Replacing the RTV sealed oil pan on 2004 Navigator

dumkid said:
hmm I'll have to add this to my bag of tricks, that's pretty smart. did it scratch anything?
Click to expand...
DK,
No scratches whatsoever. One likely needs to keep the gorilla cord on hand, IIRC I had to special order it, I purchased it when I lived in Utah in 2018.
 
GON said:
DK,
No scratches whatsoever. One likely needs to keep the gorilla cord on hand, IIRC I had to special order it, I purchased it when I lived in Utah in 2018.
Click to expand...
Their website specifically claims it's great for the Al-bodied F150s because it won't damage the body or cut pinch welds, which, allegedly, steel wire can do (I wouldn't know)
www.gtglass.com

Gorilla Cord Auto Glass Cutting Line 250 ft

[description] Gorilla Cord™ has been engineered and developed to provide maximum durability and strength while continuing to provide safety to the technician. Gorilla Cord™ is a new addition to GT Tools' family of auto glass cutting line. In addition to GT Tools' proprietary Zipline™ that...
www.gtglass.com www.gtglass.com
 
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I saw the cord cutting method used to remove cracked windshield to replace it.
I am not sure what kind of cord was used but it was certainly designed to remove windshield.
It may be the same cord.
 
GON said:
The 2004 Navigator I has a very minor oil leak. I suspect it is from the oil pan. When I went to remove the oil pan, I discovered the entire pan was connected to the block with gray silicone RTV. To the best of my knowledge, only four very small spots are supposed to get RTV applied when replacing the pan. When removing the blots that hold the pan, I discovered two front bolts were hand loose.
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Just to clarify, is there a gasket in place as well?
 
GON said:
Just a FYI, I ordered the Motorcraft RTV remover from Amazon. When I first searched for the remover on Amazon, the price came up at $27 and seven-10 days for shipping. I then did a google search for the remover, and now Amazon came back at $13.99 for the remover.

Funny how that works?
Click to expand...


Not being rude but I’ve had better luck removing RTV with brake clean and couple razor blades, then finish up with wire wheel. You’d be amazed how much more efficient this is.
 
PimTac said:
Just to clarify, is there a gasket in place as well?
Click to expand...
PT,

Yes- and there should have not been RTV/ silicone except at four spots, about a pea size worth of RTV total.

Whoever put the gasket on coated (bathed)the gasket to pan in RTV, and then also coated the gasket to block with RTV.

I just finished putting the new pan and gasket in. I could not have done this by myself with the Dorman HELP! Oil Pan Gasket Tool | MTM 45722. Sells on Amazon for 18.99, Orielly for 15.99, and Rock Auto for 9.99
unnamed.jpg
.

Here are pictures of the old gasket, and the new pan installed, and the Gasket tool.
PXL_20230121_195518717.jpg
PXL_20230121_195526233.jpg
PXL_20230121_195556980.jpg
unnamed.jpg
 
KrisZ said:
Sweet! Using that gorilla cord is a very clever trick. Thanks for sharing it with us.
I would’ve probably just used brute force since a new pan was going in.
Whatever gets the job done always gets my vote.
Click to expand...
KZ,

I was concerned if for some reason I could not get the pan off, but cracked/ damaged it, I would have bigger issues. Not like I can find a mechanic to remove a strongly stuck beat up oil pan so easy anymore. Times have changed. I work on the floor of my garage, with minimal height, so I have some constraints.

If I could do it again, maybe beat the daylights out of the pan with a big hammer with a small handle. But the gorilla cord worked, and only took about ten minutes and a bit of luck. I started the removal process, then worked OCONUS for a week, and thought about to remove the pan all week long.
 
Rob_Roy said:
Nice job. Is this the last of the leaks you were chasing?
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RR,

Two leaks, power steering fluid and motor oil. I am not sure I have solved either of them, but should know in the next few days.

If I could have done it again, I would have put the SUV on jack stands, cleaned all the leaking fluid, and studied the underside daily looking for stronger signs of the origin(s) of the leak.

Always learning. But I am thrilled to start removing all the dirt collected old oil and power steering fluid that has been spread on the underside of the SUV. I am hoping I can remove that old oil and keep the underside of the SUV clean from dirt absorbing oil.

One thing for note, so nice to work on a vehicle without rust/ corrosion. This SUV is absent of rust/ corrosion, makes doing many jobs quite a bit easier, and one doesn't mind putting in the time or money.
 
that cord trick reminded me of using fishing line to separate a battery pack on a MacBook Pro after using brake cleaner to soften the adhesive. I’ve seen Safelite now use an Equalizer string tool to take out windshields.

I say good work - I’ll try that next time I deal with RTV and I have access to run a cord. Though, I would get 40-50lb test braided like this - https://p-line.com/product/x-braid-green/
 
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