Beam Type vs "Click" type Torque Wrench

[The Critic]

I'm currently in the market for a 1/2" drive torque wrench. At Sears, they sell a 1/2" drive "click" type torque wrench for $79.99, but it only comes with a 90 day warranty. On the other hand, the equivalent 1/2" drive beam type torque wrench only costs $29.99 and comes with a lifetime warranty.

1. Why is a beam type torque wrench warrantied for a longer period of time than a "click" type?

2. How are "click" type torque wrenches superior to beam type torque wrenches?

Thanks.

 

[Shannow]

Beam is simplest by far, and obeys simple rules of physics.

Click type add complexity, and apparent ease of use. Increased complexity means increased cost. Increased ease of use means increased cost. Increased complexity means increased number of failure modes (i.e. reduced warranty)).

 

[dnewton3]

I own both types. I use either with no regard or concern for problems.

Where I work (and I'm a statistical quality engineer) we use beam-type torque measurement tools (certified by outside accredited agencies) to calibrate our other instruments.

Beam type is far simpler, and therefore less likely to be suspect to error.

However, the quality of "click" type has come so far that the question of accuracy is really a non-issue now.

Choose based upon your percieved balance of use, convenience, and cost. Either one will be fine.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
How are "click" type torque wrenches superior to beam type torque wrenches?


Depends on what you consider to be more important: simplicity and durability, or convenience. That said, cheap beam torque wrenches are much much worse than good quality click-type torque wrenches.

Often it is impossible to read the scale on the torque wrench due to being forced into a position that would make a Cirque du Soleil contortionist proud. That's when you want a "click" type torque wrench. Since I don't use my torque wrenches on a daily basis, I am not worried about the service life of the tool.

 

[WishIhadatruck]

I have owned 2 Craftsman "click type" torque wrenches for almost 10 years, a 1/2" and a 3/8". I was somewhat worried about the short warranty as well but I've never had an issue with either of them. They don't get used a lot however. The 1/2" gets used far more. I find them very convenient because you don't have to watch any indicator while torqueing down so you can pay attention to what you are actually doing. Mine recommend that they are stored set at the lowest torque setting which is kind of a pain however. It will probably stay properly calibrated that way longer since the spring pressure inside is much less at the lowest setting.

 

[Eddie]

In addition to the above comments. I use a beam type for rough stuff like wheel lugs, shock absorbers and the like. I use a clicker for aluminum engine parts. What to recomend should be based on what you will use it for. I got along for 25 years using a beam type and being carefull so either will be far better than no torque wrench.

 

[Pablo]

We have a calibrated strain gage torque tester at most all places I've worked over the years. Most OTS torque wrenches are so-so - I have the 1/2" model you mention (or at least it's older brother). It's particulary inaccurate (+/-) 5-10 ft-lbs or so at the low end (under 40) - which I find disturbing. But I'm not worrying about it - I went and bought a Harbor Freight 3/8" China Girl model, on sale for $15, when I need real accuracy

for the smaller jobs. My Chinese Girl bike engine head studs/nuts call for 12 ft- #'s to 20 ft-#'s, depending on what I'm reading. All I can say is my two wrenches did not agree so I went with the new girl.

 

[stockrex]

clickers need to unloaded once u r done, and often checked for calibration. there are tool places??? I have read that will check and reclalibrate for u. for the money I bought 4 3/8 et 1/2 inch from harbor fright. being shade tree mechanic I often forget to unload the clicker
if ya want to be high tech stanley has an electronic one, sometimes the stanley store on ebay has em for 70$

 

[Gillsy]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
I'm currently in the market for a 1/2" drive torque wrench. At Sears, they sell a 1/2" drive "click" type torque wrench for $79.99, but it only comes with a 90 day warranty. On the other hand, the equivalent 1/2" drive beam type torque wrench only costs $29.99 and comes with a lifetime warranty.

1. Why is a beam type torque wrench warrantied for a longer period of time than a "click" type?

2. How are "click" type torque wrenches superior to beam type torque wrenches?

Thanks.
My primary use of a torque wrench is lug nuts. I've never warped a rotor, or resurfaced a drum. Beam type is not good for that use. I had a Craftsman torque wrench that the plastic handle broke on. No warranty! I went to eBay and bought a mil-spec micrometer type torque wrench for under $20 plus shipping. It works great. No more Craftsman for me! I hope this helps!

 

[Pablo]

Good point on zeroing out torque wrenches!.....(unless they are the presetable type)

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: stockrex
clickers need to unloaded once u r done, and often checked for calibration.


+1 I use the Sears clicker type and with my limited use they will hold their calibration for 4-5 years IF you unload them after each use. Sears will send them out for calibration as well for a small fee. But...no stripped bolts yet and I use them on my Harley all the time which is mostly screwing steel fasteners into aluminum cases.

 

[mrsilv04]

I picked up a 3/8 inch clicker type at a local Farm&Fleet store for less than $30.

It came with a lifetime, exchange warranty.

 

[tom slick]

clicker type are much easier to use. Feeling the click while straining is much easier then bending over to read the wrench and maintaining torque.

 

[doitmyself]

I purchased three new torque wrenches at my workplace this past winter and spent several weeks with "analysis paralysis" learning EVERYTHING there is to know about them.

I think it is safe to say that any type of torque wrench is not "superior" to another, but is just different. Each has it's pros and cons.

Fastener condition (clean/lubed/damaged) and user error can easily result in 20% or more variations. So, wrench precision is somewhat a moot point (within reason).

Beams can be used in most situations as long as you can read the scale (often problematic). They are simple, accurate, and don't go out of calibration unless severely abused. I disagree with Mori's statement "cheap beam torque wrenches are much much worse than good quality click-type torque wrenches", depending how he defines "cheap" and "good". Some prefer beams because they give a constant reading as torque progresses (good for bearing preload?).

Clickers have the advantages already described, but, they are more prone to go out of calibration (especially if abused). They are probably the most predominate type out there.

Things I learned:

Craftsman click torque wrenches get VERY mixed reviews. They work fine for some, but many complain that the plastic lock ring breaks for no apparent reason and calibration "can" be hit or miss.

The cheap generic Asian wrenches often seem to be calibrated excellent compared to better models. But, some complain that they up and die when you need them most. Who knows.

I always test a clicker on a fastener in my vice before doing a critical application to make sure it is "clicking". I know of several instances of snapped off bolts because the wrench was broke and a person trusted it was good.

It boils down to your circumstances and how much money you want to spend. I know lots more about brands, costs, etc. if you want more info.

FYI, I went with the Precision Instruments split beam clickers. They have many benefits over the micrometer click wrenches that made sense to ME. A 1/2" model is about $140 off the internet.

 

[Cory]

I've wanted a 1/2" drive torque wrench myself and also have looked into the Sears products. On another forum I belong to as well as the reviews found on the Sears website, many find the Sears torque wrench as a poor product.

These may be warranted for 90 days for a reason? Either Taiwan or China IIRC?

 

[doitmyself]

What's odd is that the Asian wrenches are the only ones that have a lifetime warranty. The big boys, CDI/Snap On, Precision Inst., Proto, and Sturdevant-Richmond all have 1 year warranties.

The Craftsman torque wrenches are rumored to be made by Danaher owned JS Technology Inc. in Georgia.

Its next to impossible to find a mid grade torque wrench now a days. The taiwan made Home Depot Husky wrench has somewhat favorable reviews, but their too line is going down the tubes. SK is often mentioned as a good mid grade wrench, but at least one thread I read said their plastic handle models are made by the same outfit as Sears.

 

[kd5byb]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
"analysis paralysis"


I like that term! I suffer from it too.

You hit the nail on the head with your 20% figure, except my research showed it's more like +/- 30%. When I worked for a NASA contractor I was charged with writing our torque specification and did A LOT of research. (This was Space Flight Hardware for goodness sakes!) Weeks of research showed that torque, like you say, is a very poor indicator of bolt clamping force, which is what you're trying to measure by measuring torque. My research showed that the preload variation is +/- 30% for the same torque.

A few years ago, I was investigating a quality deficiency report on a bolt from the driveline of a helicopter. A statistically significant number of these bolts had failed upon torquing during installation. I determined that the unit was using torque wrenches, they were calibrated properly, and the mechanics were doing everything properly.

I conducted laboratory testing on many samples of this bolt, measuring bolt elongation as a function of torque. I also measured the torque required to shear the bolt. Turns out that if you had a torque wrench that was on the high end of acceptable calibration, you had a less than average (but still acceptable) bolt strength, and the turbine engine oil used to lubricate the threads per the TM gave slightly less friction than normal, and you fell on the high side of that +/-30% I mention, you'd shear the bolt upon install. The statistical probability of all those factors was in line with the percentage of bolts that had failed.


Measuring the elongation confirmed the inaccuracy of torque as a measure preload. (For the same cross-sectional area, preload is elongation until the material yields and becomes plastic instead of elastic.)

(FWIW, I recommended that the bolts be made stronger by changing the manufacturing method from cut-threads to rolled-threads and testing for required hardness after heat-treat.)

I agree with your analysis that using something, anything, is going to get you in the proper ballpark and is what's required.

We use clickers at work (by Snap-On) and they go out to cal at a NIST-traceable lab yearly. Never had one fail or come back having failed cal.

At home I use Craftsman clickers. They are okay. Quality is so-so. They seem to work fine. Never have broken a bolt or had one come loose using it. Have broken bolts when I don't.

Beam types are very simple. I'd rather spend $30 on a beam than $30 on a clicker. It's easier to get the beam-type made right than the clickers...

 

[doitmyself]

Great expert input! I too know about the 30% figure, but was afraid that everyone here would think that was a lie. Thanks for correcting me.

When I searched the internet forums for torque wrench info, it seems like the best clues came from people that worked in the aviation/aerospace industry like you.

At least one tester said their Craftsman sample came through the 5,000 cycle test with flying colors.

I agree with your comments. I think a person should use their wrench cautiously within the know limitations of that particular wrench. Too many use them blindly as being accurate.

I use my personal Craftsman beam wrenches to do a crude check to make sure my workplace "better" ones are o.k.!

 

[NYEngineer]

I know if you're looking at Craftsman you don't want to hear me tell you about Snap on, but I have a 1/2" drive click type, a 3/8 click type, a 3/4 click type, a 3/8 Cornwell Dial type for setting drag on gears and a 3/8 K-D beam type. I've owned the 1/2 and 3/8 Snap on for over twenty years. I've sent them in to be calibrated because I felt they should... Both times they came back no cost, checked ok.
I guess what I'm saying is if you're going to use these tools, bite the bullet and buy a good one. They're guaranteed for life.

 

[benjamming]

But they are guaranteed for life except the Asian wrenches.