WRX Oil Choices
- Thread starter Delta
- Start date
Bad recommendation, at least for RT6 5w40. If you put that in one of these newer engines (2010+) you can expect your dash to light up like a Christmas tree and have very noticeable issues in the event that you try to drive it.
I would agree with you that IN THE PAST (before MY2010) this has been a popular oil choice in the WRX crowd for vehicles that had been modified so to be able to use said oil product.
https://www.subaruoutback.org/posts/5957485/
I'm calling BS on that. While I don't think its as appropriate to the FA turbo engines as it was to the EJ series.. I wouldn't expect to see any dashes lighting up or have very noticeable issues. Maybe over an EXTENDED period more valve deposits etc.
Just a minor note: most people are suggesting m1 ESP 0w30 or ESP 5w30 specifically not m1 5w30. (although that would be ok... if thinner)
At least do some cursory research before calling BS because I am only sharing what has been widely reported, for over 10 years no less, by people who have actually tried doing it in the FA series Subaru engines. There's a big thread about this over at NASIOC (originating in 2015) for example.
My thought is, why does anyone NEED to use this specific product in an engine it was not intended for in the first place? Anyone who thinks that this motor oil has a cult following within the Subaru enthusiast crowd is 100% correct so much so that many people can't imagine not being able to use it in any Subaru application as a default presupposition not taking into consideration that it is a diesel oil intended to be used in diesel engines and in order to use it in certain gasoline engines it requires modifications to said vehicles that some may have not taken into consideration.
There is a reason why I put a link to that thread over at SubaruOutback.org in my previous post because it has been the case that I have seen countless times online in which people have to have all the basic details unpacked for them as to why it should not even be considered to be used in the first place, again as an erroneous presupposition.
I prefer to avoid giving bad recommendations based on insufficient understandings and instead seek to prevent the spread of misinformation and disinformation.
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It is gasoline engine rated as well, not just a diesel oil.
And what “modifications” does one need to make to run a 40 grade oil? We aren’t talking running unheated bunker fuel here.
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It really does seem like the default choice unless you need Euro specs. Pretty hard to beat.
At least for an initial clean up. Then maybe move on to something with a higher HT/HS.
But really how much wear protection are you leaving on the table with a HT/HS of 3.24? Compared to going to M1 ESP 0W-30 at 3.5. Is that going to translate to any meaningful difference over the life of an engine?
VRP's HT/HS is even higher than Amsoil SS's.
My 2 cents:
it comes down to the oil temps.
if he keeps it under 225f with occasional bursts above that a regular 5w30 should be adequate.
if hes seeing 230f+ often the thicker m1 esp could have advantages.
esp. after a dash or 2 of fuel dilution thinning.
My somewhat related FA24dit runs 195f-210f unless sitting in traffic with ac off.. it might rise abit as the coolant does at that time.
Even towing I didnt break 220f
I'd prefer facts rather than stories of old from nasioc.
PS back in 2015 when Rotella T 5w40 was blowing up engines, and causing immediate check engine lights apparently /sarcasm... it was API SN rated.
Because that is just utter nonsense doesn't pass the sniff test at all.
PS back in 2015 when Rotella T 5w40 was blowing up engines, and causing immediate check engine lights apparently /sarcasm... it was API SN rated.
Unfortunately you seem do have done the exact thing you prefer to avoid.
Because that is just utter nonsense doesn't pass the sniff test at all.
Cool guys, I remember a month or two ago someone on BITOG tied to convince me that it would be no issue to run 10W-60 in a Subaru engine that calls for 0W20. I'm pretty sure they were a card carrying member of the BITOG Hivemind/Brain Trust
I would personally recommend Mobil 1 ESP 0W30 if you want to go a grade up from 0w20, this is based on personal experience from using that specific oil in a Subaru FA series engine. I'm pretty sure that's what this thread is about not using RT6 5W40 arbitrarily because it was a Subaru crowd favorite 15 years ago.
I would personally recommend Mobil 1 ESP 0W30 if you want to go a grade up from 0w20, this is based on personal experience from using that specific oil in a Subaru FA series engine. I'm pretty sure that's what this thread is about not using RT6 5W40 arbitrarily because it was a Subaru crowd favorite 15 years ago.
Agree 100%. Oil temperature is key. My 18 Outback oil temp is around 230f+ often. ESP 0W-30 handles it like a champ.
That I would 100% agree with. The part I was disagreeing with was the RTS 5w40 API SN rated oil causing immediate damage and check engine lights.
As a long time NASIOC member you should know that the 2.0T WRX didnt spec 0w20, 5w30 was the recommended grade.
(API SN the same as RTS 5w40 at that time)
Note the funky owners manual "5w40 conventional can be used"
is there a 5w40 conventional?
I'm morbidly curious what my oil temps are, but I just have the most basic temp gauge possible. "C" to "H" without hash marks even.
that is probably the non turbo fb25 then? all mine ran much hotter than the FA24dit I currently have.
My FA20DIT has about 105k on it, never needs a top-up. 3k OCI since end of warranty. It is pretty common for them to consume at least some, and they're very well known for fuel dilution (hence why I stick to 3k). If doing UOA, keep in mind BS labs is known for poor dilution tests.I'm just shocked at having a questionable engine mile/age it hasn't used oil in the 700+ miles I've driven it. Place I bought it from uses bulk Valvoline.
I've used the gamut of popular 5w30s: PUP, Euro L, M1 ESP, Motul X-clean EFE, Valvoline/Napa HM Full Synth, Castrol Edge 5w30, plain old M1 AFS, plus the dealer bulk stuff before my warranty was out at 60k.
Can't say this motor seems that picky. Run premium gas, let them warm up before beating on them, clean your intake valves now and then, same stuff you do with any TGDI motor. These aren't EJs, rod bearings and head gaskets aren't the engine cancer they used to be.
Yes N/A. The turbos seem to have great oil cooling!
Walnut blasted?