XG9018 C&P after HPL EC30

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I changed the oil in the Regal yesterday after running a quart of HPL EC30 through her for the last 2k miles. Filter was run for a total of 6k miles using Castrol Edge Euro 5W30. I'd say the HPL did it's job!

A Fram FE9018 (WM hasn't had XG's in stock for ages) and 6 quarts of PP Euro L 5W30 went on/in. Give just how MUCH junk was captured by the filter, I think I'll run this combo for 5k miles and do another dump. I don't have a good access point on the engine to compare cleanliness before/after, but dang am I impressed with HPL's product!
 
That's some 3d layers! So you're not running anymore EC30 or HPL for this next run?
Being that this was my first time trying HPL engine cleaner, I only ordered the one quart along with my transmission fluid order. I had NO idea how well it was going to work!

I used the PP Euro since it's what I had on hand this round. I got in on that WM 3x 5 qt. jug deal from a little while back, so that's what the fleet is getting this round of OC's (I service my Regal, our '02 Grand Cherokee 4.7, and our '06 Kia Spectra). I'd like to try the HPL EC in our Jeep now, after seeing the amazing results, so I just placed an order for 2 more quarts. The Jeep burns oil, as many older 4.7's do, so I'll throw a quart of EC in when it's low and coming up on it's next OC. The other quart will go in the Regal when it's approaching 2.5k miles till it's next change.
 
wow! better be glad you had an OG Ultra on there.
No doubt! That's also why it got an Endurance this time, as the Ultra wasn't available. I have to imagine that the PP Euro will continue to clean (to much less degree) alongside the remnants of EC that are still clinging to the remaining sludge in the engine, so having a top notch filter installed is even more key than regular use cases.
 
No doubt! That's also why it got an Endurance this time, as the Ultra wasn't available. I have to imagine that the PP Euro will continue to clean (to much less degree) alongside the remnants of EC that are still clinging to the remaining sludge in the engine, so having a top notch filter installed is even more key than regular use cases.
i thought my OG ultra was loaded but man yours here is on another level
 
i thought my OG ultra was loaded but man yours here is on another level
I couldn't believe it myself, especially with how well the rest of the car was cared for.
That's only part of the problem. That looks like it was short tripped, and the OCIs were over-extended.
You're very likely correct, which really lends to the strength of the Ecotec's in general. Not only that, but I'd fully expect to be having some turbo issues at this point (120k) however mine has ZERO shaft play at all. No oil burning to speak of, either. At idle, the only sound you hear is faint ticking from the DI. I should consider myself lucky that I got to things in time to start reversing the damage. Btw, your products are amazing!
 
Not only that, but I'd fully expect to be having some turbo issues at this point (120k) however mine has ZERO shaft play at all. No oil burning to speak of, either. At idle, the only sound you hear is faint ticking from the DI.
You might not have any issues. If that turbo charger has variable geometry, than what usually happens is the VNT goes out before there is any shaft play. They tend to go out from heat. However, I wouldn't expect that from someone who short tripped that vehicle for its entire life. That usually happens with vehicles that were driven hard.
 
You might not have any issues. If that turbo charger has variable geometry, than what usually happens is the VNT goes out before there is any shaft play. They tend to go out from heat. However, I wouldn't expect that from someone who short tripped that vehicle for its entire life. That usually happens with vehicles that were driven hard.
No VNT on these, AFAIK. It's a twin-scroll design, which my limited understanding leads me to believe that VNT isn't really necessary.
 
No VNT on these, AFAIK. It's a twin-scroll design, which my limited understanding leads me to believe that VNT isn't really necessary.
That's awesome then. I got a pair of D60 turbos with burned out VNTs, and zero shaft play. I'm considering replacing the VNT and keep using them. I have a friend that owns a machine shop, so I might pay him to do it, as he has the tools and experience to do it right the first time.
 
With those multiple layers like mentioned earlier --- like to see results after this oil change you implemented.
I'll definitely do an update next oil change, which won't be until the fall. I'm going to run a short 3-4k mile interval this go.
 
Just order the lowest cost HPL PCMO motor oil, and run that, it will clean better than the EC30. Alternatively, give Valvoline Restore&Protect a try. Walmart has it in stores now for a reasonable price.
I've got a stash of the PP Euro from the Amazon sale that was posted here, after this change I've got enough left for one more change + top-offs.

My plan of attack is to run this fresh PP/FE combo for 3k miles, at which point I'll drain/top off with another quart of EC and continue to run for another 2k. Final change with PP at that point, then I'll very likely switch to HPL once I know things are good and clean.
 
I would run the EC with the oil for 5K for a more ROI on the cleaning and swap the filter half way to get the most out of it.

Lucky for me i only have to deal with varnish on the oil fill baffle but overall the engine is running clean. Im probably gonna try the overkill combo of HPL oil with 1 quart of EC on the upcoming drain to see if any added extra esters will boost cleaning.
 
I've got a stash of the PP Euro from the Amazon sale that was posted here, after this change I've got enough left for one more change + top-offs.

My plan of attack is to run this fresh PP/FE combo for 3k miles, at which point I'll drain/top off with another quart of EC and continue to run for another 2k. Final change with PP at that point, then I'll very likely switch to HPL once I know things are good and clean.
All HPL PCMOs (from cheapest to most the most expensive - Super Car) have the exact same cleaning power. My suggestion to you is this: buy the lowest cost PCMO 5W-30 or 5W-40 and run it for 5000 to 7500 miles with intermediate oil filter changes. Change the first filter at 2000 miles, then at 2500 miles, and then at 3000 miles. At this point you could keep going, or change your oil. Take some pictures of how the engine looks. If it looks better, do another run. If it looks really good, finish your PP stash, and then switch to HPL permanently, if you wish to do so. I have done this in some vehicles. I have friends who didn't want to permanently switch to HPL due to cost, but still ordered enough for a couple of oil changes to clean their engines. IMHO it's the lowest cost approach.
 
A Fram FE9018 (WM hasn't had XG's in stock for ages) and 6 quarts of PP Euro L 5W30 went on/in. Give just how MUCH junk was captured by the filter, I think I'll run this combo for 5k miles and do another dump.
I'd change the filter much earlier than 5k. If it's a lot less clogged than the last one you cut open, then extend the interval on the next one. Using an oversized filter wouldn't be a bad idea.
 
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