5000 mile oil filters

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Nov 22, 2004
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Location
Texas
I have been wondering what type of "testing" or other criteria is used to determine how many miles an oil filter is rated for. I get it that there are better media in filters as you go up the ladder in filter quality. My main thought pondering was the basic blue STP filters that are marked 5000 miles. I am pretty sure these are being used on vehicles with oil life systems that take a car past 5000 miles so what's the risk? Will the filter have less capacity and go into bypass mode or is the quality of the media at risk for getting all twisted looking so we see in some cut opens? I source my oil filters for customer oil changes from AZ but always get the extended life filters just for the additional mile rating to match the average oil change interval of more than 5k miles....but I can save an average of $4-5 a car going to the blue filter.

Thoughts? opinions?
 
In general, filters function perfectly well past their mileage rating. Look at all the C&P's here. Yes, wavy pleats happen and some build up occurs, but generally the cheap (5000 mile) filters are no where near half used up when they are changed out. I believe almost any filter will go 10K, unless used in an extreme sludger.
 
I've seen plenty 5k filters go beyond and hold up well at doing so. I don't fall for up selling and marketing gimmicks, I also am a conservative consumer I don't push the limits of reason. I would never drag a vehicle past a 10k or 1 yr oci and I know there's plenty of 5k rated filters that can take the ride past 5k
 
I don’t even put massive stock in a silicone ADBV,
I'd listen to anything anyone within the industry has to say about ADBV.

Is there only one style of ADBV with the main hole being the only variable? If there was only one style, wouldn't the base plates of every filter number have to be similarly configured so the ADBV would "flap shut" effectively?

Could it be that silicone ADBVs -with their superior flexibility- were developed so baseplates could exhibit differing contours?

I performed many oil changes in a half dozen Saabs with the same engine. Each filter had an ADBV.
Some ADBVs held oil back, others performed as if there was no ADBV.
At the time I didn't think to see if there were differences in the baseplates' contours.
 
I'm sure many of the 5k rated filters can and have gone much further without issue, it simply fits into the tiered mileage categories the manufacturers can create for their filters to go along with modern car maintenance intervals.

I do think silicone ADBVs are superior, and from my experience prefer to have one even with 5000 mile intervals. It makes a big difference on an engine where the filter sits horizontal, like it does on my Jeep 4.0L, and after some wacky temperature swings here in New England I would notice increased start up rattle with a nitrile ADBV. I'm sure the mounting of the filter on that Jeep makes it sensitive to the ADBV working, but I would still prefer a silicone valve even if I only drive it 5000-6000 miles per year. Is it worth the $2-3 more on the Supertech filters? Probably for my application, but maybe not for someone else.
 
Most “premium” filters used to be well known for their dirt capacity (Bosch Distance Plus), or their high efficiency (OG Ultra, Titanium, Endurance, RP, Amsoil EaO)-but it seems that now the premium filters are only good for emptying wallets…
I think the cheap filters have become good enough for most applications, and we here on BITOG have started to notice that the price gap between a cheap filter (like a Fram PH or Champ) and a $13 Fram FE is not a good value for most people unless you do extended OCIs. I mean a $4 Fram PH comes with a silicone ADBV and 95% efficiency at 20 microns, and the $7 Fram TG is 99%.

I cringe when I see members on here changing out Fram FE and RP/Amsoil filters after 2000 miles with a run of HPL cleaning oil. If they are that paranoid the filter will be clogged that quickly they should run a cheap filter, and let's be realistic if the filter is clogged after 2000 miles their engine is on its last legs anyway. :LOL:. I understand the thinking that oil and filters are cheaper than engines, but also feel throwing out a $13 oil filter after 2000 miles is just wasteful.
 
1) I think with filters (just like oil) the bar has been raised. Even the low budget stuff is pretty dang good now.
2) Couple dollars extra over hundreds of changes can turn into decent money overtime. Seems like a good trade off to me. Just make sure to pass some of that saving onto the customer. A little bit for you and a little bit for them. Don’t be greedy.
 
I have been wondering what type of "testing" or other criteria is used to determine how many miles an oil filter is rated for. I get it that there are better media in filters as you go up the ladder in filter quality. My main thought pondering was the basic blue STP filters that are marked 5000 miles. I am pretty sure these are being used on vehicles with oil life systems that take a car past 5000 miles so what's the risk? Will the filter have less capacity and go into bypass mode or is the quality of the media at risk for getting all twisted looking so we see in some cut opens? I source my oil filters for customer oil changes from AZ but always get the extended life filters just for the additional mile rating to match the average oil change interval of more than 5k miles....but I can save an average of $4-5 a car going to the blue filter.

Thoughts? opinions?
Another load of mule nuggets is 5,000 mile filters aren’t meant to be used with synthetic oils.
 
The 5000 mile rating is largely marketing, both to establish the filter as an entry level product and also to “validate “ the more expensive filters with higher ratings.

We’ve seen countless jobber and entry level filters on here that looked great. I’d not hesitate to run one the full OLM interval, and you know the manufacturers are aware many are.

I’d not go further, with an entry level filter holding capacity is going to be lower.
 
I finally gave up worrying about it, I just let the Honda dealer's Service Technician install the only filter Honda sells, the 15400-PLM-A02, otherwise known as the Fram in the blue can, I supply 4 quarts of Mobil1 0w20 EP, they do the rest. Generally 3500-4000 miles later, repeat. Sometimes in the winter, a bit sooner, summer, a bit later. The CRV, which generally goes 3k/yr all short trips, gets changed twice a year using Mobil1 5W-30 EP. The Honda 1.5T is just very cool running, takes an hour on the highway to get the oil hot enough to even start evaporating fuel.
 
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This(torn filter) is more likely to happen with a 5000 mile rated filter. This one is a Carquest R84356 off an ‘06 Nissan Sentra that was run too long (something like 10K miles). Two of the pleats on each side of the crimp are folded over (torn on the end caps) and each pleat has a tear along the length of the filter. (I found that out when i folded the pleat back into its normal position).
1F682467-A970-44B9-A3AF-B6E29A1F7E2D.jpeg
 
This(torn filter) is more likely to happen with a 5000 mile rated filter. This one is a Carquest R84356 off an ‘06 Nissan Sentra that was run too long (something like 10K miles). Two of the pleats on each side of the crimp are folded over (torn on the end caps) and each pleat has a tear along the length of the filter. (I found that out when i folded the pleat back into its normal position). View attachment 204309
As wide as those pleats are, they probably tore shortly after the filter was installed.
 
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