Zoned HVAC, suspected baffle issue

[Alfred_B]

I have a two zone HVAC system. Each floor has its own zone controlled by Honeywell thermostats, control panel and baffles. The house is new to us and I suspect, based on the air flow from the vents, that the baffles don't function properly.

So far I have reset the system and verified that the electronics work and the motors turn when the zones are activated. I've read that Honeywell systems are spring closed and motor opened. My suspicion is that even though the motor turns, the baffles do not open, probably due to broken linkage.

My next step is to take out the baffles, cover the duct hole and then operate the baffles when I can visually inspect their function.

Does this make sense?

 

[Donald]

I think most people end up getting service contracts for the HVAC systems as they are too complicated and if you need a tech on July 4th, you will get one if you have a service contract and you will wait if no service contract.

I have a Trane heatpump system with one unit for each floor.

I like to fiddle and in some cases I even end up fixing the item. But this seems too complicated and part of it is in the crawl space. I go in the crawl space, but only if there is a real need.

However your suggestion to get to the actual baffle and see it opening and closing seems reasonable,

 

[Fitter30]

Can you post the model# of the system. Should be able to pull the dampers out if not cut a hole downstream and look with a light. Box stores carrier sheet metal for patching the hole. Also look at the filter and blower wheel for dirt. Blower wheel fins are cupped and can fill up.

 

[SilverGt]

Where the motor attaches to the shaft of the damper there should be a set screw Sometimes they come loose or even fall out so that when the motor turns it is slipping on the damper shaft and not moving it If this is what is happening then you need to turn the system completely off at the thermostats and then make sure that particular damper is closed and tighten the set screw or replace it if missing Turn system back on and things should work fine again

 

[Dinoburner]

Damper assemblies usually connect to the duct work fairly simply if this is obvious then separate the damper from the duct and observe the function of the vanes. They are probably powered by 24 volts, if not then a professional should be called.

 

[Alfred_B]

Removed the damper and it's functional. The next step is to take out the blower motor and clean. This is what I discovered -- wrong size filter. About 2" shorter at 14" height in a 16" opening.

 

[Fitter30]

If the blower is filthy the coil or the air conditioning is and if the lines have some length coil can be slid out gently and cleaned best if you can use water.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Fitter30 gives some great advice in both of his replies. As stated, use water to clean the coils. Coil cleaners are VERY toxic!
Back in 1999 my company was cleaning the trays on a cooling tower. We were using a toxic cleaner that was supposed to be mixed 100 parts water, 1/2 part cleaner (I think that was the ratio). I owned a 1970 SS Nova that I was working on as a project car. I asked if I could have some of the cleaner to use in the radiator. Let's just say, TOXIC cleaner 1 radiator 0! That radiator had so many leaks in it afterwards, I had to scrap it!

 

[Alfred_B]

@Fitter30, your post is what made me have a lightbulb moment and look at the filter. I'll see how I can get water where the furnace is located and clean the coils without harming the electricals.

 

[Dinoburner]

Whats worked for us is to spray the cooling coils with simple green then gently hose off while watching the condensate tray and drain piping to be sure the trap doesn`t clog.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted by Dinoburner
Whats worked for us is to spray the cooling coils with simple green then gently hose off while watching the condensate tray and drain piping to be sure the trap doesn`t clog.

This is a good plan too, with the SG.
If the condensate line gets clogged, just use air, or a burst of high pressure water, to clear the line. Usually the condensate trap is installed at the end of the line. Remove it before cleaning the coil. Upon installing it again, be sure to fill the trap with water!