Fuel Additives DO WORK: Here's Proof

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^^ This picture was taken nearly 20,000 Miles ago when I switched my intake. The car is a 1998 Hyundai Tiburon with 118K miles.

The pictures below were taken today when I swapped manifolds back again. I have not removed the assembly before today and have only used the following fuel additives:

1) Techron X 2
2) Seafoam through the vaccuum hose X 2
3) FP 60 1/2 Gallon
4) Lucas UCL X 5oz.

I was EXTREMELY happy to see that most of the ports looked like new. The little carbon that remained was EASILY misted away by Seafoam.

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Why did you use so many different things? I wish somebody would do a test(with pictures) with FP60 and ONLY FP60!
 
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=004293

I remember that picture. Just continue using a product. I prefer the per 3k/3mo products since I'm too lazy to dose at every tank.
For those that like per tank dosing, FP/MMO/Lucas/Lubrigas are some to try.

Those expensive decarbon-type on vehicle fuel splicing FI/intake/MAF servicings will also make everything clean up quickly. How simple it is to avoid the expense!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Titan:
04SpecV, I agree. When are you going to do it for us?
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I dont drive enough. Maybe in about 15 years I will have enough miles to check my intake to see if its clean.
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^^ Last one sees straight into the track. I use several products because I believe that each chemistry will have it's unique affect on the car. I was right.
 
with all said and done, that looks like an easy engine to work on.

Wish my intake was that easy to work on.
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It's hard to determine which caused what.
Maybe the new intake manifold helped - there would be different speeds, routing, and maybe the temperature of gasses.
 
Just measured my fuel mileage. Over the last 45 days my mileage has gradually risen from an all time low of 22.5 mpgs to 32 mpg.

This can be atributed to new wheel bearings, replacement of a seized caliper, a choked Cat converter and an healthy engine.

Needless to say, I'm smiling.
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Ive been using Chevron w/Techron fuel additive
once every 6 months (once in July, and once in Decemember along with using brand name 87 octane from Shell or BP or Mobil on occassion.
Will this keep my fuel system clean enough to ensure I enver ahve fuel system related issues? Or should I use an additive more often?
 
Looks good, but remember that crud is also upstream in the intake and a fuel add does nothing. Intake cleaner is the only way to go. Especially those of us with injectors that spray more at the back of the intake valve. Combustion chamber deposits would be where I'd be concerned.
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:
Looks good, but remember that crud is also upstream in the intake and a fuel add does nothing. Intake cleaner is the only way to go. Especially those of us with injectors that spray more at the back of the intake valve. Combustion chamber deposits would be where I'd be concerned.

The Chevron/Techron additvie claims to take care of that I beleive. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Screwdriver:
a choked Cat converter

I was about to post that you better look for the reason for that reversion, but it looks like you found it. You also better look for the cause of the sooted cat.

Also, fuel will wet the intake manifold well upstream of the injector location. The wave-action in the intake runners is powerful to say the least.
 
After 20,000 miles the new Intake Manifold was spotless. I'm convinced that the problem had to do with PCV venting. (I have since replaced the PCV valve).

The deposits only remained in the intake ports as pictured above. And they were nearly gone.

Rodbuckler, I don't have any theories as to why the cat clooged. Old age + 100K miles perhaps? Or perhaps a defective part? (There was a recall on cracked converter manifolds and mine was cracked when I took it off).

I think I will stop using the stronger additives henceforth and stick to FP 60 every other tank or so and the occasional Lucas UCL.
 
I bet the EFI system sooted the cat because of lazy O2 sensor or partially clogged injectors or other malfunction that caused a false lean signal. A cracked exhaust manifold might have done the deed.

You should run the FP or UCL all the time. There is no sense in letting the surfaces dry out, or not providing constant lube for the valve seats and injectors, etc. I run about 1:600 with the Lucas UCL.
 
Doubt it. Before that crud resembled the residue of 30 year used military frying pan.

Yesterday, just a couple sprays of Seafoam washed it away in no time.
 
It sound like fixing the PCV system got rid of the source of crud that contaminated the ports.
I use additives, BTW, and of course know that parts will be cleaner with them.
In this case, fixing a mechanical problem helped greatly [PCV and a new clean manifold].
 
Yea, the PCV system is a really crucial part of a clean engine.

I would wager a bet that 60-70% of the sludge problems encountered is due to people not cleaning or replacing the PCV valve regularly and cleaning the PCV tubing out for blockages.
 
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