Yep, do you buy oil for the worst case scenario or for the most likely scenario.
Yeah in Australia I'm more worried when my radiator begins to clog as I'm driving through soft, deep dusty roads in the outback. Then I see my engine temp begin to climb. I once drove from Mt Isa to Darwin in the middle of Australia in the middle of summer, my over-temp warning light was gently flickering the whole way. I was running Penrite HPR30 (20W-60).Very few generally available engines can generate enough internal pressure to overwhelm a quality synthetic 0W-20 where 0W-20 is spec'd or allowed. In the rinse-repeat of daily driving, your engines greatest enemy is start up idling where combustion by-products like water vapor form acidic compounds and oil weights are rather moot. If you really want to save your engine worry less about weights and rip out the remote/autostart your wife wants to warm up the car in the morning. Granted this isn't as much of an issue in Australia, but it sure is in North America...
Back in 1990, I drove from Kakadu, near Darwin, down to The Rock in a big, rented Ford Falcon. Definitely up there in my Top 10 life experiences!Yeah in Australia I'm more worried when my radiator begins to clog as I'm driving through soft, deep dusty roads in the outback. Then I see my engine temp begin to climb. I once drove from Mt Isa to Darwin in the middle of Australia in the middle of summer, my over-temp warning light was gently flickering the whole way. I was running Penrite HPR30 (20W-60).
Have you tried their forums? Swear I’ve seen some back in the day. From what I can recall 5000 mile uoas came back just fine no worries. As for the Acura brand, not sure.Hi all,
I have searched but couldn't find:
1) UOA - Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 on Acura/Honda vehicle
2) UOA - Acura branded synthetic blend oil 5w-20
Maybe someone can help me find thread/posts?
How about stop-and-go traffic (every major city in US at rush hour) in ambient temperatures at street level of 100F/37-38C (intake temp even higher)?It's very easy in this game to construct a scenario where a 0W20 can be 'engineered' to fail.
Basically yes, and yes I agree that MOFT is a consideration. It's just not the only one and I doubt my 160 HP Focus will notice or complian that I have 0W-20 M1 AN in it currently. I probably will be using 5W-30 in summer irregardless just to move out my stash.What's exactly meant by "internal pressure"? I'm assuming you mean force in the bearings due to combustion. There is more to what causes MOFT between moving parts besides "internal pressure".
It seems that the bigoted opinions on thinner oils will persist. The myriad of SAE papers, historical data, and independent testing just cannot change the biased thinking of otherwise intelligent people.
I already changed it with Mobil 1 EP 0W-20. I may try the Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 next time. Thanks.
Okay. I am going to try 5w30 in my Tundra from the 0w20 after some conversations on the forum about engine wear and longevity.