Engine Restore with CLS

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What is it? I have used it in the past on a few high milage motors with good results. Is it the same as LuBorn Boron CLS? Is it trash? DaveJ
 
do a search on restore...

i dont like it...it looks like metal..lol i think robnitro had a high count of metal or something in his analysis...it was good for me, but after about 2500 miles my car ran like junk.
 
quote:

Originally posted by digitaldrifter91:
do a search on restore...

i dont like it...it looks like metal..lol i think robnitro had a high count of metal or something in his analysis...it was good for me, but after about 2500 miles my car ran like junk.


If memory serves me, it does have a soft metal make-up.
I say use it when the engine is trashed or running real ragged... can't hurt, right. I have had luck on dead engines with it before.
 
Yeah, my analysis said there was a lot of lead and copper. Everything else was fine! On the next drain and fill the copper and lead dropped a lot. So I'm thinking restore is lead and copper (and other metals?) that sort of act like a stop leak but not for holes, but surface abrasions.

I had no change from using it. I just used it because I was additive crazy at the time. Good thing I didn't use ptfe tho!
 
quote:

Originally posted by robnitro:
Yeah, my analysis said there was a lot of lead and copper. Everything else was fine! -*-*

Maybe some copper, silver and antimonite i.e. zinc and tin???, but the question is HOW well will these stick to the worn metal? Moly is better with a good formula, than this, although not as thick. Bet you better start changing the oil a lot more often though!
 
Also, since the bottle itself said to shake it before putting it in, I bet the metals weren't fully miscible. So they will settle out of oil probably, which means they aren't as integral to the oil, like a ZDDP or moly additive. It seems like how PTFE would act in an oil, but without the issues of PTFE.

I think it sticks to metal easier than the metallic oil additives would (like ZDDP, moly) because it may not need as much heat to plate up, but its more like spreading warm butter over bread, where it fills up the little holes in the bread. I think that is what makes it not last too long though, because its not really chemically bonded to the metal, it's more like temporary that scrapes off eventually, returning compression back to previous levels?
 
quote:

Originally posted by robnitro:
Also, since the bottle itself said to shake it before putting it in, I bet the metals weren't fully miscible. So they will settle out of oil probably, which means they aren't as integral to the oil, like a ZDDP or moly additive. It seems like how PTFE would act in an oil, but without the issues of PTFE.

I think it sticks to metal easier than the metallic oil additives would (like ZDDP, moly) because it may not need as much heat to plate up, but its more like spreading warm butter over bread, where it fills up the little holes in the bread. I think that is what makes it not last too long though, because its not really chemically bonded to the metal, it's more like temporary that scrapes off eventually, returning compression back to previous levels?


I have use it. It is Blue, and medium thin/thick
kinda oily/sticky but you can feel a handful of grit (metal) heck you can see it with poor eyesight.
As far as sticking BETTER than moly. NO, I doubt that to the N'th degree. I have seen an engine apart that had Moly run in it, and it looks like part of the steel... It looks like steel itself, if you wouldn't know what it was you may think it's just super shiny and smooth steel.
 
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