lol. I was right there with you but solving a misfire. Whatever you do, do NOT do what I did and try double nutting the carburetor studs to remove them… then strip both nuts and one stud. I replaced the parts I broke wirh new genuine ones, and the nuts thread easily by finger now again!
What you need to do is remove the back cover 6 bolts, then there are 6 bolts on the front and rear plastics… pull those with a little impacter. The front won’t come all the way off so let it hang., but be easy on the wire!
Now the handle has about 4 Phillips screws, so pull those, then there is another Phillips screw near the top center on front and back, pull those, then there is a screw or maybe it was a bolt on the middle of the plastic panel, and finally three or 4 bolts on the bottom .
It will look like this.
View attachment 277852
The air box has two bolts, so get it out of the way.
At this point, lift the fuel tank just enough to slide the carberator off. The fuel hose and clamp are in the back of the carb.
This is what has to come off first.., for carb access.
View attachment 277856
Label ALL your bolts and screws in bags, and reassemble wirh hand tools only! Use a nut driver to start and a small quarter inch ratchet to tighten I’d you don’t use a torque wrench,
View attachment 277857
Now, when you pull the servo controller off the top of the carb, do NOT move it at all. It needs to be re-indexed full-throttle … exactly how it comes apart, or it won’t start and run!
Ow that you have pulled the carb, do yourself a favor and buy only Barryman’s B12 carb cleaner it is amazing and if is a pain to get this far, Do NOT spray any rubber or plastic parts!
Make certain you have torch tip cleaners or fine wire and shoot cleaner in every hole. Watch several YouTube Videos, but clean both jets AND the emulsion tube. There are tiny passage ways too…. The rule of thumb is if you shook carb cleaner in any hole, you should see it spray out other holes.
NOW TWO BIG THINGS.
If yours has a misfire at all at idle in economy mode like when not loaded, it is because the pilot jet is too small on later generation EF2200ISZ models. If yours is a newer model and always misfire a bit, replace the pilot jet with the one from the 2019 parts diagram! The holes are bigger, and it perfectly meters fuel.
Next before assembly install an hour meter that is also a tachometer (you will need the tach later). I strongly recommend Hardline by name. I have had several that are almost a decade old sril on the original battery. All you need to do is coil about 4 or 5 times around the plug wire, cut it to length, and then use the double-sided tape. It is 100% removable without a trace.
Here is where I put mine and how I routed the wire. It is just easier to do this when the plastic is off. You may also want to label the fuel gauge which way is full, too… a silver marker will do.
View attachment 277858
It displays hours… if I tap the button RPM, and it is in the correct mode right out of the box for this type of 4 stroke, so you can skip reading the instructions how to program it… the defaults are correct,
Now when you start your unit, I recommend starting it with anuro idle on. It will start high throttle and slowly idle down, which is best when an engine is cold.
It should be set to idle at 3,500 per the service manual. Mine holds 3,510 to 3,520 RPM, so I am not going to adjust it,.. and is as stable as a clock after I replaced that jet. If yours surges, a YouTube video suggests turning in the idle speed screw because it is hunting and not hitting a hard stop to know where the lowest is.
Each change you make to the idle screw takes a good 20 seconds for the servo to readjust after you manually move the throttle plate and use the screw driver.
Anyway, if the idle is lower than 3,500 it was set wrong by the factory, so bring it up to where that is EXACTLY where it idles.
Lastly. You need to do a check on the carburator choke cable. It should both fully open and fully close the choke. If set wrong, YOU should adjust it until you see that when you operate the choke it moves it lock to lock or stop to stop.
My spark plug from the factory was also improperly gapped, so check that, too. It is 0.026” to 0.028”. Mine was closer to 0.020” out of the box.
It is like night and day how much better mine runs now. Heck, mine even restarts without choke, which is unheard of on these I am told!
I am also going to suggest ethanol -free fuel if you can get it. Drain your carb after use! Frequent oil changes, and if you haven’t fully broken it in fully do that to about 25 hours with the first few oil changes very frequent like within the first oil change within the first hour. Increase your load where you are not at full load for almost 8 to 10 hours. Change the load, load and unload it to help set the rings (it ties to slow to not over speed). Lastly when you store it, pull the rope gently until compression is felt. That closes the valves sealing the combustion chamber!
