Stuck Oil Pan Gasket

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Hello everyone,

I have a 1997 Integra and I managed to remove the oil pan but the gasket is baked on like hard plastic? Are there any solvents I can soak it in for it to be easier to remove? I heard about using a blow torch but that is the last option, please see other questions below

Can I light the gasket on fire somehow?

Should I avoid a gasket scrapper?

What will really help to remove it best?

Thank you
 
Permatex gasket remover is not strong enough to eat the old gaskets; it's probably environmentally friendly. CRC Technician Grade gasket remover is great stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: Kool1
Permatex gasket remover is not strong enough to eat the old gaskets; it's probably environmentally friendly. CRC Technician Grade gasket remover is great stuff.


Yeah I saw that on amazon but unfortunately it is only available on amazon based on my location. I did see that the active ingredient was acetone and I am wondering if I could just buy acetone, soak it and get some progress maybe?
 
Using a razor blade gasket scraper won't hurt it at all. Use the dripping oil as a "lube" so the blade slides easier so it won't mar the surface.
 
Light on fire?
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no then the remaining oil could catch fire and it is Game Over.

Use a scraper; you might also need a small hammer and screwdriver.
 
Brake fluid in a syringe or dropper. If the gasket is stuck on the engine rather than the sump, so you're working overhead, it'll be awkward to apply and might drip on you, so..er..wear protection, especially for your eyes.

If you get a bit of separation, feed it between the gasket and whatever its stuck to and let it soak in a bit.

If its on the sump, should be pretty easy. Gentle heat/flame doesn't seem like much of a hazard in that situation (distant from petrol) but you probably won't need it.

Acetone might work but it flashes off quickly. Brake fluid doesn't, but you might not have any handy. Other possibilities are meths, petrol, diesel, kerosene and xylene, which are all slightly toxic.
 
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Thank you and everyone for your input. And the pan is off thr engine it is just the gasket that is baked on the pan. Also just wondering why brake fluid? Is it better at eating the old gasket? Should I also let it soak?

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Brake fluid in a syringe or dropper. If the gasket is stuck on the engine rather than the sump, so you're working overhead, it'll be awkward to apply and might drip on you, so..er..wear protection, especially for your eyes.

If you get a bit of separation, feed it between the gasket and whatever its stuck to and let it soak in a bit.

If its on the sump, should be pretty easy. Gentle heat/flame doesn't seem like much of a hazard in that situation (distant from petrol) but you probably won't need it.

Acetone might work but it flashes off quickly. Brake fluid doesn't.
 
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Originally Posted By: Juelz
Thank you and everyone for your input. And the pan is off thr engine it is just the gasket that is baked on the pan. Also just wondering why brake fluid and not brake cleaner? Should I also let it soak?

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Brake fluid in a syringe or dropper. If the gasket is stuck on the engine rather than the sump, so you're working overhead, it'll be awkward to apply and might drip on you, so..er..wear protection, especially for your eyes.

If you get a bit of separation, feed it between the gasket and whatever its stuck to and let it soak in a bit.

If its on the sump, should be pretty easy. Gentle heat/flame doesn't seem like much of a hazard in that situation (distant from petrol) but you probably won't need it.

Acetone might work but it flashes off quickly. Brake fluid doesn't.


As already stated brake fluid is non-volatile. This means its less of a health hazard and gets more of a chance to soak in, and its a generally good solvent for organics (hence the cautions about paint damage).

Volatile solvents, including brake cleaner, might work too, but perhaps not as well (hence the lack of cautions about paint damage). Diesel or kerosene (see edit above) might be an effective compromise. Just try whatever is handy.

I now keep my old brake fluid for this sort of thing. Since it absorbs water once opened, I probably would'nt buy it just for this kind of job.

OTOH you could change your brake fluid, if it hasn't been done for a while.
 
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Thanks, great info! I do have bottles of old brake fluid lying around. I was thinking of heavily soaking the gasket in brake fluid overnight and see what happens in the morning?

[/quote] [/quote]

As already stated brake fluid is non-volatile. This means its less of a health hazard and gets more of a chance to soak in, and its a generally good solvent for organics (hence the cautions about paint damage).

Volatile solvents, including brake cleaner, might work too, but perhaps not as well (hence the lack of cautions about paint damage). Diesel or kerosene (see edit above) might be an effective compromise. Just try whatever is handy.

I now keep my old brake fluid for this sort of thing. Since it absorbs water once opened, I probably would'nt buy it just for this kind of job.

OTOH you could change your brake fluid, if it hasn't been done for a while. [/quote]
 
I was even thinking of using an old baking tray and fill enough to cover the bottom and then turn the oil pan over in it overnight....or am I going to far? Haha
 
Originally Posted By: Juelz
I was even thinking of using an old baking tray and fill enough to cover the bottom and then turn the oil pan over in it overnight....or am I going to far? Haha


Probably not necessary, but used brake fluid is pretty expendable so why not?

I assume you have to renew the gasket?

I never do that unless I have to, but then I'm a notorious cheapskate.
 
I was thinking because I have about 3 old bottles and if it will only affect the silicone gasket why not? And I have a new gasket that I picked up from auto zone.
 
Originally Posted By: Juelz
I was thinking because I have about 3 old bottles and if it will only affect the silicone gasket why not? And I have a new gasket that I picked up from auto zone.


Silicone gasket? Ooer. I was assuming cork or paper.

Nothing will affect a silicone gasket. That's why they call it a silicone gasket.

Solvents might, however, attack whatever is sticking it to the pan and help you get it off.

A silicone gasket might have been formed in situ using an RTV-like gasket compound, or it might be bought pre-formed, though I havn't personally seen that, since I've never bought one.

Is your replacement silicone?

IF it was formed in situ and whoever did it de-greased the sump first it might be a real bugger to get off cleanly. You might end up just having to cut it flush with a razor blade, IF you have to get it off.

Personally, if it seems to be very resistant to coming off cleanly after a soaking I might leave it alone, though its hard to say without seeing it.
 
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That's a bummer and Yes my replacement is silicone and I definitely have to get it off since pieces of it have already been broken away trying to get it off. Also here is a link to mt replacement gasket: Gasket

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Juelz
I was thinking because I have about 3 old bottles and if it will only affect the silicone gasket why not? And I have a new gasket that I picked up from auto zone.


Silicone gasket? Ooer. I was assuming cork or paper.

Nothing will affect a silicone gasket. That's why they call it a silicone gasket.

Solvents might, however, attack whatever is sticking it to the pan and help you get it off.

A silicone gasket might have been formed in situ using an RTV-like gasket compound, or it might be bought pre-formed, though I havn't personally seen that, since I've never bought one.

Is your replacement silicone?

IF it was formed in situ and whoever did it de-greased the sump first it might be a real bugger to get off cleanly. You might end up just having to cut it flush with a razor blade, IF you have to get it off.

Personally, if it seems to be very resistant to coming off cleanly after a soaking I might leave it alone, though its hard to say without seeing it.
 
If the original was a pre-formed gasket, which your replacement suggests is likely, it should come off OK.

A formed in situ gasket might be more difficult.
 
Also would a plastic razor be safer to use on the aluminum oil pan than a metal scraper? And the original was preformed
 
I have a bench grinder with a wire wheel for such things. Also an old butt chisel. Its locking the barn after the hoss was stolen, but I stay away from heavy duty solvents. My last pan gasket was on a Jeep 360 V8. The worst part was getting the pan off. Also with an aluminum pan, you need to be careful with caustics. I recommend Permatex Aviation - Forma gasket to glue the the new gasket to the pan. Also you may need some black RTV around the seals.
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