ZT2800 Hydrogear - 500 Hours on Original Fluid / Filter

My point was it is clearly out of warranty for those insisting he use what the manufacturer recommends...

M1 15w50 has a proven track record in commercial mower hydros.

I've seen a few posts that M1 15w50 is what Hydrogear rebrands for their own oil.


Pics of this unit, for appreciation of course.
1728394177650.webp


Here it is behind the GRAND marquis. The deck is 2'' wider than my trailer sides. So it turned into some assembly required.
 
Just picked up a Zeroturn for a real good price with two of these transaxles

For the price, I really wasn't concerned with the quality of the unit. Figured it would be something to get a year or two out of. Looked underneath and turns out it has the ZT2800 tranxaxles which seem to be the lowest of the "good" hydrostat transmissions.

The unit has 500 hours on it. Seems to work well, whines a bit but I think that's the nature of zturns? I don't believe it's ever been serviced.

Have Hydrogear filters coming in, planning to use M1 15w50 on it as that seems to be the best oil I can run.

With so many hours unserviced - any idea what kind of life I can expect out of these?
They probably spec 20-50 oil but the 15-50 is probably better oil. The hydrogear service manual is available online. I believe mine said 5 hrs then at 100hrs then every 500 hrs after that. Be sure to use the correct filters.
 
And FYI I am not just a "joe homeowner"
been doing my own repairs on auto and lawn equipment for years

I mean no disrespect to you at all...

I built most of my career as a hydraulics engineer working for the company that makes those transmissions, and many others. I was in R&D applying product in advanced ways, and pushing what machines can do.

No, I won't pay to repair any units that may fail...but I will use this as another time to say that the OEM of the equipment you are using may not always have life as the highest priority.

I was working on applying the rotating kit on one of those transmissions in an application that never made it to market. I needed a small kit to spin higher RPM's and be extremely cost effective. I asked one of the design engineers about their fluid selection, and why. He said...it was the easiest way for the average homeowner to source a fluid that would live in the application, and that a premium high vis hydraulic fluid would be a much better choice.

Again...I mean the most respect...but there are better choices than the specified engine oil.
 
Thanks for the kind words. FYI, I have a hydro gear ZT 2800 I changed the oil in and have purged it several times. It only has 50 hrs. on the unit. I can't get the whine out of it. Should I keep purging it or try something else. FYI Didn't know hydraulic oil would work.

thanks
 
I mean no disrespect to you at all...

I built most of my career as a hydraulics engineer working for the company that makes those transmissions, and many others. I was in R&D applying product in advanced ways, and pushing what machines can do.

No, I won't pay to repair any units that may fail...but I will use this as another time to say that the OEM of the equipment you are using may not always have life as the highest priority.

I was working on applying the rotating kit on one of those transmissions in an application that never made it to market. I needed a small kit to spin higher RPM's and be extremely cost effective. I asked one of the design engineers about their fluid selection, and why. He said...it was the easiest way for the average homeowner to source a fluid that would live in the application, and that a premium high vis hydraulic fluid would be a much better choice.

Again...I mean the most respect...but there are better choices than the specified engine oil.
Oddly enough the mowers owner manual says 15w40. Hydro gear says 20w50 .
 
I had agreed with you that the M1 15w50 was an acceptable substitute 👍🏻
It's really a hard to beat option. Widely available and for a good price. Some of the manufacturer hydro oils are just nothing special 20w50 in a bottle with their name on it for 3x the price. The last time I looked at Exmark hydro oil at my local dealer they wanted $60 for a gallon. o_O
 
Next time I am going to use 15w-50. I had an extremely hard time purging them this time.
It's not easy regardless of fluid choice. It takes patience! Some units you can access the upper port bolt. My Gravely I can't so, it's just a slow slow process, then when you get enough in, a couple more runs and topping off.
 
It's not easy regardless of fluid choice. It takes patience! Some units you can access the upper port bolt. My Gravely I can't so, it's just a slow slow process, then when you get enough in, a couple more runs and topping off.
My Ariens is likely an exact copy of yours. It’s up underneath and extremely difficult to reach. But I can get to both of mine by taking a 3/8” ratchet & socket, laying on my back and snaking my arm up in to reach it. The trick is not dropping the plug once it comes out because there are little nooks in the top of the casting.

1/10 stars. Would not recommend 🤣
 
My Ariens is likely an exact copy of yours. It’s up underneath and extremely difficult to reach. But I can get to both of mine by taking a 3/8” ratchet & socket, laying on my back and snaking my arm up in to reach it. The trick is not dropping the plug once it comes out because there are little nooks in the top of the casting.

1/10 stars. Would not recommend 🤣
maybe! Unsure. One I can actually see, no a normal 3/8" drive socket wouldn't fit. The other, who knows. But still could not fill there, just maybe would release a burp air pocket
 
maybe! Unsure. One I can actually see, no a normal 3/8" drive socket wouldn't fit. The other, who knows. But still could not fill there, just maybe would release a burp air pocket
No… you don’t fill it there. You pull the plug and then fill from the little level tank under the seat. Once you start to dribble out of the top, replace the plug.

S-shaped box-end wrenches are another option, a little lower profile.
 
No… you don’t fill it there. You pull the plug and then fill from the little level tank under the seat. Once you start to dribble out of the top, replace the plug.

S-shaped box-end wrenches are another option, a little lower profile.
That would work - I’ll see next time if can open them up. For sure would allow for easier fill
 
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That would work - I’ll see next time if can open them up. For sure would allow for easier fill
I'm mine I had a hard time getting the drivers side to take oil. The way the hose was routed it must have had an air bubble. I had to tilt the machine to get it to fill.

I haven't changed the fluid yet but the left transmission was a bit low when i checked and I wanted to fill
 
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