Would this work for DI valve deposit cleaning?

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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen is up for the job too. But there is no problem to fix according to GM.


Would GM admit to a problem? Would any car maker admit to a problem?


the gm dude was angry when I said that...don't think he likes you either
spankme2.gif




I don't dislike you guys....just disagreed with your opinion vs. the facts I had. Its all good.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen is up for the job too. But there is no problem to fix according to GM.


Would GM admit to a problem? Would any car maker admit to a problem?


the gm dude was angry when I said that...don't think he likes you either
spankme2.gif





Oh well.
smile.gif




Yep.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen is up for the job too. But there is no problem to fix according to GM.


Would GM admit to a problem? Would any car maker admit to a problem?


the gm dude was angry when I said that...don't think he likes you either
spankme2.gif




I don't dislike you guys....just disagreed with your opinion vs. the facts I had. Its all good.


I didn't see the reply till later..but now that your here....Sorry for disrespecting.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: PZR2874
I honestly believe tapping the intake manifold on each runner works well.

Then run whatever you want to experiment with as far as chemicals. I'm partial to SeaFoam long term on valves for DI.

I scoped my MS3 at 80K and then again at 100K and I saw improvement from 80K just doing reg SF treatments (every 1K-1500 miles)


How could Yellow Pale oil, lighter fluid, and rubbing alcohol help a DI? I could see it being peppier for a tankful on the IPA, but the cleaning abilities of pale oil and naphtha are weak at best. You spent a small fortune on the stuff, would hope you'd see something.


Over time is the best remedy IMHO.... Last thing you need is a chunk of carbon scoring your piston and then what?

Been doing it for 3 years this way and has never steered me wrong.

BTW.... Buying it in gallon containers will last me 2 years
 
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When we say there are no problems, what does that mean?
That the cars starts and runs? Or that there are no intake deposits ?
There ARE intake valve deposits, to varying degrees. Minor to problematic, over time.

Diesels operate at full throttle and varying fuel delivery.
Gas passenger cars with DI use varying throttle.
Big difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Schmoe
Let me get this straight....you want to drive down the road with an open can of MEK in the cab? The vapor pressure of MEK is really low, that stuff would volatize within the cab and then you'd be breathing it in.....


I usually drive with at least one window partially open anyway. I guess it means no smoking, though, right? Maybe it would be a good idea to chill the MEK before use? Is this stuff really that bad? I tend to use it as my go-to solvent for "get rid of this crud now" type situations. Maybe as a smoker I've become accustomed to dismissing the whole "may cause cancer" thing more than normal people.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
You should just make your own. Pale oil, lighter fluid and rubbing alcohol are readily available.


And how would you mix them ? 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 ?

What are the ratios?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
When we say there are no problems, what does that mean?
That the cars starts and runs? Or that there are no intake deposits ?
There ARE intake valve deposits, to varying degrees. Minor to problematic, over time.

Diesels operate at full throttle and varying fuel delivery.
Gas passenger cars with DI use varying throttle.
Big difference.



Some if not most diesels have an injector that helps combat the backside of the valves... I imagine these are located in the IM ???

Correct me if I'm wrong
 
methinks the Ampco/Marvel Oiler would be a similar approach...and likely "easier" and [censored], these things were thought of long before "DI" was even put into fuel injected vehicles :P
 
I see what you mean but that's the reason for finding a vac source that hits all cylinders (and I'm fairly certain that all cars have this vac line, problem is finding it) haha....

Well, I like the idea of tapping each runner and doing 4,6,8 separate treatments.... Problem I am having is what to use to make sure no leaks happen from the taps.
 
Haven't seen a vacuum source as you describe it since we went to dry manifolds at the start of the FI era.

All cars and trucks but one in our stable use composite manifolds with very few vac connections. The SRT uses a huge aluminum piece with very long runners and only one vac port.

You may be able to get something going by drilling individual holes at each intake valve. But you always feel funny drilling into something that was working just fine before!
 
yes, that's why i like the hot water bottle spray into a hot engine running, adjusting rpm by hand.

i've also added isopropyl alcohol to the hot water, and also shot 2 oz of LC20 mixed w/ Redline SI-1 lol

but i always finish with throttle body cleaner w/ engine off, then drive it
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Haven't seen a vacuum source as you describe it since we went to dry manifolds at the start of the FI era.

All cars and trucks but one in our stable use composite manifolds with very few vac connections. The SRT uses a huge aluminum piece with very long runners and only one vac port.

You may be able to get something going by drilling individual holes at each intake valve. But you always feel funny drilling into something that was working just fine before!


This.

But I'm still stumped on how to get them to seal (stay sealed for the long haul)

My buddy did his through the TB vac hose on his charger a few years ago IIRC
 
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