Your Opinion of best used Pick Up for Towing

My Chevy 6.2l gas max tow is rated at 12,700lb. I pulled 12.5k bumper pull trailer cross country 5,000 miles no issue. I added some basic 600lb airbags to level it out. Mileage averaged 11-13 depending on hills and winds. Biggest complaint is the fuel capacity 22gals. A plus for diesels are larger tanks and the truck stop fuel pumps are a lot easier to access.

The tow ratings of trucks are published for a reason and engineers came up with the numbers. So telling someone they need an 18k tow rated truck to pull a 10K load is mostly fear talking. Getting more capacity than you need the truck will ride like a brick when unloaded and narrow down your choices needlessly. The newer diesels are a lot more expensive to buy and maintain. Figure out the load you will be pulling and buy enough to tow it no need to go overboard.
Tow ratings are a joke. In the vast majority of (half-ton) trucks you run up against max payload way before max towing capability.
 
In that regard a WD hitch is NOT for leveling the truck. It is to move the virtual load forward into the bed only.
Have to disagree. A WD hitch is to take excess weight off of the rear axle and move it to the front axle that got light from a heavy trailer. Most, probably all WD hitch instructions have you measuring the body drop over the rear axle and rise over the front axle and adjusting the rear up and front down to a certain spec. Maybe you mean the same thing.

RV forums have lots of guys hauling heavy with 1/2 ton trucks and defend doing it ferociously. There are also lots of guys who were hauling heavy and got scared by a close call, went to a 3/4 ton and say they can't believe the difference. I've never seen anyone go from a 3/4 to a 1/2 ton and say they like it so much better.

You had to put heavy A/S bars and springs on the truck to get it up to the task. Still curious if you're within the truck's load specs.
 
Have to disagree. A WD hitch is to take excess weight off of the rear axle and move it to the front axle that got light from a heavy trailer. Most, probably all WD hitch instructions have you measuring the body drop over the rear axle and rise over the front axle and adjusting the rear up and front down to a certain spec. Maybe you mean the same thing.

RV forums have lots of guys hauling heavy with 1/2 ton trucks and defend doing it ferociously. There are also lots of guys who were hauling heavy and got scared by a close call, went to a 3/4 ton and say they can't believe the difference. I've never seen anyone go from a 3/4 to a 1/2 ton and say they like it so much better.

You had to put heavy A/S bars and springs on the truck to get it up to the task. Still curious if you're within the truck's load specs.
Yup
 
By the sound of the OP's request i think my long page from a day or two ago may have changed some opinions about the need for diesel.

A 6.2 gas f350 will be just fine. you'll find plenty of used ones. I'd go for a DRW if possible. I own a 6.0 gm but the 6.2 ford is a bit more powerful but as readily available and cheap but both are good engines. Only thing is that the 6.2 ford is more picky about engine maintenance so records matter more. The 6.0 is a tank it'll take anything and keep going for 314k like the one in mine with virtually no issues.
 
By the sound of the OP's request i think my long page from a day or two ago may have changed some opinions about the need for diesel.

A 6.2 gas f350 will be just fine. you'll find plenty of used ones. I'd go for a DRW if possible. I own a 6.0 gm but the 6.2 ford is a bit more powerful but as readily available and cheap but both are good engines. Only thing is that the 6.2 ford is more picky about engine maintenance so records matter more. The 6.0 is a tank it'll take anything and keep going for 314k like the one in mine with virtually no issues.
And if you have the 6.0 with a 4 speed, the 6.0 with 6 speed with 4.10s is a HUGE difference from the 6.0 4 speed, 4L80E with 4.10s. I couldn't believe how much easier my 17 out towed my 02. Both 6.0 trucks with 4.10 gears. The 02 had 300HP and 360FT/lbs of torque. The 17 has 360HP and 380FT/lbs of torque. The Dodge gas 3/4 ton up has more HP and torque than the 6.0 but was behind it in every towing test until they introduced it with the 8 speed. When fast lane truck did the IKE the 6.4 was behind both the 6.0 and 6.2. The 6.0 trailed the 6.2 by about a minute.
 
And if you have the 6.0 with a 4 speed, the 6.0 with 6 speed with 4.10s is a HUGE difference from the 6.0 4 speed, 4L80E with 4.10s. I couldn't believe how much easier my 17 out towed my 02. Both 6.0 trucks with 4.10 gears. The 02 had 300HP and 360FT/lbs of torque. The 17 has 360HP and 380FT/lbs of torque. The Dodge gas 3/4 ton up has more HP and torque than the 6.0 but was behind it in every towing test until they introduced it with the 8 speed. When fast lane truck did the IKE the 6.4 was behind both the 6.0 and 6.2. The 6.0 trailed the 6.2 by about a minute.
I had a buddy go from an '06 Duramax 2500 to a '13 Duramax 3500 DRW and said it was night/day difference pulling his 5th wheel toy hauler. He said he would have switched way earlier if he knew how big of a difference it was going to be. :D

lol no shiz? just going from 2500 SRW to a dually DRW is going to be a pretty big difference lol
 
I had a buddy go from an '06 Duramax 2500 to a '13 Duramax 3500 DRW and said it was night/day difference pulling his 5th wheel toy hauler. He said he would have switched way earlier if he knew how big of a difference it was going to be. :D

lol no shiz? just going from 2500 SRW to a dually DRW is going to be a pretty big difference lol
that's what i was getting at in this and the op's previous thread about the drw being a worthwhile option on its own even if you don't change the engine, trans, or gearing and the f350 tows better than the 250 just from the suspension differences alone.

i have a friend with a drw 6.2 f350. it being a long bed drw with better suspension alone makes it much better. Have another friend with a 6.7 4 door short bed srw f250 and it sucks for towing.
 
that's what i was getting at in this and the op's previous thread about the drw being a worthwhile option on its own even if you don't change the engine, trans, or gearing and the f350 tows better than the 250 just from the suspension differences alone.

i have a friend with a drw 6.2 f350. it being a long bed drw with better suspension alone makes it much better. Have another friend with a 6.7 4 door short bed srw f250 and it sucks for towing.
Well to be fair my 3500HD is a SRW. The difference between a 2500HD and 3500HD SRW is one leaf spring. Diesel or gasser on the GM trucks.
 
Have to disagree. A WD hitch is to take excess weight off of the rear axle and move it to the front axle that got light from a heavy trailer. Most, probably all WD hitch instructions have you measuring the body drop over the rear axle and rise over the front axle and adjusting the rear up and front down to a certain spec. Maybe you mean the same thing.

RV forums have lots of guys hauling heavy with 1/2 ton trucks and defend doing it ferociously. There are also lots of guys who were hauling heavy and got scared by a close call, went to a 3/4 ton and say they can't believe the difference. I've never seen anyone go from a 3/4 to a 1/2 ton and say they like it so much better.

You had to put heavy A/S bars and springs on the truck to get it up to the task. Still curious if you're within the truck's load specs.

The WD hitch also moves weight to the axles of the trailer being towed as well. The front of the truck really shouldn't be any higher than 1" if it's properly adjusted. I tow all over the country with a 5,000 pound travel trailer with a WD/anti sway hitch properly adjusted and my truck (2018 SILVERADO) IS COMPLETLY STOCK. The payload is 1,444 pounds.
 
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I’d suggest 3/4 ton minimum and the best hitch with stabilizing bars or better yet goose neck trailer. Gas is less expensive to service.

The weight is not as significant as much as the dynamic load as horses shift weight as you drive. Hitch setup matters. My sister/mom grew up with horses. We had a 3/4 ton diesel Suburban albeit a 1988.
 
Yes he wants 4 wheel, goose style bed hitch, long bed, single rear wheel.
 
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Lots of great information in this thread. A few thoughts to highlight.

A gasser and a gooseneck combination can be a challenge to fuel up. Diesel lanes typically don't have an "unleaded" option. Someone mentioned in this thread fuel tank capacity, another big issue as gasser suck down the fuel when towing a loaded trailer.

Gear ratio is a really big issue. A smaller gas engine might struggle with a loaded enclosed trailer and a 4+ gear ratio. I think a 4+ gear ratio is critical, so if you go with a gasser, go big.

Weight is a much bigger issue for multiple reasons with a gasser when compared to a diesel. Strongly suggest an aluminum trailer over a steel trailer.

Attached are pictures of my horse trailer setup. I run a 2002 6.8L V10 gasser, 4.3 rear end, and a Featherlite gooseneck. It does great. Only thing is I wish I had the 8 foot bed over the 6 foot bed. And if one gets a 6 foot bed with a gooseneck, make sure the front if the trailer has a "V" design, or the front of the trailer may end up kissing the truck cab while backing up, etc. And from what I understand the longer the wheelbase the more stable the towing will be.

horse trailer.webp
gooseneck.webp
horse trailer1.webp
 
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I tow a 7k trailer. I previously towed with an 03 avalanche. Underpowered, undergeared for this load. Even with front big brake upgrade, I am blown away by how much easier and less stressful, towing with a 2500 . Amazing difference.
 
I use a military surplus M36A2 to tow things…

Long version of the M35, multi fuel , burns almost anything…

I would look for a Expansible Van M934, 6 cylinder Cummins,
back of truck becomes a camper…
 
I would get a diesel dually simply for ease of fuel pump access on the interstate system and the added safety margin of dual rear tires for the 5th wheel.
 
I ran a 2011 ram 1500, quad cab 6.5 box for 6 years hauling heavy. Air bags, e rated tires, 3.92 gears. It did quite well for what it was. Some heavy static loads and upwards of 10k when hauling a loaded 5 horse goose neck.

The thing had power and pretty stable but once in a while the tail wagged the dog. When a horse was mad, you felt it.

I suggest minimum 3/4 ton. Bigger axles, brakes and more weight. Gives you more control all around, especially with live weight.

Since 2017 i have run a 3500 6.7 Aisin, mega cab, 6.5 box SRW. Overkill for a lot of my hauling but it runs the show. Never short on power, exhaust brake really works well and can return decent fuel mileage. Once in a while you can still feel the 5 horse and truck move when a horse is being stupid.
 
Thanks for all the information on the thread. I'm the friend he's asking for. Not sure it will help but what we have is a 4 star 2+1 gooseneck aluminum trailer which is just shy of 6k pounds according to the manufacturer. I figure two horses, water, food & camping supplies gets us to around 10k.

What we're looking for is a 3/4 ton or 1 ton, SRW, 4x4, 8' bed, extended or crew cab. Originally we had been thinking diesel for the mileage while towing, power if we start traveling farther through actual hills/mountains and longevity in general (currently using a '95 F250 extended cab, 8' bed, 7.3 diesel, with a manual transmission). What little we found out researching has us leaning towards 3.73 axle ratio.

I'm more open to a newer gas option than my wife but concerned about power and fuel consumption. I remember towing an older steel trailer with a gas pickup and getting about 6 mpg on basically flat land. But as repeatedly pointed out, the $9-10k premium for a diesel buys a lot of gas.

Wife leans towards Ford, I lean towards GMC/Chevy but we're mostly agnostic and want the least headache to do what we want. Not concerned about the latest bluetooth, navigation, premium sound, etc.
 
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