New oil filter every other oil change?..

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: Johnny
I too am very old fashioned about this. I also put on a clean pair of underware after every shower.


But, how many days between showers?


Yeah, Johnny, what's your UCI?

 

[Audi Junkie]

I drain and re-use 5k filters, usually with dino oil though. Cut open one of your used ones and see how it looks inside at 5k. No matter what we say, seeing for yourself is what it takes to get over it. Next, push those ocis out a bit.

 

[getnpsi]

I don't know a lot about Jonny but if he were to go along with the UCI joke and brings up "cutaways" I'll die.

 

[02zx9r]

I used to change out my filter with each oil change, I have since started doing oil filter changes every other oil change. Just take off and drain filter.

 

[dnewton3]

Gosh - just like just about everything else on this site, I'd have to say ... It depends.

I'd never run a premium filter with a PAO and OCI every 5k miles; total waste of money. But I'd never run the FOCOD with bargin house oil for 12k miles, either.

If you match your operating pattern with your maintenance pattern, and plan your O/FCIs accordingly, you can succeed with certain combo's.

For example, if you run a quality dino oil such as PYB or DC5k, and use a top end filter such as Mobil 1 or Pure one, I can see the logic in the filter change every other OCI. You could likely get 5k miles from the oil, and 10k miles from the filter, with little concern.

Gary hasn't piped in yet, but he'll certainly agree that the filtration triangle is in play here. You have to look at your loading, severity, size, flow, exposure, etc.

Honda has long shown success with FCIs at 2x the OCI, both on cars and motorcycles. And yet the UOAs show no problems with this approach whatsoever.

As always, it just depends too much on the particular situation, and we typically get a "what if ..." question with little bounds to constrain the comments to a sensible, logical approach. So many of us (even me at times) shoot from the hip for a quick quip.

I don't know much about the Saab, but the Toy probably has a good engine. I don't know much about the OEM filters, either. However, just about any decent "synthetic" oil would make it 10k miles, if used in "normal" operation. I think the filter and oil are best used in a planned pattern.

I'd pair a PAO with a high end filter for 10k miles with little concern.
Or you can use a decent dino oil and every-day filter for 5k miles,
Or you could do dino oil at 5k miles with a high end filter at 10k miles,
Or a synthetic oil at 10k miles with a cheaper filter at 5k miles.
It's a game of mix and match; then UOA to confirm. All these scenarios are "possible".

 

[SidViscous]

Doesnt the dirt in the oil filter have more to do with how well your AIR filter is working?

 

[Gary Allan]

It tends to be determined by how many fuel enrichment miles you're doing vs. hollow warmed up miles.

 

[Sayjac]

Honda recommends changing the filter every other change. Oil gets left in the engine whether you change the filter or not. Filter actually does become more efficient.

On the other hand, filters I use are generally relatively inexpensive. I put the car on ramps to drain the oil anyway, might as well throw a new filter on.

I've always believed in a new filter, but since BITOG I'm more open to the idea of every other time. Someone here does it with Super Tech filter for 10k on a Nisaan Sentra, went 5k between oil changes, didn't look bad at all.

 

[chevrofreak]

The filters for my motorcycle (I use K&N) are $12.50 each, so I use them for a minimum of 2 oil changes. My oil changes are pretty short to make sure I get the fuel and contaminants out, so changing the filter would be a waste, and expensive.

 

[Gen1GT]

Doesn't anyone use remote oil filters? You can get larger canisters with a lot higher dirt holding capacity. You can also get clogging indicators (differential pressure indicators) that can tell you when the filter is clogged before the bypass valve opens. The quality of filtration you can get with aftermarket filtration is much better than any element that replaces the OEM one, too.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: HyperJinx
No way.... but thats just me. There is no way to tell what is going on in the filter. Most filters are not hi tech gadgets and could fail without advanced notice. I dont plan to run any filter past 5k. Anytime I have looked inside a filter, I always wondered how they lasted as long as they do.


I've found that high tech gadgets break a lot more then low tech gadgets.

 

[Gary Allan]

It's a matter of room, Gen1. There's also the need to buy salvage. Real PSID gauges are not cheap. Filter gauges for hydraulic use are usually zero pressure return lines, so they aren't going to work in line where 30psid is considered shot ..but 30psi will be a low or high reading of line pressure depending on oil visc.

Cost and room. Those are the challenges. You can get nice big industrial hydraulic filters at just about any level of filtration you desire. They'll cost a small fortune and load quicker than would make economical sense. So, you go bigger ..and pay more ..

 

[Gen1GT]

You can get tiny hydraulic filters with built in differential gauges (or indicators). But yeah, they get pricey. You could be looking at $150 for the assembly, then $30 for replacement elements.

 

[JustinC25]

This is an old concept, at least on Toyota's.
Back in the '80's Yota recomended filters be changed every other oil change. But they have since gone to every change.
Filters are cheap, and If I remember correctly, those vehicles are very easy to get to the filter, depending on the model.

The 9-5 should be front and center under the car, if it is the 4 cylinder. The 4Runner's filter location can vary depending on the year, and engine. If it is an older 4 cyl it is in one of 2 places.
22-RE is on the passenger side under the intake. 3RZ-FE is in the same location, but on an adapter plate mounted vertically. But still not too bad. (this one will need a rag to catch the old oil.)

If it is the V6 it could be very easy, or a little more difficult.

5VZ-FE is a little challenging. Jack up the driver's side of the Vehicle, so you can freely turn the wheel. Rotate the wheel so that one of the flat sides of the triangle axle is straight up and down. This will give you the room to get your arm up there, and the filter out.
Put a rag up on top of the skid plate through the hole between the lower control arm, and the axle. Reach through the hole with your strap filter wrench, and you are all set.

If it is the 1GR-FE, then It's on the top right in front. Can't get much easier than this one.

If it's the V8 2UZ-FE, then there is no easy way, you need to drop the skid plate, with the 4 12mm bolts.

 

[e55amgbenz007]

I find myself leaving the EaO or Mobil filter on the Dodge 3.7 for two OCI's (approximately 15k) as the filter is in one of the, if not the most difficult position I have ever encountered.

 

[ProfPS]

I am considering changing the cartridge filter every other OC in my V6 Rav4 due to the filter canister is cast aluminum. Unlike GM's cartridge, I can drain the filter canister without having to remove it. The filters look clean on my 4k mi OCI's and look like they can go 8k mi without a problem.

 

[StevieC]

My friends from Kentucky have a Rav-4 V6 with the cartridge filter and I have changed it myself. I would think you would be more than fine to do 10K Mile OCI's on the cartridge. Assuming the break-in is complete on the engine.

 

[postjeeprcr]

I have seen an owners manual from a vehcile made in the 70s and it says replace the filter every other oil change.

 

[wgtoys]

Sure, you can leave it on for two rounds. I don't have the mental fortitude to get myself to make that change, but that is because of habits and bias, not because of solid facts. One word of caution though, some Saab 9-5s had a horrible engine sludging problem. http://www.autosafety.org/saab-extends-engine-warranty-after-finding-sludge-problems-0 Make sure yours isn't one of the trouble prone engines before doing anything to back off an oil maintenance.