Yet another thick vs thin oil question.

[BuickGN]

 Originally Posted By: MrWideTires

I see you like thick oils (10w40 is relatively thick, not thin) But you could use start-up protection, so try one of these: - GC 0W30 (it's thicker, like a 0W40) - Mobil1 0W40 - Eneos 0W50 - Mobil1 5w50 - Castrol Syntec 5w50

I doubt those 5w-50s are any thinner than the 15w-40 at normal starting temperatures.

 

[FrankN4]

 Originally Posted By: peterdes

 Originally Posted By: FrankN4

I have over 2,000,000 miles on various new vehicles from little 1.5L I4, DOHC, little 2.2L push-rod engines, V6 engines, and big GM V8 engines, all with Mobil 1 15W-50. I run it year round. I have one daily use truck with 300,000+ miles and one daily use car with 212,000+ miles on M1 15W-50. I have used 50 grade oils since 1963 in every vehicle I have owned. Before that I used straight Kendall 40.

Your stories all over the board have persuaded me to use m1 15w50 my next oil change. Going in a flat 4.6. Currently running YB 10w40

I lived in Margate, just west of Deerfield Beach from 1969-1976. There used to be some great bass fishing in the canals west of Jupiter. That is where I learned about a little critter called a pygmy rattlesnake.

 

[MrWideTires]

 Originally Posted By: BuickGN

 Originally Posted By: MrWideTires

I see you like thick oils (10w40 is relatively thick, not thin) But you could use start-up protection, so try one of these: - GC 0W30 (it's thicker, like a 0W40) - Mobil1 0W40 - Eneos 0W50 - Mobil1 5w50 - Castrol Syntec 5w50

I doubt those 5w-50s are any thinner than the 15w-40 at normal starting temperatures.

But he could use the start up protection.. Why use a 20w50, when a 5w50 exists?

 

[BuickGN]

 Originally Posted By: MrWideTires

 Originally Posted By: BuickGN

 Originally Posted By: MrWideTires

I see you like thick oils (10w40 is relatively thick, not thin) But you could use start-up protection, so try one of these: - GC 0W30 (it's thicker, like a 0W40) - Mobil1 0W40 - Eneos 0W50 - Mobil1 5w50 - Castrol Syntec 5w50

I doubt those 5w-50s are any thinner than the 15w-40 at normal starting temperatures.

But he could use the start up protection.. Why use a 20w50, when a 5w50 exists?

It's possible the 20w-50 is more sheer stable. If they're both made from say a grp II or both from a grp III, this should be true since the 5w-50 will have more VIIs. If the 20w-50 is a grp II and the 5w-50 is an IV or V, then chances are the 5w-50 has better cold flow along with equal or better hot protection.

 

[aquariuscsm]

 Originally Posted By: BuickGN

It's possible the 20w-50 is more sheer stable.

I`ve been told that 20W50 is the most sheer stable weight of all the multi-vis oils.

 

[gungoat]

I dunno, what would you rather have in your motor,sewing machine oil or peanut butter? just a thought.

 

[Peted]

 Originally Posted By: gungoat

I dunno, what would you rather have in your motor,sewing machine oil or peanut butter? just a thought.

 

[PT1]

 Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm

Soooooooo,if you like to drive it like you stole it,which oil is better over the long run? A thin or thick??????

If you are beating on the engine frequently, I would use a 20w50 or at least a 15w40. Have you considered a straight 40w? Thicker is better for lots of heavy pounding on the engine. Thinner better for lower rpm driving and cold start day to day. Which is why I use 5w30 in my car, 25w40 in my boat and 20w50 in my air cooled motorcycle.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I don`t abuse my car in any way whatsoever,BUT,I drive it the way a sportscar is meant to be driven. It`s a 3 liter dohc V6 that gets it`s horsepower in the upper rpm range. It`s not a low rpm torquey motor. You don`t feel the power till you hit about 3000 rpm. The thicker oil definitely makes upper band rpms smoother and more responsive. I like to get on it when I`m on the highway too. It spins a lil over 3000 rpm at 70mph.

 

[cfromc]

 Originally Posted By: MrWideTires

 Originally Posted By: BuickGN

 Originally Posted By: MrWideTires

I see you like thick oils (10w40 is relatively thick, not thin) But you could use start-up protection, so try one of these: - GC 0W30 (it's thicker, like a 0W40) - Mobil1 0W40 - Eneos 0W50 - Mobil1 5w50 - Castrol Syntec 5w50

I doubt those 5w-50s are any thinner than the 15w-40 at normal starting temperatures.

But he could use the start up protection.. Why use a 20w50, when a 5w50 exists?

Are there any 5W-50 oils that stay 5W-50 until the end of the OCI?

 

[aquariuscsm]

I wonder which oil can take a beating better..........Valvoline 20W50 dino white bottle,or Mobil 1 15W50 silver cap?

 

[Gary Allan]

I suspect both about the same. One will give you better startup performance and will cost a lot more to replace. If the beating is severe enough, you won't be able to keep the more expensive stuff in service to extract the extra cost ..but in the same token ..if you're putting that much of a beating on something, requiring this weight oil, economics are probably limited to whether you get a better set of rods next refit ..or reuse the old ones one more time.

 

[FZ1]

Synthetic will take more of a beating.

 

[Gary Allan]

Do you mean "same beating longer", FZ1? ..or more severe a beating under any length of service?

 

[ekpolk]

Oh look -- 0w-20 and 0w-40 M1, back-to-back, same car, 0w-40 no better than the 20. . . Click here to see the UOAs. Read down to where the vis typo is corrected.

 

[StevieC]

It's not thickness it's how you use it!

 

[aquariuscsm]

 Originally Posted By: Gary Allan

Do you mean "same beating longer", FZ1? ..or more severe a beating under any length of service?

I don`t abuse or race my car by any means,but these cars are meant to be driven hard,and that`s how I drive it. If you granny drive around in them too much,they`ll let you know it and run very sluggish until you open her up a bit. 3.0 liter engine that redlines at 8000rpm,doesn`t get it`s power till over 3000,and in Texas on the Interstates,if you cruise under 80mph,you`ll get run over. At 70mph,it runs a lil over 3000rpm,so I`m definitely more comfortable with a thicker oil.

 

[aquariuscsm]

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

Oh look -- 0w-20 and 0w-40 M1, back-to-back, same car, 0w-40 no better than the 20. . . Click here to see the UOAs. Read down to where the vis typo is corrected.

Those UOA`s are virtually identical!

 

[Gary Allan]

 Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

Oh look -- 0w-20 and 0w-40 M1, back-to-back, same car, 0w-40 no better than the 20. . . Click here to see the UOAs. Read down to where the vis typo is corrected.

Those UOA`s are virtually identical!

Yes, they are. The only distinction between them is that the 0w-40 used only a 1/4 quart and the 0w-20 used 2 quarts with one not added at the time of the sampling (add @ 5k miles). ..but back to the 20w-50 vs. 15w-50M1 ..I think neither are required for the service you describe. I don't think you're going to see a longer life from your engine.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Is there a technical requirement for anything over the 4.1cP that 15w-40 HD oils posess? imo, one of the smoothest oils I ever used was Delvac 15w-40.