Recent content by Geonerd

If you're worried about it, toss in some xW-30. (HTHS of 3.0) And if you're REALLY worried , go for a 'Euro' blend xW-30. Look for an A3/B4 rating, which guarantees an HTHS of 3.5 or higher. Running a slightly thicker oil will not hurt anything, and may actually reduce wear on those rare...

Running an early 90's Accord in warm and wonderful Aridzona, I am very happy with Redline's MT-90. I changed to RL a few years after buying the car in 2006. The prior owner maintained the car well, but I don't know what fluid he was running. The MT-90 was noticeably "slicker" and smoother that...

Originally Posted By: JetStar Until I have some more pictures to share on the Honda, here is my last classic bike project. 1978 Suzuki GS1000, 1085 kit, minor head work, Mikuni Flatslide carbs, welded crankshaft, Dyna electronic ignition. Lovely Zook you've got! Looking forward to seeing...

IMO, his comparisons are "suggestive" at best. Without so much as a thermometer, much less a standardized heat source, timer, etc., his tests are pretty much scientific garbage.

Originally Posted By: ShotGun429 More mechanics use Valvoline products in their own cars than any other oil. I certainly do. Doesn't that tell you something? The power of advertising? Maybe Peer Pressure? As an attempted Argument from Authority, this is pretty weak (thin!) sauce (oil).

Originally Posted By: philipp10 Just remember when it's time to replace that Honda of yours that just because the nameplate says GM or Ford, there is no guarantee what you buy will employ more Americans that the nameplates of Honda or Toyota. So many parts these days come from overseas that its...

Originally Posted By: A1O Decided to use the pup5w20 on the girlfriends new to here 2012 ford fusion and the crown Vic has had syn blend all its life with no leakage or problems. So I am shopping for opinions on the syn blends out there. Pennzoil gold,Motorcraft,Kendall, or any others u know of...

Sure, why not? Ran an OCI worth of Valvoline 10w-40 dino from a garage sale in my Accord a few summers ago w/o any bother whatsoever.

Originally Posted By: SavagePatch Can a 0w30, say Mobil 1 not Castrol Edge, be safely used in place where a 5w20 is called for? The specific engine is a Ford 3.7L V6 Duratec. If yes, would the 0w30 protect significantly more. Conditions are short tripper, stop and go in Northern California...

Originally Posted By: Rolla07 If it takes 5w20 why not use 0w20? Not sure why you would run 0w30 instead. Because slightly higher HTHS will not hurt a thing, and might even prove useful once in a while.

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis Honestly the elemental analysis of the DG 10w30 doesn't look like it would hurt any modern vehicles, it has sufficient anti wear additives. I love the work PQIA usually does but this seems like a step in the wrong direction. Indeed. The SA stuff is worthy of...

Originally Posted By: LoneRanger Could also just be the way Castrol publishes HTHS numbers on their products. Often, they don't tell the actual tested HTHS but instead they show the API min spec HTHS for that viscosity. As far as I'm concerned, "No HTHS numbers, no purchase."

Originally Posted By: Kira ^^agreed, I gotta work my courage up. Also, that cnbc clip contained no information. Hey, real journalism is HARD! This system sounds like a 'solution' in search of a problem...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Big ends, particularly if there's a known marginal design, need HTHS. ALL plain bearings live (or die) with HTHS. If all other things were equal, higher delivery flow rate would probably reduce temps slightly, which IS a good thing. But to trade flow for film...

Originally Posted By: Leonardo629 how do you increase friction/wear and increase MPG at the same time? You don't. Any increase in wear will likely to occur when stressing the engine with high bearing loads caused by full throttle and/or RPM.