Rust Reformer confusion.

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There are two type of rust products. One converts the rust and you remove any of the stuff leftover after 15 minutes. Clean it with something like mineral spirits then prime and paint. The other products go on and form a hard coating that prevents oxygen from getting to the rust.

Under a car where it's exposed to mud, rocks, ice I would say keep with FF or CarWell.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
There are two type of rust products. One converts the rust and you remove any of the stuff leftover after 15 minutes. Clean it with something like mineral spirits then prime and paint. The other products go on and form a hard coating that prevents oxygen from getting to the rust.

Under a car where it's exposed to mud, rocks, ice I would say keep with FF or CarWell.


Would it work to use the rust converter first, then the hard coating oxygen blocker on top of that, then prime/paint, then Carwell?
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The products in the OP's link sound like the hard coating type
 
leaky seals,

Looking at the sds's, you seem to be right. They are not the same product. The spray product is oil/alkyd resin based and the bottle is latex/acrylic copolymer based. The spray product doesn't even mention tannic acid, which is the rust converter part. Both of the sds's were rewritten in 2015, so I doubt that the new sds format is the reason tannic acid is missing off of one (my first assumption).

Maybe a call to the company will clear this up.

Edit: Here's another link to the spray product where the TDS (not sds) claims that the "converter" is silane. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalo...-rust-reformer/
 
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