You Can't Change Your Oil Too Much!

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well during the last couple years with everything that was going on if I could find the Exxon Mobil 0w30 for under 25 bucks I ended up in always bought a jug now I'm sitting on like 10 jugs of it. I may go over on this oil change by a week as the technician who does my CVT service won't be available till the following weekend so what I will do is probably siphon a couple quarts out and refill. I think oil changing is important but the more often you do it the better you get at it and the more careless you get and sometimes that's where we forget things like checking to make sure that there's the oil filter gasket has came off or putting on a drain plug gasket was forgotten.
 
You don’t need statistics from Honda. There’s plenty of videos from techs and amateur mechanics that show for example headgasket failure on the 1.5t engines
No, you need statistics to analyze data and compare reliability of 1.5t to other engines. Just because you dont hear much on social media does not mean there is no issue.
 


The amount of information about the Honda engine fuel dilution issue is massive ... so I guess it's really not a problem and just in everyone's imagination. 😂
 
But that's just it...nobody actually has the experience to base all the hysteria over this issue on. I don't see/hear aobut Honda engines having any issues by all my friends/neighbors that have them. At this point we'd know if this was an issue that was worth worrying about.
Most people don't do religious UOAs and keep those records from day one to monitor the engine's health, and most people don't tear down engines to inspect for excessive wear and damage. Most people just drive the vehicle and if it moves and "seems to be running OK", then they think all is well when in fact it really may not be. Most people only think something is wrong when the engine starts acting up in an obvious way, or "blows-up" in a drastic way. Most people are not totally "tuned in" to their engine as long as it runs, it's "just fine" in their mind.
 
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If Honda designed the motor this way....it is as much as you may not like it..."normal" for that engine.
"Normal" doesn't automatically mean "good". Someone can say that whatever the end result of a design and manufacturing of a product is "normal" because "it is what it is" and that's how it turned out. But that does not mean the design is good or optimum. In this case, it's not good or optimum because it's not "normal" compared to many other engine designs with respect to fuel dilution with use.
 
I mean if someone has as was quoted earlier 20% dilution, I assume that number from a UOA? What were the wear metals like? Surely that excess wear on bearings, valve guides, etc would show, right? Seems to me like modern oils can take some fuel and still provide adequate protection, isn’t that the point of engine oil?
Do the experiment I proposed earlier and you can find out first hand what a 7,500 to 10,000 OCI with 20% fuel dilution would show on an UOA compared to a non-fuel diluted OCI of the same length with the same oil. Use a 0W-20 to simulate what those diluting Hondas are suppose to run. Yes, motor oils can take "some" fuel dilution (typically less than 5%), but when it gets to 20+% as many articles have said it can have a dramatic impact on lubrication. Go prove it to yourself on your own vehicles if you don't think it's a big deal. Otherwise, your claims that it has zero impact on engine wear and longevity is just counter noise towards all the links posted up on how fuel dilution can impact lubrication.
 
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"Normal" doesn't automatically mean "good". Someone can say that whatever the end result of a design and manufacturing of a product is "normal" because "it is what it is" and that's how it turned out. But that does not mean the design is good or optimum. In this case, it's not good or optimum because it's not "normal" compared to many other engine designs with respect to fuel dilution with use.
I didn't say it was.
 
You said it was "normal" for that engine. So you agree that the design sucks in terms of controlling fuel dilution?
Yep...100%.

Edit. My comment is folks flip out when things don't do what they think is normal based on other vehicles. Normal is defined, to me, as what is normal for the vehicle at hand. Expecting a fanchise Honda dealer to "do something about it" when they have no way of getting paid or re-engineering the vehicle is unreasonable - telling a customer "it's normal" if that's all the info they have is..."normal". Once Honda issues info to dealers, then sure, they should regurgitate that info. Honda clearly has acknowledged it (thanks @OVERKILL for the links). I don't take much from CA law suites frankly b/c many folks over sensationalize issues like this and are always looking for someone to pay them out on their vehicles - I'm sure some of the claims are of course legit. My MK7 Golf needed a water pump at 75K. This seems to be a v. common occurrence. That's, as much as it may not be for other cars...normal for this vehicle much like carbon build up on intake valves with GDI engines is quite normal and carbon-cleaning can just be a maintenance item. Not normal on PI engines of course so using that as the basis for normal isn't logical at all but folks do it all the time. Here, the fuel issue, under the right conditions it sounds like, can be normal. My continued question even though @OVERKILL did answer it with the links is that yes, this has caused issues and Honda has tried to remedy it with software update and there have been it sounds like some lubrication-related failures...likely in the more extreme cases. Folks always go to the extrmeme in these posts/issues when in fact, that isn't the case for majority of owners. There are (I counted today on my way into my neighborhood) 8 1.5 Hondas that could be impacted by this issue. If I talked to the owners, I wonder how many have had fuel-dilution driven mechanical issues, fuel dilution issues in general (the large quantity of fuel some have reported increasing their oil volume by a quart, etc.)? I'm going with here where we are in VA/mild winter climate - none...1 maybe? I'd buy a Honda with this engine and just be mindful of the possible issue. My friends 3 doors up own 2 Civics with the 1.5 for their teenagers and another a street over has one for their son, former next door has a CRV for their daughter...never heard anything about it but to be fair, they likely have no clue and if I brought up they'd look at me like "huh?" which goes back to a comment I made earlier that mild fuel dilution isn't going to hurt you engine with regular oil changes and heck, most folks aren't keeping these cars more than 5 years anyway...maybe second-gen owners will start to see some sporadic issues?
 
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Yep...100%.

Edit. My comment is folks flip out when things don't do what they think is normal based on other vehicles. Normal is defined, to me, as what is normal for the vehicle at hand.
20%+ fuel dilution is not "normal" for any vehicle. It's a problem, and not "normal" in any way. A vehicle can have all kinds of problems going on, that someone could say are "normal" for that vehicle, but that doesn't mean they are not problems that need to be addressed. Excessive fuel dilution isn't "normal" in any respect on any vehicle, no more than burning a quart of oil every 500 miles is "normal" even though some might burn oil at that rate.
 
Carry this over to personal health. There are people running around with blood sugar levels well over 300, and A1C levels of 9+. It doesn't mean they're going to die. It doesn't.
My life 100%. A few years ago while in college I went to smoke a cigarette out on my front porch and woke up in the hospital. Apparently my gf found me laying down blue in the face and freezing cold and she couldn’t wake me up. She called 911, and they administered narcan thinking I was on drugs (the city I lived in during that time was on par with Baltimore). Come to find out my blood sugar was about 400 and went into a diabetic coma and did not even know I had diabetes at the time
 
Thanks for the education folks! I didn't mean to ask a stupid question.

I should've known that there's no such thing as a simple answer. The world is a better place because there are people who are passionate about oil!

Meanwhile, I will continue short-changing manufacturer recommended OCIs, at least as long as I can afford it.

I can see no compelling evidence that shaving 20% or more off a manufacturer recommended OCI is going to hurt anything, and while it might cost me a few more bucks, in the big picture, it's cheap insurance.

And thanks to BITOG, I have access to some of the best deals on oil too!
 
About how long can an air filter be expected to last out there? I'm talking about the standard OEM paper pleated replacement from any of the major brands.
Cone type filters that seal onto the intake tube tend to do better than your regular drop-in style filter; the seal around the air filter box deteriorates overtime, unless you apply Shin-Etsu grease on a very regular basis. But even then, the seal will eventually harden, crack and tear apart over time whereas cone filters, such as those found in GM applications, have a built-in seal that does very well because it always gets replaced with the air filter.

When it comes to filter media, regular paper filters do not last very long; by the time you hit 3,000 miles, you'll find you are due for a replacement. They also do not filter very well and have the tendency to clog up; the biggest issue I had with paper filters was fine particles of dust making it into the intake tract. In my experience, the best filter is one that is very lightly oiled; the FRAM Tough Guard has done extremely well for me in multiple applications.

The biggest mistake people make over here is they blow out their air filters with compressed air, which significantly degrades the filter media that was already exposed to multiple heat cycles; average intake air temperature in the summer is between 140°F - 160°F when stationary, which can be significantly higher in high congestion areas. On the freeway, intake temperatures will drop to the 120°F - 130°F range.

Air filtration is essentially a significant factor when it comes to oil changes over here, which is why I do not do extended drains on any application, regardless of how good the oil is. Factor in other considerations, such as high sulfur fuel, and old school full SAPS oil are still cream of the crop.
 
If you have fuel dilution, (regardless of make or engine type), throw away the owners manual in relation to OCI. You had better increase the OCI if you plan on having any type of a long engine life......

Regardless of the oil you choose. The best oil money can buy, diluted 20% with gasoline, isn't going to perform anywhere near as effectively as the cheapest non diluted dino oil.
 
If you have fuel dilution, (regardless of make or engine type), throw away the owners manual in relation to OCI. You had better increase the OCI if you plan on having any type of a long engine life......

Regardless of the oil you choose. The best oil money can buy, diluted 20% with gasoline, isn't going to perform anywhere near as effectively as the cheapest non diluted dino oil.
+1 Although I think you might have meant DECREASE the OCI. Fuel dilution [20% in this example] and extending the OCI because you are using a premium oil might just be the perfect formula for a shorter engine life.
 
I have a garage queen that gets about 1000-1500 miles a year. It takes 8.5 quarts and I used to change oil every 6 months.

It only runs on dry days and mild temps and when it run goes a minimum of 20 miles. I use Mobil 1 euro 5w-40 in it (specs 0w-20).

Will start changing every 2 years at this rate. Every 6 months was a waste, Oil looked like new, I almost saved it for use in the OPEs.
 
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