Seafoam with synthetic oil?

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The oil I have in my car now ('01 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT, 55k miles) has 10w-30 Amsoil- which is 8 months old and has 4k miles on it. Before doing the next oil change in a week, would it be ok to put in 1/3 bottle Seafoam just to get a quick cleansing for about 200 miles? Just wondering how this stuff mixes fine with synthetic...
 
Oh, seafoam isn't going to hurt anything. It's not going to really help either. It's really just higher priced, less minty marvel mystery oil. Seafoam has an undeserved reputation for being a strong solvent. Besides, it'd probably just flash off anyway. At least somewhat seeing as how one of the main ingredients is rubbing alcohol. I've always done a quick flush w/ Berryman Chemtool B-12. It is harsher but it's still nothing that has ever, ever, ever, hurt anything on any car of mine.
 
With any light flush solvent in crankcase, recommend you fast idle for twenty minutes and then drain, replace filter and oil.

There are better and more gentle cleaners out there, such as Auto-RX and LC.
 
What's in Seafoam that's even going to be there in 20 minutes after exposure to a hot engine? Anytime I've added it hot all I got was a vapor cloud out the filler hole.
 
I would stick up for seafoam, but really it shouldnt be used as an oil supplement or cleaner its made for combustion chambers and valve's.
 
If you want to put something in the crankcase, I'd say use MMO or Rislone for ~700 miles. http://www.rislone.com/engine-data.htm 700 miles seems to work according to the Rislone test data. I'd like to try it, but can't find the small engine treatment bottle, only the full quart to use at the oil change and I don't want to run it for a full OCI.
 
quote:

I was curious too about Seafoam in the crankcase...seems nobody really knows

I think all the info on Seafoam is there, you just have to be able to sort thru all the comments in the posts.

Molakule probably just gave an A+++ rated recommendation on the subject, in post #5 of this thread - re-read his comments.

Since Seafoam is solvent based & volatile, running it in the engine for longer than 20 minutes is a waste, since the naptha & IP alcohol will flash off from the high engine temperature.

Any deposits dissolved by the solvents in Seafoam will just re-attach to new engine surfaces as the solvents evaporate.

That's why Seafoam belongs in the 5 minute quick-flush product category.
 
quote:

Any deposits dissolved by the solvents in Seafoam will just re-attach to new engine surfaces as the solvents evaporate.

Nope, sorry. I can dispute that from firsthand experience. I dissolved some sludge in chemtool and mmo and once the chemtool evaporated, the sludge particles remained in suspension in the mmo.
 
quote:

I would stick up for seafoam, but really it shouldnt be used as an oil supplement or cleaner its made for combustion chambers and valve's.

excerpt from Seafoam website:
quote:

Pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint into oil crank case to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture.

According to their respective MSDSs:
Seafoam is pale oil, naptha, and isopropyl alcohol. MMO is Diclorobenzene, mineral spirits, and naptha.

Actually, MMO, with dichlorobenzene (an aromatic hydrocarbon similar to xylene and toluene) may have an edge over SeaFoam in solvency! There must not be much...

Technically, you could consider both the pale oil in seafoam and the mineral spirits in MMO as compounds which will affect viscosity since neither will burn off as quickly as the other compounds. However, I'd imagine in a relatelively small amount, neither would be particularly harmful overall.
 
As a flush, dump a whole bottle into a cold engine for 5-10 minutes with no load or driving.

For a distance run, add 1 ounce of Seafoam for every quart of oil. Run as long as you want. Don't exceed 1.5 ounces per quart for extended use!

Once its mixed with the oil, it shouldn't "flash" or be harsh. It'll just slowly clean.
 
Dont waste the Seafoam in the crankcase.

Suck it in though the PCV vac line and decarbonize the combustion chambers, replace PCV with an oem Mitsu piece, and then change oil to Syn.

SeaFoam Deep Creep would be better, you can do a piston soak, while changeing the spark plugs, then use the rest of the aerosol can through the vac line..........
 
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Once its mixed with the oil, it shouldn't "flash" or be harsh. It'll just slowly clean.

Try taking some and pouring into a clear container w/ oil. You can watch it slowly boil off. It still has a low flash point. But I agree, it's not very harsh. I've been saying that in a few threads.
 
As far as using Seafoam in the combustion chamber through the PCV valve, do you get the same benefit by using in in the fuel if it is highly concentrated?

Would the Techron Concentrate not perform the same action? I hate the idea of doing the PCV method. IS there no alternative?

[ January 08, 2006, 01:34 AM: Message edited by: jdmboy ]
 
Take a full bottle of Seafoam and dump it into a full tank(or fillup) of fuel. Also, any other FI cleaner(Redline/Amsoil/Regane/Techron......) can be used. That is the BEST way to use Seafoam or B12 or........

If you want the hassle of pulling vacuum hoses, possibly causing SESs/CELs, then you can do a vacuum line neighborhood smoking. IMO, not needed but in some cases could do some good.

Seafoam can be used in the motor oil for certain periods of time in either of these "2" ways.
1. A full bottle can be used as a 5-10 minute cold engine idle no load flush.
2. 1-1.5 ounces can be added per each quart of oil for any 'normal' OCI.
 
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