Question about ATF "complete" flushing

[MD5]

Hi,

I'm looking for advice about how to correctly flush ATF in my Toyota Rush.

Reading the tech manual I see that total oil capacity is 4.6 liters but after removing the drain plug only 1.5 liter are flushed.

Searching about how to perform a complete fluid replacement I found this Amsoil bulletin:
http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/ATF_and_Filter_Change_Procedures.pdf

I also read that many user follow a more easy way by flushing and refill the oil pan 2~4 times to allow a near complete fluid replacement.

Using the tecnique above, to mix the new and old oil before doing a reflush it's enough to turn on the engine and while parked shift the lever to P,R,1,2 etc. or to allow a complete mix, I must drive the car for some time than stop and flush ?

Using the tecnique above, to mix the new and old oil before doing a reflush is starting the engine on and while parked shifting the lever to P,R,1,2 etc. enough or to allow a complete fluid mix, I must drive the car for some time than stop and flush ?

About what's oil type to use, my car require a Dexron III fluid type.

Here I can find the Royal Purple MAX ATF or the Castrol TQ Dexron III. Which one do you rate the better ?

Thanking in advance for any advice!

Mario

 

[Donald]

The best flush would be to drain and fill the pan, run the vehicle to pump out 1-2 QTs via the cooling line, stop the vehicle, add what you drained out, drain out more via the cooler line, and keep doing this until you either see a change in the fluid color going out or you have gone through at least one more QT than your total capacity. Go through all of the gears at some point for 10 seconds in each gear.

Some people add an extra QT into the pan so they keep the number of cycles down. Some also drain via cooler lines until they see air bubbles in the cooler line. In the Amsoil suggested flush they have you add new ATF while the vehicle is running, thats fine, but most say they cannot add it fast enough compared to the rate its being pumped out. Also takes a 3rd person.

If you start with a pan of fresh ATF you will have the least mixing of old and new fluids. Even most of the places you take a car to for a flush, do not drop the pan, they just push in new fluid and the same time they are draining out old and probably go through 1-2QTs of extra fluid. Thats probably cheaper and easier for them than draining the pan.

 

[Eddie]

I do a drain plug drain & refill 3X times and drive ~ 20 miles minimum between each drain/refill. a 3X change gives ~ 90+% new in most vehicles.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I drain and fill before I do a flush through the cooler hoses. Probally it does not amtter either way, but there is a magnetic drain plug that has to be cleaned anyway.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I drain and fill before I do a flush through the cooler hoses. Probally it does not amtter either way, but there is a magnetic drain plug that has to be cleaned anyway.


I agree with a drain and refill before a flush, but unsure how that cleans the magnets on the inside bottom of the pan?

 

[unDummy]

If you want to flush, you should always start with a pan drain or removal, and refill, prior to starting a cooler line flush.

If you do not want to do a disconnect cooler line flush, 4-5 pan drain/refills with the 20mile drive in between each, is pretty close to a flush.

Not all cars have ATF drainplugs. Use the method most convenient for your vehicle.

A magnetic drainplug is cleaned when you remove it for the drain/refill.

If you have a pan magnet, simply drop the pan for cleaning. If over 60k miles, definitely consider the pan drop prior to starting any flush.

RoyalPurple is a full synthetic. I would use it, or any full synthetic DexronIII equivalent, before using a mineral ATF.

 

[MD5]

Thanks all for trying to help me, really appreciated, also lot's of useful reading on this forum!

Cooler lines on my car are not easily accessible, for a DIY maintenance I must follow the drain/refills way.

I'm actually at 20K miles, I will consider the internal magnet cleaning at next oil drain.

Greetings,

Mario

 

[Steelers]

With only 20K on the car a drain/fill should be all you need to do. Repeat every 15K-30K and you've got a good transmission service plan. However, if you wish to switch the fluid from the factory to the Royal Purple or Castrol you mentioned simply do three drain/fills in a row. Drive the car a few minutes in between drain/fills. By Honda's standard three drain/fills is considered a flush, no need to pull cooler lines. Should work equally well in your Toyota.

Never used either fluid you asked about. Each should mix fine with the OEM fluid from Toyota.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: MD5
Thanks all for trying to help me, really appreciated, also lot's of useful reading on this forum!

Cooler lines on my car are not easily accessible, for a DIY maintenance I must follow the drain/refills way.

I'm actually at 20K miles, I will consider the internal magnet cleaning at next oil drain.

Greetings,

Mario


With only 20K I would view your situation as refresh the ATF. So I would do it once every 15-20K.

 

[mikeg5]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
I do a drain plug drain & refill 3X times and drive ~ 20 miles minimum between each drain/refill. a 3X change gives ~ 90+% new in most vehicles.


not necassarily true. that depends on sump capacity and also you have to take into affect the law of diminishing returns due to dilluting old and new fluid.. the best way is to simply do the inline cooler flush

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I do a drain plug drain & refill 3X times and drive ~ 20 miles minimum between each drain/refill. a 3X change gives ~ 90+% new in most vehicles.


not necassarily true. that depends on sump capacity and also you have to take into affect the law of diminishing returns due to dilluting old and new fluid.. the best way is to simply do the inline cooler flush


Well actually sump capacity vs total capacity. Use the transmission calculator tool to do the math. The capacities are listed for all vehicles on the Amsoil web site.

The most cost effective way is a flush especially if you are using expensive synthetic ATF.

However if your fluid is a great shape and you just need to refresh the ATF and pull out some fluid with wear metals, then a drain and refill is a good way to go.

 

[PT1]

I do the 3-4 drain refills on transmissions that do not have a serviceable filter. (which is 2 of my 3 vehicles) The other one gets a pan drop, filter change and machine flush. But 4 drain fills on the Lexus & Honda gets you over 85% new fluid based on the calculator which is fine with me since there is only 1 quart of old fluid remaining. The real secret to this is to never let your fluid get burned out in the first place. You will find that if you are consistently replacing fluid that not much stays on the magnet. The Lexus dealers tell me they never drop the pan unless there is a filter. They have some transmissions out there with 300k+ and still going.

 

[NYSteve]

Anyone have a copy or link of the tranny calculator? Thanks
Steve

 

[MD5]

Thanks all again for the useful info.

This is my first car with AT, I learned lot's about how to maintain It.

About ATF fluid, I found another locally available oil, it's the Red Line D4 ATF advertized as fully syntetic like the RP MAX ATF both share the same price 1 liter = 28USD (aghrr!).

Any opinion about which one to choose will be greatly appreciated.

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
I do a drain plug drain & refill 3X times and drive ~ 20 miles minimum between each drain/refill. a 3X change gives ~ 90+% new in most vehicles.


Me too but I use a fluid extractor and extract form the dipstick tube 1x a day for 3 or 4 days. Very easy and cost effective.

 

[MD5]

And what's about the best way to perform fluid fill from the dipstick tube ?

I'm now using a half litre syringe + small rubber tube
http://www.friulmecsrl.it/img/offerte_mare/siringa_3420_500.jpg

This way I need to fill the syringe in the oil bottle and empty it in the rubber tube many time with a few fluid loss, I'm sure it's not the recommended way...