Hyundai Elantra
- Thread starter toyota62
- Start date
- Status
All three are excellent oils... I would go with the 0w20 during the warranty period and then switch to a 30wt later on.
I vote for the 0W20.
Aren't the vehicles sold in Australia as well as in America usually spec'd for a more viscous oil than in America? You sure the recommended viscosity isn't 40W-70, just kidding
. What does your Australian owner's manual say to use? I'd use what they recommend to keep the warranty safe.
Whimsey
Whimsey
5w20 is the recommended oil per the cap/manual. However, I have been running Mobil 0w30 AFE since 2k on my new Elantra. I am coming up on 6k and will be swapping to 0w20 Mobil for winter. Not sure which way I will go after that... I need to stay with the 4-5k changes to keep the warranty happy but don't necessarily want to stay with dino- as I will be keeping the car until it is dead and have always loved synthetics in my cars.
Dont go to the 0w-20. Hyundai cant cross spec oil weights. Good way to hammer your bearings and knock you piston skirts into submission. the 0w-30 is a good choice. The warm motor needs the SAE 30.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Dont go to the 0w-20. Hyundai cant cross spec oil weights. Good way to hammer your bearings and knock you piston skirts into submission. the 0w-30 is a good choice. The warm motor needs the SAE 30.
and now from arcographite the definition of FUD
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/FUD
0w20 to 20w50 is fine
personally i'd probably use a 5w30 but anything will work fine
arco where do you dream this total fantasy up at??
also SAE 30 refers to a straight 30weight. not any multigrade.
so what you said is also wrong besides being fantasy.
Dont go to the 0w-20. Hyundai cant cross spec oil weights. Good way to hammer your bearings and knock you piston skirts into submission. the 0w-30 is a good choice. The warm motor needs the SAE 30.
and now from arcographite the definition of FUD
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/FUD
0w20 to 20w50 is fine
personally i'd probably use a 5w30 but anything will work fine
arco where do you dream this total fantasy up at??
also SAE 30 refers to a straight 30weight. not any multigrade.
so what you said is also wrong besides being fantasy.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Dont go to the 0w-20. Hyundai cant cross spec oil weights. Good way to hammer your bearings and knock you piston skirts into submission. the 0w-30 is a good choice. The warm motor needs the SAE 30.
What utter nonsense.
We can't get the Fuchs Gt-1 0W-20 here but it's a bio-ester based oil intended for high stress applications including racing.
I know your own Doug Hillary likes the formulation.
Dont go to the 0w-20. Hyundai cant cross spec oil weights. Good way to hammer your bearings and knock you piston skirts into submission. the 0w-30 is a good choice. The warm motor needs the SAE 30.
What utter nonsense.
We can't get the Fuchs Gt-1 0W-20 here but it's a bio-ester based oil intended for high stress applications including racing.
I know your own Doug Hillary likes the formulation.
price per performance....PP 5w30 is hard to beat.
Originally Posted By: Rand
arco where do you dream this total fantasy up at??
Like I've said before, he's either a troll, or he has the worst luck of anyone who's ever lived!
Or he does this routinely.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4q7-xwkQUU&feature=related
Saying you're going to lose the piston skirts from running 0w-20 synthetic oil is non-sense and bad advice.
arco where do you dream this total fantasy up at??
Like I've said before, he's either a troll, or he has the worst luck of anyone who's ever lived!
Or he does this routinely.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4q7-xwkQUU&feature=related
Saying you're going to lose the piston skirts from running 0w-20 synthetic oil is non-sense and bad advice.
I kinda figured that was a troll(ing) statement- that is why I did not respond immediately...
I am a car guy-I know quite a bit about these cars...although I am learning A LOT about oil and lubrication now! I figure that a car spec'd for 5w20 would be just fine on a slightly lighter 0w20 in the cold days of winter. I will probably go with a 5w30 come springtime- we'll see what kind of deals I can snag in the next few months.
I have another Hyundai question!
I recently purchased an older 2000 Elantra w/ 170k with the exact same engine (2.0) minus the vvt. I am currently running GTX HM 5w20 and auto-rx, as it appears to be sludged (the underside of the oil cap was ugly!) The car is a DD beater, however it runs/drives great! I am thinking of switching to Rotella 5w40 after I complete the "rinse phase" this coming spring. The car sees 300-400 miles per week with a good amount of high speed driving each day. Is the Rotella a good choice for this iron block engine or should I drink the kool-aid and go PP?
I am a car guy-I know quite a bit about these cars...although I am learning A LOT about oil and lubrication now! I figure that a car spec'd for 5w20 would be just fine on a slightly lighter 0w20 in the cold days of winter. I will probably go with a 5w30 come springtime- we'll see what kind of deals I can snag in the next few months.
I have another Hyundai question!
I recently purchased an older 2000 Elantra w/ 170k with the exact same engine (2.0) minus the vvt. I am currently running GTX HM 5w20 and auto-rx, as it appears to be sludged (the underside of the oil cap was ugly!) The car is a DD beater, however it runs/drives great! I am thinking of switching to Rotella 5w40 after I complete the "rinse phase" this coming spring. The car sees 300-400 miles per week with a good amount of high speed driving each day. Is the Rotella a good choice for this iron block engine or should I drink the kool-aid and go PP?
This ought to fix it...
Originally Posted By: milehighhyundai
...
I have another Hyundai question!
I recently purchased an older 2000 Elantra w/ 170k with the exact same engine (2.0) minus the vvt. I am currently running GTX HM 5w20 and auto-rx, as it appears to be sludged (the underside of the oil cap was ugly!) The car is a DD beater, however it runs/drives great! I am thinking of switching to Rotella 5w40 after I complete the "rinse phase" this coming spring. The car sees 300-400 miles per week with a good amount of high speed driving each day. Is the Rotella a good choice for this iron block engine or should I drink the kool-aid and go PP?
I would go with the Pennzoil Platinum for 4-5 fills to clean things up and then switch over to Pennzoil Yellow Bottle permanently. I'm using this in my Mom's Spectra with excellent results.
...
I have another Hyundai question!
I recently purchased an older 2000 Elantra w/ 170k with the exact same engine (2.0) minus the vvt. I am currently running GTX HM 5w20 and auto-rx, as it appears to be sludged (the underside of the oil cap was ugly!) The car is a DD beater, however it runs/drives great! I am thinking of switching to Rotella 5w40 after I complete the "rinse phase" this coming spring. The car sees 300-400 miles per week with a good amount of high speed driving each day. Is the Rotella a good choice for this iron block engine or should I drink the kool-aid and go PP?
I would go with the Pennzoil Platinum for 4-5 fills to clean things up and then switch over to Pennzoil Yellow Bottle permanently. I'm using this in my Mom's Spectra with excellent results.
You shouldnt assume you can use a 0w-20 where a 5w-20 is specified, especially if the engine's sump does not run at or above boil. Looking at the viscosity curve and the 0w should (if a true 0w) present a flatter curve with increasing delta as you move away from the running viscosity. The 0w could present a substantially lower viscosity than the 5w. If the specific engine design and its manufacturing tolerances present loads that exceed the film strenght and boundary lubrication of the lubricant, you will have obvious mechanical noise, increase wear, ring chatter, increasing fuel dilution and subsequent failure. I am no troll- I would say knee jerk, blanket responses without understanding the physics and application are the most dangerous.
- Status
Similar threads
