would YOU drive 220mi to save $1K?
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Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
I have paid more in total to have a new car odered just the way I wanted it and shipped to me. However, the way I wanted it was withOUT certain options, so you could say I deliberately paid more for less.
I ordered a Citaion X-11 and it had an engine knock off the truck ;(
I have paid more in total to have a new car odered just the way I wanted it and shipped to me. However, the way I wanted it was withOUT certain options, so you could say I deliberately paid more for less.
I ordered a Citaion X-11 and it had an engine knock off the truck ;(
I'd only do that drive for Ferarri or Acura NSX. Hit the local dealer at the end of the month when he's one sale away from making quota.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I've done more for less - both buying cars and girlfriends.
Buy a girlfriend?
Just joking....
Talk to that other dealership, let them know what you want to do...and see what they say.
A buddt of mine drove about 150 miles to get a truck he wanted...they thought it was so cool, the dealership bought my buddy and his wife lunch, paid for their gas, a threw in some all season floor mats....
I've done more for less - both buying cars and girlfriends.
Buy a girlfriend?
Just joking....
Talk to that other dealership, let them know what you want to do...and see what they say.
A buddt of mine drove about 150 miles to get a truck he wanted...they thought it was so cool, the dealership bought my buddy and his wife lunch, paid for their gas, a threw in some all season floor mats....
I am with everyone else on this.
Try to get your local dealer to match this.
If they won't, I'd surely drive 440 miles round trip to save a grand of my own money.
From what you have said, though, this is not a pure play.
A trade-in is involved.
That being the case, you could get jerked around by the dealer 220 miles ditant on the value of the trade-in.
The savings will come to $2.27/mile for the 440 miles, less expenses for fuel and maybe food, of course.
Any difference in trade-in value could easily eat up your savings.
Try to get your local dealer to match this.
If they won't, I'd surely drive 440 miles round trip to save a grand of my own money.
From what you have said, though, this is not a pure play.
A trade-in is involved.
That being the case, you could get jerked around by the dealer 220 miles ditant on the value of the trade-in.
The savings will come to $2.27/mile for the 440 miles, less expenses for fuel and maybe food, of course.
Any difference in trade-in value could easily eat up your savings.
If I was straight-up buying the car, heck yes. I'd try to deal with the local dealer first. Assuming the locals weren't cooperating, I'd flip them the figurative bird and buy from someone else. And rake them over the coals if the warranty work wasn't done to spec.
Had our Durango shipped 350 miles for $320. Saved $1800 over buying a vehicle in similar condition locally. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Distance ain't nothin' but a number.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2026
I drove 380 miles to get my 5th Wheel, installed the hitch at the guys house, turned around and pulled it home.
All because it was a good deal. Not really the same as a car though I guess.
All because it was a good deal. Not really the same as a car though I guess.
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Why not.
OK, update: the low ball dealer won't tell me what the out the door price would be, just said 'fees'. when I asked what those were (expecting a $ amount) they say 'tax, title, freight, and processing fee'- freight alone is $750 usually on a new car!
so I'm thinking this ain't no real deal.
my local guy's price includes the freight.
always have to remember, compare apples to apples.
so I'm thinking this ain't no real deal.
my local guy's price includes the freight.
always have to remember, compare apples to apples.
Tell the lowball dealer that you need a out the door price, or you're not interested.
Honestly, what kind of moron dealer can't tell you what the out the door price is? Either they're being deceptive, or the salesman is so stupid that he can't run a calculator.
I don't play this game when I buy a vehicle. I'm the one that gives the DEALER a number, and then they get one chance to tell ME if they can do it or not.
Here's something else, the economy really stinks right now. YOU should have the upper hand right now, not the dealer.
Honestly, what kind of moron dealer can't tell you what the out the door price is? Either they're being deceptive, or the salesman is so stupid that he can't run a calculator.
I don't play this game when I buy a vehicle. I'm the one that gives the DEALER a number, and then they get one chance to tell ME if they can do it or not.
Here's something else, the economy really stinks right now. YOU should have the upper hand right now, not the dealer.
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Tell the lowball dealer that you need a out the door price, or you're not interested.
Honestly, what kind of moron dealer can't tell you what the out the door price is? Either they're being deceptive, or the salesman is so stupid that he can't run a calculator.
I don't play this game when I buy a vehicle. I'm the one that gives the DEALER a number, and then they get one chance to tell ME if they can do it or not.
Here's something else, the economy really stinks right now. YOU should have the upper hand right now, not the dealer.
I just got a call (I hate when they call after you've told them to email) from some other dude at the lowball dealer. I told him I want a total price; he did email it to me, and it's good bit higher than what the 1st salesgirl quoted me.
I hate when they play games. they want to get you in and try to dazzle and confuse and get the focus off the price, when to the buyer the price is the ONLY issue.
my local guy has been completely up front and laid back. I like that. low stress is worth ALOT.
Tell the lowball dealer that you need a out the door price, or you're not interested.
Honestly, what kind of moron dealer can't tell you what the out the door price is? Either they're being deceptive, or the salesman is so stupid that he can't run a calculator.
I don't play this game when I buy a vehicle. I'm the one that gives the DEALER a number, and then they get one chance to tell ME if they can do it or not.
Here's something else, the economy really stinks right now. YOU should have the upper hand right now, not the dealer.
I just got a call (I hate when they call after you've told them to email) from some other dude at the lowball dealer. I told him I want a total price; he did email it to me, and it's good bit higher than what the 1st salesgirl quoted me.
I hate when they play games. they want to get you in and try to dazzle and confuse and get the focus off the price, when to the buyer the price is the ONLY issue.
my local guy has been completely up front and laid back. I like that. low stress is worth ALOT.
OK, what car are we talking about here? Is it something unique or rather common? Is this on a "closeout", like a Saturn or a Pontiac.... or something that is still in production? An 09 or a 10?
Have you bargained all that you can with the dealer who is 40 miles away? Have you been told that the price that you've been given is their rock bottom price?
How much apart are the two dealers at this point? $200? $500?
A few more details are needed to plan a strategy.
At this point, assuming that you have what is a "rock bottom" deal from both dealers, that are for equally equipped units including tax and all fees, I would present the deal from the dealer that is 200 miles away, to the dealer that is 40 miles away, and offer to split the difference between the two deals. Assuming a $500 difference between the two deals, you'll pay $250 less to the dealer that is 40 miles away.
You'll still end up with a better deal, and get the car from a dealer who is a lot closer to you... which may come in handy in the future.
Have you bargained all that you can with the dealer who is 40 miles away? Have you been told that the price that you've been given is their rock bottom price?
How much apart are the two dealers at this point? $200? $500?
A few more details are needed to plan a strategy.
At this point, assuming that you have what is a "rock bottom" deal from both dealers, that are for equally equipped units including tax and all fees, I would present the deal from the dealer that is 200 miles away, to the dealer that is 40 miles away, and offer to split the difference between the two deals. Assuming a $500 difference between the two deals, you'll pay $250 less to the dealer that is 40 miles away.
You'll still end up with a better deal, and get the car from a dealer who is a lot closer to you... which may come in handy in the future.
'09 Mazda5 sport manual. turns out the local deal was already better than the 220mi deal. the one farther away was giving me a 'before'price; before freight and dealer prep.
my wife just called and put a dep on the local one, decision has been made.
my wife just called and put a dep on the local one, decision has been made.
JHZR2
Staff member
I'd use it for leverage first, and see how that goes. If no dice, id walk and leave a number in case they reconsider.
After a few days, i'd line up the 220 mile drive. I wouldnt want to do it multiple times, but id do it to close a deal and drive home with the car.
I look at it like this: the IRS says that using a POV costs 55c/mile. IMO, it is a bit less, as some things are sunk costs, but let's use that value. A 440 mile round-trip would cost you roughly $242 based upon the IRS data. So, youll still be coming out ahead.
Much longer than that drive will likely become a major time commitment, and more has to be put in thought-wise. That said, it still isnt a deal-breaking idea. Say you drive 1000 miles, or 2000 miles, perhaps you can align it with a vacation. Youre getting your transportation, going someplace new, and will be building good memories and experiences. Not a bad payback, and in reality, the $1k saved would offset the vacation costs.
TO get the car I wanted, I recently went cross-country! Turned it into an adventure!
After a few days, i'd line up the 220 mile drive. I wouldnt want to do it multiple times, but id do it to close a deal and drive home with the car.
I look at it like this: the IRS says that using a POV costs 55c/mile. IMO, it is a bit less, as some things are sunk costs, but let's use that value. A 440 mile round-trip would cost you roughly $242 based upon the IRS data. So, youll still be coming out ahead.
Much longer than that drive will likely become a major time commitment, and more has to be put in thought-wise. That said, it still isnt a deal-breaking idea. Say you drive 1000 miles, or 2000 miles, perhaps you can align it with a vacation. Youre getting your transportation, going someplace new, and will be building good memories and experiences. Not a bad payback, and in reality, the $1k saved would offset the vacation costs.
TO get the car I wanted, I recently went cross-country! Turned it into an adventure!
we did something similar almost 3 yrs ago, went to Cincinnati OH for the '96 MPV we just got rid of. made it a vacation, went to the zoo.
but that was to get a hard to find older used car (turned out not to be such a great deal, as I spent more than $3K on it in maintenance).
this 220mi dealer was playing games, showed 3 different prices, 2 different people calling me, not being upfront about the bottom line price, etc. I was just really put off by them, would much rather deal w/ the local guy who was upfront and honest.
but that was to get a hard to find older used car (turned out not to be such a great deal, as I spent more than $3K on it in maintenance).
this 220mi dealer was playing games, showed 3 different prices, 2 different people calling me, not being upfront about the bottom line price, etc. I was just really put off by them, would much rather deal w/ the local guy who was upfront and honest.
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