Any injector timing won't affect the PC goo from getting on the valves.
So don't expect a cure.
So don't expect a cure.
Combating DI Intake Valve Deposits - Ford Focus ST
- Thread starter ajwan
- Start date
Originally Posted By: FoxS
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
Mazdaspeed guys take the IM off and walnut blast/denatured alky/B12/gun cleaning kit to combat ours.
I personally have never done this and 119K later, all I do is SeaFoam and Mazda Zoom cleaner ingesting.
I think it's blown outta proportion personally.
But I do have an OCC and deleted the EGR... Along with running PU 5-30.
I personally have never done this and 119K later, all I do is SeaFoam and Mazda Zoom cleaner ingesting.
I think it's blown outta proportion personally.
But I do have an OCC and deleted the EGR... Along with running PU 5-30.
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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: FoxS
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
It all depends on how baked on the carbon crud is because the routine used by sport and commercial fishing boats is 30 mins at max continuous after every 12 hour period of low power trawling or trolling to clean out the cylinders. I know from my own car that 30 minute drives at 60 mph do not help at all and you need much higher power settings and longer times to have a real effect, so I can understand the Perkins diesel expert that said the best thing an owner of the average van could do for his diesel, was 10 hours at max continuous if the engine had bad carbon deposits from too much time at idle. It also gets rid of any fuel contamination of the oil.
Originally Posted By: FoxS
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
It all depends on how baked on the carbon crud is because the routine used by sport and commercial fishing boats is 30 mins at max continuous after every 12 hour period of low power trawling or trolling to clean out the cylinders. I know from my own car that 30 minute drives at 60 mph do not help at all and you need much higher power settings and longer times to have a real effect, so I can understand the Perkins diesel expert that said the best thing an owner of the average van could do for his diesel, was 10 hours at max continuous if the engine had bad carbon deposits from too much time at idle. It also gets rid of any fuel contamination of the oil.
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Ford has had DI engines in Europe for a while now - are there any serious problems with them in Europe?
Usually once a week, once my engine is up to temperature, I'll run it up to 5k or so pretty hard.
I have a non-DI engine, but have always been under the impression it's good to spin them fast once in a while.
Usually once a week, once my engine is up to temperature, I'll run it up to 5k or so pretty hard.
I have a non-DI engine, but have always been under the impression it's good to spin them fast once in a while.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: FoxS
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
And how much more heat is produced at the same load but higher RPM? Very little.
Originally Posted By: FoxS
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
And how much more heat is produced at the same load but higher RPM? Very little.
Old leaded gas left a lot of sooty deposits in the CCs..
BUT, they were soft and blew out with any sort of Italian tune up.
Modern deposits are way harder, and much less prominent.
Any highway driving helps,but a good in tank cleaner is our best bet.
Intake deposits were washed away by constant fuel from carburetors or injectors.
DI engines reek in this respect.
BUT, they were soft and blew out with any sort of Italian tune up.
Modern deposits are way harder, and much less prominent.
Any highway driving helps,but a good in tank cleaner is our best bet.
Intake deposits were washed away by constant fuel from carburetors or injectors.
DI engines reek in this respect.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
And how much more heat is produced at the same load but higher RPM? Very little.
Actually alot. RPM's = Heat. More cylinder firings in same amount of time. More heat is generated. If you want to test this thery, drive an air cooled bike in top gear at 50 MPH, then drop down a gear or two at same 50 MPH. You have same amount of cooling air going over cylinders, same load, now look at the temp guages and see how much hotter it runs.
(Yes, water cooled will do the same, just using air cooled because you can see it better)
And how much more heat is produced at the same load but higher RPM? Very little.
Actually alot. RPM's = Heat. More cylinder firings in same amount of time. More heat is generated. If you want to test this thery, drive an air cooled bike in top gear at 50 MPH, then drop down a gear or two at same 50 MPH. You have same amount of cooling air going over cylinders, same load, now look at the temp guages and see how much hotter it runs.
(Yes, water cooled will do the same, just using air cooled because you can see it better)
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: FoxS
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
And how much more heat is produced at the same load but higher RPM? Very little.
You might imagine this to be true, but with any car I own it is not. More combustion events equals more heat. Simple.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: FoxS
You don't need to drive 100mph to generate heat.
On the freeway, just drop down a gear or two and / or switch off overdrive.
Absolutely! It's utter nonsense to imagine you need to drive at 100 mph minimum for hours!
You definitely want high load so upper gears are a must, but even just a hard run through the upper ranges at full throttle will dislodge crud. There's a cumulative effect with repetition.
It won't take hours at all.
And how much more heat is produced at the same load but higher RPM? Very little.
You might imagine this to be true, but with any car I own it is not. More combustion events equals more heat. Simple.
i have a vw/audi 2.0tfsi engine which is famous for its buildup. I searched the internet for days and only found the really effective way is manual cleaning (walnut). But I do believe in an Italian Tuneup if the problem is not too bad. There's a guy has the same engine as mine did it with great outcome:
http://www.vwgticlub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5859&start=20
But make sure you do it right. Put in lower gear hit the freeway after fully warmed up (you don't need to speeding). rev up to 4000+ for at least 20min. Also keep your eyes on the temp. Slightly higher temp is normal.
About prevention, I would say use low volatility engine oil!
http://www.vwgticlub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5859&start=20
But make sure you do it right. Put in lower gear hit the freeway after fully warmed up (you don't need to speeding). rev up to 4000+ for at least 20min. Also keep your eyes on the temp. Slightly higher temp is normal.
About prevention, I would say use low volatility engine oil!
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Originally Posted By: vwGLI
i have a vw/audi 2.0tfsi engine which is famous for its buildup. I searched the internet for days and only found the really effective way is manual cleaning (walnut). But I do believe in an Italian Tuneup if the problem is not too bad. There's a guy has the same engine as mine did it with great outcome:
http://www.vwgticlub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5859&start=20
But make sure you do it right. Put in lower gear hit the freeway after fully warmed up (you don't need to speeding). rev up to 4000+ for at least 20min. Also keep your eyes on the temp. Slightly higher temp is normal.
About prevention, I would say use low volatility engine oil!
Thank you for that link. That is the first evidence I have seen of the italian tuneup working on a DI car. I think that with the BG DI cleaning would be a winner. Thanks.
i have a vw/audi 2.0tfsi engine which is famous for its buildup. I searched the internet for days and only found the really effective way is manual cleaning (walnut). But I do believe in an Italian Tuneup if the problem is not too bad. There's a guy has the same engine as mine did it with great outcome:
http://www.vwgticlub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5859&start=20
But make sure you do it right. Put in lower gear hit the freeway after fully warmed up (you don't need to speeding). rev up to 4000+ for at least 20min. Also keep your eyes on the temp. Slightly higher temp is normal.
About prevention, I would say use low volatility engine oil!
Thank you for that link. That is the first evidence I have seen of the italian tuneup working on a DI car. I think that with the BG DI cleaning would be a winner. Thanks.
I don't see how anything in the fuel will work on the intake side of the valves. This is a big issue with the valve stems carboning up. And it isn't just DI engines but any engine that has a dry valve.
A catch can to stop the PCV gases from getting into the intake does wonders.
A catch can to stop the PCV gases from getting into the intake does wonders.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I don't see how anything in the fuel will work on the intake side of the valves. This is a big issue with the valve stems carboning up. And it isn't just DI engines but any engine that has a dry valve.
A catch can to stop the PCV gases from getting into the intake does wonders.
The catch cans don't help either. Many reports on Mini Cooper, GTI, etc. forums where the catch can isn't stopping the deposits.
Walnut blasting, hand cleaning or BG DI Service is about the only options right now for DI deposit cleaning/prevention.
I don't see how anything in the fuel will work on the intake side of the valves. This is a big issue with the valve stems carboning up. And it isn't just DI engines but any engine that has a dry valve.
A catch can to stop the PCV gases from getting into the intake does wonders.
The catch cans don't help either. Many reports on Mini Cooper, GTI, etc. forums where the catch can isn't stopping the deposits.
Walnut blasting, hand cleaning or BG DI Service is about the only options right now for DI deposit cleaning/prevention.
Catch cans will stop the gunk on the intake side. Won't do much about the combustion chamber side.
The Ford EcoBoost motors are DI and they have an internal separator/condenser that dumps the blowby into the valve cover. Now they are experiencing fuel dilution problems with the oil.
Here's a pic of my intake after 20k miles and a catch can. From my 2L turbo. I dump about a 1/2 pint per 5k mile oil change out of it.
I use to have a Ford Taurus SHO with the V8. It had the FI only spraying on one intake. Several motors went when the dry valve stuck and it pulled the head off the valve due to the carbon on the valve stem. The catch can stopped anything like this too. You just have to have the right kind in the right location.
The Ford EcoBoost motors are DI and they have an internal separator/condenser that dumps the blowby into the valve cover. Now they are experiencing fuel dilution problems with the oil.
Here's a pic of my intake after 20k miles and a catch can. From my 2L turbo. I dump about a 1/2 pint per 5k mile oil change out of it.
I use to have a Ford Taurus SHO with the V8. It had the FI only spraying on one intake. Several motors went when the dry valve stuck and it pulled the head off the valve due to the carbon on the valve stem. The catch can stopped anything like this too. You just have to have the right kind in the right location.
Why not just tap a vacuum line and with a small restrictor, let it suck up a glass full of carb cleaner right before an oil change?
SHOZ -
I'm totally in agreement about catch cans.
Of course, the factory can't put something on that doesn't last 50-100k without any maintenance. They can't rely on Mom n Pop to empty a reservoir.
Prop -
Too little, too harsh, and too late.
I'm totally in agreement about catch cans.
Of course, the factory can't put something on that doesn't last 50-100k without any maintenance. They can't rely on Mom n Pop to empty a reservoir.
Prop -
Too little, too harsh, and too late.
Originally Posted By: Propflux01
Why not just tap a vacuum line and with a small restrictor, let it suck up a glass full of carb cleaner right before an oil change?
Hey, you may be on to something! You could make a "DI kit" and probably sell them and make a killing!
Why not just tap a vacuum line and with a small restrictor, let it suck up a glass full of carb cleaner right before an oil change?
Hey, you may be on to something! You could make a "DI kit" and probably sell them and make a killing!
Originally Posted By: Propflux01
Why not just tap a vacuum line and with a small restrictor, let it suck up a glass full of carb cleaner right before an oil change?
The GTI and audi forums have tried it and seafoam. It only removes soft deposits. The hard, baked on deposits don't get touched.
Why not just tap a vacuum line and with a small restrictor, let it suck up a glass full of carb cleaner right before an oil change?
The GTI and audi forums have tried it and seafoam. It only removes soft deposits. The hard, baked on deposits don't get touched.