Cone type filters that seal onto the intake tube tend to do better than your regular drop-in style filter; the seal around the air filter box deteriorates overtime, unless you apply Shin-Etsu grease on a very regular basis. But even then, the seal will eventually harden, crack and tear apart over time whereas cone filters, such as those found in GM applications, have a built-in seal that does very well because it always gets replaced with the air filter.
When it comes to filter media, regular paper filters do not last very long; by the time you hit 3,000 miles, you'll find you are due for a replacement. They also do not filter very well and have the tendency to clog up; the biggest issue I had with paper filters was fine particles of dust making it into the intake tract. In my experience, the best filter is one that is very lightly oiled; the
FRAM Tough Guard has done extremely well for me in multiple applications.
The biggest mistake people make over here is they blow out their air filters with compressed air, which significantly degrades the filter media that was already exposed to multiple heat cycles; average intake air temperature in the summer is between 140°F - 160°F when stationary, which can be significantly higher in high congestion areas. On the freeway, intake temperatures will drop to the 120°F - 130°F range.
Air filtration is essentially a significant factor when it comes to oil changes over here, which is why I do not do extended drains on any application, regardless of how good the oil is. Factor in other considerations, such as high sulfur fuel, and old school full SAPS oil are still cream of the crop.