I almost qualify as my Corolla now has 146K miles. I use nothing but Havoline dino and PureOne filters with 6K intervals. When I drain my oil it's barely darker than it was going in (I can still see through it), and the engine doesn't use a drop between changes.
Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in
- Thread starter Patman
- Start date
1992 Toyota 4x4 Pickup V6 with 263K miles. Just barely had a valve job (burnt exhaust valve), but now set for another 250K. Usually gets Valvoline ML. 1987 Toyota Celica GTS 196K miles. Also Valvoline ML. 1990 Toyota pickup getting close. Penzoil Platinum in this one.
1994 Chevrolet Impala SS. 237k miles. Purchased at 165k in July '04. As far as I know its had M1 10w30 syn from 90k when the PO purchased it to this day, on a 3000-5000 mile schedule. 3rd optispark, 2 water pumps. The 2nd transmission was installed at 222k and runs Dexron VI. Driven on the weekends now.
1990 Honda Civic Si. 191k miles. Purchased at 186k. Was a trade-in at work. PO neglected the vehicle badly. Original engine long gone, now has a JDM sohc ZC in it installed at unknown mileage. Seeps oil but mainly burns a quart every 500-1000 miles. Possible oil control rings are stuck or sticking. The last 2 oil changes done at 2000 miles. 1st with supertech 20w50 and 2nd time with Shell Rotella-T 15w40. Supertech filter used each time. Transmission was replaced when I purchased it. Even with its problems it knocks down 35+ mpg.
1990 Honda Civic Si. 191k miles. Purchased at 186k. Was a trade-in at work. PO neglected the vehicle badly. Original engine long gone, now has a JDM sohc ZC in it installed at unknown mileage. Seeps oil but mainly burns a quart every 500-1000 miles. Possible oil control rings are stuck or sticking. The last 2 oil changes done at 2000 miles. 1st with supertech 20w50 and 2nd time with Shell Rotella-T 15w40. Supertech filter used each time. Transmission was replaced when I purchased it. Even with its problems it knocks down 35+ mpg.
2000 Chrysler 300M | 3.5L | 150K miles obtained just last week. Have been running 10-12K OCI with documented UOAs for the past couple of years now mainly with PP 5W/30. Nearly 26K miles run annually for the past 3.5 years. Amsoil Universal ATF in the transmission & 75W/90 in the differential. 50K UOA of the tranny looked good...going to 60K and then performing a pan drop and filter replacement.
Beating window sticker MPG of 27mpg highway with over 32mpg as of late!
No mechanical problems whatsoever from the date of purchase 3.5 years ago.
Beating window sticker MPG of 27mpg highway with over 32mpg as of late!
No mechanical problems whatsoever from the date of purchase 3.5 years ago.
Sold my '03 Hyundai Elantra a year ago with 188,543 miles on it - purchased new.
Generally used Wal-Mart 10W30 dino oil with Advanced Auto Parts branded filter. Changed every 4k to 4.5k miles (one month of driving). Never had an oil related problem. No varnishing after all those miles.
New owner paid for a complete inspection before purchasing - came out with a glowing report - "That's one h311 of a car there" was the quote from the shop owner.
Regards,
GEWB
Generally used Wal-Mart 10W30 dino oil with Advanced Auto Parts branded filter. Changed every 4k to 4.5k miles (one month of driving). Never had an oil related problem. No varnishing after all those miles.
New owner paid for a complete inspection before purchasing - came out with a glowing report - "That's one h311 of a car there" was the quote from the shop owner.
Regards,
GEWB
i am with this guy.
whats the big deal about 150k anyway?
seems like 250k would be more of an old-timer threshold
whats the big deal about 150k anyway?
seems like 250k would be more of an old-timer threshold
New guys are always good for reviving old threads.
1996 Toyota RAV4 FWD. About 168,000 miles. Purchased new and have used Shell Formula (dino) 10W-30 or 40. Change oil myself with a Toyota brand filter every 5000 miles for first 100K miles.
in 2002, I found a job much closer to home so I only go about 5-7000 miles/year. I still use dino and Toyota filters but change every 6 months.
Car does not burn oil, gets 28 mpg and runs like new.
1996 Toyota RAV4 FWD. About 168,000 miles. Purchased new and have used Shell Formula (dino) 10W-30 or 40. Change oil myself with a Toyota brand filter every 5000 miles for first 100K miles.
in 2002, I found a job much closer to home so I only go about 5-7000 miles/year. I still use dino and Toyota filters but change every 6 months.
Car does not burn oil, gets 28 mpg and runs like new.
Last edited:
1993 Civic, 254,000 miles
Amsoil SSO, EAO20 filter
no leaks, no oil burn, hardly any gas burn 45+ MPG HWY.
Amsoil SSO, EAO20 filter
no leaks, no oil burn, hardly any gas burn 45+ MPG HWY.
98 5 speed 3.4 4WD 4Runner 196k
Intervals of Redline and SSO since I purchased it with 143k.
No leaks or burning of any kind.
The good syn definitely helped to clean any of the residue that the dino wasn't able to with the original owner.
Runs flawless.
Intervals of Redline and SSO since I purchased it with 143k.
No leaks or burning of any kind.
The good syn definitely helped to clean any of the residue that the dino wasn't able to with the original owner.
Runs flawless.
1999 Ram 1500 Dodge Conversion Van, 3.9 V6. Castrol GTX first 100k, Valvoline last 55k......155k total..No leaks, runs great. (3 trans flushes so far, 3 serpentine belts) Oil interval every 3-4k
Originally Posted By: bigjeffie
i am with this guy.
whats the big deal about 150k anyway?
seems like 250k would be more of an old-timer threshold
yeah, but most people don't drive to 250k miles. probably at least half of the cars in this thread wouldn't have posted
i am with this guy.
whats the big deal about 150k anyway?
seems like 250k would be more of an old-timer threshold
yeah, but most people don't drive to 250k miles. probably at least half of the cars in this thread wouldn't have posted
The original engine in my '85 K20 Suburban lasted 316,000 miles with 3000 mile oil/filter changes. The new engine has 1,695 miles on it as of today, so I have 1,305 miles til the oil gets changed.
Since this has been revived and the board does not have 'old post' rules:
96 318i: 188,300 miles ..... first 36k, as specified by dealer ... dealer fill of unkown oil.
36k-150k, bulk fill 15w-40 from local shop, suspected pure Valvoline use. 4k oci's or two changes per OE oil service indicator. This is in fact why I think this engine is doing so well.
Last 38k, HDEO CJ4 rated oil including Rotella 15w-40 and 10w-30 as well as MC 15w-40. 5k oci's.
Engine has only ever had valve cover and oil pan gasket replaced. Original alternator, compressor, P/S pump, original transmission.
96 318i: 188,300 miles ..... first 36k, as specified by dealer ... dealer fill of unkown oil.
36k-150k, bulk fill 15w-40 from local shop, suspected pure Valvoline use. 4k oci's or two changes per OE oil service indicator. This is in fact why I think this engine is doing so well.
Last 38k, HDEO CJ4 rated oil including Rotella 15w-40 and 10w-30 as well as MC 15w-40. 5k oci's.
Engine has only ever had valve cover and oil pan gasket replaced. Original alternator, compressor, P/S pump, original transmission.
Originally Posted By: HondaMan
Since this has been revived and the board does not have 'old post' rules:
96 318i: 188,300 miles ..... first 36k, as specified by dealer ... dealer fill of unkown oil.
36k-150k, bulk fill 15w-40 from local shop, suspected pure Valvoline use. 4k oci's or two changes per OE oil service indicator. This is in fact why I think this engine is doing so well.
Last 38k, HDEO CJ4 rated oil including Rotella 15w-40 and 10w-30 as well as MC 15w-40. 5k oci's.
Engine has only ever had valve cover and oil pan gasket replaced. Original alternator, compressor, P/S pump, original transmission.
Pretty impressive for a Bimmer.
Since this has been revived and the board does not have 'old post' rules:
96 318i: 188,300 miles ..... first 36k, as specified by dealer ... dealer fill of unkown oil.
36k-150k, bulk fill 15w-40 from local shop, suspected pure Valvoline use. 4k oci's or two changes per OE oil service indicator. This is in fact why I think this engine is doing so well.
Last 38k, HDEO CJ4 rated oil including Rotella 15w-40 and 10w-30 as well as MC 15w-40. 5k oci's.
Engine has only ever had valve cover and oil pan gasket replaced. Original alternator, compressor, P/S pump, original transmission.
Pretty impressive for a Bimmer.
Just hit 150K on the Corolla yesterday
Rolled over 474km last week....
Can I add an old car? I had a 1988 thunderbird turbo coupe 5-speed I bought at an auction for $200 in 2001 with 113k miles on it. I drove it till 151k before I sold it to someone else.
All original engine, headgasket, turbo, etc.
I learned to drive stick on it, so it did need a new clutch around 123k
I ran all sorts of [censored] oil through that thing, including engine flush stuff, Slick 50, the list goes on. It ran like a top....at least, until that one time I decided to do a tune-up using Pep Boys Bosch parts. Then I thought the engine was going to blow due to how much it was knocking and missing under normal load. Cleaned off the old distributor cap and re-installed it and it ran solid again
Great car, great engine. A true symbol of how advanced Ford's 4-cyl turbo engines were in the 80s......imagine, a domestic company had a 2.3 liter 4-cyl turbocharged engine, intercooled, that got around ~20 city and ~30 mpg highway driven through a 5-speed, rear wheel drive w/ LSD platform in a 3500 pound car. It put out 190 HP and 240 torque stock, and alot more with just a boost controller.
Tell me how many people would clamor for a RWD turbo'd 4-cylinder with similar equipment today?
God I miss that car. Supportive bucket seats with thigh support. *Sigh*
She was the one who got away.
All original engine, headgasket, turbo, etc.
I learned to drive stick on it, so it did need a new clutch around 123k
I ran all sorts of [censored] oil through that thing, including engine flush stuff, Slick 50, the list goes on. It ran like a top....at least, until that one time I decided to do a tune-up using Pep Boys Bosch parts. Then I thought the engine was going to blow due to how much it was knocking and missing under normal load. Cleaned off the old distributor cap and re-installed it and it ran solid again
Great car, great engine. A true symbol of how advanced Ford's 4-cyl turbo engines were in the 80s......imagine, a domestic company had a 2.3 liter 4-cyl turbocharged engine, intercooled, that got around ~20 city and ~30 mpg highway driven through a 5-speed, rear wheel drive w/ LSD platform in a 3500 pound car. It put out 190 HP and 240 torque stock, and alot more with just a boost controller.
Tell me how many people would clamor for a RWD turbo'd 4-cylinder with similar equipment today?
God I miss that car. Supportive bucket seats with thigh support. *Sigh*
She was the one who got away.
Today, 6 years after buying the Prizm I have 235,4xx miles on the clock. The Camry is at 204,xxx miles and is due for an oil change this month.
Consumption is still the same, a quart every 2000 miles give or take. I'm out of Havoline, so I'm using Pennzoil or Quaker state in both of these cars. I'm almost out of Toyota filters, and have used all of my Advanced Auto house brand filters, so I'm looking for more filters in the stash.
I did a ring soak in the Prizm last weekend to see if it improved the oil consumption issues. I don't expect miracles. But I was doing a tune-up anyway, so I put 2oz of MMO in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. I removed the ignition fuse 24 hours later and with a towel over the open holes, spun the engine over before I put in new plugs, cap, rotor and PCV valve.
I put the other 1/2 of the MMO bottle into the crankcase and ran the car for about 20 minutes getting the oil up to temperature before changing it, letting it drain for 8 hours or so and refilling with Quaker State 10W40.
I don't really expect the consumption to drop by a great deal. But if it does, I'll repeat this with oilBabe's Camry later this month.
Originally Posted By: javacontour
Originally Posted By: javacontour
1994 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) with the 1.6L engine.
Just rolled over to 159K today, I purchased it 99 weeks ago with 106k on the clock.
I've been running Mobil 1 5W30 with a change every 4 months, current fill is on about 5 months and 9400 miles.
From the records, the previous owner did either Chevy dealership service every 3-5K and then a local lube and carwash at about the same intervals with Mobil 5W30 or 10W30. I might use a quart in the 8-10K mile interval.
I'm switching to the M1 EP when I hit 160K and going for 15K or 6 month intervals.
Oh, and I use Purolator filters.
TB
Let's see, three years later, give or take.
Now at 217K on the clock. Tried the M1 EP for a about 18 months without drama. Did the same thing with Oilbabe's 2002 Camry, now at 178K miles for a while.
Both cars are now back at conventional oils at 5K intervals. Well, the Camry has Supertech synthetic so I'm not out there changing oil in the winter, so it's going 4 months, or about 8K miles until spring. Oilbabe is at about 2K/month usage, and the Prizm has dropped from about 25K/year to about 18K/year as I'm doing more on-site work and taking the train to this customer's site instead of driving the entire St. Louis metro area.
Living in the apartment for the past about 6 months has curtailed much of my tinkering with cars. However, oilbabe and I found a home and will close on 1/25 on our 2700 square foot shack.
First time ever that I owned a home with an attached three car garage.
Let's add a bit to this, since I cut myself off.
I've been using mostly Havoline 5W30 and 10W30 in the warmer weather. I've also used Advance Auto Oil as well on occassions. Both cars are now using about 1 quart every 2000-2500 miles and are on 5K intervals.
I stopped using synthetic during the warmer months due to the consumption. I did use it in oilbabe's Camry just because I didn't want to do a winter oil change while in the apartment complex. (Strangely, there is no prohibition regarding doing such work in our lease.)
Using Purolator, Advance Auto, Supertech and the left-over Toyota filters now that I traded the Scion tC for the Sienna.
Consumption is still the same, a quart every 2000 miles give or take. I'm out of Havoline, so I'm using Pennzoil or Quaker state in both of these cars. I'm almost out of Toyota filters, and have used all of my Advanced Auto house brand filters, so I'm looking for more filters in the stash.
I did a ring soak in the Prizm last weekend to see if it improved the oil consumption issues. I don't expect miracles. But I was doing a tune-up anyway, so I put 2oz of MMO in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. I removed the ignition fuse 24 hours later and with a towel over the open holes, spun the engine over before I put in new plugs, cap, rotor and PCV valve.
I put the other 1/2 of the MMO bottle into the crankcase and ran the car for about 20 minutes getting the oil up to temperature before changing it, letting it drain for 8 hours or so and refilling with Quaker State 10W40.
I don't really expect the consumption to drop by a great deal. But if it does, I'll repeat this with oilBabe's Camry later this month.
Originally Posted By: javacontour
Originally Posted By: javacontour
1994 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) with the 1.6L engine.
Just rolled over to 159K today, I purchased it 99 weeks ago with 106k on the clock.
I've been running Mobil 1 5W30 with a change every 4 months, current fill is on about 5 months and 9400 miles.
From the records, the previous owner did either Chevy dealership service every 3-5K and then a local lube and carwash at about the same intervals with Mobil 5W30 or 10W30. I might use a quart in the 8-10K mile interval.
I'm switching to the M1 EP when I hit 160K and going for 15K or 6 month intervals.
Oh, and I use Purolator filters.
TB
Let's see, three years later, give or take.
Now at 217K on the clock. Tried the M1 EP for a about 18 months without drama. Did the same thing with Oilbabe's 2002 Camry, now at 178K miles for a while.
Both cars are now back at conventional oils at 5K intervals. Well, the Camry has Supertech synthetic so I'm not out there changing oil in the winter, so it's going 4 months, or about 8K miles until spring. Oilbabe is at about 2K/month usage, and the Prizm has dropped from about 25K/year to about 18K/year as I'm doing more on-site work and taking the train to this customer's site instead of driving the entire St. Louis metro area.
Living in the apartment for the past about 6 months has curtailed much of my tinkering with cars. However, oilbabe and I found a home and will close on 1/25 on our 2700 square foot shack.
First time ever that I owned a home with an attached three car garage.
Let's add a bit to this, since I cut myself off.
I've been using mostly Havoline 5W30 and 10W30 in the warmer weather. I've also used Advance Auto Oil as well on occassions. Both cars are now using about 1 quart every 2000-2500 miles and are on 5K intervals.
I stopped using synthetic during the warmer months due to the consumption. I did use it in oilbabe's Camry just because I didn't want to do a winter oil change while in the apartment complex. (Strangely, there is no prohibition regarding doing such work in our lease.)
Using Purolator, Advance Auto, Supertech and the left-over Toyota filters now that I traded the Scion tC for the Sienna.
1993 850, 257K miles as of today. Mobil1 10w30 every 10,000 miles for the first 200K miles of its life. At 200K, an overtorqued drain plug caused part of the threads to fall off and lodge in the oil pump pressure relief valve. Causing a zero oil pressure condition.
I replaced the oil pump and had the oil pan repaired at around 200K miles. When I took off the pan, I noticed a small quarter sized dot of hard carbon.
I have since switched to Mobil1 0w40 and have set my service reminder light to illuminate every 7500 miles (thus, I change the oil every 7500 miles) currently.
I don't think my bad front O2 sensor is helping the oil at all.
The car uses some oil between changes, but does not leak. I think the valve stem seals are to blame.
I replaced the oil pump and had the oil pan repaired at around 200K miles. When I took off the pan, I noticed a small quarter sized dot of hard carbon.
I have since switched to Mobil1 0w40 and have set my service reminder light to illuminate every 7500 miles (thus, I change the oil every 7500 miles) currently.
I don't think my bad front O2 sensor is helping the oil at all.
The car uses some oil between changes, but does not leak. I think the valve stem seals are to blame.
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