Thick vs thin debate...

Messages
36
Location
WA
Hi all,

I have searched but couldn't find:
1) UOA - Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 on Acura/Honda vehicle
2) UOA - Acura branded synthetic blend oil 5w-20

Maybe someone can help me find thread/posts?
 
Messages
80
Been using 0W20 since 2006 without any problems whatsoever.

It's very easy in this game to construct a scenario where a 0W20 can be 'engineered' to fail. I'm sure if I drove my little Suzuki up a mountain in Death Valley on the hottest day of the millennium, with two 40 stone blobbies on the back seat, while towing a boat... I too might see a few extra ppm of wear metals in my used oil. Sadly my driving experience is somewhat more mundane as is, I suspect, 99% of other drivers experience.

There is a very good reason for using 0W20. I can get 72 mpg (about 60 US) from regular unleaded. Without wanting to encroach on politics, this is important; maybe not to you now but it will be to your kids & their kids in the future. Get with the Zeitgeist folks. Thin is the smart choice.
 
Messages
1,040
Location
New York
Yep, do you buy oil for the worst case scenario or for the most likely scenario.

Very few generally available engines can generate enough internal pressure to overwhelm a quality synthetic 0W-20 where 0W-20 is spec'd or allowed. In the rinse-repeat of daily driving, your engines greatest enemy is start up idling where combustion by-products like water vapor form acidic compounds and oil weights are rather moot. If you really want to save your engine worry less about weights and rip out the remote/autostart your wife wants to warm up the car in the morning. Granted this isn't as much of an issue in Australia, but it sure is in North America...
 
Messages
27,234
Location
PNW
What's exactly meant by "internal pressure"? I'm assuming you mean force in the bearings due to combustion. There is more to what causes MOFT between moving parts besides "internal pressure".
 

SR5

Messages
5,903
Location
Down Under
Very few generally available engines can generate enough internal pressure to overwhelm a quality synthetic 0W-20 where 0W-20 is spec'd or allowed. In the rinse-repeat of daily driving, your engines greatest enemy is start up idling where combustion by-products like water vapor form acidic compounds and oil weights are rather moot. If you really want to save your engine worry less about weights and rip out the remote/autostart your wife wants to warm up the car in the morning. Granted this isn't as much of an issue in Australia, but it sure is in North America...
Yeah in Australia I'm more worried when my radiator begins to clog as I'm driving through soft, deep dusty roads in the outback. Then I see my engine temp begin to climb. I once drove from Mt Isa to Darwin in the middle of Australia in the middle of summer, my over-temp warning light was gently flickering the whole way. I was running Penrite HPR30 (20W-60).
 
Messages
80
Yeah in Australia I'm more worried when my radiator begins to clog as I'm driving through soft, deep dusty roads in the outback. Then I see my engine temp begin to climb. I once drove from Mt Isa to Darwin in the middle of Australia in the middle of summer, my over-temp warning light was gently flickering the whole way. I was running Penrite HPR30 (20W-60).
Back in 1990, I drove from Kakadu, near Darwin, down to The Rock in a big, rented Ford Falcon. Definitely up there in my Top 10 life experiences!
This was before I made the jump from 'fuelie' to 'lubie'. If any oil warning lights came on, I either wouldn't have noticed them or just ignored them if I did...
 
Messages
233
Location
Toronto
Hi all,

I have searched but couldn't find:
1) UOA - Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 on Acura/Honda vehicle
2) UOA - Acura branded synthetic blend oil 5w-20

Maybe someone can help me find thread/posts?
Have you tried their forums? Swear I’ve seen some back in the day. From what I can recall 5000 mile uoas came back just fine no worries. As for the Acura brand, not sure.
 
Messages
359
Location
VA, US
It's very easy in this game to construct a scenario where a 0W20 can be 'engineered' to fail.
How about stop-and-go traffic (every major city in US at rush hour) in ambient temperatures at street level of 100F/37-38C (intake temp even higher)?
That's listed as "heavy usage" in most car maintenance manuals.
Those are screen shots from my car, last summer (before and after I added a transmission cooler), US location. Transmission is OE cooled with the engine coolant. Same with the engine oil.
We have less Sulfur/Zinc in our oils too, so that's less protection no matter how you dice it.

PS: My latitude is 36.98° N, compared to London's 51.50° N.
static-lat-0dc022a4b193dbfb9127d18387513912.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20200728-133850_Torque.jpg
    Screenshot_20200728-133850_Torque.jpg
    83.4 KB · Views: 13
  • Screenshot_20200719-145949_Torque.jpg
    Screenshot_20200719-145949_Torque.jpg
    79.5 KB · Views: 13
Last edited by a moderator:
Messages
1,040
Location
New York
What's exactly meant by "internal pressure"? I'm assuming you mean force in the bearings due to combustion. There is more to what causes MOFT between moving parts besides "internal pressure".
Basically yes, and yes I agree that MOFT is a consideration. It's just not the only one and I doubt my 160 HP Focus will notice or complian that I have 0W-20 M1 AN in it currently. I probably will be using 5W-30 in summer irregardless just to move out my stash.

But yes I wouldn't think of using 0W-20 in my brother's Porsche 911, if he ever gets it back from the engine builder in GA...
 
Messages
1,401
Location
Sarasota, Florida
I studied oil viscosity while in high school. In the 1970s there was a lack of shear stability due to lesser base oils, fuel dilution and inferior additives. Big, powerful engines ended up running on 10? and 20 grade motor oils. So thin oils in SI engines is nothing new.

For decades now millions of cars, trucks and big SUVs have been running on 20 grade oils without ill effects. These thinner oils result in better fuel economy, more power and improved get up and go especially when we are driving shorter distances with each turn of the key. And thinner oils are on the way.

It seems that the bigoted opinions on thinner oils will persist. The myriad of SAE papers, historical data, and independent testing just cannot change the biased thinking of otherwise intelligent people.

FYI: The owner of Ferrari of Tampa Bay just bought my Enzo after exhaustive testing in the shop. The engine was as good as new according to the mechanics analysis, actually better than any Enzo motor they have ever seen or cared for. Incidentally, I have run nothing but 0-20 and 0-30 grade oils in the engine that is spec'ed for a 10W-60 oil. Studies will continue in the 812 Superfast. It is spec'ed for a 5-40 and has 150 more HP than the Enzo.

AEHaas
 
Messages
12,973
Location
North Carolina
It seems that the bigoted opinions on thinner oils will persist. The myriad of SAE papers, historical data, and independent testing just cannot change the biased thinking of otherwise intelligent people.

AEHaas
I already changed it with Mobil 1 EP 0W-20. I may try the Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 next time. Thanks.
Okay. I am going to try 5w30 in my Tundra from the 0w20 after some conversations on the forum about engine wear and longevity.

I can't figure out where you stand on this?
 
Top