used vehicle purchase.

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: JustinH
Originally Posted By: Al
Check dipstick when cold. Thoroughly wipe it off and then install. Only read once. Further readings will be inaccurate.
If the dipstick is dark. Take fine sandpaper and make the end shiny. Makes a huge difference.

But why follow the OCI when you are using the wrong oil? No reason not to use 20 wt. Just an opinion.


Fill cap says 5w20.

Owners manual lists 3 oil grades as appropriate. 5w20, 5w30, 10w30.

Just purchased 5w30 chevron supreme on amazon for $11, and some OEM filters and washers. I will sample it at 3750 miles, and I'd bet I can be safe to run it longer than that.

Just want to get a baseline as to if I have any fuel in the oil, etc..



In our Elantra, I'm running 5w20 in the winter, and 5w30 in the summer. The owners manual supports doing this. With pennzoil synthetics i have been doing 7500 mile changes.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: JustinH
Originally Posted By: JTK
Looks great Justin! To me they've put a lot of thought into this car to compete and maybe even go beyond the Camry and Accord in some aspects. I'm assuming is a 4cyl and not V6? Which transmission? Is it serviceable?


Transmission has a drain and a fill plug. Does not look like a fun job to me. I have seen DIY's online, looks like a mess to do it at home. For a vehicle like this I will have it flushed every 50k.

Even though this one doesn't have a dipstick, the trans service is fairly easy. I can PM you with the details. The SP-4M fluid (updated) is the most expensive component at about $15/quart, and you'll need 10-12 for a thorough flush.

 

[JTK]

Yeah, I'm assuming it's got an obnoxious plastic belly pan that's got to come off to use the AT drain plug. I know drain/fills were easy on my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe.

 

[JustinH]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Originally Posted By: JTK
Looks great Justin! To me they've put a lot of thought into this car to compete and maybe even go beyond the Camry and Accord in some aspects. I'm assuming is a 4cyl and not V6? Which transmission? Is it serviceable?


Transmission has a drain and a fill plug. Does not look like a fun job to me. I have seen DIY's online, looks like a mess to do it at home. For a vehicle like this I will have it flushed every 50k.

Even though this one doesn't have a dipstick, the trans service is fairly easy. I can PM you with the details. The SP-4M fluid (updated) is the most expensive component at about $15/quart, and you'll need 10-12 for a thorough flush.


Thanks for that you can send me a PM if you have a moment. Thanks for doing that.

It seems to be similar to servicing a differential, fluid needs to be pumped in with a pump because there is no dipstick. I will do the first service at 50k miles and report back how it is. That is about 18 months away or more.

 

[JTK]

Justin, go with the Critic's PM, but what I do for refill is rig up a piece of flexible tubing and fill it from above, I-V style.

 

[road_rascal]

I was in California for a 2 week business trip and I rented a 2015/2016 Sonata. I was thoroughly impressed with it. Rode/ handled great, little wind noise and it got really decent mileage.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: road_rascal
I was in California for a 2 week business trip and I rented a 2015/2016 Sonata. I was thoroughly impressed with it. Rode/ handled great, little wind noise and it got really decent mileage.


Same here. Only complaints would be overall numbness of driving experience, and the engine in my particular car sounded like it had marbles in it when cold (not your typical direct injection clatter).

 

[SatinSilver]

Congrats on getting rid of the Rav4 with the rusty under carriage. I remember you mentioning that it went through many NY winters. Now you have a fresh slate so to speak with the Hyundai. Don't worry about a thing and enjoy it.

 

[doitmyself]

You Tube videos show the 2011 Sonata having a fill hole, drain hole, and level check hole:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Sonata+Transmission+Fluid+Change.


Here's a second link that shows adding fluid through the level check hole ("IV" style):

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2011-sonata-i45/174177-atf-drain-fill-pics-those-interested.html


And finally a link to the Kia Rio fluid change, which follows the You Tube procedure above (click on the Fluid Service Adjustment Procedure):

http://www.kirmanual.com/fluid_replacement-583.html


Hope this helps!

 

[JustinH]

Thanks all for the advise.

So on cold starts, I was getting startup rattle.

The oil in the crankcase smelled like fuel. Probably because the car sat at the dealer, and was just idled once in a while or short tripped by the salespeople.

I dumped the oil today and changed the filter.

Filter on there was a valvoline quicklube style filter, total wrong filter, totally different size than the OEM filter. I guess they are consolidating filters to fit a lot of cars.

One thing about the Mann built Hyundai OEM filters. This is the heaviest spin on filter I have seen in recent memory for a passenger car. Very well built. I bought six on the internet for $20 and got 6 crush washers as well, all OEM parts.

Refilled with $11 Chevron Supreme 5w30. Startup rattle is gone, and engine is very quiet. These hyundai engines sound almost agricultural in nature, much different than my toyotas, but it runs very smooth and is quiet.

I do not think I will be using 10w30 in this engine, as the warm viscosity figure between 5w30 and 10w30 is very close anyways.

I need to change out the air and cabin filters, and I will sample the oil after the second OCI. I am going to run 3750 OCIs on this vehicle because it is cheap and very simple to do ($14-$15 total cost for me).

The belly pan has two access ports, one for the spin on filter, and one for the oil drain plug. Literally a ten minute job.

I verified that this model has the enhanced engine warranty, to 10 years 120k miles. The 2011 built at the alabama plant had problems with debris in the engine, causing spun bearings. I looked on youtube, and I don't have a rod knock or anything funny sounding with the motor. However I do think a once a year oil sample sent to the lab would be worth doing.

Other than that car is fine. Think there is a worn bushing in the intermediate shaft, but it isn't bad yet. Also the dealer put on two very little wipers. They are not the correct length and they only wipe half of the windshield on the drivers side.

My mobile body shop guy is coming by my office next week to touch up about a dozen stone chips, and other than that I should be good to go.

Instead of spending my own money, I took out a little loan on this car, payment is $105 per month.