I just saw this, Dr. Haas that is one of the most informative interpretations i've seen recently. But i have a question, how do you get 2,000 and 4,000 rpm WOT? is it rev/throttle limited? repeated instantaneous passing thru? hard to grasp that concept
Attn thick oil guys,20W50 vs 10W40 film strength.
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My understanding is that they press the pedal to the metal, then increase the load so as to obtain the desired RPM.
oh thanks, but that might create some bias? like driving thru quicksand? To bad they can't hook it up to a dyno-like machine that simulates the road/weight accel resistance
Thanks for giving us a summary of the article.
I can now see why its a good idea to run a block heater in the winter and not to drive the car to "easy" so it takes longer to warm up.
I can now see why its a good idea to run a block heater in the winter and not to drive the car to "easy" so it takes longer to warm up.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
The engine was rebuilt about 75,000 miles ago.
Ah. Then I wonder what the grey film was?
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
It has never had leaded fuel in it and believe it or not the owners manual recommends unleaded. I was surprised myself when I found that out. I think those huge V-8's were under the EPA's gun long before the smaller engines were.
The EPA required that all engines sold in the US be CAPABLE of running on unleaded by 73, or maybe even 72. And the manufacturers were encouraged to recommend unleaded. Unleaded really wasn't mandatory until 75 when catcons were required. That same recommendation to use unleaded is in the owners manual of my '73 Satellite. It ran leaded fuel most of the time until circa 1982, though.
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
Being a carbureted car it dirties up the oil a lot quicker than the newer computer controlled, injected cars do.
YMMV. I run synthetic in everything, and do 5000-7000 mile OCIs on the carbureted cars too. As long as you regularly get the oil hot enough to prevent fuel dilution, the extra soot load from running a little richer on average than an EFI system really doesn't hurt. If it did, diesels would be in big trouble! A well-tuned carb has precious little advantage over EFI at normal operating temps and highway cruising. Where EFI really gains the advantage is during the warm-up cycle and lots of load changes (city stop-and-go driving).
Well, I don't know what the grey film in the bottom of the pan was. I'm assuming it is just normal wear metals from break in and normal wear. I have 40 to 45 lbs of oil pressure at idle when cold and 35 to 40 psi on a hot day when at idle. Cadillac only requires 10 psi at idle.
The car runs great, doesn't burn any oil and doesn't use any(at least now that I have the oil pan, valve cover gasket and oil sender leaks fixed) so I don't think the very slight grey film on the bottom of the pan is any sign of trouble.
My transmission has a very slight grey coating in the pan when I change the fluid and it works perfectly also with 192,000 miles on it.
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
The engine was rebuilt about 75,000 miles ago.
Ah. Then I wonder what the grey film was?
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
It has never had leaded fuel in it and believe it or not the owners manual recommends unleaded. I was surprised myself when I found that out. I think those huge V-8's were under the EPA's gun long before the smaller engines were.
The EPA required that all engines sold in the US be CAPABLE of running on unleaded by 73, or maybe even 72. And the manufacturers were encouraged to recommend unleaded. Unleaded really wasn't mandatory until 75 when catcons were required. That same recommendation to use unleaded is in the owners manual of my '73 Satellite. It ran leaded fuel most of the time until circa 1982, though.
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
Being a carbureted car it dirties up the oil a lot quicker than the newer computer controlled, injected cars do.
YMMV. I run synthetic in everything, and do 5000-7000 mile OCIs on the carbureted cars too. As long as you regularly get the oil hot enough to prevent fuel dilution, the extra soot load from running a little richer on average than an EFI system really doesn't hurt. If it did, diesels would be in big trouble! A well-tuned carb has precious little advantage over EFI at normal operating temps and highway cruising. Where EFI really gains the advantage is during the warm-up cycle and lots of load changes (city stop-and-go driving).
Well, I don't know what the grey film in the bottom of the pan was. I'm assuming it is just normal wear metals from break in and normal wear. I have 40 to 45 lbs of oil pressure at idle when cold and 35 to 40 psi on a hot day when at idle. Cadillac only requires 10 psi at idle.
The car runs great, doesn't burn any oil and doesn't use any(at least now that I have the oil pan, valve cover gasket and oil sender leaks fixed) so I don't think the very slight grey film on the bottom of the pan is any sign of trouble.
My transmission has a very slight grey coating in the pan when I change the fluid and it works perfectly also with 192,000 miles on it.
Originally Posted By: sprintman
40W is NOT thick. 45W would be exactly mid range on commonly used viscosities worldwide (20W-70W0), 40W is under mid range.
Mobil 5w50 or Castrol Edge 10w60 ?
40W is NOT thick. 45W would be exactly mid range on commonly used viscosities worldwide (20W-70W0), 40W is under mid range.
Mobil 5w50 or Castrol Edge 10w60 ?
Originally Posted By: AEHaas
My understanding is that they press the pedal to the metal, then increase the load so as to obtain the desired RPM.
in another words that engine was under more load then it would ever see in real world conditions..
another question is how would this relate to different engines and different oil formulations
also what was the oil temperature and was it controlled?
My understanding is that they press the pedal to the metal, then increase the load so as to obtain the desired RPM.
in another words that engine was under more load then it would ever see in real world conditions..
another question is how would this relate to different engines and different oil formulations
also what was the oil temperature and was it controlled?
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Originally Posted By: vxcalais
Originally Posted By: sprintman
40W is NOT thick. 45W would be exactly mid range on commonly used viscosities worldwide (20W-70W0), 40W is under mid range.
Mobil 5w50 or Castrol Edge 10w60 ?
Use a BIG COUNTRY WEIGHT, M8 .. next thing you know, you'll be putting process VB in there.
Originally Posted By: sprintman
40W is NOT thick. 45W would be exactly mid range on commonly used viscosities worldwide (20W-70W0), 40W is under mid range.
Mobil 5w50 or Castrol Edge 10w60 ?
hehe, i wish. These oils have worked well for many years, i will be trying a 5w40 and i still have the jitters about doing so. I used to be able to pour oil without a funnel before, now with the thinner stuff, its a must.
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