1999 Toyota Tercel, Amsoil SS 5W-30, 10,000km OCI

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Vehicle: 1999 Toyota Tercel
Mileage: 280,000 km (175,000 miles)
Oil: Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30
Miles on oil: 10,000km (6,200 miles)
Filter: Wix (black case)
Miles on Filter: 10,000km (6,200 miles)
No top-up oil.

I recently installed a Frantz oil filter (used a bunch of RTV when I dropped the oil pan and silicone tape during the installation process of the Frantz filter which I think explains the high Si). The toilet paper roll was not changed during the 10,000km interval. I discovered and fixed a vacuum leak from a rotten hose midway through the interval. I also got a VOA for the oil for oxidation numbers. Particle Count was using a laser optical (ISO4406) methodology. Lab was Metro Tech Systems in Canada. I've never put oil in for more than 10,000km but I think I'll keep this one in for another 10,000 with a new tp roll and filter (and about a quart top-up), maybe get another UOA then. I'm happy with what I see.

Code:


Used Virgin

Metals:

Tin 0 0

Lead 1 0

Copper 2 0.2

Aluminum 1 1

Silicon 75 2



Iron 3 1

Chromium 0 0

Silver 0 0

Zinc 769 794

Magnesium 14 15



Nickel 0 0

Barium 0 0

Sodium 1 4

Calcium 2000+ 3428

Vanadium 0 0



Phosphorus 675 689

Molybdenum 132 140

Boron 104 241

Manganese 0 0



Physical Properties:

Vis (D445) @ 100C 10.49 10.88

Water (D4007) (% v/v) 0 0

Glycol No

Fuel Dilution No



Other Properties:

Base No. (D2896) 8.43 12.44

Oxidation 6.89

Nitro Compounds 3.06

Organic Nitrates 14.54

Particle Count (ISO 4406) 19/17/14 17/14/10
 
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It looks fine for only 6200 miles on a top of the line oil. FWIW, I take my 1NZ-FE well over 10,000 miles on plain M1, the few UOAs I have done on that engine also showed good results. Do you know what quantity of make-up oil will be required when you change out the roll? What is the total capacity, 4 quarts?

Is your Tercel one of the last ones built or do you live outside the US?
 
I am guessing a change of the TP roll and full flow filter will need about 1 quart of makeup oil, more or less. Other than that the car hasn't really lost any. Sump capacity pre-TP is 3L, about 4L with the TP.
 
Yep, plan is to change the TP and full flow (I'll switch to a Fram Ultra), top up, and re-test at 20,000km.
smile.gif
 
In what way can you determine whether the bypass filter is doing anything above and beyond the full-flow filter?

Or wasn't that part of what you're looking at?
 
Moreso I'm seeing how far Amsoil can go in this setup since my pattern so far has been to change oil every 10,000km (easy to remember when the Odo flips over). It's nice to see low wear with the TP filter, though causality cannot be confirmed with that alone. I did get a UOA on my pre-tp set-up, which had a particle count of 24/21/17 and Fe wear at 14. Those numbers I thought were unusually high, though. I suppose if I wanted to double-check, I could disable the flow to the TP filter for 10,000km and re-test next oil change.
 
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6,200 miles on Amsoil is wasting good oil. Why run Amsoil it seems like a misapplication ? While the need for a Bypass filter in a passenger car application may be almost nonsense in real life benefits they can be fun to see how well they work.
 
Yo, Judgey McJudgerson: If you read my post a bit more carefully you'll find I still have the same oil in the sump. This was a part-way analysis to see how the oil is holding up after 10,000km, next analysis is planned at 20,000km. I was a little nervous and had doubts as to how the oil was holding up, hence the UOA. The bypass was just that - fun. Which you're kind of taking away from me.
 
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Good luck on your adventure; I'm also running bypass filtration and I'll tell you what I'm planning to do when I change the filter cartridge (roll of TP in your case)...Bought a gram scale from ebay for about $10...I'm planning to quickly place the USED filter cartridge in a ziploc bag and weigh it, subtract the weight of a new filter cartridge, and Vola! I will have the weight of the OIL needing to be added at filter change time. This same method can be used on the full flow filter...

Of course this needs to be verified by way of dipstick, but the closer you can get by measuring (weighing) once or twice, the less guesswork to be done next filter change.
 
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