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Disagree. With that many miles, I'd go with a 5w-20. You're not driving the car particularly hard, are you? Probably just day-to-day driving...hoping that it lasts another 50-100 thousand miles...right? 5w-20 will get you there easily, and a lot cheaper than synthetic. Instead of spending an...

Well...with such in-depth knowledge of K&N filters...as they are oiled gauze and not oiled foam...I'd be hard pressed not to heed your advice...as I've only got over 120,000 miles on my oiled gauze filters (aFe) and my car has 175,000 miles in total on it. Ever think about using a little...

This past weekend, I pulled off my upper and lower intake manifolds on my contour 2.5L V-6. On the valve stems and ports where the seconderies open up, they were coated with carbon/blow-back/junk/what-ever-it-is. I was planning on running a container of Berryman's B-12 at a fairly constant rate...

MC 5-20 is an excellent oil. I run it in my SVT with 171,000 miles and I run it hard. Engine is soo smooth and quiet, and my car seems to run cooler on it as well...the temp guage seems to confirm this.

Nice! Keep'm coming...

What has everyone found to work the best on cleaning carbon/blow-by products? I'm pulling my upper intake manifold off tomoorow, and due to the long and bendie intake runners, most of it is in-accesible with a brush. I've heard: Carb cleaner Oven cleaner Lacquer thinner Your ideas? TIA

Any Starbucks. Why anyone would drink such overly cooked bean coffee is beyond me. And then to pay that price? And yes...I am a huge coffee drinker. I will drink airline...motel...and even wedding coffee.

My car: 1998 Ford SVT Contour 2.5L Duratech V-6 171,000 miles MC 5w20 with FL820s 3000 mile OCI Have used M1 5w30, 10w30, 0w40, TropArtic 5w30, Penz 5w30, GC. MC 5w20 gives me the best combo of performance, smoothness, quietness, and least amount of burn off. Oh...K&N, then AFE air filter for...

"...I can tell you have not actually owned them. Maybe you can recommend a summer tire that works in snow? FTR- the CEC is a Z-rated tire, no sidewall flex...dude." Actually...I have owned them. Put them on a Saab 9-3 SE after the Bridgestone SO3's wore out. And they are def a step down. Lane...

"Looking for a new set of tires for my '01 Jetta GLX VR6. Needing something with good dry/wet performance comparable with most summer tires with a little winter ability mixed in." Then you need to look elsewhere. They may be a good A/S tire, but they are in now way comparable to any summer...

So Uncle, you went out and got you a Bull-dog box huh? What kind of hp are you pushing to require that box? I've seen TH preparing one at his shop, and I remember him stating that they're $$$. I guess with that type of expense, I'd be squirming about fluid as well. What's your handle on CEG?

I also have bent a rim with the 512s. Part of their draw is that along with their grip and ride, is that they're also on average 2lbs lighter than similar sized tires. But I think that lack of lbs = reduction in sidewall strength and protection = easier to bend a rim. Cost me $150 for another...

Well..I am not THE Frank, but I am a Frank, so I'll answer this a little... I put BFG Traction TA's on my contour, and they were the hardest, loudest, most uncomfortable pieces of **** that I have ever driven on. I even went up in sidewall height (from 205 to 215 on a 15x7) for a softer winter...

I get my FL820s from either Wal-Mart or Auto Zone. Shoild have your model # there as well. Oh..and they're usually around ~$3.00

Stay with a V rated 225/55/16. You already said that the speedometer differeance doesn't bother you. The V rated tire will have a stiff enough side wall to keep the tire from feeling soft or squirmy, where I don't think an H rated tire would.

Don't know if this was posted before, but I was perusing the motorcraft website and saw this: Motorcraft® 5W-20 is a premium motor oil blended using synthetic and mineral oil base stocks manufactured via a process called “hydrocracking”. This process rearranges the molecules, freeing them of...

If you live in a climate...say like Memphis TN...where the coldest temps in the winter never get below 0F..and probably never dip below 20F...is there any advantage to using an 0W oil over a 5W? At these temps, does an 0W grade provide better start-up protection than a 5W? Does on 0W provide...

Does anyone have a cheap source for RL oils?

I soooo hate you!!! Nice cars!

I ran M-1 5w-30 for 50,000 miles, and the motor burned 1 qt of oil per ~3000 miles. I was looking for good start up flow, with a hearty non shearing operational temp flow. I poured over this site and went back and forth on M-1 5/30...10/30...0/20...and 0/30. As the 0W-40 has given stellar UOAs...