Oil for supercharged Silverado

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That oil is for race applications and not for automotive passenger car use and will be dumped after a race. Unless the OP is going to do that,stay away from racing oils.
 
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
0w30 is ok for NASCAR engines which are now pushing 900+hp

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-racing-oil

so why is a xw30 a problem on the street?


Different engine design, ultra low bearing clearances, ultra high RPM (revs build oil film thickness) and heavily additised oil that's not street/cat safe...that's why...

OP, minimum of Dexos 2 is where I'd start.
 
Take 2 for this reply:
I have a 2002 Chevy LQ 4 ProCharger supercharged, water methanol injected big tune big injectors making a little north of 500 hp.
First: Remove your PCV set up you are likely pressurizing your crank case.
I bought my truck new in 2002 drove it for 500 miles remove the OEM oil and replaced it with Mobil1 10/30.
At 90,000 miles I added the supercharger the truck now has 215,000 miles on it.
I send each oil change sample to Blackstone Labs were nothing of great interest has shown up other than I have the engine that is notorious for piston slap so I have high iron and high aluminum.
At each spark plug change we borescope the engine and now even at 215,000 miles the crosshatches on the cylinder walls are still visible. Thanks to the water injection there is very little carbon buildup on the pistons.
My truck drugs a 12,000 pound horse trailer from Ohio to Colorado most years in the summer and I have far more horsepower than I do cooling capacity. It has never gotten hot enough to set off any alarms but I always watch it closely at all times.
My supercharged LS engine truck that pulls a ridiculous amount of weight or runs in subzero weather at 215,000 miles is still going strong. It has had a steady diet its entire life of nothing but Mobil 1 10-30 or 10-30 high mileage.
I don't think you will go wrong with any high performance oil that you select for your truck but from my experience Mobil 1 will give you exceptional performance and long life.
If you have question just ask.
It has been frustrating to do this response over multiple times sorry for it being a little short on some details.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Thetruck454;
How is the 8L90E transmission holding up with all that power in a 3 ton vehicle? Is it a 4x4 with 3.23 gears or the max-trailer with 3.42?
The GL80 locker in the back might like 80W140 instead of the factory 75w90. Stock drive shaft?

Engine oil? Good question. No doubt you want a little added protection like the Corvette on track days. Is M-1 15w50 on your radar?
One down from that is 10W40 HM then 5w40 delvac CK-4. Personally I wouldn't go below 3.9 HTHS given the vehicle's weight 'n all.



My truck has the NHT(max trailering) package so I have 3.42's. I couldn't imagine having any taller gears than this like the 3.23's. If you get the 5.3 and the 8l90 and NHT you get 3.73's and I wish the 6.2 was the same.

So far the 8l90 is holding fine once I had the dextron fluid flushed and replaced with mobile 1 synthetic per GM's tsb. The aftermarket hasn't caught up with it yet so I didn't have much choice when I came to building it up. Circle D makes a nice tripple disc converter, but EFI Live nor HP Tuners have enough control of the tcm to tune for them properly, so I chose to wait on those.

Stock drive shaft now, but I have a local shop making me a new one as we speak. They are doing calculations to see if they can stay with a big one piece aluminum or have to go to a 2 piece steel.

I have a Detroit truetrac in my garage to replace the G80 with, I just have never done rear end work so I'm trying to find someone to help me with that install. Oddly enough the recommendation for the truetrac is regular dino gear oil without friction additive. Using either synthetic or friction additive reduced the bias ratio of the diff and can cause one tire fire senarios.

Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3

I've probably built or dyno tested over 200 engines at double or triple this power level on a Xw30 oil. No reason to be worried about a 30 oil in this application. Plenty of supercharged camaro engines living long lives on 5w30 making 600 whp.

I would probably run a Mobil 1 0w40 year round though.

To the OP your engine is different in many ways from the Corvette engine but no worries. The stock 6.2 internals are really really tough.

Running any good 5w30 or 0/5w40 will be sufficient year round. My pick for ease of locating and purchase would be M1 0w40 used with a Fram Ultra filter.



From my understanding in the past the LS2/LS3 in the vettes was different than the L92 in the trucks/suvs, but for the new genV engines, the LT1 and L86 are the same aside from injectors, intake manifold/TB and exhaust manifold. When my truck was ordered, it was held up for 4 months because vettes and escalades had priority for 6.2 allocation ahead of the trucks.

Originally Posted By: Jeepplr
Take 2 for this reply:
I have a 2002 Chevy LQ 4 ProCharger supercharged, water methanol injected big tune big injectors making a little north of 500 hp.
First: Remove your PCV set up you are likely pressurizing your crank case.
I bought my truck new in 2002 drove it for 500 miles remove the OEM oil and replaced it with Mobil1 10/30.
At 90,000 miles I added the supercharger the truck now has 215,000 miles on it.
I send each oil change sample to Blackstone Labs were nothing of great interest has shown up other than I have the engine that is notorious for piston slap so I have high iron and high aluminum.
At each spark plug change we borescope the engine and now even at 215,000 miles the crosshatches on the cylinder walls are still visible. Thanks to the water injection there is very little carbon buildup on the pistons.
My truck drugs a 12,000 pound horse trailer from Ohio to Colorado most years in the summer and I have far more horsepower than I do cooling capacity. It has never gotten hot enough to set off any alarms but I always watch it closely at all times.
My supercharged LS engine truck that pulls a ridiculous amount of weight or runs in subzero weather at 215,000 miles is still going strong. It has had a steady diet its entire life of nothing but Mobil 1 10-30 or 10-30 high mileage.
I don't think you will go wrong with any high performance oil that you select for your truck but from my experience Mobil 1 will give you exceptional performance and long life.
If you have question just ask.
It has been frustrating to do this response over multiple times sorry for it being a little short on some details.


Thanks for the dedication to the reply.

My old truck was a lq4 with a cam, long tubes, and a radix mp112. I was lucky enough not to have the piston slap, but I only kept it till 80k miles. That motor was a beast. It hit much harder down low than the current truck, but this 6.2 pulls much harder up top.

The positive displacement blowers don't pressurize the pcv systems like the centrifugal ones because they draw pre compressor, but I do have a catch can to catch most of the junk that goes through it, and I'm installing meth to help clean up the rest(not that it adds more power or anything haha). I'm also doing Blackstone lab oil analysis too, so I "should" be able to track any changes/issues.



So it looks like for ease of purchasing I may go with mobil 1 0w-40. I use the wrench on k&n oil filters, those are supposed to be good correct? Forgive my ignorance but what does the abbreviations like HTHS, PAO, HM, etc mean?
 
This is an interesting video on the CTS-V Cadillac 640 HP 6.2L ahead of an 8l90E. The reason I put this up, is because of the axle wind-up and wheel hop off the line you might experience with leaf springs and high traction tires. Also for the 8l90E engineering comments.

Someone more qualified can answer your PAO, HM, HTHS etc. questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlV97Esqwac
 
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Originally Posted By: Thetruck454
Now for the kicker, my truck is supercharged and puts around 500 horsepower to the wheels.


Does it still have the cylinder deactivation, multi-cylinder displacement ?
grin2.gif
 
Sounds like a great rig that you have...makes me feel like Mr Puniverse with my "baby" Colorado.

Originally Posted By: Thetruck454
Forgive my ignorance but what does the abbreviations like HTHS, PAO, HM, etc mean?


PAO - Polyalphaolefin...it, and esters are what "synthetic" used to mean, with PAO molecules being built up from smaller molecules found in Natural Gas.

GrIII - is Group Three Basestock. Can be made a number of ways. Taking dino oil and treating it with hydrogen and catalysts (a bit like they make margarine)...back in the day, one of the best was (well is) Shelll XHVI, which was made from a particularly uniform wax that they treated with hydrogen and catalysts. Now the darling is Natural Gas derived, where they combine natural gas molecules to create the wax, then break it.

Most synthetics are GrIII based these days...not saying that they don't have PAO and esters in them too, but they don't have to to be called synthetic.



As to HTHS, viscosity just used to be measured...basically oil falling through a tube, the resistance to flow was the viscosity. With the advent of multigrade engine oils that used polymers (Viscosity Index Improvers VII or VM Viscosity Modifiers) to thicken them up they found that engine wear wasn't matching up with what was expected from the grades.

Investigation revealed that at very high shear rates (bearings in particular), these polymers started to flatten out, and lose some of their thickening effect. So they started doing "High Temperature High Shear" testing, which is to basically look at what the oil is like in the big end bearing and set minimum limits for it.

It's really a reflection of what's going on inside the engine.

As an example of the vagaries of HTHS, here are a couple of grades and typicals.
Code:


Grade HTHS (Typical)

20W20 2.9

5W30 (ILSAC) 3.0-3.1

SAE30 3.4-3.6

5W30 Dexos 2 3.6 (could be ACEA C3, or A3/B4 as well)

0W40 3.8

15W40 4-4.3

SAE40 4.3+

SAE50 5.0+
 
In my post HM is Mobil 1 10/30 High Mileage. I changed my fleet to HM when the Jeep and 6.0 started dripping. I run the Mobil1 XX/?? (Insert special name here) in my 2010 Camaro. My 76 Jeep 232 I6 no longer leaks but I use the thickest Mobil 1 I can find in it. I get pressure even in cold winter temps and the oil has no issues pulling long climbs on hot days in summer.
 
I am not sure, but I think the naturally aspirated 6.2 Gen5 Camaro's MUST USE 0/20 otherwise oil will not flow in some ultra tight passages in the rotating assembly. My Camaro is hiding in a garage waiting for this wet death we are getting to go away. I will not drive it with a threat of hail.
I will look in the owners manual when next I drive the car. Maybe tomorrow.
 
Even though your supercharged version does not hit hard down low, it still hits harder than stock. That is long time duration (relative) rod forces that will tend to push oil off the journal and may get high enough pressure to actually get into Boundary Layer Lubrication. That's how blown motors spin bearings ...

The fix for this is oil that is robust enough to not get pushed away as easily. That is higher HTHS oil. So pick something in the 4.5 range, or above ... I know many folks will say I'm crazy, but SAE 30 HD has no plastic VII's and is in the range. It will work from Spring through Fall. Since I don't know how often you change oil ( ? ), I can't tell if this might work for you ...

Red Lines oils are dual rated. As in 30 and 10W-30. That's an artifact of them being synthetic and meeting multiple ratings. They are also pretty shear resistant. That's why racers run the stuff
laugh.gif


If a premium mono is not in the cards for you, I'd just go 0W-40 as in Castrol or Mobil1 and cruise on year round. They are both stout enough to live and easily obtainable
smile.gif


Note: 5W-30 and SAE 30 HD are not the same. They both claim 30 at op temp, but it's a different 30 ... See previous chart for HTHS by grade.
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeepplr
I am not sure, but I think the naturally aspirated 6.2 Gen5 Camaro's MUST USE 0/20 otherwise oil will not flow in some ultra tight passages in the rotating assembly. My Camaro is hiding in a garage waiting for this wet death we are getting to go away. I will not drive it with a threat of hail.
I will look in the owners manual when next I drive the car. Maybe tomorrow.

There is a tech document stating the same. GM sounds pretty adamant about the 0w20 being non-negotiable.
http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=2139
Quote:
SAE 0W-20 is the required viscosity grade for the 5.3L and 6.2L engines.

DO NOT use other viscosity grade oils such as SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50.
 
Too bad for adamant GM, but the 2018 SLT I ordered the other day (CC/SB 5.3L 8l90E & 3.42 9.76" diff) ain't getting 0W20.
The 4.3L V6 is a 5w30 engine, 15W50 is an optional viscosity in the Corvette 6.2L.
Our 2013 5.3L SLT (different engine) is coming up 100K miles with 10w30, 10w40, 15w40 and SAE30 in the crankcase.
The 2013 owner's manual is adamant about nothing other than Dexos 5w30.
Well designed engines are not fussy about viscosity grades as long as the winter grade matches the ambient
and the engine is allowed to warm up before working it hard.
 
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I take it that said engine is capable of operating all the way from cold start without incurring damage from off spec viscosity...

I read the linked article a little differently...use Dexos, it's what we want you to do...don't use other grades (BTW, they aren't Dexos)...didn't see anything that suggested an emphatic 0W20..
 
I forgot, 5w40 & 0w40 Duron has also been in the 2013. One UOA on 15w40 was better than expected.
Petro-Can publishes HTHS and NOACK for some of their engine oils. Synthetic PCMO, 5W30 has a higher flash point
and lower Noack than 0w30, and 10w30 trumps 5w30. In the same series, 5w20 trumps 0w20. All have identical additive
packages, only the viscosity is different between the grades.

I would imagine all the Dexos and Dexron licensing fees add up, even at a few pennies a liter.

www.lubricants.petro-canada.ca

Un-licensed 10w30 synthetic in the new truck might bankrupt GM.
 
Wow. They're really punching out the oil capacity on the new engines.

I also don't feel like the 0w-20 recommendation is about anything more than just pushing the Dexos.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Look, 500 horsepower to the wheels WITH a supercharger, dont even think about using a 30 weight. Anyone in this thread recommending a 5W30 weight (rolls eyes) has absolutely no knowledge of high horsepower applications.

Feel free to use 5W30 if you want a spun bearing.

Id start at Mobil 0W40 and go from there.

40 weight oils are not scary monsters to be afraid of.


Curiosity is getting the better of me. If a 30w oil seems to do quite well in a 13L turbocharged engine laying down 500 hp and 1850 lb of torque moving 80,000 lb of truck and load, nationwide, and racking up hundreds of thousands of failure free miles, why would it be such a terrible thing for the OP setup moving a Tonka Toy in comparison?

And there are a lot of dexos 5w30 oils around. The new dexos spec that is primarily going with 20w does not go into full effect till September and is design with the 2018 MY vehicles in mind. Since the OP's vehicle isn't in that category, one of the 30w dexos oils would work just fine.
 
tiredtrucker....

What's the HTHS of the 30 in your rig ?

what's the HTHS on an ILSAC 30 ???

What's the bearing dimensions and applied pressure (force over area) ?

Have asked these questions each time you pop up with the same meme...and you NEVER answer...
 
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