This is my first post so I hope I don't bore anyone with rehashing old material. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 2 wheel drive, 5.3 engine, 228,000 miles and some piston slap. I have been running PP10w30 in it after one time the PP5w30 seemed to make the noise a bit louder and last a little longer. With the new SN PYB 5w30 and it's higher moly, would you think that would be a better choice for a winter oil or even help with the slap. It uses about a half quart during a 5,000 mile OCI or when the OLM goes off. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thankyou
"00 Silverado 1500 with piston slap 5.3 winter oil
- Thread starter Tzu
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 2 wd 5.3 too. It had the slap, but after trying some different things, I don't think it is the oil. I think it is more dependent on the filter. I think the ADB valve in the filter is the biggest factor. Try a NAPA Gold filter just once, and see if it helps. I think that is what solved my trucks slap problem. Changing oils did not matter for me.
I'd run synthetic. I doubt any oil will help with piston slap.
So, then, why synthetic if "it won't help"?
I had the exact same truck with BAD slapping, so bad, I traded it in and got (still have) a 2003 5.3L.
Filter type didn't help.
The de-carbonizing the dealer did helped a lot, but only moderately temporary.
Oil type won't help much, it'll still slap.
Filter type didn't help.
The de-carbonizing the dealer did helped a lot, but only moderately temporary.
Oil type won't help much, it'll still slap.
I own a 2000 GMC 5.3L does not really matter what i used it has start up knock i just seem to live with it. Filter is vertical that seems to be no part of the problem. current fill is M1 HM 5w30 and a BD+ filter seems to be the same noise as any other fill combo i have used.
Slap is a mechanical clearance issue, not sure synthectic vs dino will really matter. I would be curious to see if lubromoly mos2 would have any effect on the sound. I think nothing short of a new piston will fix it.
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Originally Posted By: spasm3
Slap is a mechanical clearance issue, not sure synthectic vs dino will really matter. I would be curious to see if lubromoly mos2 would have any effect on the sound. I think nothing short of a new piston will fix it.
I do think the problem was with short piston skirts and now the problem has been fixed in later models at what year i do not remember.
Slap is a mechanical clearance issue, not sure synthectic vs dino will really matter. I would be curious to see if lubromoly mos2 would have any effect on the sound. I think nothing short of a new piston will fix it.
I do think the problem was with short piston skirts and now the problem has been fixed in later models at what year i do not remember.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Slap is a mechanical clearance issue, not sure synthectic vs dino will really matter. I would be curious to see if lubromoly mos2 would have any effect on the sound. I think nothing short of a new piston will fix it.
I do think the problem was with short piston skirts and now the problem has been fixed in later models at what year i do not remember.
The piston problem was still there in 2002. Some of the pistons had black plastic skirts (anti-friction coating), and some where plain aluminum.
I doubt the newer models came with longer piston skirts. They would have hit the crankshaft.
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Slap is a mechanical clearance issue, not sure synthectic vs dino will really matter. I would be curious to see if lubromoly mos2 would have any effect on the sound. I think nothing short of a new piston will fix it.
I do think the problem was with short piston skirts and now the problem has been fixed in later models at what year i do not remember.
The piston problem was still there in 2002. Some of the pistons had black plastic skirts (anti-friction coating), and some where plain aluminum.
I doubt the newer models came with longer piston skirts. They would have hit the crankshaft.
Originally Posted By: Tzu
228,000 miles and some piston slap.
228k? your going to have some noise,that engine will go another 100k easy,run it and sleep good at night.
228,000 miles and some piston slap.
228k? your going to have some noise,that engine will go another 100k easy,run it and sleep good at night.
Out with the synthetic and in with dino that is your best bet..
oil filter will do nothing.... How long waqs it slapping? Since new or what miles?
Do you use a high octane gas could only be carbon.....Carbon can sound like its the end sometimes
oil filter will do nothing.... How long waqs it slapping? Since new or what miles?
Do you use a high octane gas could only be carbon.....Carbon can sound like its the end sometimes
Skirt length, ring placement, bearing wear, and geometries in the design I'd be guessing.
But, I'd never run a nitrile ADBV Fram on a slapping engine.
As gfh777 mentioned, go for a Wix or NAPA Gold (same thing), but more as a precaution and feel-good measure.
Mix it up, get different high-quality filters, and each OCI try a different one. Again, probably won't help, but at least you are trying something.
For oil, I'd run German Castrol 0W30 and see if it helps. If not, I'd run a 0W40 for a short OCI and see if it helps. Plan to dump it in a few hundred miles if you worry about oil pressures and lubrication. This is purely to "rule out" lubrication as the factor.
If none of this helps, I'd stick to Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 5W30 and keep the OCI 5000 miles with a Wix filter to clear out the aluminum and elevated iron out of the sump.
I have seen the pistons of a bright and clean engine (would lead me to believe it was using syn) that had massive slap.
The aluminum skirt was pounded on the leading edge as if someone took a framing hammer and lightly tapped up and down it a few hundred times. And the aluminum looked smeared and scuffed.
From the visual evidence, and looking down the cylinder wall where the skirt was damaged, I didn't see any harm to the cylinder and the measurements fell into spec with a t-gauge.
I don't want to talk out of my rear for too long, but if it is cringe-worthy and a known engine trait (engineering), just play with oils and filters and see it as the nature of your beast, like a beloved spouse that isn't perfect but you wouldn't trade for anything.
Edit: Just read your mileage. Get a thick dino up to 40wt and call it a day.
But, I'd never run a nitrile ADBV Fram on a slapping engine.
As gfh777 mentioned, go for a Wix or NAPA Gold (same thing), but more as a precaution and feel-good measure.
Mix it up, get different high-quality filters, and each OCI try a different one. Again, probably won't help, but at least you are trying something.
For oil, I'd run German Castrol 0W30 and see if it helps. If not, I'd run a 0W40 for a short OCI and see if it helps. Plan to dump it in a few hundred miles if you worry about oil pressures and lubrication. This is purely to "rule out" lubrication as the factor.
If none of this helps, I'd stick to Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 5W30 and keep the OCI 5000 miles with a Wix filter to clear out the aluminum and elevated iron out of the sump.
I have seen the pistons of a bright and clean engine (would lead me to believe it was using syn) that had massive slap.
The aluminum skirt was pounded on the leading edge as if someone took a framing hammer and lightly tapped up and down it a few hundred times. And the aluminum looked smeared and scuffed.
From the visual evidence, and looking down the cylinder wall where the skirt was damaged, I didn't see any harm to the cylinder and the measurements fell into spec with a t-gauge.
I don't want to talk out of my rear for too long, but if it is cringe-worthy and a known engine trait (engineering), just play with oils and filters and see it as the nature of your beast, like a beloved spouse that isn't perfect but you wouldn't trade for anything.
Edit: Just read your mileage. Get a thick dino up to 40wt and call it a day.
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I bought the truck used 5 years ago with 96,000 miles on it and it has been that way since. I don't know the history of the truck before that. I have always used AC Delco PF61 from Walmart but have thought about using the Napa Gold size as a comparison. The carbon buildup could be a problem too. I thought of seafoaming it, but still have not done so. Thanks for the tips.
You can use Redline fuel system cleaner, that works if it is carbon.
But, you may get misfires after so be prepared to change your spark plugs, as some freed up carbon may foul the plugs.
If that helps please post back.
But, you may get misfires after so be prepared to change your spark plugs, as some freed up carbon may foul the plugs.
If that helps please post back.
I've had the best results with PP 10w30 and a Pure One filter on a 2000 Sierra with the 5.3. It didn't do so well with 5w30. Was noisier.
I change the oil every 5,000 miles or 9 months, whichever comes first.
I also have a 2004 Silverado with the 5.3, and apparently GM got it fixed before it rolled off of the assembly line.
I change the oil every 5,000 miles or 9 months, whichever comes first.
I also have a 2004 Silverado with the 5.3, and apparently GM got it fixed before it rolled off of the assembly line.
You could also try overfilling or underfilling by a half quart.
This changes how much oil is slung to the cylinder walls by the crankshaft. My last 2 vehicles have had piston slap and overfilling by a half quart reduces piston slap noise for me.
This changes how much oil is slung to the cylinder walls by the crankshaft. My last 2 vehicles have had piston slap and overfilling by a half quart reduces piston slap noise for me.
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