cables were crossed, the engine would die due to a worn battery and the only way to keep it running was to hold the rpm up?
From my knowledge, once the car starts, even if the battery is disconnected, it will continue to run on the alternator. Does this mean the alternator isn't providing enough power as well?
Ok, got a call from the shop. Half of the power distribution box was fried. They took it out and had to fix it. Not sure what they fixed. I assume some relay's and wiring and whatever else could have gone bad from the cross polarity. They are charging $240 for parts and labor which seems reasonable I guess.
The car starts and runs but the same problem is now occurring as before the wires were crossed when jump starting.
The car starts, but once the rpm's drop and the throttle is not held, the engine stall's. I'm reading online that there is a re-learning procedure that needs to happen and I need to maintain engine speed and feather the throttle for 15-20 mins. for the re-learn process to take place after the battery is disconnected. This seems odd and strange to me.
The shop also said they ripped out the aftermarket alarm because it was blowing the AM1 fuse (it wasn't doing this before the ordeal).
Others are saying it's a common problem in these cars for the IACV to be clogged. This wasn't a problem before the engine de-greaser and wasn't a problem before the battery died. I think some engine de-greaser got on a sensor under the hood in front of the engine where the fan is (that's the only place engine de-greaser was sprayed). Any sensor in that proximity or below where the de-greaser could have dripped onto?
Shed some light please.
The car starts and runs but the same problem is now occurring as before the wires were crossed when jump starting.
The car starts, but once the rpm's drop and the throttle is not held, the engine stall's. I'm reading online that there is a re-learning procedure that needs to happen and I need to maintain engine speed and feather the throttle for 15-20 mins. for the re-learn process to take place after the battery is disconnected. This seems odd and strange to me.
The shop also said they ripped out the aftermarket alarm because it was blowing the AM1 fuse (it wasn't doing this before the ordeal).
Others are saying it's a common problem in these cars for the IACV to be clogged. This wasn't a problem before the engine de-greaser and wasn't a problem before the battery died. I think some engine de-greaser got on a sensor under the hood in front of the engine where the fan is (that's the only place engine de-greaser was sprayed). Any sensor in that proximity or below where the de-greaser could have dripped onto?
Shed some light please.
Last edited:
Sounds like the IACV is dirty. Cleaning it should do the trick.
Lets assume it is dirty. Why wasn't this issue arising before?
Can I try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i82s4ZfR2js
Will it hurt anything? This guy is using carb. cleaner. Is it safer to use throttle body cleaner?
Can I try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i82s4ZfR2js
Will it hurt anything? This guy is using carb. cleaner. Is it safer to use throttle body cleaner?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Lets assume it is dirty. Why wasn't this issue arising before?
Can I try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i82s4ZfR2js
Will it hurt anything? This guy is using carb. cleaner. Is it safer to use throttle body cleaner?
This video will also help: IACV Cleaning
No, it won't hurt anything. It's safe to use throttle body cleaner, actually it's better if you use that opposed to anything else.
Not sure why this issue wasn't arising before. But, the symptoms you describe sound like a dirty IACV, but the only way to know is by inspecting it and seeing if it turns freely.
Lets assume it is dirty. Why wasn't this issue arising before?
Can I try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i82s4ZfR2js
Will it hurt anything? This guy is using carb. cleaner. Is it safer to use throttle body cleaner?
This video will also help: IACV Cleaning
No, it won't hurt anything. It's safe to use throttle body cleaner, actually it's better if you use that opposed to anything else.
Not sure why this issue wasn't arising before. But, the symptoms you describe sound like a dirty IACV, but the only way to know is by inspecting it and seeing if it turns freely.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
