I would keep the current oil but go back to 0W20 for next oil change.
Car recommends 0w20, dealership filled with 5w30.
- Thread starter coulter
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: danielLD
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Once the engine gets stretched out with 5W-30, there's no going back to 0W-20 without having a massive drop in oil pressure. It would have been nice to switch to 5W-30 to account for wear when the engine hits 300,000 miles, but too late now!
^ That is contrary to my experience.
The 0W20 would provide less wear for this engine over the 5W30, short of massive idling like a cab. Oil is not something that you really ever want more than what you need. It's like shellac in a way, as the more you use, the less it holds.
I don't understand this statement. Could you elaborate?
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Once the engine gets stretched out with 5W-30, there's no going back to 0W-20 without having a massive drop in oil pressure. It would have been nice to switch to 5W-30 to account for wear when the engine hits 300,000 miles, but too late now!
^ That is contrary to my experience.
The 0W20 would provide less wear for this engine over the 5W30, short of massive idling like a cab. Oil is not something that you really ever want more than what you need. It's like shellac in a way, as the more you use, the less it holds.
I don't understand this statement. Could you elaborate?
Originally Posted By: wemay
I have come to the conclusion based on my new car (anecdotal) experience with Hyundai, Infiniti, Mitsubishi and Toyota that deslerships use whatever's on hand, and not what's necessarily the first choice as spelled out in the Owner's Manual. For instance, Hyundai recommends an ACEA A5 oil for all turbo models since 2015 or 2016 forward, along with recommending Quaker State... well, Quaker State does not have an oil meeting said spec. I wouldn't worry about a slight viscosity difference one bit.
I'd say you're correct. From what I've seen back in the day most dealers will use the oil the got the best deal on. I bet they still do it today.
I have come to the conclusion based on my new car (anecdotal) experience with Hyundai, Infiniti, Mitsubishi and Toyota that deslerships use whatever's on hand, and not what's necessarily the first choice as spelled out in the Owner's Manual. For instance, Hyundai recommends an ACEA A5 oil for all turbo models since 2015 or 2016 forward, along with recommending Quaker State... well, Quaker State does not have an oil meeting said spec. I wouldn't worry about a slight viscosity difference one bit.
I'd say you're correct. From what I've seen back in the day most dealers will use the oil the got the best deal on. I bet they still do it today.
I am running 5W30 in my Altima V6 and do not plan to change. Especially since I have a 2 year supply of 5W30 full synthetic on hand for the 3 cars that I maintain.
WHOA WHOA WHOA, WE CANT BE RUNNIN' NO 5W-30 WHERE THE MANUFACTURER ORIGINALLY RECOMMENDED 0W-20!
ChevyMan93 said:
coulter,
Please excuse the trolling and humor. Your car will be fine on 5w-30. And yes, you can go back to 0w-20 whenever you want.
Please excuse the trolling and humor. Your car will be fine on 5w-30. And yes, you can go back to 0w-20 whenever you want.
Your car will be absolutely fine on 5W-30.
You will pay about 1% more in gasoline using 5w30 instead of 0w20, but that is about the only ill effect.
For those who still don't believe a thicker, more viscous oil in your engine doesn't eat more gas, try this:
Stir honey (thick), then stir maple syrup (less thick). Which one took more force to stir at the same speed?
Your bearings must overcome more viscosity in hydrodynamic conditions, so it takes more force, and eats more gas, very measurable and about 1% or so depending on engine and GF-5 FM package.
For those who still don't believe a thicker, more viscous oil in your engine doesn't eat more gas, try this:
Stir honey (thick), then stir maple syrup (less thick). Which one took more force to stir at the same speed?
Your bearings must overcome more viscosity in hydrodynamic conditions, so it takes more force, and eats more gas, very measurable and about 1% or so depending on engine and GF-5 FM package.
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
ChevyMan93 said:
My Lexus GS400 with the 1UZ-FE v8 has significantly tighter tolerances in the cam, rod and main bearings than the 1UR-FSE (the LS460 engine), and the 1UZ was spec'd for 5W30 and the 1UR was spec'd for 0W20.
I've run 0W20, 5W20 and 5W30 in my 1UZ-FE V8 with no problems in any conditions.
It won't hurt it with 5W30.
I've run 0W20, 5W20 and 5W30 in my 1UZ-FE V8 with no problems in any conditions.
It won't hurt it with 5W30.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I wouldn't worry, some might say they did you a favor.
+1
I wouldn't worry, some might say they did you a favor.
+1
In 1978 I changed to M1 5-20 in my engine that called for 10-40. I started doing 10K OCIs then and 39 years later I still do 10K OCIs with M1 0-20. My engines are very clean, run quite and smooth, use no oil in 10K, and show no signs of engine wear.
Thanks for the feedback.
I felt pretty confident that I could leave it in there considering the previous generation with the same engine called for 5w-30, but just thought I would check. I plan to change anyway as I see no indication they used synthetic and though I usually change my own oil, I will probably take it in to the Lexus dealer as it still has about 2 years of a powertrain warranty. Might be cheap insurance if something happens.
Is there sort of a consensus that all things being equal, a 5w-30 is better than 0w-20 at engine protection in hotter climates? Or is that still very much up for debate?
My instinct says to use thicker oils in hotter climates and the really thin stuff is to satisfy the EPA to squeeze out a bit more mpgs. But then again, usually following the manufacturer is best practice.
I felt pretty confident that I could leave it in there considering the previous generation with the same engine called for 5w-30, but just thought I would check. I plan to change anyway as I see no indication they used synthetic and though I usually change my own oil, I will probably take it in to the Lexus dealer as it still has about 2 years of a powertrain warranty. Might be cheap insurance if something happens.
Is there sort of a consensus that all things being equal, a 5w-30 is better than 0w-20 at engine protection in hotter climates? Or is that still very much up for debate?
My instinct says to use thicker oils in hotter climates and the really thin stuff is to satisfy the EPA to squeeze out a bit more mpgs. But then again, usually following the manufacturer is best practice.
Happened the other way around for me. See below.
My theory is 20 weight oils in a well designed engine with a tight manufacturing process works well as an everyday driver, as attested by other members here. However, if the manufacturing process is somehow out of spec, e.g. cylinder round, taper, then problems may occur like oil consumption and blow-by. A slightly heavier viscosity might compensate for these deficiencies without adversely effecting other performance areas.
My theory is 20 weight oils in a well designed engine with a tight manufacturing process works well as an everyday driver, as attested by other members here. However, if the manufacturing process is somehow out of spec, e.g. cylinder round, taper, then problems may occur like oil consumption and blow-by. A slightly heavier viscosity might compensate for these deficiencies without adversely effecting other performance areas.
Originally Posted By: Chewie
If the car is still under warranty, I would have it changed back to the manual-specified grade especially since you said this was done at a non-Lexus dealership. If the manual says 5W-30 is acceptable then you'll be fine. If not, and if you don't have any other documentation/bulletin from Lexus saying that 5W-30 is OK, then change it. Don't give the dealer any reason to void your warranty.
Once your warranty is over, I would run at least an xx-30 if not an xx-40 especially given your climate.
I wouldn't worry about the warranty too much as the stealership is on the hook, but would go back to 0W-20 next change...
If the car is still under warranty, I would have it changed back to the manual-specified grade especially since you said this was done at a non-Lexus dealership. If the manual says 5W-30 is acceptable then you'll be fine. If not, and if you don't have any other documentation/bulletin from Lexus saying that 5W-30 is OK, then change it. Don't give the dealer any reason to void your warranty.
Once your warranty is over, I would run at least an xx-30 if not an xx-40 especially given your climate.
I wouldn't worry about the warranty too much as the stealership is on the hook, but would go back to 0W-20 next change...
- Status
Similar threads
