I can not remember who it was. I thought it was cryptokid but I could be wrong. They had the really red varnish and it was thick. They were going to run Auto-RX and report back to the group. Has anyone heard anymore about this???? THe photo's were so good that I have been eager to see his results. With it being over head cam the entire head and valve cover should get plenty of oil splashed on it.
Anyone remember the red varnished and sludged engine that was going to try Auto-RX??
- Thread starter JohnBrowning
- Start date
- Status
Some people on this board know that my brothers and I have 4 of the largest used car lots in Florida and a staff of 6 mechanics and Auto-Rx has saved us "lots"
of money and made our customers very happy. According to a post I read it took care of your transmission problems. Why worry about varnish on valve covers, I'm more concerned about crud and debris on engine parts. Why aren't you?
The Pammer, It was not just the valve cover. The picture was off the head mostly. The head, timeing chain, cam and all associated componets had the heaviest varnish I have ever seen on an engine in over 14 years in the auto industry. I was also amazed that the amount of varnish was disproportionet(sp) to the amount of visable sludge. Seeing how it was the best close up pictures of someones dirty head before Auto-Rx I am very interested in the results. I am also interested because his engine is over head cam and Frank was adiment that Auto-Rx would do the trick because of the high amount of oil flow and splash to his valvetrain. So far all of us with OHV engines have had no results in removeing varnish from head or valve train componets. My valve train has roller rockers and I am interested in the long term effects of varnish on service life( localized hot spots) and possable methods of cleaning them with out head valve cover removal. PammerI did not have any problems that were fixed by Auto-RX in my transmission. I used Auto-RX in my transmission as a preventive action to reduce any future fialure issues caused by the possable build up of third party abrasives. Auto-RX did just what Frank said it would do wich is clean third party abrasives. I am very pleased with it in my transmission. I am till undecided though on the engine as I did not use the optimal application methods for the engine so the effects could have been deminished. This time I made sure I had at least 1500 miles on the dino oil after the initial treatment was drained out. Seeing how I was a tech for a long time I am a doubting Thomas when it comes to additves. I have seen to many over hyped products to jump on board at the first sign of positive results. I saw enough with the transmission to recomend it but I am still interested in how well it works and what it's limatations are? I am also woundering how consistently it produces the results we see on the RX site. I am sure we have all seen the weight loss adds with fine print "Results Not Typical" at the bottom of the page! The very idea of a product that cleans third party abrasives and is gentel on seals is so revolutionary that I want to see all the before and afters I can get my hands on. I do not see how my interest in someone else results is anything but a good thing for the board in general. If the results are good which Frank seemed rather confident about then it is also good for Auto-RX!! If it can clean the varnish and sludge out of that head and valve cover then it can clean just about anything!!!!
I wish I had pictures of the crud that came out of my engine for you, John. I had an almost fully clogged PVC valve and was burning oil. Even though I'd hit only the "low" mark (on a long road trip) on the dipstick, I think there was some baking of oil going on in the crankcase. I ran a treatment of ARX through and then cut open the filter. Believe me, you could literally dig the black crud out of the pleats of the filter with a nail. I wish I had a digital camera.
The pics would tell the whole story.
Thanks Toy 4x4 photo jouralism is at a new low with some peoples agenda for anything negative
and again thanks for stepping to the plate.
Frank
and again thanks for stepping to the plate.
Frank
As much as I hate to do this I am going to share a little board politics.
Crypto Kid did not follow our board rules so at this time he was banned. I had no real issues with him or his posts and hope that he'll get back on but I'm not going to just allow people to step on these rules and just ignore them. It's very simple. Many times I might like to make a comment or suggest or explain something on the side without posting this sort of thing on the board. As an Admin, I MUST HAVE a way to contact you that is valid. Let me quote this from our rules...
You have the ability, as you register, to choose your user-name. We advise that you keep the name appropriate. With this user account you are about to register, you agree to never give your password out to another member, for your protection and for validity reasons. You also agree to NEVER use another member's account to post messages or browse this forum.
After you register and log into this forum, you can fill out a detailed profile. It is your responsibility to present clean and accurate information. Any information we deem inaccurate or vulgar will be removed.
In his case, I sent to personal PM's to him and many know, it will show if they read it. After 2wks, it showed not read. Definitely not responded to. I then also emailed him on his email address, again, to date no response. I've heard through sources that he plans on not coming back for what ever reason I do no know as I had not even told him why I banned him so he has made no effort to understand what my problem was with him. Banning is the only way to contact him without posting on the board but since he's unable to comply, and has a fear of contacting me then I am to assume it will be permanent. Sorry if this isn't suitable but we want intelligent, no game playing good people on here and none that will not abide by what we ask. Mr Troy Heagy also fell into this group of game playing and has made several efforts to get around us, one being rcmoderler and we found a list of over 20+fititious email addresses. We go to great lengths to keep the game players off of here and not cause problems as this isn't a toy but a place that I as many others want to enjoy and learn so if and when I try to contact anyone and they do not respond if called for, then be assured that this will happen again. We do not use email address for anything but what it is intended for and you can hide your valid email address from everyone except me. I should be allowed the courtesies to be able to contact you if needed.
Hope that explains the deal. Any other questions on this issue, you can contact me directly by pm or email
bob
[ June 13, 2003, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
Crypto Kid did not follow our board rules so at this time he was banned. I had no real issues with him or his posts and hope that he'll get back on but I'm not going to just allow people to step on these rules and just ignore them. It's very simple. Many times I might like to make a comment or suggest or explain something on the side without posting this sort of thing on the board. As an Admin, I MUST HAVE a way to contact you that is valid. Let me quote this from our rules...
You have the ability, as you register, to choose your user-name. We advise that you keep the name appropriate. With this user account you are about to register, you agree to never give your password out to another member, for your protection and for validity reasons. You also agree to NEVER use another member's account to post messages or browse this forum.
After you register and log into this forum, you can fill out a detailed profile. It is your responsibility to present clean and accurate information. Any information we deem inaccurate or vulgar will be removed.
In his case, I sent to personal PM's to him and many know, it will show if they read it. After 2wks, it showed not read. Definitely not responded to. I then also emailed him on his email address, again, to date no response. I've heard through sources that he plans on not coming back for what ever reason I do no know as I had not even told him why I banned him so he has made no effort to understand what my problem was with him. Banning is the only way to contact him without posting on the board but since he's unable to comply, and has a fear of contacting me then I am to assume it will be permanent. Sorry if this isn't suitable but we want intelligent, no game playing good people on here and none that will not abide by what we ask. Mr Troy Heagy also fell into this group of game playing and has made several efforts to get around us, one being rcmoderler and we found a list of over 20+fititious email addresses. We go to great lengths to keep the game players off of here and not cause problems as this isn't a toy but a place that I as many others want to enjoy and learn so if and when I try to contact anyone and they do not respond if called for, then be assured that this will happen again. We do not use email address for anything but what it is intended for and you can hide your valid email address from everyone except me. I should be allowed the courtesies to be able to contact you if needed.
Hope that explains the deal. Any other questions on this issue, you can contact me directly by pm or email
bob
[ June 13, 2003, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
ThePammer you are way off base and could not be farther from the mark! When have you posted a question that I have attacked? When have I attacked your responce to another member question? You have done both to me on more then one occassion.You did not even bother to attempt to answere my question! Instead you just piped up to take cheap shots at me wich seems to be your method of operation. I fail to see how my interest in a now former members promise to followup with his application of the most talked about additive on this site obfuscate's anything!! I must also add that his photos were bar none the best before pictures posted on this subject that I have seen. I do not see how my interest in a product that I have bought and am still useing obfuscate anything! My only agenda is to see as many before and after shots of Auto-RX as I can get ahold of. I especialy like ones from members of this site as I see them as being totaly unbiased. I have a genuine interest in the product and what it can do. Please explain how I am makeing things obscure. P.S. !!!!! does not equal screaming or yelling in post.
I had to look this one up
:
obfuscate: To make so confused or opaque as to be difficult to perceive or understand: “A great effort was made... to obscure or obfuscate the truth” (Robert Conquest).
Anyway, I disagree. As I see it John tries to do just the opposite - research things thoroughly until they're forced to show both their plusses and their minuses. I believe this to be a good thing, since it helps keep discussions active, and that helps keep things balanced and honest for all of us.
So far, Auto-Rx has shown all up-side, but life experience generally shows that most things have a down-side. Frank spends a fair amount of time on this board, apparently defending Auto-Rx. In my opinion, this defense is totally unnecessary, since the product is thoroughly respected by almost everyone on this board. And worse, an unneeded defense tends to imply that there really is a hidden down-side...
Anyway, just my opinions...
obfuscate: To make so confused or opaque as to be difficult to perceive or understand: “A great effort was made... to obscure or obfuscate the truth” (Robert Conquest).
Anyway, I disagree. As I see it John tries to do just the opposite - research things thoroughly until they're forced to show both their plusses and their minuses. I believe this to be a good thing, since it helps keep discussions active, and that helps keep things balanced and honest for all of us.
So far, Auto-Rx has shown all up-side, but life experience generally shows that most things have a down-side. Frank spends a fair amount of time on this board, apparently defending Auto-Rx. In my opinion, this defense is totally unnecessary, since the product is thoroughly respected by almost everyone on this board. And worse, an unneeded defense tends to imply that there really is a hidden down-side...
Anyway, just my opinions...
Your right. Some of my posts do look like they are defensive. My chemo shot is due and as Bob, Terry, Rich knows, diplomacy is not my strong suit. Spartane, I just really have a hard time with people who hide there idenity and profess to be acting for the common good and their only credentials are that they are professional incompentents, they take up space. Obfuscates is to kind a word.
Hi guys.
I believe you might be talking about my engine.
here
and here
I was going to try Auto R/x and report back but after the accusations by Frank and others claiming I had an "agenda" I felt it wasn't worth the effort.
If Auto R/x worked I am sure Frank would love to take credit for it but if it didn't I strongly believe Frank or others would accuse me of "rigging" the test to make him look bad.
I don't need the headache.
[ June 13, 2003, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: Aaron ]
I believe you might be talking about my engine.
here
and here
I was going to try Auto R/x and report back but after the accusations by Frank and others claiming I had an "agenda" I felt it wasn't worth the effort.
If Auto R/x worked I am sure Frank would love to take credit for it but if it didn't I strongly believe Frank or others would accuse me of "rigging" the test to make him look bad.
I don't need the headache.
[ June 13, 2003, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: Aaron ]
John,
I think that the red varnish circles from the crytokid were a result of poor exhaust valve seal. To me they look like the effect of incomplete combustion deposits that made the perfect circles above the exhaust valves, on the valve cover. My thinking is that the seals or the exhaust valves themselves are the culprit in the defined markings on the valve covers. To correct this situation, the exhaust valves need to fuction properly. Until this occurs, the circular marks will continue. I'm only looking at pictures, but to me it looks like alot of heat caused these marks, ala poor valve seal. My guess is that ARX will help the valve seals, then putting the problem into a potential cleaning mode. If the valves are bad, the problem will continue and is likely that the seals are shot. Polymer seals will only hang in there for a short while if the actuals valves are not sealing during the exhaust stroke.
I think that the red varnish circles from the crytokid were a result of poor exhaust valve seal. To me they look like the effect of incomplete combustion deposits that made the perfect circles above the exhaust valves, on the valve cover. My thinking is that the seals or the exhaust valves themselves are the culprit in the defined markings on the valve covers. To correct this situation, the exhaust valves need to fuction properly. Until this occurs, the circular marks will continue. I'm only looking at pictures, but to me it looks like alot of heat caused these marks, ala poor valve seal. My guess is that ARX will help the valve seals, then putting the problem into a potential cleaning mode. If the valves are bad, the problem will continue and is likely that the seals are shot. Polymer seals will only hang in there for a short while if the actuals valves are not sealing during the exhaust stroke.
Aaron that is the pic I was talking about!!!! Yes you are the person I was looking for. Thanks for posting it for those that might have missed it the first time around. I printed that image off on photo paper to show my Dad. I was hopeing to be able to show him an after photo. He is a hard sell. He has an old 1982 Toyota Starlet that might benifit from Auto-Rx. I am just going to try Nuetra 131 or lube control in it instead. I can safely report my findings good or bad on my experinces on this with out being accused of anything so sinister as an agenda. I too thought that the point of these boards was to stimulate friendly discussion and exchange experinces! So if I have an agenda besides shareing everything I think I know freely with the other members what is it? I may not have all the answeres but any thing I think I know I share for free and I always accept correcton when I am wrong. An agenda would imply a plan or list of things to be carried out, voted on or acted upon. I am not the one that attacks people or their posts. I am not the one marketing a product. I am not the one that drives off customers with a verbal stick if they ask too many questions. You know we are potential consumers not chemist's. We only see what is presented her and on other sites. It is difacult for a consumer to get any unbiased information other then from other consumers! We do not have the inside track that some moderators and site sponsors have had with this product. Some of us have a strong drive to understand things not just accept things. If I was a disgruntled customer I would ask for my money back but I have not have I Frank? I have not attacked the product either I have only reported my experinces one being rather positive the other being nuetral. Again I ask what in the world is my agenda besides shareing freely with others???
Auto-Rx cares about valve trains not valve covers
what else do you need to know it works as advertised.
larry K.
Junior Member
Member # 143
posted July 11, 2002 02:18 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2533a, As promised, here I am, home from work and its after midnight. Wow I didn't know there was such a controversy going on between two products. And to be honest, I don't know anything about the Neutra product. And the only thing I know about Auto-Rx is what I was able to observe during my own use of the product. I'm not a chemist or an engineer either. BTW, I also do not own any stock in Auto-Rx nor am I a relative of the owner.
Let me kinda start over. I'm a member of the Ford-diesel website. We're just a bunch of guys (roughly 20,000 members US & Canada) who get together on a website to help each other out with the care and feeding of our vehicles. Fords, mostly pickups (some vans) with Navistar diesel engines in them.
I've owned my '96 F-250 since new and have over 276K miles on it. I'm almost 7 years from retirement and the wifie says no new truck 'til then. So I'm off on a major campaign "to make it last". It will do it. The first 200K miles was put on in the first two years, the rest was in the last four. Its been a good truck, but needs some work, like new exhaust, front springs,ball joints,etc. The one thing it DOESN"T need is a new engine. I had switched to Amsoil x-mission fluid after a trannie re-build at 132K miles. With another 144K+ miles and still no trannie trouble, I've decided to switch All fluids over to Amsoil. (except windshield fluid and the Batts are sealed)
I had commented in several posts on the F-D website as to my intentions to go for extended engine oil changes. I have a neighbor who has over 80K miles on truck since his last oil change. Its still going strong and oil analyisis STILL does not indicate a need for an oil change. I've heard other members with over 100K miles without an oil change.
A fellow member suggested I check out the Auto-Rx website. I did, but didn't feel the need for a "engine cleaning" as I always been faithful in giving my truck "the best of care". I was, however, going to use the solvent type engine flush from Amsoil. Geees, you'd thought I'd let a pig loose in a crowd or something. I was finally convinced that a solvent type cleaner was not the way to go.
The Auto-Rx way was going to be expensive. At $25 a bottle, it was going to cost me $50 to clean my engine. OH No, I wasn't clear yet on things. Because our engines have an oil capacity of 14 qts, I needed TWO bottles for ONE treatment. And with my high mileage, TWO TREATMENTS (four bottles) were required. Make it FIVE bottles ($125) as I wanted to clean the trannie too. I was not liking this at all. I really thought there was no way my engine was as dirty as everyone thought. I cut open my oil filters once in a while and was impressed on how much crap was being removed. When I had the valve covers off, I was impressed how clean enerything was. WOW, things looked like new (almost) yet. A very small (3/4" x 4") stain on the inside of the valve cover.
Finally, I rationalized. Hey, I'm puttin' almost $4000 in the truck (with gauges & all) whats another $125 to ensure a clean engine?? Well, I forgot, I also needed $65 in oil filters because EACH treatment included filter changes every 250 miles to make sure there was enough filter material to collect all the crud from my "clean" engine.
To prove to myself how stupid I was being, I cut open each oil filter to see that there wasn't that much junk being collected. And with the last couple of filters, there wasn't. But on the first four, I was amazed the amount of just plain crap that was being removed. If I had used a solvent flush and all that stuff was put in suspention all at once....I don't know what the consequences would have been. I do know a solvent type flush or cleaner has NO lubricating qualities. Nor would the crap that was flushed out.
My understanding is that Auto-Rx does have lubricating qualities and does not brake down the oil the way an alcohol or petroleum solvent product would.
Am I sorry I spent $125 for Auto-Rx, PLUS $65 for filters?? NO WAY!!! For what it did and the way it did it... I'm not saying "it was cheap". I'm saying it was SAFE, EFFECTIVE and WELL WORTH THE PRICE. And I just ordered another bottle to clean the engine in my wifes Honda. And a bunch of filters.
In my book, the higher the mielage on a vehicle, the more you need Auto-Rx and not a solvent type flush.
Thirty years ago I bought my first new vehicle, a '70 Plymouth Duster. I used a product called Reslone. That product replaced one quart of oil and was put in at every oil change. At 108K miles I tore the car apart to paint it a different color. I put the engine on an engine stand and removed the oil pan and bearing caps. After noting there wasn't any built-up anywhere, I measured the bearing clearance. It was .0015" out of tolerance after 108K miles. I caped it back up and drove it another 144K miles ( 252K total) brfore I sold it. It run around for another 3 years that I knew of. My point is with oil, a CLEAN engine has minimal wear. In that case the Reslone kept the crap in suspention to be caught by the oil filter or washed out of the engine at the next oil change. Baring using Reslone from day one, IMHO Auto-RX is the way-to-go to clean a dirty engine. Over the years I bought used cars 'till my truck and have gotten away from using Reslone. And I don't know of it can be used in a diesel or not. In a new gasser, I'd use Reslone from day one again. In cleaning an engine which I now know WILL be dirty reguardless of hoe good of care you give it....I'd use Auro-RX.
Too long of a post, I know, sorry.
But like the old commercial (for something, I don't remember) says, "TRY IT, YOU"LL LIKE IT".Larry
what else do you need to know it works as advertised.
larry K.
Junior Member
Member # 143
posted July 11, 2002 02:18 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2533a, As promised, here I am, home from work and its after midnight. Wow I didn't know there was such a controversy going on between two products. And to be honest, I don't know anything about the Neutra product. And the only thing I know about Auto-Rx is what I was able to observe during my own use of the product. I'm not a chemist or an engineer either. BTW, I also do not own any stock in Auto-Rx nor am I a relative of the owner.
Let me kinda start over. I'm a member of the Ford-diesel website. We're just a bunch of guys (roughly 20,000 members US & Canada) who get together on a website to help each other out with the care and feeding of our vehicles. Fords, mostly pickups (some vans) with Navistar diesel engines in them.
I've owned my '96 F-250 since new and have over 276K miles on it. I'm almost 7 years from retirement and the wifie says no new truck 'til then. So I'm off on a major campaign "to make it last". It will do it. The first 200K miles was put on in the first two years, the rest was in the last four. Its been a good truck, but needs some work, like new exhaust, front springs,ball joints,etc. The one thing it DOESN"T need is a new engine. I had switched to Amsoil x-mission fluid after a trannie re-build at 132K miles. With another 144K+ miles and still no trannie trouble, I've decided to switch All fluids over to Amsoil. (except windshield fluid and the Batts are sealed)
I had commented in several posts on the F-D website as to my intentions to go for extended engine oil changes. I have a neighbor who has over 80K miles on truck since his last oil change. Its still going strong and oil analyisis STILL does not indicate a need for an oil change. I've heard other members with over 100K miles without an oil change.
A fellow member suggested I check out the Auto-Rx website. I did, but didn't feel the need for a "engine cleaning" as I always been faithful in giving my truck "the best of care". I was, however, going to use the solvent type engine flush from Amsoil. Geees, you'd thought I'd let a pig loose in a crowd or something. I was finally convinced that a solvent type cleaner was not the way to go.
The Auto-Rx way was going to be expensive. At $25 a bottle, it was going to cost me $50 to clean my engine. OH No, I wasn't clear yet on things. Because our engines have an oil capacity of 14 qts, I needed TWO bottles for ONE treatment. And with my high mileage, TWO TREATMENTS (four bottles) were required. Make it FIVE bottles ($125) as I wanted to clean the trannie too. I was not liking this at all. I really thought there was no way my engine was as dirty as everyone thought. I cut open my oil filters once in a while and was impressed on how much crap was being removed. When I had the valve covers off, I was impressed how clean enerything was. WOW, things looked like new (almost) yet. A very small (3/4" x 4") stain on the inside of the valve cover.
Finally, I rationalized. Hey, I'm puttin' almost $4000 in the truck (with gauges & all) whats another $125 to ensure a clean engine?? Well, I forgot, I also needed $65 in oil filters because EACH treatment included filter changes every 250 miles to make sure there was enough filter material to collect all the crud from my "clean" engine.
To prove to myself how stupid I was being, I cut open each oil filter to see that there wasn't that much junk being collected. And with the last couple of filters, there wasn't. But on the first four, I was amazed the amount of just plain crap that was being removed. If I had used a solvent flush and all that stuff was put in suspention all at once....I don't know what the consequences would have been. I do know a solvent type flush or cleaner has NO lubricating qualities. Nor would the crap that was flushed out.
My understanding is that Auto-Rx does have lubricating qualities and does not brake down the oil the way an alcohol or petroleum solvent product would.
Am I sorry I spent $125 for Auto-Rx, PLUS $65 for filters?? NO WAY!!! For what it did and the way it did it... I'm not saying "it was cheap". I'm saying it was SAFE, EFFECTIVE and WELL WORTH THE PRICE. And I just ordered another bottle to clean the engine in my wifes Honda. And a bunch of filters.
In my book, the higher the mielage on a vehicle, the more you need Auto-Rx and not a solvent type flush.
Thirty years ago I bought my first new vehicle, a '70 Plymouth Duster. I used a product called Reslone. That product replaced one quart of oil and was put in at every oil change. At 108K miles I tore the car apart to paint it a different color. I put the engine on an engine stand and removed the oil pan and bearing caps. After noting there wasn't any built-up anywhere, I measured the bearing clearance. It was .0015" out of tolerance after 108K miles. I caped it back up and drove it another 144K miles ( 252K total) brfore I sold it. It run around for another 3 years that I knew of. My point is with oil, a CLEAN engine has minimal wear. In that case the Reslone kept the crap in suspention to be caught by the oil filter or washed out of the engine at the next oil change. Baring using Reslone from day one, IMHO Auto-RX is the way-to-go to clean a dirty engine. Over the years I bought used cars 'till my truck and have gotten away from using Reslone. And I don't know of it can be used in a diesel or not. In a new gasser, I'd use Reslone from day one again. In cleaning an engine which I now know WILL be dirty reguardless of hoe good of care you give it....I'd use Auro-RX.
Too long of a post, I know, sorry.
But like the old commercial (for something, I don't remember) says, "TRY IT, YOU"LL LIKE IT".Larry
Scott P
Member
Member # 788
posted June 19, 2003 08:59 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I noticed about a 2 mpg increase after my treatment. However, I did several changes, so I can't pinpoint it to any specific item. I changed my PCV valve, fuel filter, plugs, wires and switched to 0W-30 Amsoil.
Posts: 70 | From: Rochester, NY | Registered: Jan 2003 | IP: Logged |
Member
Member # 788
posted June 19, 2003 08:59 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I noticed about a 2 mpg increase after my treatment. However, I did several changes, so I can't pinpoint it to any specific item. I changed my PCV valve, fuel filter, plugs, wires and switched to 0W-30 Amsoil.
I noticed that the part of my cylinder head visible through the oil fill hole looks noticeably cleaner after Auto-Rx. If that part is clean, I can imagine the rest of the engine looks great as well.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posts: 70 | From: Rochester, NY | Registered: Jan 2003 | IP: Logged |
What the ?
Think Pammer was referring to this post
Ron
Sorry to hear of your lifter noice on a motor with such a short service life.
You may be correct in that deposits may have formed in the orafise area.
However, to answer your question about auto-rx thickening your 10W40 motor oil,
that is not true. At operating temperature your oils physical characteristics
will be unchanged. The brand of dino oil that you choose is not hat important.
The Auto-Rx will supply plenty of detergency to the whatever your host oil is.
From my standpoint, I have had good luck with Pennsoil, Castrol, Mobil/Exxon,
Shell. Personally, I have never seen a need to run synthetic oil. I am a
dedicated bow tie driver. I had a 77 Monza, with the modified Vega four cylinder
motor that ran 200K, an 83 Camaro with a 2.8 liter V-6 that ran 215K, I have a
90 S-10 with a 4.3 liter V-6 with 135k, THAT RUNS AS GOOD AS NEW. They all ran
dino.
Auto-Rx is comprised of 3 different esters. What they will do for you, beyond
cleaning, is add some polarity to the dino oil. What this means is that the
dino oil will have a greater affinity to steel parts in your motor, greater
likely hood that an oil film will remain on your parts after you shut the motor
down.
If you are really **** bent on getting rid of the valve tick right away, I
would change to dino and add the appropriate amount of Auto-Rx, with a new
filter. Why run the dino for 2K, when you've got valve noise. Cold start ups with
noise equates to wear. I would expect to see a significant improvement in the
cold starts inside of 200 miles.
Let us know how you make out. Run the dino/Auto-Rx blend for 1K, provided
that the oil doesn't become noticeably dirty. Then re batch with dino, a fresh
filter and 4-6 fluid ounces of Auto-Rx.
Happy Motoring,
Rich 20
Ron
Sorry to hear of your lifter noice on a motor with such a short service life.
You may be correct in that deposits may have formed in the orafise area.
However, to answer your question about auto-rx thickening your 10W40 motor oil,
that is not true. At operating temperature your oils physical characteristics
will be unchanged. The brand of dino oil that you choose is not hat important.
The Auto-Rx will supply plenty of detergency to the whatever your host oil is.
From my standpoint, I have had good luck with Pennsoil, Castrol, Mobil/Exxon,
Shell. Personally, I have never seen a need to run synthetic oil. I am a
dedicated bow tie driver. I had a 77 Monza, with the modified Vega four cylinder
motor that ran 200K, an 83 Camaro with a 2.8 liter V-6 that ran 215K, I have a
90 S-10 with a 4.3 liter V-6 with 135k, THAT RUNS AS GOOD AS NEW. They all ran
dino.
Auto-Rx is comprised of 3 different esters. What they will do for you, beyond
cleaning, is add some polarity to the dino oil. What this means is that the
dino oil will have a greater affinity to steel parts in your motor, greater
likely hood that an oil film will remain on your parts after you shut the motor
down.
If you are really **** bent on getting rid of the valve tick right away, I
would change to dino and add the appropriate amount of Auto-Rx, with a new
filter. Why run the dino for 2K, when you've got valve noise. Cold start ups with
noise equates to wear. I would expect to see a significant improvement in the
cold starts inside of 200 miles.
Let us know how you make out. Run the dino/Auto-Rx blend for 1K, provided
that the oil doesn't become noticeably dirty. Then re batch with dino, a fresh
filter and 4-6 fluid ounces of Auto-Rx.
Happy Motoring,
Rich 20
hey guys i am back. bob and i had some mixups on communications. it seems to be resolved now. it was my fault, i blocked the domain yahoo.com because of spam, so naturally i couldnt send emails to him and he couldnt send them to me.
ill be updating my auto-rx expierence in about 50 miles if anyone cares.
ill be updating my auto-rx expierence in about 50 miles if anyone cares.
i care.
Glad to see you're back Crypto. Communication is a tricky subject.
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